Jump to content
  • WELCOME GUEST

    It looks as if you are viewing PalmTalk as an unregistered Guest.

    Please consider registering so as to take better advantage of our vast knowledge base and friendly community.  By registering you will gain access to many features - among them are our powerful Search feature, the ability to Private Message other Users, and be able to post and/or answer questions from all over the world. It is completely free, no “catches,” and you will have complete control over how you wish to use this site.

    PalmTalk is sponsored by the International Palm Society. - an organization dedicated to learning everything about and enjoying palm trees (and their companion plants) while conserving endangered palm species and habitat worldwide. Please take the time to know us all better and register.

    guest Renda04.jpg

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am thankful for my SF micro-climate. It affords me to grow Ceroxylons, Howeas, Rholpalostyils, Hedys and a few other exotics palms. So I try my marginal palms indoors. Currently in doors I have an orange Areca vestiaria doing great (Pic to Follow), a super slow Bizzie, a ugly Malayan Dwarf, and a Chambeyronia that I just moved outside (Cross your fingers for me, its tough one).

What are you indoor palm recommendations/experiences?

thanks

Dan

Dan

Foggy San Francisco

Average Monthly Hi 60.2 F

Average Monthly Lo 49.9 F

Avearge Monthy 55.2F

Average Summer Hi 61.8F

Average Winter Lo 45.8

Posted

Hi Dan

Most Chamaedoreas do well, especially elegans, atrovirens, and seifrizii.

Jason of Western Australia or Col Wilson of New South Wales may know the better ones for indoors. I've seen a Dypsis lutescens go okay too. I actually tried Areca triandra and a Reinhardtia simplex in my inner city building office area but both succumbed to neglect very fast.

Happy Gardening

Cheers,

Wal

Queensland, Australia.

Posted

I've seen alot of Adonidia's do great indoors.

Michael Ferreira

Bermuda-Humid(77% ave), Subtropical Zone 11, no frost

Warm Season: (May-November): Max/Min 81F/73F

Cool Season: (Dec-Apr): Max/Min 70F/62F

Record High: 94F

Record Low: 43F

Rain: 55 inches per year with no dry/wet season

Posted

From my own personal experience the top winners are Cham. metallica and Syagrus schizophyllum. Both do extremely well indoors with only filtered light.

Rick Leitner

Fort Lauderdale, Florida

26.07N/80.15W

Zone 10B

Average Annual Low 67 F

Average Annual High 84 F

Average Annual Rainfall 62"

 

Riverfront exposure, 1 mile from Atlantic Ocean

Part time in the western mountains of North Carolina

Gratefully, the best of both worlds!

Posted

Thank you for the advice!

Dan

Foggy San Francisco

Average Monthly Hi 60.2 F

Average Monthly Lo 49.9 F

Avearge Monthy 55.2F

Average Summer Hi 61.8F

Average Winter Lo 45.8

Posted

Raphis excelsa cannot be beat.It tops my list for indoor palms that look great.I also had a Arenga undulatifolia that did very well next to a window.

El Oasis - beach garden, distinct wet/dry season ,year round 20-38c

Las Heliconias - jungle garden ,800m elevation,150+ inches rainfall, year round 15-28c

Posted

There was a nice thread on this a while back on the Hardy Palm forum, archived at http://exoten.dyndns.org/cgi-bin/hardy.cgi...2297A5BEB85BDEE .

Hyophorbe verschaffeltii has done very well indoors for me. This year I decided to just get the palms I most want, and see how they do indoors. Many are rainforest plants that take low light levels when young, which sounds good for indoors, but of course they want more humidity than found indoors. We'll see what happens!

zone 7a (Avg. max low temp 0 to 5 F, -18 to -15 C), hot humid summers

Avgs___Jan__Feb__Mar__Apr__May__Jun__Jul__Aug__Sep__Oct__Nov__Dec

High___44___49___58___69___78___85___89___87___81___70___59___48

Low____24___26___33___42___52___61___66___65___58___45___36___28

Precip_3.1__2.7__3.6__3.0__4.0__3.6__3.6__3.6__3.8__3.3__3.2__3.1

Snow___8.1__6.2__3.4__0.4__0____0____0____0____0____0.1__0.8__2.2

Posted

I'd vote for most Rhapis, but Cham. metallica is trouble free and prob the best. Got to watch those Rhapis to not dry out. If the do, their gonners.

Dick

Richard Douglas

Posted

One that no one mentioned, that I've had some success with indoors, is Basselinia gracilis. It grew very well for me for a couple of years, but suddenly died. It can be a touchy plant so I don't think that it was the indoor cultivation that killed it. Nice an small too, for a quaint little spot.

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

Posted

I think the best palms for indoors in terms of ornamental appeal are the smaller Calyptrocalyx, Iguanura, Geonoma and Pinanga species and those of similar genera that have numerous small understorey species. Many offer colourful new foliage amd most are very elegant. They are less likely to outgrow their surroundings than many of the more popular indoor palms, which often grow into large palms and all cope with relatively low light and pot culture. The main stumbling block for most of these species is their need for high humidity, but in a well humidified environment, they should look great.

  • Like 2

]

Corey Lucas-Divers

Dorset, UK

Ave Jul High 72F/22C (91F/33C Max)

Ave Jul Low 52F/11C (45F/7C Min)

Ave Jan High 46F/8C (59F/15C Max)

Ave Jan Low 34F/1C (21F/-6C Min)

Ave Rain 736mm pa

Posted

I've had great success with Calyptrocalyx, Dypsis, Burretiokentia, Alloschmidia, Actinokentia, Kentiopsis, Chambeyronia and even Areca vestiaria indoors in a relatively cool apartment (temps in low to mid 60's.). Pinanga has been a colossal failure for me. Many Pinangas cannot tolerate the extended cooler conditions with the exception of P. kuhlii.

I think the key factors are temperature, humidity, and moisture. I keep the temps down, which limits growth, but also limits water intake. I also wick all excess moisture away from the soil after watering.

Cincinnati, Ohio USA & Mindo, Ecuador

 

Posted

In Brazil a very commonly cultivated indoor palm is Lytocarium wedellianum. I have one growing in the bathroom for ten years now and three growing outside.

  • Like 1

Carambeí, 2nd tableland of the State Paraná , south Brazil.

Alt:1030m. Native palms: Queen, B. eriospatha, B. microspadix, Allagoptera leucocalyx , A.campestris, Geonoma schottiana, Trithrinax acanthocoma. Subtr. climate, some frosty nights. No dry season. August: driest month. Rain:1700mm

 

I am seeking for cold hardy palms!

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Wow so much to try.

Thanks

Dan

Foggy San Francisco

Average Monthly Hi 60.2 F

Average Monthly Lo 49.9 F

Avearge Monthy 55.2F

Average Summer Hi 61.8F

Average Winter Lo 45.8

Posted

I have had pretty good luck with quite a few different ones inside. I just brought them all in for the winter so actually wrote down what I had, and it ended up to be about 75 palms. They do surprisingly well inside. I put a 4 x 4' skylight in a room with no windows that I wasn't using. and other than watering them periodically-they just stay there or other rooms that have skylights. I never mist them during the winter.

Here are some that do really well for me:

Pinangas, Licualas, Veitchia (only have the spirals), Arenga, Syagrus, Verschafeltia, Pritchardias, Actinorhytis (just calapparia), Caryotas, Calyptrocalyx, Ptychospermas, Hydriasteles, Hyophorbes, Wodyetia, Schippia, Dypsis , Archontophoenix, Arecas (vestiaria-maroon and orange), Chambeyronias, Kerriodoxa, Geonomas, Asterogyne ( martiana-one of my favorites and one that does so well inside that some summers I leave inside), Ravenea, Marojejya (darianii).

The majority of these have gone through several winters inside, so thats a good sign. I also suspect that coming out for the summer and experiencing our hot, humid summers does them good as well. that is when I see the most growth on them. This fall I did something different. I added iron, bloodmeal and magnesium (just a small amt) to them for the winter, and also just a very small amt of slow release fert as I don't have time in the spring until late may to fertilize them.

Posted

This palm group has already been mentioned, but thought that I would show a shot of my Adonidia merrillii. Started this one from seed about 10 years ago and it has always been inside. Also, sorry to admit it but also has been neglected some of the time. Have two of them inside and I have not had any problems at all.

Marvin

post-1072-1224809343_thumb.jpg

Posted

Ive tried quite a few inside. My problem has been, even though I am careful about my outdoor watering...inside, I forget! So, I only have Howea's inside. Mine will wilt for over a week, halfway to the ground and recover without any problems. I lost a nice Rhapis that I let get too dry once. C. metallica can get by away from light sources quite well, although Id be hesitant to let it get too dry.

Glenn

Modesto, California

 

Sunset Zone 14   USDA 9b

 

Low Temp. 19F/-7C 12-20-1990         

 

High Temp. 111F/43C 07-23-2006

 

Annual Average Precipitation 13.12 inches/yr.

 

             

Posted

Caryota zebrina, Crysophila albida, Licuala sumawongii, all Livistona sp., Cyrtostachys, and Kerriodoxa all do well indoors for me.

As Colin in Australia told me a while ago, the trick is to put moss on top of the soil and take the plants outside every couple of weeks to leech the soil. Allow all water to drain completely, then move back inside. This prevents salt and mineral build-ups in the soil which causes black leaf tips and eventually death. (NEVER water indoor palms periodically with a cup of tap water!)

Posted

Hi JD

Looks like you are enjoying Florida

Hello Dan

Humidity and fresh rain water to flush the salt build up in the soil works well, Move the palm out side when raining (when it is warm enough), the rain water and fresh circulating air is great for the palms. This worked on my Lipstick palm for 5 years. Did not have to water it very much during winter, The Spagnum moss on the top of the pot kept the soil moist and help keep the humidity up, In the case of palms from a hot, humid climate the pot was suspended over tray of water which in my case was the container base turned sideways which suspended the container above it.

Went away for a week this winter and the power went off, the lipstick did not survive the 5c nights and 9c day but it did last 5 years. Do not let the soil be wet all the time, it must dry out like it does in nature.

regards

Colin

coastal north facing location

100klm south of Sydney

NSW

Australia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...