Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted September 5, 2016 On 3/15/2016, 12:45:15, Mohsen said: update : 15-3-2016 Hyophorbe lagenicaulis 3rd bifid Just came back from 3 weeks holiday and noticed my Hyophorbe lagenicaulis is dead... I noticed some fungus or whetev is that white stuff at the lwoer part of the stem ...I used Hydrogen Peroxide but was not effective... unfortunately the same thing has happened to my most of my Hyophorbe verschaffeltii seedling as well...not sure what caused that cold weather? too much water Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtsteve 1,246 Report post Posted September 5, 2016 It looks like it hung itself to end its misery. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted September 5, 2016 3 hours ago, gtsteve said: It looks like it hung itself to end its misery. It does the rope was to save her though not to finish it up need to know the cause...I have lost quite few seedling the same way this winter... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ben in Norcal 1,998 Report post Posted September 5, 2016 30 minutes ago, Mohsen said: It does the rope was to save her though not to finish it up need to know the cause...I have lost quite few seedling the same way this winter... I would guess root fungus, Mohsen. I lost quite a few babies last winter here in the greenhouse...I'm thinking too much watering, and cooler temps. I'm going to be employing a more systematic anti-fungal strategy moving forward - look into systemic anti-fungals such as Subdue, Banrot, Cleary's. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monòver 1,068 Report post Posted September 5, 2016 Like Ben says, root fungus. Cool temps and too much water. In my greenhouse in Winter, i have a fan working a few hours per day. I open the greenhouse every days to change air and spray fungicide every months. And the most important, no water. I water my greenhouse palms one or two times per month. With this, last Winter i had 0 death palms. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted September 5, 2016 2 hours ago, Ben in Norcal said: I would guess root fungus, Mohsen. I lost quite a few babies last winter here in the greenhouse...I'm thinking too much watering, and cooler temps. I'm going to be employing a more systematic anti-fungal strategy moving forward - look into systemic anti-fungals such as Subdue, Banrot, Cleary's. 50 minutes ago, Monòver said: Like Ben says, root fungus. Cool temps and too much water. In my greenhouse in Winter, i have a fan working a few hours per day. I open the greenhouse every days to change air and spray fungicide every months. And the most important, no water. I water my greenhouse palms one or two times per month. With this, last Winter i had 0 death palms. Thanks for the input i have been watering them every week, that might be the reason ...but I lost mostly only Hyophorbes...they might be more cold sensitive compare the others... BTW, is Hydrogen Proxide effective on fungus? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monòver 1,068 Report post Posted September 5, 2016 Yes it is effective, but when you see rot problems in a seedling, always is too late. For a preventive strategy i think is better to use an antifungal like Metil tiofanato or clortalonit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted September 10, 2016 On 19 December 2015 at 2:11:37 AM, Mohsen said: I got 2 Phoenix roebelenii germinated...I assume they are remote germinators, Pal, do you have any experience with them? Update 9-9-2016 Pal, @Pal Meir this triple is in a very tiny pot (6 cm diameter , 6 cm dept ) , when should I repot them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pal Meir 5,174 Report post Posted September 10, 2016 13 minutes ago, Mohsen said: Update 9-9-2016 Pal, @Pal Meir this triple is in a very tiny pot (6 cm diameter , 6 cm dept ) , when should I repot them? I would wait still a couple months when weather is getting hotter. Then I would choose Ø12xH12cm plastic pots. I had kept them quite long in tiny Ø8xH9cm clay pots: 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted September 21, 2016 update on my Sabal s: 20 sept 2016 still only one eophyll , they seem very slow and they look very each other ... Sabal palmetto: Sabal Minor : Sabal serrulata : Sabal causiarum: Sabal rosei: 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted September 21, 2016 after almost 3 month 1 of Nephrosperma van-houtteanum been germinated : @Pal Meir Pal, which part is radicle? also one of Areca triandra been germinated after 3 months too : 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pal Meir 5,174 Report post Posted September 21, 2016 1 hour ago, Mohsen said: after almost 3 month 1 of Nephrosperma van-houtteanum been germinated : @Pal Meir Pal, which part is radicle? Nephrosperma can grow more than only one radicle. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenikakias 1,673 Report post Posted September 21, 2016 Actually the currrently valid name for Sabal serrulata is Serenoa repens. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted September 21, 2016 1 hour ago, Phoenikakias said: Actually the currrently valid name for Sabal serrulata is Serenoa repens. Thanks Konstantinos, The seeds of Serena Repens are from you and they got germinated 100% 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted September 21, 2016 7 hours ago, Pal Meir said: Nephrosperma can grow more than only one radicle. Thanks Pal, it's perfect I believe all Palm references should use your illustrations more often Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted October 11, 2016 On 11/27/2015, 3:30:16, Mohsen said: thanks Steve for the nice story/fact It seems germination of Cycads seeds are not as common as Palm seeds among Palm lovers update on my Sabal s: 20 sept 2016 still only one polmeto , they seem very slow and they look very each other ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted October 11, 2016 On 11/24/2015, 4:20:17, gtsteve said: Yes. It was a very unfulfilling exercise, mine took about a year to sprout. mind you I don't use accepted best practice, I just put them in the ground and forget them, then a year or so later I have forgotten what they were and when I put them in. Once I thought that a cycad of a few years old, had died so I put a brick path over it and six months later, I had forgotten it, and it lifted up one of the bricks despite my attempts to flatten it every time I walked over it. That was a Macrozamia communis which eventually 20 years later became a big spiky nuisance on the edge of my crooked path. 2 of my lepidozamia peroffskyana seed are germinated after 11 months never had Cycad seeds germinated before..they seem so hairy and different ... should I keep them in shade now?anyone knows? 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtsteve 1,246 Report post Posted October 11, 2016 Mohsen, you have this in the wrong thread, Cycads are not palms. The mods will probably move it. It should be in the other section, "Off topic forums, Tropical looking plants other than palms." If I don't tell you someone else will. Mine have come up too. I'll get time in a couple of days to post them in the proper place. you will find that they will grow much faster than a palm for a while now, then stall at the first or second leaf. I would give them full sun at this time of the year, I don't know what others would do. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pal Meir 5,174 Report post Posted October 20, 2016 On 8.5.2016, 02:58:25, Mohsen said: @Pal Meir, I think something wrong here...after months not weeks and still no 2nd-3rd leaf of my Lytocaryum Hybrids not appearing ... and generally I think all of my seedlings are not growing to a standard pace... shat might be wrong ? what can I do ? No new leaves? If the 4th leaf is still undivided and relatively big it might be L insigne or L wed x ins … Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted October 20, 2016 1 hour ago, Pal Meir said: No new leaves? If the 4th leaf is still undivided and relatively big it might be L insigne or L wed x ins … Pal, I think they don't even have the 3rd leaf yet will double check tomorrow , also I put two of them under sun ( morning) as L,Insigne grow under full sun? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pal Meir 5,174 Report post Posted October 20, 2016 1 hour ago, Mohsen said: Pal, I think they don't even have the 3rd leaf yet will double check tomorrow , also I put two of them under sun ( morning) as L,Insigne grow under full sun? Only if they are already accustomed to direct sun. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Missi 926 Report post Posted October 20, 2016 Ah! I have thoroughly enjoyed reading this post with all of Mohsen's questions and photos and all of Pal Meir's answers and photos. Keep it coming, guys! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted November 1, 2016 4 of Areca triandra ...I keep them in "box of Sphagnum Moss...so the root is grow downside in correct direction... Pal, when do you think I should re pot them and what should I use as mix? I think they are tropical so should I use your nano greenhouse It seems they are adaptive to low light ... http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Areca_triandra 4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pal Meir 5,174 Report post Posted November 1, 2016 1 hour ago, Mohsen said: 4 of Areca triandra ...I keep them in "box of Sphagnum Moss...so the root is grow downside in correct direction... Pal, when do you think I should re pot them and what should I use as mix? I think they are tropical so should I use your nano greenhouse It seems they are adaptive to low light ... http://www.palmpedia.net/wiki/Areca_triandra I would repot them now (or the smaller ones a bit later) in the L weddellianum mix, i.e. 2/3 fine pine bark + 1/3 Seramis + 1 cm LECA layer on the bottom. You don’t need a nano-greenhouse if you water them adequately and use that well draining soil mix. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted November 5, 2016 On 11/1/2016, 11:30:17, Pal Meir said: I would repot them now (or the smaller ones a bit later) in the L weddellianum mix, i.e. 2/3 fine pine bark + 1/3 Seramis + 1 cm LECA layer on the bottom. You don’t need a nano-greenhouse if you water them adequately and use that well draining soil mix. Hi Pal Is attached rectangular pot suitable for them? it is 10X10x12? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pal Meir 5,174 Report post Posted November 5, 2016 5 hours ago, Mohsen said: Hi Pal Is attached rectangular pot suitable for them? it is 10X10x12? Size and shape may be okay, but the colour ………? 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted November 5, 2016 43 minutes ago, Pal Meir said: Size and shape may be okay, but the colour ………? I might give it to my wife then 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted November 8, 2016 On 5 November 2016 at 9:12:20 PM, Pal Meir said: Size and shape may be okay, but the colour ………? I pot them up in black pots ( not pink ) use 1/3 Seramis + 2/3 Premium potting mix + 1cm layer of Leca i keep two in my office and 2 outside in shade wish me luck 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pal Meir 5,174 Report post Posted November 8, 2016 1 hour ago, Mohsen said: I pot them up in black pots ( not pink ) use 1/3 Seramis + 2/3 Premium potting mix + 1cm layer of Leca i keep two in my office and 2 outside in shade wish me luck Looks much better! And good luck with your babies! (How many potted palms do you have now? 1,001?) PS: Don’t overwater; the pots are quite large and the »Premium potting mix« does not have the same drainage as »fine pine bark«. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted November 9, 2016 15 hours ago, Pal Meir said: Looks much better! And good luck with your babies! (How many potted palms do you have now? 1,001?) PS: Don’t overwater; the pots are quite large and the »Premium potting mix« does not have the same drainage as »fine pine bark«. Thanks Pal, they should be 100+ at least...I am out of room for any extra pots, having said that I have lost few potted palms which left more room for others,,, I just wish I could find fine pine barks in Australia,,, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenikakias 1,673 Report post Posted November 13, 2016 Sorry for my present small deviation, but I can not find a another, more suitable, topic to post my own question: I plan to donate some seeds of a distinct Chamaerops for and I wish to make sure whether those seeds are fertile. So had made a cross section to inspect interior and search for a healthy embryo as @Pal Meir has pointed out in the past. Pictures do not reproduce natural colors, the interior is much more closer to creamy transparent than brown. But this lighter stripe, is it actually the embryo? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted November 19, 2016 On 1/16/2016, 2:37:42, Mohsen said: just received 7 seeds of Brahea armata from eBay ... all are sinkers so helpfully they are viable... anyone has any experience germinating them? Pal, have you tried them before? are they remote germinators? after 11 months, 2 out of 7 Brahea armata been germinated @Pal Meir @Phoenikakias any suggestion for soil type, pot size ? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pal Meir 5,174 Report post Posted November 19, 2016 9 minutes ago, Mohsen said: after 11 months, 2 out of 7 Brahea armata been germinated @Pal Meir @Phoenikakias any suggestion for soil type, pot size ? Brahea is a remote-ligular germinator; as soil for the young plants I would recommend a very fast draining mix like ca. 1/2 Seramis + 1/2 cacti soil. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenikakias 1,673 Report post Posted November 19, 2016 (edited) I had excellent results with loamy soil, and very poor results with very fertile, soggy soil. In the gound it grows very well in clay soil full of sand and gravel. My present Brahea, when bought, had been a very healthy and vigorous juvenile, small palm, well anchored in a reddish pot soil. On a former attempt to grow this sp, plant never rooted well in black, fertile soil, which becomes after a while soggy. Edited November 19, 2016 by Phoenikakias 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted November 20, 2016 13 hours ago, Phoenikakias said: I had excellent results with loamy soil, and very poor results with very fertile, soggy soil. In the gound it grows very well in clay soil full of sand and gravel. My present Brahea, when bought, had been a very healthy and vigorous juvenile, small palm, well anchored in a reddish pot soil. On a former attempt to grow this sp, plant never rooted well in black, fertile soil, which becomes after a while soggy. Thanks Konstantinos What is the normal potting mix?fertile soil? where can I buy Loamy soil? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenikakias 1,673 Report post Posted November 20, 2016 I fear you can not buy it, but rather make your own. It is actually soil for lawn combined with organics from dried grass. The mower chops down any naturally sprouted seedlings and they regrow from nothing above ground. This soil therefore must be very good for them. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mohsen 1,164 Report post Posted November 20, 2016 23 hours ago, Pal Meir said: Brahea is a remote-ligular germinator; as soil for the young plants I would recommend a very fast draining mix like ca. 1/2 Seramis + 1/2 cacti soil. Pal, do you have any "After" pictures for those Brahea Armata? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenikakias 1,673 Report post Posted November 20, 2016 4 hours ago, Phoenikakias said: I fear you can not buy it, but rather make your own. It is actually soil for lawn combined with organics from dried grass. The mower chops down any naturally sprouted seedlings and they regrow from nothing above ground. This soil therefore must be very good for them. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pal Meir 5,174 Report post Posted November 20, 2016 5 hours ago, Mohsen said: Pal, do you have any "After" pictures for those Brahea Armata? The seedling was half a year old in Dec 1986; it was potted only in cacti soil. Later I potted it into ca. 3/4 Seramis; BTW Seramis is burnt loam. — I tried to keep that palm by root pruning as long as possible as a small bonsai: 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenikakias 1,673 Report post Posted November 20, 2016 Is loam and Lehm dasselbe, err sorry, the same thing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites