Madagascar Palm pruning

[BobStrauss]

Any suggestions on how to prune these safely? So that the main plant survives, but also the cutting is able to root? I’ve got one in my backyard in San Antonio, and it’s getting too tall now for me to protect over winter. If I could chop this back to fence level it would be sooo much easier.
 

[John2468]

You can just cut the main stem to your desired height and within a few weeks, new stems would emerge from the edges of the cut trunk. The cut part can be rooted, but I would recommend dusting it with rooting hormone and not to overwater it.

[Silas_Sancona]

1 hour ago, BobStrauss said:

Any suggestions on how to prune these safely? So that the main plant survives, but also the cutting is able to root? I’ve got one in my backyard in San Antonio, and it’s getting too tall now for me to protect over winter. If I could chop this back to fence level it would be sooo much easier.
 

 

1 hour ago, John2468 said:

You can just cut the main stem to your desired height and within a few weeks, new stems would emerge from the edges of the cut trunk. The cut part can be rooted, but I would recommend dusting it with rooting hormone and not to overwater it.

Note that, unless you have a greenhouse / can give the cutting lots of warmth ( 68-84F - ish daily until rooted for a lot of Pachypodiums is what i recall someone mentioning to me in the past ) through the winter while it tries to root, trying to start any cuttings off these is best done in mid / late spring ( cool / chilly + moist conditions when trying to root these ..or related plants like Plumeria / Desert Rose = more likely to rot than if done when it is warmer  ) Can dust the cuts with Sulfur also..


For the cut end still rooted in the ground: Dust the cuts with Sulfur powder to help the cuts dry / seal over faster ..otherwise they too can rot, esp this time of year when it is getting cooler / wetter.

I myself would just trim off all leaves / flowers, dust the entire top w/ Sulfur, and wrap everything for the winter  ..then do whatever necessary cuts come spring. Too nice of a specimen to gamble with loosing any of it.

[BobStrauss]

I do have a heated grow room I made in my garage where potential cuttings will stay warm and receive light. My biggest concern is with the main in-ground plant and ensuring its survival. 

If I were to prune it now, would dusting it as you mention, plus covering for winter (with plastic  on top to keep cut dry) be the way to go? Or should I definitely hold off until next spring? It’s just going to be a good challenge wrapping that thing we’ll now thay it’s gotten so tall.

 

thanks for the advice!

[John2468]

I’d say to hold it off till next spring.

[Silas_Sancona]

7 hours ago, BobStrauss said:

I do have a heated grow room I made in my garage where potential cuttings will stay warm and receive light. My biggest concern is with the main in-ground plant and ensuring its survival. 

If I were to prune it now, would dusting it as you mention, plus covering for winter (with plastic  on top to keep cut dry) be the way to go? Or should I definitely hold off until next spring? It’s just going to be a good challenge wrapping that thing we’ll now thay it’s gotten so tall.

 

thanks for the advice!

You could " cut, dust, n' wrap " now, though i'd be worried about the cut ends staying too moist ( because the covered portion of the plant will still release some amount of moisture into the surrounding air space ) under the plastic, which could - despite dusting with Sulphur- still lead to rot issues during the time it is covered..  From what i've experienced, and speaking with long time growers whose thoughts i trust, Pachypodium  can be tricky in that when cut, some seem to rot / cuttings rot instead of forming a callus no matter what.. Others seem to harden off / seal their cuts w/ out issue, like a majority of Plumeria cuttings do  after being severed from the " mother " plant. 

Bigger, semi- woody aged material may be easier to root than greener, more succulent -aged material. I know with Plumeria, ..and Desert Rose, really green cuttings tend to rot / shrivel more often than they root successfully, no matter how they are treated while trying to root.

....It is the " Celadine  or Thornton Lemon Drop Plumeria cuttings tend to root easier / aren't much of a challenge to root, vs. say Plumeria X Singapore ...the white one,  or true Red or Purple - flowered cultivars, which can be challenging to root ..or,  they simply don't ..and just rot / shrivel up " kind of situation.. 

They're all Plumeria, but some species / hybridized cultivars can be much more temperamental / fussy than others.

As mentioned, i'd really be inclined to wait until spring to do -any- cutting ..just to be as safe as possible.  Some people can get cuttings to root in winter but i personally have never had success, despite keeping them indoors, on a heating pad, and in a window that gets plenty of southern exposure light / soil mix that is 90% Pumice ..or something similar,  and just an occasional misting so the cuts don't shrivel and dry out. ...and it stays fairly warm most winters here.  A hot / humid greenhouse would be the most ideal route to be more confident the cuttings will root successfully,  this time of year esp.

Again, these are just my thoughts based upon personal experiences... You can always contact the owners at say Aridlands Greenhouse, here in AZ ( Tucson ),  or Tropiflora ..assuming their Succulent guru is still there, Paradise Found,  and / or  Out of Africa Nursery ( also in FL ) to get some additional feedback / insight regarding your questions..  Definitely doesn't hurt to ask around..

[BobStrauss]

I really appreciate everyone’s advice here, and plan to put off any pruning till maybe April of next year. On Sunday I cut back just the leaves, wrapped in frost cloth, wrapped Christmas lights around that, and then wrapped with some wire fencing, covered in burlap. It can get pretty cold at times here and I was hoping the two layers would be enough to get it through to spring again. Let me know if I did anything horrendous.

I’ll revisit this again next spring if all goes well. Much appreciated!

[BobStrauss]

On 10/28/2023 at 3:49 PM, Silas_Sancona said:

You could " cut, dust, n' wrap " now, though i'd be worried about the cut ends staying too moist ( because the covered portion of the plant will still release some amount of moisture into the surrounding air space ) under the plastic, which could - despite dusting with Sulphur- still lead to rot issues during the time it is covered..  From what i've experienced, and speaking with long time growers whose thoughts i trust, Pachypodium  can be tricky in that when cut, some seem to rot / cuttings rot instead of forming a callus no matter what.. Others seem to harden off / seal their cuts w/ out issue, like a majority of Plumeria cuttings do  after being severed from the " mother " plant. 

Bigger, semi- woody aged material may be easier to root than greener, more succulent -aged material. I know with Plumeria, ..and Desert Rose, really green cuttings tend to rot / shrivel more often than they root successfully, no matter how they are treated while trying to root.

....It is the " Celadine  or Thornton Lemon Drop Plumeria cuttings tend to root easier / aren't much of a challenge to root, vs. say Plumeria X Singapore ...the white one,  or true Red or Purple - flowered cultivars, which can be challenging to root ..or,  they simply don't ..and just rot / shrivel up " kind of situation.. 

They're all Plumeria, but some species / hybridized cultivars can be much more temperamental / fussy than others.

As mentioned, i'd really be inclined to wait until spring to do -any- cutting ..just to be as safe as possible.  Some people can get cuttings to root in winter but i personally have never had success, despite keeping them indoors, on a heating pad, and in a window that gets plenty of southern exposure light / soil mix that is 90% Pumice ..or something similar,  and just an occasional misting so the cuts don't shrivel and dry out. ...and it stays fairly warm most winters here.  A hot / humid greenhouse would be the most ideal route to be more confident the cuttings will root successfully,  this time of year esp.

Again, these are just my thoughts based upon personal experiences... You can always contact the owners at say Aridlands Greenhouse, here in AZ ( Tucson ),  or Tropiflora ..assuming their Succulent guru is still there, Paradise Found,  and / or  Out of Africa Nursery ( also in FL ) to get some additional feedback / insight regarding your questions..  Definitely doesn't hurt to ask around..

Gonna bump this thread cause I’ve now made it to spring, and this post in particular. Wondering if this week is the time to finally make a move. Below are images of the forecast, plus how the Madagascar Palm looked as of last week.

I will call all the nurseries/resources you mentioned, but was curious to know of other last thoughts also. Do the cuttings need to dry before attempting to root, for example? Any extra-specific recommendations on rooting medium? I’d like to prune down to below fence level so I won’t have to do this again for at least a few years.

 

[Silas_Sancona]

1 hour ago, BobStrauss said:

Gonna bump this thread cause I’ve now made it to spring, and this post in particular. Wondering if this week is the time to finally make a move. Below are images of the forecast, plus how the Madagascar Palm looked as of last week.

I will call all the nurseries/resources you mentioned, but was curious to know of other last thoughts also. Do the cuttings need to dry before attempting to root, for example? Any extra-specific recommendations on rooting medium? I’d like to prune down to below fence level so I won’t have to do this again for at least a few years.

 

Looks good..  I myself might wait until your nights are consistently above 60F and the tips are starting to push new growth, much like when it is best to root Plumeria cuttings.

As far as what size cuttings?  from the look of the plant in the last shot, cuttings that equal the length of stem above the fence line might be too large ...but that is something i'd consult others on since folks who have more experience rooting them then i do might suggest that length would be ok.

As far as a soil mix? keep it gritty / open / well draining ...Like consisting of 60% Turface MVP / Pumice / small Lava cinder. Very little organics, though Coco - Peat would be fine ( Compounds in Coco Peat / Husk may actually help deter rot / promote rooting ). NO Peat Moss..

Once potted, place the cuttings in a spot that stays warm, and gets bright indirect light / Bright shade.. NO direct sun. Moist  ..but not wet.

I may have mentioned it but, when you do your cutting, dust the cut ends of the in ground plant with Sulfur dust so that they heal over.

You could also dust the ends of the cuttings you'll be attempting to root as well.

Regarding letting them callus over? ..You could, though i can't say how long they might take to ( Callus )  Pachypodium might behave differently than Plumeria in that respect.  Then again, cuttings from some Plumeria cultivars will shrivel no matter what you do, while others can sit for months and will still root once potted up.

Cuttings i'd tried to rescue in the past off some of my Pachys. wouldn't callus so i'd pot them as soon as i'd cut / cleaned them up after removing from the " mother " plant(s). Much smaller than yours will be, so, that could have influenced things too..

If you decide to let them callus, place in a dry, shaded area w/ lots of air movement while they scab over.

..About all i can think about for the moment.