Posted 08 May 2009 - 03:23 PM
So what do you reckon, horse manure is good or bad and why?
Millbrook, Western Australia 35S. Warm temperate. Csb Koeppen Climate classification. Winter 8C to 16C min/max, Summer 15C to 24C min/max. Approx 850mm rainfall with a winter peak. Driest month Feb with 25mm. 9km (5miles) from Southern Ocean. 6km (3.5miles) from Oyster Harbour. 13m asl. 1/3 clay, 2/3 peat soil on a flood plain.
It rains 6 months of the year and the other 6 months it continues dripping off the trees.
Posted 08 May 2009 - 03:41 PM
Others have said it releases more nitrogen that other manures which is good for palms.
So when you are on a good thing stick to it.
28 latitude, sub tropical
summer average 21c min - 29c max
winter average 10c min - 21c max
extremes at my place 5c - 42c
1100 average rainfall
Posted 08 May 2009 - 04:18 PM
Posted 08 May 2009 - 04:25 PM
I don't know how much (if any) sawdust is in your manure but in any case your manure must be composted completely or will rob nitrogen from the soil. If you have pure sand, any composted manure at all will be an improvement so use what you got.
so little time.
Coconut Creek, Florida
Zone 10b (Zone 11 except for once evey 10 or 20 years)
Last Freeze: 2011,50 Miles North of Fairchilds
Posted 08 May 2009 - 07:06 PM
Posted 08 May 2009 - 07:29 PM
I can tell you that my mother-in-law uses manures in her beds as opposed to commercial fertilizers, and they are always fabulous.
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Posted 09 May 2009 - 12:56 AM
Gold Coast Hinterland, Queensland 28S. Mild Humid Subtropical climate. Rainfall - not consistent enough!
Posted 09 May 2009 - 04:54 AM
When I first planted my garden 30 years ago, I faithfully sought out "Stable Litter" (as it was called then) to topdress my garden. I never had a problem with it. The stables I got it would throw down redwood shavings below the horses and scoop this up every day or two. The stables didn't really know what to do with it, so it was near free to obtain. I'd try to obtain more aged material when possible. I'd apply about a 2 inch layers throughout the garden. If it appeared to be too fresh, I'd supplement it with some slow release fertilzier or blood meal thrown down with the stable litter. Over three to six months it would break down and go into the soil. Then I'd do it again. If the litter had too much staw in it, it might look a bit shabby. But, that too would break down. Jim Wright and other San Diego growers did the same thing with stable litter in thier gardens. But as the urbran sprawled away from us, it got harder to obtain so I went with straight nitrolized fir shavings. Some soil companies use a bit of chicken manure in their soil preparations. Steer is typically to strong.
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