YES!!!! First if all I have to thank Gene at Az.! I had a handfull of Cycads that had yellowed out and I threw everything and the kitchen sink at them to no avail. I posted a pick of one of my favorite plants an Encephalartos “trappes valley” Latifrons that was stubbornly yellow and looking worse by the day! As I said I had tried every fertilizer chemical and organic you could think of except chelated iron. When Gene recommended I try it I was thinking what do I have to lose so I picked some up and gave it a try. WOW😳This stuff is unreal! Here is a pic of said E. Latifrons before chelated iron. It had looked like this for a couple years.

And here is a pic of it today! While not as green as my others yet it is getting greener by the day!

So I had a handfull of other yellow Cycads to experiment with and even faster results! As an added bonus most if these Cycads flushed again even if they had already flushed this year. I wish I had taken before and after picks of these Cycads but you will just have to take my word for it. This Lehmannii was very yellow and looked like it might not make it. The yellow leaves turned blue and I noticed today when I was watering its starting to flush!

This Horwood x Arewood “bride of frankenstein” was starting to yellow out so I dosed it with the chelated iron and not only did it green up but it is flushing for the 3rd time this year!

Encephalartos Trispinosus was looking bad! It has since greened up and getting hints of its former blue self again. It also has sterted to flush. The exciting thing us for several years the flushes have came out yellow or orange. This flush is coming out normal so should turn blue again.

This Dwarf Horridus was a wreck! While the leaves are still trying to turn blue it flushed almost immediantly main caudex and pup. While only one leaf flushes you can see from the pic how blue they are! I forgot to mention that the chelated iron will stain the surface of the soil nothing to worry about. I just sprinkle a little around and I believe it leaches down to the root zone each time I water.

This Encephalartos Arenarius x Horridus had… you guessed it yellow leaves. Hit it with the chelated iron and almost overnight they greened up and a couple weeks later it started to flush! If you guys have any problem yellow plants give it a try and it should work for you. And thanks again Gene at Az!!!!🤙

Nothing better than going for it and getting great results. Good one, and advice is always free and mistakes are costly. One great advantage of talking with other growers, and another is I learnt something new today, thanks for sharing your experience!

Oh yeah, for sure those needed some iron! I've had palm seedlings do that on me, usually with overwatering or soil that got too dense or mucky in the pot. I have some Ptychosperma Salomonense seedlings planted out front that desperately need iron. They were in a pot too long and do great in the soil. It's good that you reminded me, I completely forgot about spraying them with iron. I have used Palm Nutritional Spray before. What are you using?

This is the product I am using.

20 hours ago, Urban Rainforest said:

And here is a pic of it today! While not as green as my others yet it is getting greener by the day!

What's your water pH? pH 6.2 or 6.4 gets the best absorption of nutrients in cycads. Of course rain water is always best.

1 minute ago, Urban Rainforest said:

This is the product I am using.

Not sure what the Ph is but I’m sure its prob not great water being on San Diego municipal water. Don’t get alot of rain in so cal either but with this super El Nino we should get tons of rain this coming winter.Thanks again for the tip on chelated iron! It is working wonders on my Cycads!

@Urban Rainforest I'm using the same brand, but the EDDHA 6% version. I also have done foliar sprays with the Southern AG "Palm Nutritional Spray" for the same purpose. Are you doing a foliar spray, soil drench, or soil dry sprinkle, or something else?

Im totally new at this but I am using a dry sprinkle right before I water. It comes with a plastic spoon so I put one full spoon of powder on say a 15 gal. Sized plant and less as the pot size goes down. I have had results on liners sized Cycads by just adding a pinch of the stuff. The results usually start within week or 2. As I said before the results have been stunning with not only older leaves coloring back up but most of the plants throwing new flushes as well.

I have a trispinosus that was completely yellowed out and threw yellow orange flushes for the last couple of years that is throwing a nine leaf flush right now that is perfect original Tri color that I will post here soon!

Thanks for this Ive got a very yellow, small Encephalartos whitelockii in a pot, and have some chelated iron in the shed. Worth a go! (unless its just got root rot or something)

@Phil Petersen if you are concerned about root rot you can also foliar spray it diluted. That's what I have done with some potted palms that turned yellow. I just guessed it was root rot from the potting soil being too dense with too much watering. It seemed to work well, about the same as @Urban Rainforest dry sprinkle + watering method.

I haven't had problems with Whitelockii/Ituriensis in pots or in the ground, at least here in the swamp of Florida. The PTer I bought from used almost pure perlite and supplemental fertilizer. I used a "chunky" mix of perlite, potting soil, Turface MVP (fired clay pebbles) and sometimes a handful of mulch or small pine bark. I have around 10 in the ground, the only problem with them is frost damage below 30F. What are you doing for soil & water?

@Urban Rainforest I bet the sprinkle and water works great as long as it isn't root rot. I haven't been able to grow any of the South African blues (Tri, Lehmannii, etc) here due to crown and root rot. Some hybrids (Nat x Horr or Aemulans x Lehmannii) seem to work in dry areas of the yard.