Laurel oak tree dying

[miamicuse]

I have a Laurel oak tree (Quercus laurifolia) that is either dying or already dead.

It's about 25' tall and has a canopy about 30' in diameter.  All it's leaves have turned brown.

 

This is at a rental property I own, and last time I was there on May 1 it wasn't like this.

 

Is it completely dead?  It doesn't look like it can be saved...

 

I don't have any pictures of the bottom of the trunk or the roots because the bottom is surrounded and crowded by bromedliads 4' tall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[kinzyjr]

@miamicuse Can't say this is it for sure, but:

https://www.rawsonservices.com/a-deadly-disease-of-laurel-oak/

[Silas_Sancona]

12 hours ago, kinzyjr said:

@miamicuse Can't say this is it for sure, but:

https://www.rawsonservices.com/a-deadly-disease-of-laurel-oak/

Seems to match pretty closely to the suggested symptoms.. See similar symptoms in SOD ( = Sudden Oak Death ) effected trees but,  for now at least, it is confined to the west coast / western U.S. Much of the Eastern U.S. is highly susceptible though. 

[kinzyjr]

35 minutes ago, Silas_Sancona said:

Seems to match pretty closely to the suggested symptoms.. See similar symptoms in SOD ( = Sudden Oak Death ) effected trees but,  for now at least, it is confined to the west coast / western U.S. Much of the Eastern U.S. is highly susceptible though. 

It probably won't be long until Sudden Oak Death makes its way across the divide.

With Lethal Bronzing and Fusarium wiping out a lot of palms, it was at least briefly tempting to grow dicots, but they seem to have their own slate of issues that are just as bad and they're more expensive to remove.

[Silas_Sancona]

14 minutes ago, kinzyjr said:

It probably won't be long until Sudden Oak Death makes its way across the divide.

With Lethal Bronzing and Fusarium wiping out a lot of palms, it was at least briefly tempting to grow dicots, but they seem to have their own slate of issues that are just as bad and they're more expensive to remove.

How quickly / not it might spread to new areas will depend on nurseries with a long reach.. who ignore state / federal quarantine rules and intentionally sell susceptible plants to folks / other businesses in currently SOD free areas where the fungus can spread like wildfire.. 

Palms, Trees ...Pretty much anything " green n' leafy "...  Aside from cultural aspects that promote the best health possible,  best defence is doing enough homework to find and utilize species / genus that are the least susceptible to X Y and/or Z bacterial / fungal issue as possible,  and accepting that you still may not outwit every issue,  esp. in a world where everything from the plants themselves to the bacteria and fungi -good and bad-  associated with them are shifting around in response to climate - related factors...  



 

[miamicuse]

A couple more pictures.  I can't get to the bottom of the trunk to see up close because of the bromeliads crowding around the base.  This weekend I will be wearing some protective gloves and long sleeve shirts to wrestle these bromediads out of the way.

The leaves turning brown but not dropping is not a good sign.

The trunk showing brown spots under the bark is not a good sign.

Second picture you see some fungus growing at the bottom of the broms?  So something is rotting.

This property was built in 1955 so it's been 70 years.  I read that Laurel oaks live 50-70 years so it's just at the end of it's expected life span or is there some unnatural causes?

This is my first encounter of a tree of mine that died not due to a hurricane.

[Silas_Sancona]

On 7/1/2025 at 4:31 PM, miamicuse said:

A couple more pictures.  I can't get to the bottom of the trunk to see up close because of the bromeliads crowding around the base.  This weekend I will be wearing some protective gloves and long sleeve shirts to wrestle these bromediads out of the way.

The leaves turning brown but not dropping is not a good sign.

The trunk showing brown spots under the bark is not a good sign.

Second picture you see some fungus growing at the bottom of the broms?  So something is rotting.

This property was built in 1955 so it's been 70 years.  I read that Laurel oaks live 50-70 years so it's just at the end of it's expected life span or is there some unnatural causes?

This is my first encounter of a tree of mine that died not due to a hurricane.

Unless you know it was planted at the same time the house was constructed, to get an accurate age, you'd need to count growth rings. 

That said, like pretty much anything else, as a tree reaches " old age " it will become more susceptible to various things, esp. under stressful conditions.  All it can  take is a beetle / other organism that is the size of a rice grain transferring X or Y bacteria / fungus to that tree from another that is infected to start the process..  ...A process that the tree might have been fighting off, under the radar, for several years before something caused it's resistance to diminish to the point that it finally killed the tree.. 

Thick Bromeliad cover, that might keep more moisture around the trunk, could've been a factor, ...though i'd think that would've killed the tree much sooner ..if that were the case. 

...Some thoughts anyway.. 
 

[miamicuse]

I don't know that this tree was planted at the same time as original construction, that was just a guess.

Before the bromeliads, the bottom of the tree were all ferns.  I cleared the ferns out and planted bromeliads, but back in 2017 or so they were smaller, but now they got thick and tall.

It will be a bit of a headache to deal with this.  Since it's an oak the city will need a tree removal permit.  For a tree removal permit to approve I'll need a arborist report saying it's dead or it's damaging a foundation etc...than the cost to remove it, and than the city will want me to plant something at the property that is the same canopy size as this one I am removing.

[Silas_Sancona]

12 hours ago, miamicuse said:

Since it's an oak the city will need a tree removal permit.  For a tree removal permit to approve I'll need a arborist report saying it's dead or it's damaging a foundation etc...than the cost to remove it, and than the city will want me to plant something at the property that is the same canopy size as this one I am removing.

Being a property owner, im sure you're probably already well aware of this but, ...If... the city ( ..or arborist(s)  assessing the tree's condition < Not sure how they could come to any other conclusion other than it being totally dead > )  give you any grief on whether or not it is dead,  throw it right back at them with blunt, hard to wiggle out from questions regarding liability. 


Hopefully the permitting dept. there isn't as awful as some are and you don't run into any unnecessary red tape around this obvious case that should be permitted w/ out issue once any pre- approval assessment is complete..

As far as a replacement, you won't be able to replace it w/ another Oak, even if they say you could..  Fungus that killed that tree ( if that is the case < sure seems like it > ) will be in the soil / infect another oak / any other highly susceptible tree sp.  forever.


City wants any replacement tree to be huge, from the start, they can pay for it.   Plant whatever size you can afford.


 

[miamicuse]

So the bromeliads have been removed and now the trunk's bottom section is exposed.  There is a lot of fungus going on here.  If I am not mistaken this is a Ganoderma infection...I had a Ganoderma zonatum infection of a mature Royal palm at a property about a mile from this one, but I think that exclusively attack palms.  Is this another Ganoderma that attacks dicots?

Some of the conk's are huge.

The specific questions I have:

(1) this tree needs to be removed correct?

(2) is there an urgency to remove it or can it wait?

(3) during removal, will cutting the tree limbs cause this Ganoderma spores to spread to other trees nearby?

(4) Is the entire tree from roots to top all infected or is the infection limited to the lower trunk?  If I cut the upper branches can I use those limbs for firewood?

Found something from University of Florida's IFAS web site.

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/PP333

This may be what's I have.

[Silas_Sancona]

1 hour ago, miamicuse said:

So the bromeliads have been removed and now the trunk's bottom section is exposed.  There is a lot of fungus going on here.  If I am not mistaken this is a Ganoderma infection...I had a Ganoderma zonatum infection of a mature Royal palm at a property about a mile from this one, but I think that exclusively attack palms.  Is this another Ganoderma that attacks dicots?

Some of the conk's are huge.

The specific questions I have:

(1) this tree needs to be removed correct?

(2) is there an urgency to remove it or can it wait?

(3) during removal, will cutting the tree limbs cause this Ganoderma spores to spread to other trees nearby?

(4) Is the entire tree from roots to top all infected or is the infection limited to the lower trunk?  If I cut the upper branches can I use those limbs for firewood?

Found something from University of Florida's IFAS web site.

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/PP333

This may be what's I have.

80 or so Ganoderma species, some of which infect Dicots..


1:  Yes.. Asap.  I'd be on the phone getting bids, now. 


2: Longer you wait to get it removed = more time for any weakened branches / limbs to weaken further = higher chance wind can bring them down / cause damage..  Entire tree itself is increasingly vulnerable to total blow down -at the roots ..since they are being decomposed 24 -7- 365 by the Fungus.. 

3:  From what i remember, Ganoderma is typically confined to the lower portions of a tree but, i would be careful when taking the limbs down too.. 

Regardless,  it is widespread in the soil as- is  so,  it is likely present throughout the soil on your entire property.  Some extra saw dust from cutting of limbs / entire tree isn't going to change -anything-. 

4 yes, you can use the wood as firewood.. 

Without a detailed lab analysis, tough to say what the exact species is, though obviously one that infects Oaks..

[miamicuse]

The University of Florida local extension office looked at the photos and one of the master gardener suggested this link:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HS269

I think early next week I will have the arborist certification that will allow me to ask permission to remove this tree.

[SeanK]

. . . of course, I wouldn't use the chipped wood as mulch.

[Merlyn]

I had one of my biggest water oaks infected with one of the various forms of dicot Ganoderma.  It had just started looking unhealthy, and it was 4-5 feet diameter at the base...70 feet tall...and 12 feet from the house.  I made that a priority to remove once I discovered that.  With hurricane season upon us, I would not wait.  It's already dead, and the Ganoderma species would likely kill any new dicot planting in that spot.  

My recollection about city rules locally is that they wanted a replacement planting that would grow to the same ultimate size as the one you are taking down.  You could plant a small live oak replacement in the same spot to satisfy the legal requirements.  It'll die anyway...  Or if the rules are written to require a replacement tree you could plant a palm there instead.   

[miamicuse]

On 7/19/2025 at 3:41 PM, Merlyn said:

I had one of my biggest water oaks infected with one of the various forms of dicot Ganoderma.  It had just started looking unhealthy, and it was 4-5 feet diameter at the base...70 feet tall...and 12 feet from the house.  I made that a priority to remove once I discovered that.  With hurricane season upon us, I would not wait.  It's already dead, and the Ganoderma species would likely kill any new dicot planting in that spot.  

My recollection about city rules locally is that they wanted a replacement planting that would grow to the same ultimate size as the one you are taking down.  You could plant a small live oak replacement in the same spot to satisfy the legal requirements.  It'll die anyway...  Or if the rules are written to require a replacement tree you could plant a palm there instead.   

The way they do it here is based on "lost canopy".  Some calculations for the tree removed and how much canopy must be recovered by planting new trees.  There are minimum height and trunk caliper requirements.  Here is Broward County's requirement:

https://www.broward.org/Environment/WaterPrograms/Documents/Replacement Tree Category List.pdf

I think City of Fort Lauderdale is worse but I haven't asked yet.  I am actually afraid to ask as I was told if you can't replace all of the lost canopy you have to contribute a lot of $ to a tree fund.

Yet there is a state statue saying if a tree is dead or causing property damages it can be removed without notification to the city or need a permit to do so and the city can't require mitigation.

I got an arborist report now saying tree is dead and recommend removal.  I am still debating whether to go ahead and remove it or ask city via a permit which can result in additional $ for mitigation.

Palms can be planted but palms typically get very low canopy are credits.

[Merlyn]

@miamicuse I'll preface by saying I'm not a lawyer.  But if the state statute says you can remove a dead tree with no notice and the city can't require a permit or replacement, and you have an arborist report saying it's dead, then I'd remove it and not say anything at all to the city.  If code enforcement comes by hand them a certified copy of the "dead tree certification" and a copy of the relevant statute.  The reason that statute is there is exactly in cases like this.  It prevents cities from being "arbitrary and capricious" (in legal terms) in regards to removing hazardous conditions.

[miamicuse]

On 7/19/2025 at 8:59 AM, SeanK said:

. . . of course, I wouldn't use the chipped wood as mulch.

The wood won't be chipped, the branches and limbs will be cut down in sections and hauled away.

For the branches above the main trunk, where there doesn't appear to have any fungus, I was told it is OK to salvage...like say a piece of branch 6" in diameter 4' long, could I use it to mount some orchids on it and hang it off another tree?  Could I take a branch say 4" in diameter 10' long, and submerge half of it into my garden pond as a "feature"?  I was told this is OK...

[miamicuse]

1 hour ago, Merlyn said:

@miamicuse I'll preface by saying I'm not a lawyer.  But if the state statute says you can remove a dead tree with no notice and the city can't require a permit or replacement, and you have an arborist report saying it's dead, then I'd remove it and not say anything at all to the city.  If code enforcement comes by hand them a certified copy of the "dead tree certification" and a copy of the relevant statute.  The reason that statute is there is exactly in cases like this.  It prevents cities from being "arbitrary and capricious" (in legal terms) in regards to removing hazardous conditions.

I am not a lawyer either, and for the purpose of this discussion, I fully understand you are not offering legal advice, we are just having a discussion on "common sense" interpretation and understanding.

The actual statute statute is quite straight forward and concise:

http://www.leg.state.fl.us/statutes/index.cfm?App_mode=Display_Statute&URL=0100-0199/0163/Sections/0163.045.html

It basically says if it's residential property, and you have documentation provided by an arborist or landscape architect saying they recommend removal due to the tree poses an unacceptable risk to persons or property you can cut it down and the local government cannot require notification, permit, application, approval or mitigation.  On my case, since the tree is dead, to me it seems cut and dry that there is no other option.

Many cities responded to this state statute in different ways.  Some cities still require permits or approval by coming up with some around about way to explain it.  For example, city of Tampa decided to do this:

https://www.tampa.gov/construction-services/tree-information/interpretation-tree-removal-statutory-exemption

As a response to this statute, they recognize this statue, they said:

"However, the only manner by which the City can determine whether a tree was removed illegally, or whether the tree was legally removed under the Statutory Exemption, is for the property owner to provide the City with the documentation required by the statute. Therefore, in order to avoid issuance of a notice of violation, the property owner should provide the documentation required under the statute to the City, and the City can then determine whether the tree removal qualifies under the Statutory Exemption."

So basically they are saying they still want to approve it and the owner needs to ask permission, which is against the statute LOL!!!

[Merlyn]

@miamicuse I read the Tampa.gov article as saying that they might issue you a notice of violation if you cut it down without sending them the paperwork.  If you have the paperwork they are prohibited by State law from actually fining you or requiring you to replant.  But they might send Code Enforcement out to harass you if you cut it down and don't ever give them the signed documents.  The only real risk might be if the arborist isn't actually certified or didn't fill out the right piece of paper.

[miamicuse]

On 7/21/2025 at 2:11 PM, Merlyn said:

@miamicuse I read the Tampa.gov article as saying that they might issue you a notice of violation if you cut it down without sending them the paperwork.  If you have the paperwork they are prohibited by State law from actually fining you or requiring you to replant.  But they might send Code Enforcement out to harass you if you cut it down and don't ever give them the signed documents.  The only real risk might be if the arborist isn't actually certified or didn't fill out the right piece of paper.

Yup, that's the conundrum.  according to the state statue, local government cannot require notification, permit, application, approval or mitigation, and this sounds like they want notification and approval regardless.  I got an arborist report from a licensed landscape architect so I am good to go.

Problem with Fort Lauderdale is they have gone all electronic permitting and no longer have walk in talk to someone for advice and opinion service anymore.  I actually called their general inquiry last week and asked to be transferred to landscape division, and when I asked the question if a permit is required to cut down a Laurel oak on my property which I have a arborist report certifying it's duseased and dead in accordance to FL state requirements, t he e answer I got was all trees over 3" in trunk diameter at 3' off the ground requires a removal permit. I heard from some other tree company that Fort Lauderdale just played dumb and pretend the state statue doesn't exist which I found unbelievable until now.

I am not going to pay for a tree removal permit which requires a new full lot tree survey ($700) and then they may ask for canopy loss mitigation.

I got the removal scheduled next week.  Timber!

 

[Silas_Sancona]

23 hours ago, miamicuse said:

I am not going to pay for a tree removal permit which requires a new full lot tree survey ($700) and then they may ask for canopy loss mitigation.

I got the removal scheduled next week.  Timber!

  Chop that sucker down.

Let the city eat their $700.00 " Added red tape fee "   

[miamicuse]

The tree is gone.  Now I am left with bare ground and try to figure out how to move forward.

Today the tree crew came and cut the tree down to about 6" off the ground, starting by cleaning up the taller higher branches to keep clear the roof.  They went slow to cut smaller chunks until the tree branches are away from the house.  After that the action became more aggressive and cutting bigger chunks.

 

followed by stump grinding service to chew up an additional 8-10".

at the end, this is what I got now.  I asked the stump grinder operator to grind me a hole deeper to fit a 10 gallon pot and he did but I am not sure this is going to make a difference

Some planning to do for sure.

 

[miamicuse]

There is a lot of debris to clean up and haul away.

The front is basically a total mess.

I feel a bit overwhelmed.

Sharing some pictures back in 2014 when I redid the outside, using a double row of 4X4s to frame out the entire front of the house around the walkway and driveway, using this Laurel Oak as the centerpiece to run all the way to the figure 8 queen palm pairs.  I spent quite a bit of time to level everything and run the lumber, and boxed out four corners to plant some accent plants, filled the space between the 4X4s with river rocks.  Now this tree is gone and I am not sure I can plant anything in this space with a huge pile of chopped up stump mixed with this Ganoderma fungus.

Sharing some pictures after I finished this in 2014, this tree was fine back than.

[Silas_Sancona]

 Always sucks to loose  such a nice canopy forming tree but, ..you fully comprehend the threat that leaving something like that around poses.  

Good to hear the crew took their time taking it down ..though i myself would've tackled the section that looks like it was floating above the house down, first,  looks like they did everything correctly. 

As far as the next step?  look over any tree options that are resistant to Ganoderma,  there should be a few interesting options to choose from down there..  At the same time?, ..if the tree crew didn't do so for you after grinding,  you can drill holes in the stump and dump stump remover over it to help speed up the stump's decomposition process.

...That is if you're eventual goal is installing another tree. 
 

[miamicuse]

On 7/19/2025 at 8:59 AM, SeanK said:

. . . of course, I wouldn't use the chipped wood as mulch.

The chipped wood along with the diseased stump plus some conks are all chew up into a thick layer of sawdust mulch.  Not much I can do at this point.

[miamicuse]

3 hours ago, Silas_Sancona said:

 Always sucks to loose  such a nice canopy forming tree but, ..you fully comprehend the threat that leaving something like that around poses.  

Good to hear the crew took their time taking it down ..though i myself would've tackled the section that looks like it was floating above the house down, first,  looks like they did everything correctly. 

As far as the next step?  look over any tree options that are resistant to Ganoderma,  there should be a few interesting options to choose from down there..  At the same time?, ..if the tree crew didn't do so for you after grinding,  you can drill holes in the stump and dump stump remover over it to help speed up the stump's decomposition process.

...That is if you're eventual goal is installing another tree. 
 

Yes I am planning another tree.  

Something that is ganoderma resistant though not sure what they are.

Something that grows faster to give back some canopy sooner, but not a ficus.

I will have to find a spot amongst this footprint and see if I can push a hole through to bare dirt below, amongst the stump and surface roots.  The hole may be can take a 5 gallon bucket will allow me to plant a smaller starter tree may be 10-12' in height.ll

May be a royal poinciana.  May be I avoid the stump area and plant two a royal poinciana and a jacaranda counting on them to grow into each other, no.idea.

[miamicuse]

Just a quick question, I have the same tree service coming tomorrow to trim to trim a pongame oil tree.

I assume they will clean their pole saws and chain saws after cutting this diseased tree.  In case they haven't, I am going to insist they do as I don't want to transfer something to another tree.  What should they clean it with?  Bleach?  Alcohol?  Special magic plant disinfectant?

 

[Silas_Sancona]

2 minutes ago, miamicuse said:

Just a quick question, I have the same tree service coming tomorrow to trim to trim a pongame oil tree.

I assume they will clean their pole saws and chain saws after cutting this diseased tree.  In case they haven't, I am going to insist they do as I don't want to transfer something to another tree.  What should they clean it with?  Bleach?  Alcohol?  Special magic plant disinfectant?

 

Bleach or Alcohol will work as a disinfectant for the tools. 

Considering the Oak had mature Conks on it, spores of the Gano. infecting the tree have probably been spread around to every inch of your property for some time.  ...That's on top of the plethora of spores floating around in the air on their own originating from anywhere else nearby. 

Regardless,  definitely doesn't hurt to have the tree guys clean their tools when they trim the Pongame. 
 

[Silas_Sancona]

14 hours ago, miamicuse said:

May be a royal poinciana.  May be I avoid the stump area and plant two a royal poinciana and a jacaranda

You could do either of those... 

Or something like:  ** Natives will have better resistance to local Ganoderma ecotypes as well. **

Bahama Strongbark

Satin Leaf,  Chrysophyllum oliviforme.  

Crabwood

Lancewood

Fiddlewood

Jamaican Caper

Cinnamon Bark, Canella winteriana

Torchwood, Amyris elmifera

Allspice ..and/or.. Bay Rum

Jamaican Dogwood / Fish Poison Tree

Orange Geiger, ..if the fruit drop isn't an issue.. 

Guaiacum officinale.  G. sanctum is a nice option too but leaves are bigger on G. officinale. 

Mahogany, though i'm not sure if they're completely Gano. resistant

Acacia choriophylla


Some of these options may stay shorter than the Oak was, but will still provide shade once tall enough to plant under. 

Considering both Tree World and Redlands are practically in your back yard,  No shortage of folks to consult with about options. 

[Merlyn]

I think a Ficus Benghalensis would do great there!  Ooooooh maybe a nice Rainbow Eucalyyptus?  

I can't offer suggestions on Ganoderma-proof trees as a replacement.  My tactic for cleanup would be a trowel, shovel, reciprocating saw, and a big pinch bar.  But I'm kinda crazy that way.  The good thing is it wasn't an 80 footer, so hopefully the trunk and roots don't cover the whole area inside the railroad ties.  But keep in mind you don't HAVE to do anything immediately.  Just leaf blow the mulch to clean up, and maybe put some stump dissolver in there first.  Then take your time picking the right replacement.  I made a LOT of snap planting and purchase decisions, and do regret a few.  With a big focal point thing it's worth taking it easy and looking at a bunch of options.  And that helps with the overwhelming part of the dillemma too.

[miamicuse]

20 hours ago, Silas_Sancona said:

You could do either of those... 

Or something like:  ** Natives will have better resistance to local Ganoderma ecotypes as well. **

Bahama Strongbark

Satin Leaf,  Chrysophyllum oliviforme.  

Crabwood

Lancewood

Fiddlewood

Jamaican Caper

Cinnamon Bark, Canella winteriana

Torchwood, Amyris elmifera

Allspice ..and/or.. Bay Rum

Jamaican Dogwood / Fish Poison Tree

Orange Geiger, ..if the fruit drop isn't an issue.. 

Guaiacum officinale.  G. sanctum is a nice option too but leaves are bigger on G. officinale. 

Mahogany, though i'm not sure if they're completely Gano. resistant

Acacia choriophylla


Some of these options may stay shorter than the Oak was, but will still provide shade once tall enough to plant under. 

Considering both Tree World and Redlands are practically in your back yard,  No shortage of folks to consult with about options. 

Great list to explore!  Thanks!

I wonder if a white flower version of Pseudobombax ellipticum is worth considering as well.

[miamicuse]

14 hours ago, Merlyn said:

I think a Ficus Benghalensis would do great there!  Ooooooh maybe a nice Rainbow Eucalyyptus?  

I can't offer suggestions on Ganoderma-proof trees as a replacement.  My tactic for cleanup would be a trowel, shovel, reciprocating saw, and a big pinch bar.  But I'm kinda crazy that way.  The good thing is it wasn't an 80 footer, so hopefully the trunk and roots don't cover the whole area inside the railroad ties.  But keep in mind you don't HAVE to do anything immediately.  Just leaf blow the mulch to clean up, and maybe put some stump dissolver in there first.  Then take your time picking the right replacement.  I made a LOT of snap planting and purchase decisions, and do regret a few.  With a big focal point thing it's worth taking it easy and looking at a bunch of options.  And that helps with the overwhelming part of the dillemma too.

NO FICUS!!!

Yes it will be a while before the actual planting will happen.  I need to get the ground settled and see if I can get a hole through.

What is a good "stump dissolver"?  Is there something that will work fast and aggressive?  Or should I resort to what I saw on Youtube, drill hundreds of holes pour gasoline and lit a fire?  With all the chew up sawdust I'd probably burn the house down with it.

[Looking Glass]

Silver Buttonwood is very manageable and hurricane resistant, and that silver really pops. Gets to be decent size as a tree, but not so big that it will crush your house when the wind come.  A pair might fit well there.   

Gumbo Limbo has a lot of character also.    

Not sure about ganoderma resistance, but it’s ubiquitous in South Florida, so I don’t worry about it too much. 
 

On 8/6/2025 at 1:10 AM, miamicuse said:

I assume they will clean their pole saws and chain saws after cutting this diseased tree.  

That’s hilarious.   

[Silas_Sancona]

1 hour ago, miamicuse said:

Great list to explore!  Thanks!

I wonder if a white flower version of Pseudobombax ellipticum is worth considering as well.

Definitely an option.. though ..since that spot is a bit of a focal point that frames the front of the house from the street, you might consider a tree that is a touch more formal looking ( Dense, evergreen foliage, w/ a tighter canopy ) than Pseudobombax typically would be. 

Thinking on it, of everything i listed, i keep coming back to something like Allspice / Bay Rum as being a good ** potential ** candidate(s)..  Nice dense evergreen tropical looking foliage.  Both grow at a steady pace, don't get too tall, but will get wide enough to provide shade canopy below, and have smooth, interesting looking bark.  What fruit they produce is tiny ...so any cleanup- related considerations are kept to a minimum.. 

Footprint the roots would take up isn't invasive / aggressive either. 

Plus the leaves on both smell fantastic when you brush up against them. 

..Again though, list i made is just some options to look at and 🤔 on..  Get a few opinions from the growers there who know their trees and what will fit best in that spot / will resist Ganoderma the best. 

1 hour ago, miamicuse said:

NO FICUS!!!

Yes it will be a while before the actual planting will happen.  I need to get the ground settled and see if I can get a hole through.

What is a good "stump dissolver"?  Is there something that will work fast and aggressive?  Or should I resort to what I saw on Youtube, drill hundreds of holes pour gasoline and lit a fire?  With all the chew up sawdust I'd probably burn the house down with it.

 

 ..I think Merlyn was being sarcastic in referencing Ficus.. ..Since we both know just how much you love them, ha ha..  Wouldn't plant them myself unless i had the space to either. Definitely not in that spot for sure. 

Mer can add any thoughts but ...If it is available there ( Some places have yanked it from store shelves ..Because it can be used to make explosives ..) Stump Remover < any brand of it > will help speed up the decomp. process,  

How long that could take?.. Tough call.. Imagine it would happen faster there than it typically does here though.



Burning out the remaining stump?  Not difficult,  though ...depending on your city code, you might run into issues if you decided to, esp since you'll be doing that out front where any nosy neighbors can see you.


 

[Merlyn]

I actually do really like Ficus Auriculata, and have two of them in the yard.  But they are not at all hurricane resistant.  I really like the huge leaves, which is probably one reason they are NOT hurricane resistant.  

As far as stump remover goes, I have only ever done the manual extraction method.  But I have been told to use the stump remover in a bottle stuff and supposedly it works.  Supposedly the potassium nitrate ones work to rot stumps in 1 to 2 months.

[kinzyjr]

22 minutes ago, Merlyn said:

But I have been told to use the stump remover in a bottle stuff and supposedly it works.

I used a packet of something like this on a pine tree stump that was by my entryway.  It eventually rotted it until removing the wood felt like pulling Styrofoam out of a box, but it took a while.

[miamicuse]

3 hours ago, Merlyn said:

I actually do really like Ficus Auriculata, and have two of them in the yard.  But they are not at all hurricane resistant.  I really like the huge leaves, which is probably one reason they are NOT hurricane resistant.  

As far as stump remover goes, I have only ever done the manual extraction method.  But I have been told to use the stump remover in a bottle stuff and supposedly it works.  Supposedly the potassium nitrate ones work to rot stumps in 1 to 2 months.

I have seen too many ficus tree completely uprooted after storms.  Still was amazed at a neighbor with a 40' ficus came down on the road after Wilma, and I walked over and saw the underside of the tree root facing me, with a piece of 6" sewer line standing up wrapped around by the roots.

[miamicuse]

3 hours ago, kinzyjr said:

I used a packet of something like this on a pine tree stump that was by my entryway.  It eventually rotted it until removing the wood felt like pulling Styrofoam out of a box, but it took a while.

I have a 50' tall Royal removed in 2019 due to Ganoderma butt rot.  It was cut down to a trunk about 4" off the ground, used a chainsaw to score across the stump into a tic tac toe, and waterlogged it every time I irrigate near it.  Two years later nothing was rotted except the ancillary surface roots dried up and rotted the trunk never did.  I had a stump grinding service done to it in 2021, basically turned it into a "wooden bowl" 10 inches deep in the middle.  I piled the sawdust onto it, mulch and dirt and I watered it every week to get it saturated.  Last time I checked in May 2025, I scooped out all the mulch and dirt and it's still a wooden bowl, I hit it with an iron digging bar and it's rock solid.  So I still have a wooden bowl from a 24" diameter Royal 6 years later.

Very puzzling since that root is not a tree, and I couldn't comprehend how being subjected to the moisture down here for so many years, remain to be unyielding with no sign of any decay.  Unless it's ganoderma doing some weird petrification there.