Fertilizer

[Palm Guy]

Hi all,

Just bought a can of Osmocote slow release fertilizer 15-9-12. Anyone else use it with any success?

Details are here:http://osmocoteplus.com/_docs/labels/standard/903226.pdf

[BlufftonSC]

Hi all,

Just bought a can of Osmocote slow release fertilizer 15-9-12. Anyone else use it with any success?

Details are here:http://osmocoteplus.com/_docs/labels/standard/903226.pdf

I believe they have one specifically for Palms. Did you see that one?

[Kris]

I believe they have 'one specifically for Palms'. Did you see that one?

Can you gives us the link or path to that page...i wan to see that product info.

Thanks & love,

kris

[Palm Guy]

Hi all,

Just bought a can of Osmocote slow release fertilizer 15-9-12. Anyone else use it with any success?

Details are here:http://osmocoteplus.com/_docs/labels/standard/903226.pdf

I believe they have one specifically for Palms. Did you see that one?

Hi,

This is the only osmocote product with micros available to me on the island (without having to order online). I did go searching after you had mentioned that and found this:http://osmocoteplus.com/_docs/labels/micromax/900496.pdf

The NPK ratio is a good one being 3-1-3 however, I notice lack of some critical micronutrients in the Palm mix like Boron and Manganese.

Osmocote plus 15-9-12 contains those micros. I think a 3-1-2 NPK or close enough ratio should be good for potted palms as it is rare for potted palms to exibhibit pottassium deficiency in pots (so last number in the ratio (potassium) doesnt have to balance out the first (nitrogen)). The Osmocote plus is a little low on the Magnesium however, magnesium defiicency does not really kill palms.

I think it may work out fine. What you guys think?

[Nigel]

What is the experience of people in hot climate with osmacote. Does it really release over 6 months or does it dump the lot more quickly in hot weather ??

[Palm Guy]

What is the experience of people in hot climate with osmacote. Does it really release over 6 months or does it dump the lot more quickly in hot weather ??

Osmocote works fine for me. I've tried the 18-6-12 with some good results. It doesnt burn roots however, it doesnt contains any micros so I had to foliar spray 1 a month with a seaweed foliar spray). It don't think it lasts as long as the label says in my climate so this 6 month product is more or less a 4 month summer product and a 6 month release in winter. Id probably lay some of this down late Jan -late Feb then reapply in Jun Jul.

[Tassie_Troy1971]

"does it dump the lot more quickly in hot weather " this is my belief not that i am knocking the product .

I am totally organic and use liquid seaweed ,and fishmeal, blood & bone , cow manure and my palms have definately improved since i did this as it helps build up useful soil bacteria . I quote Darold Petty's

" My original soil was almost pure sand, just 1.6 km inland from the beach. For 25 years I used synthetic salt fertilizers exclusively because I didn't want to raise the soil elevation relative to the masonry walkways. Healthy soils are a complex world of microfauna including the bad nematodes that attack plant roots. They are normally held in check at a benign level by good nematodes and fungi, both of which are predators to the bad nematodes (BN). The BN population can explode and damage plants in conditions of "sandy soils ,with heavy irrigation, and an exclusive reliance on synthetic salt fertilizers". This is the precise description of my garden for the first 25 years.

The salt fertilizers damage the soil microfauna because of the extreme difference in the osmotic potential relative to the soil microfauna. The primary feeding of the garden should be regular applications or organic materials, manures, compost, and mulch. This supports the soil microfauna that supports the plants. It's easier, conserves moisture, and cannot overdose your plants, as with synthetics.

Obviously, this is a general recommendation. Clay soils have better nutrient levels than sand. My position now is to use organics as the primary feeding, with supplements of synthetics to correct specific deficiencies. I also recommend synthetics for extremely dense plantings. (I'm in danger of becoming the Ralph Velez of the north!) "

Troy

[Palm Guy]

"does it dump the lot more quickly in hot weather " this is my belief not that i am knocking the product .

I am totally organic and use liquid seaweed ,and fishmeal, blood & bone , cow manure and my palms have definately improved since i did this as it helps build up useful soil bacteria . I quote Darold Petty's

" My original soil was almost pure sand, just 1.6 km inland from the beach. For 25 years I used synthetic salt fertilizers exclusively because I didn't want to raise the soil elevation relative to the masonry walkways. Healthy soils are a complex world of microfauna including the bad nematodes that attack plant roots. They are normally held in check at a benign level by good nematodes and fungi, both of which are predators to the bad nematodes (BN). The BN population can explode and damage plants in conditions of "sandy soils ,with heavy irrigation, and an exclusive reliance on synthetic salt fertilizers". This is the precise description of my garden for the first 25 years.

The salt fertilizers damage the soil microfauna because of the extreme difference in the osmotic potential relative to the soil microfauna. The primary feeding of the garden should be regular applications or organic materials, manures, compost, and mulch. This supports the soil microfauna that supports the plants. It's easier, conserves moisture, and cannot overdose your plants, as with synthetics.

Obviously, this is a general recommendation. Clay soils have better nutrient levels than sand. My position now is to use organics as the primary feeding, with supplements of synthetics to correct specific deficiencies. I also recommend synthetics for extremely dense plantings. (I'm in danger of becoming the Ralph Velez of the north!) "

Troy

Troy I'm also an advocate of organics for in- ground palms however, for potted specimens, I prefer synthetics. I just need to know what I'm puttin in my pots as growing anything in pots can be a challenge since it is already an unnatural state for plants. In my limited experience, organics in synthetic soil (potting soil) rarely work for me. Maybe I'm not using them correctly but i have not had much luck.

I do use kelp meal, blood meal, and other organics like coffee grounds in real soil since it naturally contains the necessary organisms to break down organics. Organic ferts applied as foliar sprays are excellent at correcting micronutrient problems though!

One organic fert that I do like for palms and is available for me is:http://www.espoma.com/p_consumer/pdf/produ...es/Esp_Palm.pdf However it doesnt contain iron, manganese or boron all critical micros needed especially in my type of sandy soil.

Thanks and please let me know if you use organics in pots?

[Tyrone]

Michael I use Osmocote "tropical" (16, 2.2, 14.1) 5,6 month plus about 20% "Micromax" to give me the trace element portion. Micromax has everything in it. I think Osmocote "tropical" has a 25C kick in point, whereas standard Osmocote's start releasing at around 21C, which means that here in my climate they'd be sort of feeding through winter, and in my hothouse they'd be really still fertilising. I don't want much fert in winter.

I studied the Osmocote products before I decided on the one for me. There are 3 generations of Osmocote the first going back to the 60's. The early ones tended to dump especially in hot climates ( I think that's where Osmocote got it's bad rep). The latest generation (the exact range) have varying kick in rates. ie fast kick in then slower release, slower kick in then fast release, or just a linear release. The exact range tends to have all the trace elements in it too, but they don't make a "tropical" version so I didn't buy it. Osmocote tropical is a second generation product and so far is giving me outstanding results. All my pots are just greening right up and I haven't had any dumping problems at all even though some of my growing areas regularly get to 45C. I've even used it on my Tahina's and they love it.

The coating around each prill was described to me like sunscreen. Each prill regardless of monthly rate contains the same amount of fert, but the 3 month version has less of a coating, whereas the 18 month prill has lots more coating. If you were worried about "dumping" you'd use an 18 month instead of a 3 month release product, BUT, you'd have to put a lot more on to ensure the plant gets fed enough at the required rate. Also the higher the temp, the less of a monthly rating it has. So you can see why using a 3 monthly 1st generation product in somewhere like Darwin can turn disastrous especially if it was applied a bit too much to begin with.

I used to use organics in my pots, but it broke my soil down so fast and things started dying. A pot isn't a natural environment and neither is potting mix. Some people do well using dynamic lifter as a fert in pots. If so, they must use an extremely open mix, to make it drain for any length of time. Otherwise they'd be repotting every 6 months. Seaweed and fish emulsions are OK for pots though, but they don't have the serious NPK kick that synthetics have. In the ground however, pile all the organics you can afford in.

Hope this helps.

Best regards

Tyrone

[Tyrone]

Michael I just took a look at that Osmocote plus product. It looks alright. Give it a go and tell us what you think

Best regards

Tyrone

[Tala]

I use Osmocote (the palm/micros product only) exclusively on all my container stock here. For my climate it is the best palm fertilizer made bar none. I have overdosed on many occasions and not once has it ever burned any palm. What I like about it over other polymer coated products is that all of it releases; with Nutricote/others not all of the granules release. To me thats a waste I cannot afford, esp. in these times. I often find some remaining in mix undissolved, with Osmocote it all dissolves eventually - I get my money's worth.

[Palm Guy]

Michael I use Osmocote "tropical" (16, 2.2, 14.1) 5,6 month plus about 20% "Micromax" to give me the trace element portion. Micromax has everything in it. I think Osmocote "tropical" has a 25C kick in point, whereas standard Osmocote's start releasing at around 21C, which means that here in my climate they'd be sort of feeding through winter, and in my hothouse they'd be really still fertilising. I don't want much fert in winter.

I studied the Osmocote products before I decided on the one for me. There are 3 generations of Osmocote the first going back to the 60's. The early ones tended to dump especially in hot climates ( I think that's where Osmocote got it's bad rep). The latest generation (the exact range) have varying kick in rates. ie fast kick in then slower release, slower kick in then fast release, or just a linear release. The exact range tends to have all the trace elements in it too, but they don't make a "tropical" version so I didn't buy it. Osmocote tropical is a second generation product and so far is giving me outstanding results. All my pots are just greening right up and I haven't had any dumping problems at all even though some of my growing areas regularly get to 45C. I've even used it on my Tahina's and they love it.

The coating around each prill was described to me like sunscreen. Each prill regardless of monthly rate contains the same amount of fert, but the 3 month version has less of a coating, whereas the 18 month prill has lots more coating. If you were worried about "dumping" you'd use an 18 month instead of a 3 month release product, BUT, you'd have to put a lot more on to ensure the plant gets fed enough at the required rate. Also the higher the temp, the less of a monthly rating it has. So you can see why using a 3 monthly 1st generation product in somewhere like Darwin can turn disastrous especially if it was applied a bit too much to begin with.

I used to use organics in my pots, but it broke my soil down so fast and things started dying. A pot isn't a natural environment and neither is potting mix. Some people do well using dynamic lifter as a fert in pots. If so, they must use an extremely open mix, to make it drain for any length of time. Otherwise they'd be repotting every 6 months. Seaweed and fish emulsions are OK for pots though, but they don't have the serious NPK kick that synthetics have. In the ground however, pile all the organics you can afford in.

Hope this helps.

Best regards

Tyrone

Hey Tyrone, you mentioned some great points and I see great minds think alike!

This Osmocoteplus actually begins to release in the 60-70 range unfortunately. The good thing is that its generally ok for palms to receive some micros during the winter but the nitrogen would probably spur unwanted weak growth. My palms are in such bad shape that they'd probably take anything I give them right about now! I will try it out and let you know. I will also try a few bags of Sure Gro this season. I have good faith in their products, just a bit pricey to ship them in each year so I'll see if I can find a replacement fert with all the works.

http://suregro.net/landscape.html

Tahinas are one of the only palms that received some fert last summer. They did respond quite nicely to osmocote 18-6-12 3 month with added seaweed foliar fert! I've only lost one of ten mainly because most of them are in a mix containing garden soil. They do like limestone based soils and woudl probably enjoy the 60 ft + of sandy soil you got there.

Thanks,

Mike

[gcyao]

Mike,

I also use Osmocote Plus 15-9-12 with supplemental feedings of calcium and magnesium, plus foliars (Peters).

I find, though, that Osmocote can produce salt build-up, as seen in white rings above the surface of the potting mix (sand and cocopeat) and around bottom holes. Nutricote is said not to do that, but it is so much more expensive.

[edbrown_III]

Mike,

I also use Osmocote Plus 15-9-12 with supplemental feedings of calcium and magnesium, plus foliars (Peters).

I find, though, that Osmocote can produce salt build-up, as seen in white rings above the surface of the potting mix (sand and cocopeat) and around bottom holes. Nutricote is said not to do that, but it is so much more expensive.

George

this is Ed Brown a voice out of the past --- we went on the trip with you and Aurora in Brasil a few years back--- I am hoping to come to Philippines this year and start planting palms . How available are these and other fertilizers in the Philippines --- I usually use nursery formulations here in Florida for my out door palms as they are about 1/2 the price--- are there simular local formulations with minors there?

Best regards

Edwin

[Keith N Tampa (ex SoJax)]

Hello, I work for Scotts the maker of Osmocote Plus. First let me say that the Osmocote product offering in the USA, Canada, and Latin America is different than that offered in much of the rest of the world. You can see the US based product line at www.osmocoteisbest.com whereas the formulations available in the rest of the world can be viewed at http://www.scottprofessional.com/en/osmocote-exact.html. Osmocote actually begins releasing at temperatures in the 30's and 40's (f) but only very slowly. As temperatures rise, release rate increases. For the record, Nutricote is similar, but not identical: it releases more slowly at those very low temps and it takes warmer temps (say 55F) before it releases at a rate that'll feed many plant species. This property can be good or bad depending on your situation. Our bags (US) tell you how long it'll last at 60, 70, 80, and 90F and it doesn't dump unless temps in the pot get up around 150F at which point, all Controlled Release Fertilizers fail miserably. One thing that isn't explained well on the bags is the effect rate has on perceived longevity (this is the same with all Controlled Release Fertilizers). Let me use an example to explain: Let me assert that a Majesty palm is a heavy feeder whereas Chamaedoreas are light feeders. If you used a high rate on the Majesty, it might remain green close to the longevity claimed on the bag depending on the soiless media properties, leaching, irrigation water quality, etc. However, if you used the high rate on the Chamaedorea, it'd probably die so you'd need to use a lower rate and it should remain well fed for close to the longevity on the bag. If you used a low rate on the Majesty, it'd probably look hungry much sooner than the bag claimed longevity. In containers, Osmocote Plus is an excellent palm fertilizer (as is Nutricote Total manufactured by Chisso-Asahi of Japan). I'd go so far as to say Osmocote Plus and Nutricote Total are the best CRF products for containerized palms. The Potassium deficiency that you see in the soil isn't much of a problem in soiless media in pots. However, you still should supplement Magnesium, and possibly Calcium depending on whether the irrigation water contains them. I have been able to meet the fertilizer requirement of Phoenix roebelenii in Homestead FL for 13 months using the 12-14 month fertilizer. However, we still had to supplement Mg because the water there doesn't have much. Pygmy dates are also heavy feeders, but not as heavy as Majesty palms. Now regarding the release differences vs Nutricote: Both products will work quite well for containerized palms. Both release nutrients from inside a coated fertilizer granule and if the plants don't use the nutrients, or they are not washed away with rainfall or irrigation, salts will build up on the container. Also, salts in the irrigation water can cause that buildup regardless of fertilizer choice. Clearly I prefer Osmocote (since thats how I make my living), but both are excellent, top of the line controlled release fertilizers.

Now regarding the organics: I believe that building your soil flora and fauna will make for healither palms so I encourage the use of fertilizer products that do that. However, plants can't tell an organic molecule of Nitrogen from an inorganic form so they don't really care. This isn't to say that you shouldn't use natural sources of nutrients like compost, manure, organic mulches, etc to improve soil, but to get the best growth, you might consider a modest balance of both. One of my pet peeves about using the word "Organic" when refering to fertilizers is that few people recoginze that organic chemistry deals with molecules that contain Carbon and "Organic" fertilizer is a category with a fuzzy definition that isn't based on science at all. Often I see recommendations for "Orgainc" products that don't contain Carbon at all. Another thing people don't understand is the carbon footprint of "Organic". Shipping "Organic" products cross-country or around the world makes no sense because their nutrient value, compared to conventional fertilizers, is a mere fraction (usually less than 10%). Thus it takes 10X as much fuel to transport "Organic" fertilizers vs concentrated conventional fertilizers. Don't take this as some political statement against using LOCAL sources of "Organic" fertilizers because that's not my intention. Just use logic.

Also, in the soil (ie. mother Earth), it's important to have a soil test run to determine what you need to use as a fertilizer. In Hawaii or Costa Rica, the ferilizer choice will absolutely be different than in FL, or Bermuda because the acidic, volcanic soils are nothing like the calcarious, sometimes sandy soils of FL, and Bermuda. Thus, you cannot make a blanket statement about how best to feed palms in the ground.

Hope this helps!

[ariscott]

I use Multicote, an Israeli product. Heaps cheaper than Osmocote and much better for tropical climate, IMO. I have seen good results on trees and palms. I am not sure whether you can get it where you live... but I would recommend you to try it if you can find it. It comes in 25kg bags and it last me ages... for my 5 acres.

But of course, I use mainly organics for most of my tender palms, like calyptrocalyx, pinanga, iguanura, licuala, etc. I only use multicote for royals, bigger and more robust dypsis, bismarkia, sabal, corypha, etc, etc... you know what I mean.

And Keith's post is a great one... Building up your soil is the best way... mulching is the best way to do that...

Regards, Ari

Edited January 25, 2010 by ariscott

[Tyrone]

Keith, interesting info from someone close to the product. My Osmocote tropical 25kg bag gave me the estimate release rate at different temps. I'm thinking Australia gets the same products as the US then. The bag of Micromax is definitely a US product. Expensive but it works really well.

150F is the total dump point then. I hope no one subjects there plants to those sort of temps. It's interesting to note that point in the light of many a garden centre who has bags of potting mix stacked in the summer sun with added Osmocote in the mix. They must reach 150F in the sun.

Best regards

Tyrone

[BS Man about Palms]

Keith, interesting info from someone close to the product. My Osmocote tropical 25kg bag gave me the estimate release rate at different temps. I'm thinking Australia gets the same products as the US then. The bag of Micromax is definitely a US product. Expensive but it works really well.

150F is the total dump point then. I hope no one subjects there plants to those sort of temps. It's interesting to note that point in the light of many a garden centre who has bags of potting mix stacked in the summer sun with added Osmocote in the mix. They must reach 150F in the sun.

Best regards

Tyrone

Keith, I knew someone that said they could determine the life left in their Osmocote type product by if they could squeeze/squoosh the balls versus firm. Any truth to that. Sounded like a bit of hulabaloo to me.

Bill

[Keith N Tampa (ex SoJax)]

Ari, Sometimes Multicote is cheaper...but theres a reason. Now if you are fertilizing plants in the ground, it'll be just fine. In pots, we to scientifically evaluate all kinds of CRF (controlled release fertilizer) and we find that Multicote is OK, but many other products outperform it. However, if you are having good luck, then keep on using it! We have a saying here in the US "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Tyrone, the Australian product comes from Heerlen Netherlands. I'm positive of that. I just wasn't sure if their bags had multiple longevities based on temperatures. I just learned from you that they do! Yes, Micromax comes from the US. The cost per bag is pretty high, but the amount you put in a cubic meter of soil is quite low making the cost per pot quite competitive. Here in the US we often find competitve products selling at 1/2 the price but the recommendations are that you put in 2.25X as much material making the cost per pot quite a bit higher than Micromax.

Bill,I'm a bit of a skeptic of your friend's claim. Now if he said he could tell whether the soluble fertilizer core had begun to dissolve, or if it was nearly gone, then I'd go along with that. But to claim he could tell how much was left, well, that's an art I'd have to see to believe. I should say, however, that some growers use so much of the stuff that they might be able to convince me they can do it. One in my role would be wise to respect their great practical experience.

[ariscott]

Ari, Sometimes Multicote is cheaper...but theres a reason. Now if you are fertilizing plants in the ground, it'll be just fine. In pots, we to scientifically evaluate all kinds of CRF (controlled release fertilizer) and we find that Multicote is OK, but many other products outperform it. However, if you are having good luck, then keep on using it! We have a saying here in the US "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Keith,

I use Osmocote for years, before changing to Multicote. And I have to say... it is only better for 'my' tropical conditions. We have over 30deg days on most days here in Darwin. I can actually see the difference using Multicote. And not just me, a few gardening friends found the same results. But, as I said... I use mainly organics...

Regards, Ari

[Really full garden]

Ari, Sometimes Multicote is cheaper...but theres a reason. Now if you are fertilizing plants in the ground, it'll be just fine. In pots, we to scientifically evaluate all kinds of CRF (controlled release fertilizer) and we find that Multicote is OK, but many other products outperform it. However, if you are having good luck, then keep on using it! We have a saying here in the US "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Keith,

I use Osmocote for years, before changing to Multicote. And I have to say... it is only better for 'my' tropical conditions. We have over 30deg days on most days here in Darwin. I can actually see the difference using Multicote. And not just me, a few gardening friends found the same results. But, as I said... I use mainly organics...

Regards, Ari

Ari, I use Multicote as well and have no complaints.Osmocote is about 3x more expensive.We also do not have the variety of formulas that are available in the US.

[Mike Evans]

I am surprised no one has mentioned Suncote by Osmocote. This type of Osmocote is suppose to be better suited to hot wet climates, so it does not dump the fert, fast. I have always been an avid Nutricote user from Florikan in Florida. Now these money hungry bastards will only sell a 2000 lb minimum. They pretty much say the h... with the little guy, not to mention they treat you like dirt. Well now I say screw you. Hope they go bankrupt. I have switched to Scotts Suncote 16-9-12 w/ micros. It is 8 - 9 month release @ 70 degrees F. May not be the best for a 3-1-3 ratio, but I am willing to give it a good try. Hopefully they come out w/ something better in the future. It is a lot cheaper & the distributors are better to work with (Pro Source One). I have just switched, & would be interested in anyone's input from experience. Go Scotts!

[Tyrone]

Ari, Sometimes Multicote is cheaper...but theres a reason. Now if you are fertilizing plants in the ground, it'll be just fine. In pots, we to scientifically evaluate all kinds of CRF (controlled release fertilizer) and we find that Multicote is OK, but many other products outperform it. However, if you are having good luck, then keep on using it! We have a saying here in the US "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Tyrone, the Australian product comes from Heerlen Netherlands. I'm positive of that. I just wasn't sure if their bags had multiple longevities based on temperatures. I just learned from you that they do! Yes, Micromax comes from the US. The cost per bag is pretty high, but the amount you put in a cubic meter of soil is quite low making the cost per pot quite competitive. Here in the US we often find competitve products selling at 1/2 the price but the recommendations are that you put in 2.25X as much material making the cost per pot quite a bit higher than Micromax.

Bill,I'm a bit of a skeptic of your friend's claim. Now if he said he could tell whether the soluble fertilizer core had begun to dissolve, or if it was nearly gone, then I'd go along with that. But to claim he could tell how much was left, well, that's an art I'd have to see to believe. I should say, however, that some growers use so much of the stuff that they might be able to convince me they can do it. One in my role would be wise to respect their great practical experience.

Keith, I went out and looked at my bag and you're totally right. The product is from the Netherlands, but there is no temp vs longevity info on the bag. I must have dreamt up that bit. I think I saw it on the US website.

Best regards

Tyrone

[Jeff zone 8 N.C.]

Keith, I was hoping you would chime in on this subject. I have used Osmocote for years with great success. I use it on all my different plants, but use other brands too to fine tune paticular plant needs. For palms the Osmocote goes on first, in spring, short of the amount called for by label directions, then some weeks later, when it is warmer, I apply something like Dynamite 18-6-12 at a low rate and then later just a little more Osmocote. I have also recently used Carl Pool 12-4-12 Palm Food as the follow up fertilizer, instead of Dynamite. Can you comment on the Carl Pool?

[merrill]

Gentlemen:

The best nurserymen I know consider Florikan the best group of fertilizers. I've had excellent results w/ them.

merrill

[Keith N Tampa (ex SoJax)]

Couple of things:

1) Merrill, Florikan and Nutricote have generally been synonymous in FL. However, Florikan's changed their business model and is now coating their own product and substituting it for Nutricote. Don't be fooled...it's not even close to Nutricote from Chisso-Asahi. You can still get Nutricote from Florikan, but as Mike mentioned, availability ain't what it used to be....

2)Mike, Suncote is a FL registered hybrid fertilizer that contains both Scott's European technology and it's US technology. Outside of FL (in the Americas) it's sold as Osmocote Plus Hi-Start. Same thing, different bag. Keep us informed. I've had tremendous luck with it competing favorably with Nutricote Total in FL. In fact, in research we've been conducting in FL and other states, it's beat Nutricote Total several times. The trials are in commercial nurseries administered by University or private researchers and the plants are being graded by commercial nurseries. Scotts isn't involved in the grading in any way. Sometimes they beat us, too but it's truly a neck and neck race these days. It hasn't always been that way.

3) Jeff, though you could use a tiny bit of the Carl Poole to supplement your containrized palm fert needs, it's generally better suited for plants in the ground with the Controlled Release Fertilizers being better for pots. If i were you, I'd move to Osmocote Plus 5-6 month or 8-9 month so you get the micronutrients along with the N-P-K. Right now you are getting those from the Dynamite which is Nutricote Total (I think). Dynamite is super expensive compared to a 50# bag of Osmocote Plus. If you seek the Osmocote, look for the "Northern" or "Standard" product release pattern though the Hi-Start would work too. Northern and Standard are the same thing but we're changing the branding right now and you might find it sold under either name. If you get up to Hendersonville, NC from time to time, you get get it from Southern Ag.

4) Tyrone, thanks for the update. I really didn't know if they had multiple release periods on the European manufactured product or not.

5) Scott and Ari, Multicote doesn't have a stable distribution network in the US. It's not much of a player here and the last stuff they trialed here flopped. I think your situation in Australia is different.

[kahili]

I also use Multicote, and get great results with it. It has all the micros, and while I have never done any EC tests, I never see any nutritional deficiencies. I do add some magnesium in the spring, but I am not even sure that I need to. I think here where there is clay, that most plants do do well in the soil, its the container palms/plants that show how well it performs.

[gcyao]

Mike,

I also use Osmocote Plus 15-9-12 with supplemental feedings of calcium and magnesium, plus foliars (Peters).

I find, though, that Osmocote can produce salt build-up, as seen in white rings above the surface of the potting mix (sand and cocopeat) and around bottom holes. Nutricote is said not to do that, but it is so much more expensive.

George

this is Ed Brown a voice out of the past --- we went on the trip with you and Aurora in Brasil a few years back--- I am hoping to come to Philippines this year and start planting palms . How available are these and other fertilizers in the Philippines --- I usually use nursery formulations here in Florida for my out door palms as they are about 1/2 the price--- are there simular local formulations with minors there?

Best regards

Edwin

Hi Ed,

I like that: "voice out of the past". I've been waiting a long time for you to visit. I hope you push thru this time.

We do have many kinds of commercial fertilizer here, imported brands and local. The varieties of imported ones, however, are limited. For example, Nutricote has only the standard 100 days formulation with micronutrients. I often read here about the 360 days formulation with envy. Osmocote, on the other hand, has more varieties but still not as many as I read here. Peters Professional foliars come in only 3 formulations. There is a myriad of local brands, but I am not yet confident of their reliability, so I avoid them. And sadly, there is as yet no palm specials.

I hope this answer your question.