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Posted

Hi all,

I want to try to grow ocotillos from seeds. Does anyone have some good advice for a successful trial? Later, they have to stay in pots as my outside winter conditions will not be suitable for them.

I bought seeds from a guy in the US. 

Thanks 

Eckhard 

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Posted

I have had good germination by surface sowing in warm weather, but I've had bad luck keeping the seedlings alive(animals, thunderstorms, etc). 

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Yep, easy from seed.. though you'll have better germination rates if seed is as fresh as possible..  Testing some 4 yr old seed i have left this year ..Just to see if it does -anything-

After germination, keep drier and warm / under lights ( if starting indoors ) ... a little moisture is fine, but keeping them too wet = death.. 

Use a well draining soil mix that is  at least  60% mineral ..Not one high in organics.  Coco Peat is fine for the " Organic " content.  No Peat Moss. .

 These grow in many 8A areas in S.E. AZ, S. N.M. and W. TX. where temps can drop into the lower teens, occasionally lower, once larger ( Past 1 gal size / Approx a foot- 16" in height )  would try a couple outside in the warmest spot you might have on our property. 


Considering your success w/ Yucca sps that occur in the same areas as these,  i'd bet they will grow for you outdoors.

...Even if they don't quite as massive as this monster in the neighborhood, lol.. 

IMG_0901.thumb.JPG.4def877973f4e4474935cd0ee1a97a24.JPG

Edited by Silas_Sancona
edit
  • Like 3
Posted

I’ve had several in Fort Worth handle 0 degrees unprotected, and they can surprisingly can handle more water than what most think as long as they are not sitting in constantly wet soil. 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

Thanks for your reply. Germination started with nearly 100% so seeds seem to be fresh. I hope to keep them alive on a south facing window. Soil is a mix I also use for my yuccas.

I'm not really sure if they can survive my winter climate. Since a few days we have permanent frost down to -8°C / 16°F during night and -2°C / 28°F during day. Currently it's really dry but normally we have a lot of humidity. During stronger winters temps can drop down to -15°C / 5°F. My minimum temp was -18,7°C / -1,7°F in 2002.

But maybe I will give one survivor a trial next winter.

I'll keep you updated.

Eckhard

Edited by Palmensammler
  • Like 4

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Posted

I know they will def handle 0 to -1 degrees Fahrenheit because I had about 10 clients with them, and no one lost any. and don’t seem to mind humidity, so for sure worth a try in your climate. They have surprised me, one thing I have noticed in my climate were some of them are receiving weekly irrigation and heavier rain fall than they ever get in habitat, they seem to keep their leaves the entire growing season  

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

Sounds promising,  never thought they could be that hardy. Hopefully I get enough survivors for a trial.

First part of the seeds (6 out of 30) will be the ones where I hope to learn how to keep them alive.

Eckhard 

Edited by Palmensammler
  • Like 3

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Posted
2 hours ago, Palmensammler said:

Sounds promising,  never thought they could be that hardy. Hopefully I get enough survivors for a trial.

First part of the seeds (6 out of 30) will be the ones where I hope to learn how to keep them alive.

Eckhard 

Picture or two of your kiddos?

While they might not be everywhere up there, if they can survive, to this size at over 5Kft in the Santa Rita Foothills, where it can drop into the lower teens at least a couple times during the winter ..and snow..  I can't imagine them not surviving where you're at.

From the " Into Jaguar Country ", Sonoita / Las Cienegas trip, " Emerald Desert " Series,  back in Aug of '21

DSC05866.thumb.JPG.77d7f7378d41fb80835965af00138e6f.JPG

DSC05853.thumb.JPG.5f01f96f132addf2d17c072afd719aef.JPG

  • Like 2
Posted

Here's a picture of the little baybies.

20240114_145334.thumb.jpg.d50311324e5a999be0c305a86482c7c4.jpg

Hope they survive.

Eckhard

  • Like 2

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Posted (edited)

I hate to sound like a a braggadocio, I'm simply trying to add a little of my hands on experience for the poster, and anyone else that is seeking some observational (biased, but I feel pertinent) advice.

I've been fortunate to have thus far acquired all of the known species (and most of the varieties) of this family; the Fouquieriaceae. In my (some would say somewhat archaic) view of their classification, the family is composed of two genera; Idria and Fouquieria.

Idria is thus far composed of one species; Idria columnaris. It differs in a number of physical ways from the rest of the family (I'll expound if asked), but for this topic, all I'll add is some important cultural advice. This species is considered to be a "winter grower". By that I mean it does at least 90% of it'a growth between September and April. It's better not to water very much (if at all) in the other months. It is relatively cold hardy when over two years old, and is usually safe down to 18-23°. Older plants show very little damage down to 15° (more succulent and heat retaining tissue).

The species of Fouquieria vary quite a bit in their hardiness. Here's how I feel about their limits in my climate:

By far the most outstanding species to extreme weather is Fsplendens.

It has been shown to recover from subzero conditions, and grows in the hottest parts of the genus range.

The young seedlings are probably safe down to 18°, but I can only confirm them down to 23°.

The next most hardy species is Fshrevei. Followed in descending order by F. diguetii, F. formosa, F. fasciculata,  F. ochoterenae, F. leonilae, F. burragei, F. macdougalii, and Fpurpusii.

F. purpusii can be damaged at 30°, and even larger plants can be killed at 20°.

A common misconception is that although all species will grow faster with frequent water applications, the extra amounts should ONLY be given when the temperature range is between 75° to 105°. Otherwise rot can be the result.

As for growing them from seed, Sprouting them is easy for all species, but the best long term growth is best achieved using high intensity light, and not exposing them to scorching hot summer sun until they are a few years old. BTW, the seed viability is good for at least 4 years.

This method:

20240114_145334.jpg

is receiving too little light. The thin stems will collapse. Propping them up will help, but without more light, they won't thrive.

A typical high quality cactus mix not containing perlite, or peat will work the best in the long run. Although atypically elongated growth can be achieved using large pots, healthier growth will be accomplished using the smallest pots possible. IMHO, they should be transplanted only if they are blowing over from the wind (or from pets and/or children).

Hi 76°, Lo 43°

Edited by Tom in Tucson
I f'ed up
  • Like 1

Casas Adobes - NW of Tucson since July 2014

formerly in the San Carlos region of San Diego

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hi all,

Short update. After the first attempt failed completely the second one seems a little more successful. It's growing with full sun during the day.

One out of 5 is still alive and grows steadily.  Because of it's critical stage also took it with me on holiday to Italy.

20240512_200429.thumb.jpg.ef685b8710d8efa4a39815851742bbe6.jpg

Still have seeds for a third trial and already learned a lot in case this survivor will not make it.

Keep my fingers crossed 🤞

Eckhard

  • Like 3
  • Upvote 2

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Posted

Fouquieria splendens grow in parts of New Mexico that have seen -10 to - 15°F (-23 to -26°C). They are by far the hardiest Fouquieria. You won’t have a problem with cold but they don’t like constant moisture. They can eventually rot at the base and break apart.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks, I really learned a lot about root rot when trying to keep the seedlings alive. I hope I now found a way  to water them.

I'm quite sure that it will be potted as our winters are too wet. Do you think it will work on my covered terrace?

Eckhard 

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  • 3 months later...
Posted

Short update.  The first plant still grows slowly but steadily.

20240813_194318.thumb.jpg.b79442467c0b849b6e86d760f96baaa6.jpg

A second one seems to do fine as well.

20240813_194252.thumb.jpg.b0be1d6790eab88bb5383e1eeef57299.jpg

Hope they will survive their first winter.

Eckhard

  • Like 3
  • Upvote 1

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  • 6 months later...
Posted

Update about my two Ocotillos. Both do fine and after a winter dormancy they started to shoot new leaves. As soon as temps get warmer they will be brought outside.

Feeling so happy.

Greetings Eckhard

Ocotillo.jpg

Ocotillo2.jpg

Ocotillo3.jpg

  • Like 4
  • Upvote 2

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi all,

Short update.

Here are my two babies.

Compress_20250512_194912_2321.thumb.jpg.c63b21df2af0b1f6b37939094648230d.jpgCompress_20250512_194911_1004.thumb.jpg.c035171b044e402561c93e9a71c43f91.jpg

Greetings Eckhard

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1

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Posted
38 minutes ago, Palmensammler said:

Hi all,

Short update.

Here are my two babies.

Compress_20250512_194912_2321.thumb.jpg.c63b21df2af0b1f6b37939094648230d.jpgCompress_20250512_194911_1004.thumb.jpg.c035171b044e402561c93e9a71c43f91.jpg

Greetings Eckhard

:greenthumb::greenthumb:  Looking good!..

Posted

I'm so proud they thrive.

Do I have to take them with me next holiday again 🤔

I'm afraid the girl taking care of my plants while I'm away will kill them.

Eckhard

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Posted
52 minutes ago, Palmensammler said:

I'm so proud they thrive.

Do I have to take them with me next holiday again 🤔

I'm afraid the girl taking care of my plants while I'm away will kill them.

Eckhard

I'd put a big sign next to them that says " DO NOT  water ..AT  All "  Haha..

Or, if you'll be away for longer than say a week, place some sort of small container(s) w/ an exact  amount of water in them ...Which the " plant sitter " can give them  once,  every 10th or 12th day  ...If you're Holiday / Vacation will last a month..

At the stage they are at currently, they can dry out a little between watering w/out any harm. Especially if you're keeping them indoors / in a Patio room right now.   Bigger specimen esp.

  • Like 1

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