New to Sagos

[Eamon.M]

I am new to Sago palms and I was wondering what the environment is I need to keep it in. I have an East facing balcony that it is on rn, so it will have tons of sunlight, how much is too much sunlight? It is averagely 80°F here in SLC Utah and I don’t expect it to get any warmer. So I am also wondering though where is a good place for my palm in the coming cold months?

[Fusca]

1 hour ago, Eamon.M said:

I am new to Sago palms and I was wondering what the environment is I need to keep it in. I have an East facing balcony that it is on rn, so it will have tons of sunlight, how much is too much sunlight? It is averagely 80°F here in SLC Utah and I don’t expect it to get any warmer. So I am also wondering though where is a good place for my palm in the coming cold months?

Sagos (Cycas revoluta) are cycads and not palms despite the common name.  They can handle full sun but look better with some shade in Texas.  In Utah on a balcony it's probably fine.  They can handle a lot of cold without damage but I would bring it inside the house or garage if you see extended freezing temps and/or temperature drop below 20°F.  I had one I grew from seed in a pot for 15 years before I finally planted it in the ground.

[SeanK]

Personally, I would double the diameter of the pot. Use a fast-draining soil mix.

Next year when it flushes, wait 4 to 6 weeks, then add 4TBS of 5/5/5 or 2TBS 10/10/10 lawn fertilizer.

[Las Palmas Norte]

I've also found that a daily heavy watering once the heat of late spring early summer arrives, produces a new flush of growth. I keep 'em on the dry side during winter here.

[Eamon.M]

On 9/7/2024 at 3:24 PM, Fusca said:

Sagos (Cycas revoluta) are cycads and not palms despite the common name.  They can handle full sun but look better with some shade in Texas.  In Utah on a balcony it's probably fine.  They can handle a lot of cold without damage but I would bring it inside the house or garage if you see extended freezing temps and/or temperature drop below 20°F.  I had one I grew from seed in a pot for 15 years before I finally planted it in the ground.

Since you also live somewhere that gets to be 100°F in the summer, is there a temperature that you would bring it inside if it got too hot? Also should I take any extra measures like misting the sago on the extra dry hot day?

[Eamon.M]

On 9/8/2024 at 9:25 AM, SeanK said:

Personally, I would double the diameter of the pot. Use a fast-draining soil mix.

Next year when it flushes, wait 4 to 6 weeks, then add 4TBS of 5/5/5 or 2TBS 10/10/10 lawn fertilizer.

Do you have any brand recommendations for fertilizer or soil? Or do you mix it all yourself?

[SeanK]

7 minutes ago, Eamon.M said:

Do you have any brand recommendations for fertilizer or soil? Or do you mix it all yourself?

Shouldn't matter. A fast-release lawn fertilizer should help it to flush a second time.

[Fusca]

1 hour ago, Eamon.M said:

Since you also live somewhere that gets to be 100°F in the summer, is there a temperature that you would bring it inside if it got too hot? Also should I take any extra measures like misting the sago on the extra dry hot day?

We had multiple 100°+ days here this summer and it didn't flinch.  As long as it's not in all day full sun and watered occasionally it should be fine.  When I had mine in a container I don't recall ever watering it more than once a week.

[Jeff zone 8 N.C.]

Just a little tip. They do not put out one leaf at a time but usually a whole years worth of leaves at once. When it starts a new flush of leaves (they do that once or maybe twice a year ) generally in spring,  then Do Not turn the pot or move it until the new flush is completely unfurled and hardened off. If you do the leaves will not come out straight but will curve sideways and will stay that way till the leaves did of old age.

[Merlyn]

I use typical "palm" type fertilizer on my ~250 in-ground cycads and 50ish in pots.  Lawn fertilizer or fast release will not work well, they can burn roots (especially in pots) and are missing key ingredients like Magnesium and Manganese.  

• Magnesium deficiency causes yellow tips on existing fronds.
• Manganese deficiency causes "frizzle top" browning of new flushes.

My trunking Revoluta get plenty of water in sandy soil in the summer.  We get daiky afternoon thunderstorms all summer and limited rain in the winter.  Most cycads will want to be fairly dry in the winter.

[Fusca]

On 9/9/2024 at 8:27 PM, Merlyn said:

• Magnesium deficiency causes yellow tips on existing fronds.
• Manganese deficiency causes "frizzle top" browning of new flushes.

I thought it was the other way around?  🤔

[Merlyn]

4 hours ago, Fusca said:

I thought it was the other way around?  🤔

Nope!    Magnesium is "mobile" in plant tissue, so palms and cycads can steal it from older fronds.  Thus when it's deficient in Magnesium you'll get older fronds with yellow tips first.  Manganese is not "mobile" in plant tissue, so it's only visible when new fronds open up distorted.  The problem in sagos is that you only find out it's manganese-deficient when a new flush shows up with "frizzle top."  You can see a good photo here: https://jurassicplants.wordpress.com/2014/07/06/frizzle-top/

[Fusca]

1 hour ago, Merlyn said:

Nope!    Magnesium is "mobile" in plant tissue, so palms and cycads can steal it from older fronds.  Thus when it's deficient in Magnesium you'll get older fronds with yellow tips first.  Manganese is not "mobile" in plant tissue, so it's only visible when new fronds open up distorted.  The problem in sagos is that you only find out it's manganese-deficient when a new flush shows up with "frizzle top."  You can see a good photo here: https://jurassicplants.wordpress.com/2014/07/06/frizzle-top/

I guess I get those two mixed up!  🙃  Good thing I haven't had much nutrient deficiencies!  Thanks for the clarification.