Blood meal vs. Bone meal for iron

[Zeeth]

I've got 10 seeds of Beccariophoenix sp. windows waiting to sprout, and I started mixing up some soil. The soil is mostly Jungle growth professional growers mix with some added perlite, but I've also got a pot filled with an experimental soil, 2/3 coconut coir peat (that I made myself from the husk of a coconut!), and also perlite and some silica sand. I added in some slow release palm fert into the mix, but I also want to give them some extra iron, so should I add blood meal or bone meal? Thanks for any suggestions

Keith

[sonoranfans]

Hi Keith,

I would use Milorganite, a slow release organic fertilizer with 4% iron. I have used this with pelletized lime to treat my windowpane which is now starting to turn green. Chlorosis can be caused by any one of iron, magnesium deficiencies or soil pH. Our soils tend to be too acid, and also have little mineral content. A little lime adds magnesium and pushes pH towards neutral, and adding milorganite adds the iron. a soil pH that is too acid leads to poor magnesium bioavailability. Here is a link with the pH/bioavailability of various micro/macro nutrients.

http://www.avocadosource.com/tools/FertCalc_files/pH.htm

Tom

[iamjv]

And I thought the lime was only for my margaritas...

But seriously, nice chart! So the darker bands equate to the amount of the particular nutrient that is available in a particular soil type (i.e. thicker band = more easily available), correct???? Thanks! Jv

[quaman58]

Keith,

Tom has good advice on regarding the potential chlorosis of Beccariophoenix. The "windows" seedlings are strange, in that some in a batch will do pretty well, and others will not, no matter what you do. Getting them to a larger (5 gal) size is the challenge with this species in my experience; after that they're pretty dependable growers. But the effort is worth it since they're so amazing looking when well grown. Good luck with them!

Bret

[sonoranfans]

  On 9/12/2010 at 10:55 PM, iamjv said:

And I thought the lime was only for my margaritas...

But seriously, nice chart! So the darker bands equate to the amount of the particular nutrient that is available in a particular soil type (i.e. thicker band = more easily available), correct???? Thanks! Jv

Yup Jv,

As you can see in the chart, the iron band narrows at higher pH(dropping iron bioavailability) and the magnesium narrows at lower pH(dropping magnesium bioavailability). It appears that 6.0-6.5 would be an ideal range. I also understand that other species are sensitive to pH and this nutrient bioavailability, as are the beccariophoenix. Some like bismarckias really dont have a soil pH issue, I have grown them well in a soil pH of 8 in Arizona. Royals or some other dypsis dont seem to have as much sensitivity in soil pH. I first treated with Ferrous sulfate, no result, then with milorganite, not result. Now, 2-3 weeks after adding th elime I see the change in several species including: Beccariophoenix alfredii, windowpane palm, dypsis leptocheilos x decaryi, foxtails, and phoenix rupicolas. I should test soil pH as going to far towards tha alkaline side would cause a drop in Iron bioavailability. I use the pelletized lime, not the fine garden lime as the fine lime will cause a more abrupt change in pH.

Tom

Edited September 13, 2010 by sonoranfans

[iamjv]

Thanks Tom for the information.... my alkaline soils cause issues with iron up take. You see it in butias and queens after a while. Jv

[sonoranfans]

  On 9/14/2010 at 1:12 AM, iamjv said:

Thanks Tom for the information.... my alkaline soils cause issues with iron up take. You see it in butias and queens after a while. Jv

I had highly alkaline clay when I lived in AZ, the solution is to add sulfur pellets 2x a year for 4-5 years. You could also add aluminum sulfate, but that changes pH so rapidly I would worry about a burn, the sulfur pH change is much slower. My queens became very dark green after that treatment. I would add 2 handfulls per tree 2x a year and mix it in to the top layer of soil around the root zone 2' from the trunk. Epsom salt can give a temporary bump down in pH for an immediate effect, but this is not a good way to change soil pH long term as mg levels can go too high(this is bad also). I used to use epson salt once a year in spring around the root zone(1 handfull/tree).

Tom

Edited September 14, 2010 by sonoranfans

[AggiePalms]

Ah, great chart, Sonoranfans! I haven't seen that since geochemistry class. Yes, for iron go with Millorganite, fertilizer plus iron, slow release organic. Of course, you do have to watch pH to make the iron soluble, but altering soil pH should be no problem...and I suspect your coir based soil will be a slightly acidic mix anyway. If necessary, of course, add a little lime.