My germination projects

[Mohsen]

On 3/15/2016, 12:45:15, Mohsen said:

update : 15-3-2016

Hyophorbe lagenicaulis

3rd bifid

Just came back from 3 weeks holiday and noticed my  Hyophorbe lagenicaulis is dead...

I noticed some fungus or whetev is that white stuff at the lwoer part of the stem ...I used Hydrogen Peroxide but was not effective...

unfortunately the same thing has happened to my most of my Hyophorbe verschaffeltii seedling as well...not sure what caused that cold weather? too much water  

  

[Steve Mac]

It looks like it hung itself to end its misery. 

[Mohsen]

3 hours ago, gtsteve said:

It looks like it hung itself to end its misery. 

It does  the rope was to save her though not to finish it up  

 need to know the cause...I have lost quite few seedling the same way this winter...  

[Ben in Norcal]

30 minutes ago, Mohsen said:

It does  the rope was to save her though not to finish it up  

 need to know the cause...I have lost quite few seedling the same way this winter...  

I would guess root fungus, Mohsen.  I lost quite a few babies last winter here in the greenhouse...I'm thinking too much watering, and cooler temps.  I'm going to be employing a more systematic anti-fungal strategy moving forward - look into systemic anti-fungals such as Subdue, Banrot, Cleary's.

[Monòver]

Like Ben says, root fungus. Cool temps and too much water.

In my greenhouse in Winter, i have a fan working a few hours per day. I open the greenhouse every days to change air and spray fungicide every months.

And the most important, no water. I water my greenhouse palms one or two times per month.

With this, last Winter i had 0 death palms.

[Mohsen]

2 hours ago, Ben in Norcal said:

I would guess root fungus, Mohsen.  I lost quite a few babies last winter here in the greenhouse...I'm thinking too much watering, and cooler temps.  I'm going to be employing a more systematic anti-fungal strategy moving forward - look into systemic anti-fungals such as Subdue, Banrot, Cleary's.

 

50 minutes ago, Monòver said:

Like Ben says, root fungus. Cool temps and too much water.

In my greenhouse in Winter, i have a fan working a few hours per day. I open the greenhouse every days to change air and spray fungicide every months.

And the most important, no water. I water my greenhouse palms one or two times per month.

With this, last Winter i had 0 death palms.

Thanks for the input

i have been watering them every week, that might be the reason ...but I lost mostly only Hyophorbes...they might be more cold sensitive compare the others...

BTW, is Hydrogen Proxide effective on fungus?

[Monòver]

Yes it is effective, but when you see rot problems in a seedling, always is too late.

For a preventive strategy i think is better to use an antifungal like Metil tiofanato or clortalonit.

[Mohsen]

On 19 December 2015 at 2:11:37 AM, Mohsen said:

I got 2 Phoenix roebelenii germinated...I assume they are remote germinators, Pal, do you have any experience with them?

Update 9-9-2016

Pal, @Pal Meir this triple is in a very tiny pot (6 cm diameter , 6 cm dept ) , when should I repot them?

[Pal Meir]

13 minutes ago, Mohsen said:

Update 9-9-2016

Pal, @Pal Meir this triple is in a very tiny pot (6 cm diameter , 6 cm dept ) , when should I repot them?

I would wait still a couple months when weather is getting hotter. Then I would choose Ø12xH12cm plastic pots. I had kept them quite long in tiny Ø8xH9cm clay pots:

[Mohsen]

update on my Sabal s: 20 sept 2016

still only one eophyll , they seem very slow and they look very each other ...

 

Sabal palmetto:

 

Sabal Minor :

Sabal serrulata :

Sabal causiarum:

Sabal rosei:

[Mohsen]

after almost 3 month 1 of Nephrosperma van-houtteanum been germinated :

@Pal Meir Pal, which part is radicle?

 

also one of Areca triandra been germinated after 3 months too :

[Pal Meir]

1 hour ago, Mohsen said:

after almost 3 month 1 of Nephrosperma van-houtteanum been germinated :

@Pal Meir Pal, which part is radicle?

Nephrosperma can grow more than only one radicle.

[Phoenikakias]

Actually the currrently valid name for Sabal serrulata is Serenoa repens.

[Mohsen]

1 hour ago, Phoenikakias said:

Actually the currrently valid name for Sabal serrulata is Serenoa repens.

Thanks Konstantinos,

The seeds of Serena Repens are from you and they got germinated 100%

[Mohsen]

7 hours ago, Pal Meir said:

Nephrosperma can grow more than only one radicle.

Thanks Pal, it's perfect

I believe all Palm references should use your illustrations more often

[Mohsen]

On 11/27/2015, 3:30:16, Mohsen said:

thanks Steve for the nice story/fact

It seems germination of Cycads seeds are not as common as Palm seeds among Palm lovers

update on my Sabal s: 20 sept 2016

still only one polmeto , they seem very slow and they look very each other ...

[Mohsen]

On 11/24/2015, 4:20:17, gtsteve said:

Yes. It was a very unfulfilling exercise, mine took about a year to sprout. mind you I don't use accepted best practice, 

I just put them in the ground and forget them, then a year or so later I have forgotten what they were and when I put them in.

Once I thought that a cycad of a few years old, had died so I put a brick path over it and six months later, I had forgotten it, and

it lifted up one of the bricks despite my attempts to flatten it every time I walked over it.

That was a Macrozamia communis which eventually 20 years later became a big spiky nuisance on the edge of my crooked path.  

2 of my lepidozamia peroffskyana seed are germinated after 11 months   never had Cycad seeds germinated before..they seem so hairy and different ...

should I keep them in shade now?anyone knows?

[Steve Mac]

Mohsen, you have this in the wrong thread, Cycads are not palms. The mods will probably move it.

It should be in the other section, "Off topic forums, Tropical looking plants other than palms."

If I don't tell you someone else will.

Mine have come up too. I'll get time in a couple of days to post them in the proper place. 

you will find that they will grow much faster than a palm for a while now, then stall at the first or second leaf.

I would give them full sun at this time of the year, I don't know what others would do. 

[Pal Meir]

On 8.5.2016, 02:58:25, Mohsen said:

@Pal Meir, I think something wrong here...after months not weeks and still no 2nd-3rd leaf of my Lytocaryum Hybrids not appearing     ...

and generally I think all of my seedlings are not growing to a standard pace...

shat might be wrong ? what can I do ?

 

No new leaves? If the 4th leaf is still undivided and relatively big it might be L insigne or L wed x ins …

[Mohsen]

1 hour ago, Pal Meir said:

No new leaves? If the 4th leaf is still undivided and relatively big it might be L insigne or L wed x ins …

Pal, I think they don't even have the 3rd leaf yet

will double check tomorrow , also I put two of them under sun ( morning) as L,Insigne grow under full sun?

[Pal Meir]

1 hour ago, Mohsen said:

Pal, I think they don't even have the 3rd leaf yet

will double check tomorrow , also I put two of them under sun ( morning) as L,Insigne grow under full sun?

Only if they are already accustomed to direct sun.

[Missi]

Ah! I have thoroughly enjoyed reading this post with all of Mohsen's questions and photos and all of Pal Meir's answers and photos. Keep it coming, guys!

[Mohsen]

4 of Areca triandra  ...I keep them in "box of Sphagnum Moss...so the root is grow downside in correct direction...

Pal, when do you think I should re pot them and what should I use as mix? I think they are tropical so should I use your nano greenhouse  

It seems they are adaptive to low light ...

http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Areca_triandra

 

 

[Pal Meir]

1 hour ago, Mohsen said:

4 of Areca triandra  ...I keep them in "box of Sphagnum Moss...so the root is grow downside in correct direction...

Pal, when do you think I should re pot them and what should I use as mix? I think they are tropical so should I use your nano greenhouse  

It seems they are adaptive to low light ...

http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Areca_triandra

I would repot them now (or the smaller ones a bit later) in the L weddellianum mix, i.e. 2/3 fine pine bark + 1/3 Seramis + 1 cm LECA layer on the bottom. You don’t need a nano-greenhouse if you water them adequately and use that well draining soil mix.

[Mohsen]

On 11/1/2016, 11:30:17, Pal Meir said:

I would repot them now (or the smaller ones a bit later) in the L weddellianum mix, i.e. 2/3 fine pine bark + 1/3 Seramis + 1 cm LECA layer on the bottom. You don’t need a nano-greenhouse if you water them adequately and use that well draining soil mix.

Hi Pal

Is attached rectangular pot suitable for them? it is 10X10x12?

 

[Pal Meir]

5 hours ago, Mohsen said:

Hi Pal

Is attached rectangular pot suitable for them? it is 10X10x12?

Size and shape may be okay, but the colour ………?

[Mohsen]

43 minutes ago, Pal Meir said:

Size and shape may be okay, but the colour ………?

I might give it to my wife then

 

[Mohsen]

On 5 November 2016 at 9:12:20 PM, Pal Meir said:

Size and shape may be okay, but the colour ………?

I pot them up in black pots ( not pink  )

use 1/3 Seramis + 2/3 Premium potting mix + 1cm layer of Leca

i keep two in my office and 2 outside in shade 

wish me luck

 

[Pal Meir]

1 hour ago, Mohsen said:

I pot them up in black pots ( not pink  )

use 1/3 Seramis + 2/3 Premium potting mix + 1cm layer of Leca

i keep two in my office and 2 outside in shade 

wish me luck

Looks much better! And good luck with your babies! (How many potted palms do you have now? 1,001?)

PS: Don’t overwater; the pots are quite large and the »Premium potting mix« does not have the same drainage as »fine pine bark«.

[Mohsen]

15 hours ago, Pal Meir said:

Looks much better! And good luck with your babies! (How many potted palms do you have now? 1,001?)

PS: Don’t overwater; the pots are quite large and the »Premium potting mix« does not have the same drainage as »fine pine bark«.

Thanks Pal,

they should be 100+ at least...I am out of room for any extra pots, having said that I have lost few potted palms which left more room for others,,,

I just wish I could find fine pine barks in Australia,,,

[Phoenikakias]

Sorry for my present small deviation, but I can not find a another, more suitable, topic to post my own question: I plan to donate some seeds of a distinct Chamaerops for and I wish to make sure whether those seeds are fertile. So had made a cross section to inspect interior and search for a healthy embryo as @Pal Meir has pointed out in the past. Pictures do not reproduce natural colors, the interior is much more closer to creamy transparent than brown. But this lighter stripe, is it actually the embryo?

[Mohsen]

On 1/16/2016, 2:37:42, Mohsen said:

just received 7 seeds of Brahea armata from eBay ...

all are sinkers so helpfully they are viable...

anyone has any experience germinating them? Pal, have you tried them before? are they remote germinators?

after 11 months, 2 out of 7 Brahea armata  been germinated

@Pal Meir @Phoenikakias any suggestion for soil type, pot size ?

 

[Pal Meir]

9 minutes ago, Mohsen said:

after 11 months, 2 out of 7 Brahea armata  been germinated

@Pal Meir @Phoenikakias any suggestion for soil type, pot size ?

Brahea is a remote-ligular germinator; as soil for the young plants I would recommend a very fast draining mix like ca. 1/2 Seramis + 1/2 cacti soil.

[Phoenikakias]

I had excellent results with loamy soil, and very poor results with very fertile, soggy soil. In the gound it grows very well in clay soil full of sand and gravel. My present Brahea, when bought, had been a very healthy and vigorous  juvenile, small palm, well anchored in a reddish pot soil. On a former attempt to grow this sp, plant never rooted well in black, fertile soil, which becomes after a while soggy.

Edited November 19, 2016 by Phoenikakias

[Mohsen]

13 hours ago, Phoenikakias said:

I had excellent results with loamy soil, and very poor results with very fertile, soggy soil. In the gound it grows very well in clay soil full of sand and gravel. My present Brahea, when bought, had been a very healthy and vigorous  juvenile, small palm, well anchored in a reddish pot soil. On a former attempt to grow this sp, plant never rooted well in black, fertile soil, which becomes after a while soggy.

Thanks Konstantinos

What is the normal potting mix?fertile soil?

where can I buy Loamy soil?

[Phoenikakias]

I fear you can not buy it, but rather make your own. It is actually soil for lawn combined with organics from dried grass. The mower chops down any naturally sprouted seedlings and they regrow from nothing above ground. This soil therefore must be very good for them.

[Mohsen]

23 hours ago, Pal Meir said:

Brahea is a remote-ligular germinator; as soil for the young plants I would recommend a very fast draining mix like ca. 1/2 Seramis + 1/2 cacti soil.

Pal, do you have any "After" pictures for those Brahea Armata?

[Phoenikakias]

4 hours ago, Phoenikakias said:

I fear you can not buy it, but rather make your own. It is actually soil for lawn combined with organics from dried grass. The mower chops down any naturally sprouted seedlings and they regrow from nothing above ground. This soil therefore must be very good for them.

[Pal Meir]

5 hours ago, Mohsen said:

Pal, do you have any "After" pictures for those Brahea Armata?

The seedling was half a year old in Dec 1986; it was potted only in cacti soil. Later I potted it into ca. 3/4 Seramis; BTW Seramis is burnt loam. — I tried to keep that palm by root pruning as long as possible as a small bonsai:

[Phoenikakias]

Is loam and Lehm dasselbe, err sorry, the same thing?