Jump to content
  • WELCOME GUEST

    It looks as if you are viewing PalmTalk as an unregistered Guest.

    Please consider registering so as to take better advantage of our vast knowledge base and friendly community.  By registering you will gain access to many features - among them are our powerful Search feature, the ability to Private Message other Users, and be able to post and/or answer questions from all over the world. It is completely free, no “catches,” and you will have complete control over how you wish to use this site.

    PalmTalk is sponsored by the International Palm Society. - an organization dedicated to learning everything about and enjoying palm trees (and their companion plants) while conserving endangered palm species and habitat worldwide. Please take the time to know us all better and register.

    guest Renda04.jpg

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all,

I've got two palms up high on my hillside that just don't like being there. I think in both cases that they just want more water. I've tried deep watering regularly, but they're still not happy. They've been there for at least 4 years. One is a Ravenea rivulais, the other is an Acanthophoenix crinita. Each is about 4 foot overall. Obviously, they're both rooted in. And I can't risk losing the Acanthophoenix especially in the move. A recent thread made it seem that root pruning makes moving most palms a slam-dunk. So, what's the strategy to do it? Is it something done over the course of days, or weeks, or months? Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Bret

Bret

 

Coastal canyon area of San Diego

 

"In the shadow of the Cross"

Posted

Hello Bret - I do not know if others prune roots like I do; My royals are prolific root spreaders and I can't dig a hole a foot across even 25 feet away from them without hitting a root. In addition, one of them has two feet of exposed roots. At the suggestion of a local gardener, I had the surface roots of one of them cut from a distance of 4 feet from the base. This has been done three times in six years so far and to be honest, while the palms show no sign of any trauma, I have not gained anything by it either because new roots are generated within a few months. Or perhaps the palms are in good health because the roots are being pruned.

____________________

Kumar

Bombay, India

Sea Level | Average Temperature Range 23 - 32 deg. celsius | Annual rainfall 3400.0 mm

Calcutta, India

Sea Level | Average Temperature Range 19 - 33 deg. celsius | Annual rainfall 1600.0 mm

Posted

Hey all,

I've got two palms up high on my hillside that just don't like being there. I think in both cases that they just want more water. I've tried deep watering regularly, but they're still not happy. They've been there for at least 4 years. One is a Ravenea rivulais, the other is an Acanthophoenix crinita. Each is about 4 foot overall. Obviously, they're both rooted in. And I can't risk losing the Acanthophoenix especially in the move. A recent thread made it seem that root pruning makes moving most palms a slam-dunk. So, what's the strategy to do it? Is it something done over the course of days, or weeks, or months? Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Bret

Bret,

Root puning takes a matter of weeks at least and more likely months. What everyou decide to so, just be sure that you will have the horsepower to move the trees once you make the move. The rootball is extremely heavy and even small palms might weigh over 300 pounds. There are others who do this on a regular (and professional) basis. They will propably give much better information on the step by step process.

Good luck!

John Case

Brentwood CA

Owner and curator of Hana Keu Garden

USDA Zone 9b more or less, Sunset Zone 14 in winter 9 in summer

"Its always exciting the first time you save the world. Its a real thrill!"

Posted

Look for threads by Ken Johnson on this.

But the long and short of it is that you are cutting some roots, backfilling with loose fill untill you can dig and see new root growth in the same area. Then repeat the same step in a different area! :D

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

When I moved a bunch of palms from Maui to the Big Island, I just dug down about 8" with a shovel about 12" from the stem and went all the way around the palm. Then I went a bit deeper 3-4 wks later and then a few wks after that I was able to dig them up all the way. They were larger (most of them) then 4' high, so if you stay around 12" from the stem (radius), yours should be fine. Keep the watering up while you are doing this, as well as after you move them. There is probably a better way, but I don't think that I lost any palms doing it this way and it was easy to do.

Posted

I will be glad to help. Post some pix so we can see the soil conditions. The first dig is an experimental move that gives you a picture of the future work you will do. Kind of an ultrasound picture of whats uner the trunk. This should be 25% of the finished circle and deep enough to see "under the palm". I like to leave the ditch open if there is no erosion so I can see both the cut roots (checking for rot) and the new roots starting to come out.

The ravinea is going to be easier than the crinita. Take 2 to 3 months for it. Also I would fertilize if they look bad. Unhealthy palms are much harder to transplant.

I DIG PALMS

Call me anytime to chat about transplanting palms.

305-345-8918

https://www.facebook...KenJohnsonPalms

Posted

Thanks for all the replies so far; it gives me a better idea of what is involved. Per Ken's suggestion, I'll post some pics tonight. These are not huge plants; perhaps 4" at the bases. They should both be 2-3 times this size given their age. Ken, you mentioned that the Acanthophoenix would be more difficult; I take it you've had some experience with these?

Thanks again,

Bret

Bret

 

Coastal canyon area of San Diego

 

"In the shadow of the Cross"

Posted

Here's a couple pictures:

Ravenea; 2 gallon pot for scale

post-55-12838236135869_thumb.jpg

In both cases I put large rocks around the downhill faces & then backfilled;

post-55-12838237426105_thumb.jpg

Acanthophoenix;

post-55-12838238042172_thumb.jpg

post-55-12838238502239_thumb.jpg

Thanks again for all the suggestions & advice.

Bret

Bret

 

Coastal canyon area of San Diego

 

"In the shadow of the Cross"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...