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Posted

I FINALLY got my hands on some banana pups, musa basjoo to be exact. I have absolutely 0 experience with bananas, and havent really gone into much research about them. What do i do now? I have both in a decent size pot, they were growing up in the shade of the parent plants, so they are sitting in shade on the patio. I watered them deeply once potted, as the soil i had to put them in was bone dry. Hopefully these can recover nicely over the winter, and ill have a nice double banana to plant in the yard at some point next Spring. Any specifics on acclimation to sun, or any other details i should know about? Once in ground, fertilizer specifications? Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Palms - Adonidia merillii1 Bismarckia nobilis, 2 Butia odorataBxJ1 BxJxBxS1 BxSChamaerops humilis1 Chambeyronia macrocarpa1 Hyophorbe lagenicaulis1 Hyophorbe verschaffeltiiLivistona chinensis1 Livistona nitida, 1 Phoenix canariensis3 Phoenix roebeleniiRavenea rivularis1 Rhapis excelsa1 Sabal bermudanaSabal palmetto4 Syagrus romanzoffianaTrachycarpus fortunei4 Washingtonia robusta1 Wodyetia bifurcata
Total: 41

Posted

Bananas prefer a fairly rich (but not mucky) soil, I generally add a bit of compost to the hole and mix it up when I plant them.  Bananas in really sandy soil just mope and don't grow well.  You could probably move them into full sun over a period of ~2 weeks, since they probably don't have roots and aren't use to the sun yet.  I use generic 10-10-10 fertilizer for my bananas.  I usually have 1 dripper at 2gph for 30 minutes per day, or about 1 gallon of water per day.  In the Orlando area there's usually enough rain to keep them happy, so the dripper is just to make sure the soil stays moist, and keeps it from drying out during droughts.

  • Like 1
Posted

This is my second year growing Musa basjoo, Meikong (not so)giant, and Ensete ventricosum.  You can't over-water an actively growing banana, and it's even hard to over-fertilize (within the bounds of reason).  
I have mail ordered bananas, and transplanted bananas from under the shade of their mothers, and never had one experience leaf burn.  Bananas are pretty bulletproof.  Aside from losing a couple to the frost last winter, I've only ever killed one by spraying dishsoap down the meristem trying to kill the bugs that were in there - don't do that, they don't like it.  They also take well to transplanting.  If you divide the pups from the mothers, just make sure you carefully pull away some soil first to ensure that you're actually capturing some roots with the pup as that can sometimes be a little tricky.  It sucks digging out a pup only to find that there weren't any roots where you thought they would be. 

  • Like 4
Posted

Bananas are are heavy and greedy feeders,  too much fertilizer of any description wont be enough....pour it on ! Locally ours get 70"to 80" rain over 7 months naturally, then we have to water them heavily for the 5 month dry period. Anecdotally, they love grey water from the household, washing machine and shower/kitchen.. I've only ever killed a banana plant through neglect, not kindness.

  • Like 2
Posted

They are fairly easy to grow provided you give them the 3 things they must have to do well:

1) SUNLIGHT! - Full Sun, they do poorly in shady situations

2) FOOD - Feed the living crap out of them. I use a MG product called tree and shrub once a month during the growing season. Also enrich the surrounding soil with compost and mulch over it.

3) WATER - They want consistently moist soil but don't want to be grown in a bog.

 

Give them these 3 things and they will be huge in no time. 

Mine are in flower right now.

 

IMG_9074.thumb.JPG.4087dd4c67f84afd8037d751879ad231.JPGIMG_9090.thumb.JPG.2e96348cc5f4ca08934e6c91aadb18ea.JPGIMG_9091.thumb.JPG.d26bf34298193637639bc9a0788550f5.JPG

 

  • Like 6
Posted

Ive never looked into composting before, how long does the process take? Would it be ready by spring? I guess there will be plenty of leaves to use when it comes to things of that nature. What would be the best method of doing this and getting the best outcome? Im not sure of the planting location yet, but i will have all winter to figure that out. Water will not be a problem if we have a year like we have had this year. 30" above average for the yearly total so far, average is about 54" for this time of year. Anyways, i will be looking into fertilizers for it, whatever has seemed to work best for yall will probably be what i use. Thanks for all the great information!

Palms - Adonidia merillii1 Bismarckia nobilis, 2 Butia odorataBxJ1 BxJxBxS1 BxSChamaerops humilis1 Chambeyronia macrocarpa1 Hyophorbe lagenicaulis1 Hyophorbe verschaffeltiiLivistona chinensis1 Livistona nitida, 1 Phoenix canariensis3 Phoenix roebeleniiRavenea rivularis1 Rhapis excelsa1 Sabal bermudanaSabal palmetto4 Syagrus romanzoffianaTrachycarpus fortunei4 Washingtonia robusta1 Wodyetia bifurcata
Total: 41

Posted
  On 10/10/2021 at 9:14 PM, JLM said:

Ive never looked into composting before, how long does the process take? Would it be ready by spring? I guess there will be plenty of leaves to use when it comes to things of that nature. What would be the best method of doing this and getting the best outcome? Im not sure of the planting location yet, but i will have all winter to figure that out. Water will not be a problem if we have a year like we have had this year. 30" above average for the yearly total so far, average is about 54" for this time of year. Anyways, i will be looking into fertilizers for it, whatever has seemed to work best for yall will probably be what i use. Thanks for all the great information!

Expand  

Best you can do is read about ways to compost. 

For bananas:

1) Mix bagged compost and manure in the hole when planting with the native soil, and I also use Espomas Plant Tone to enrich the soil at planting.You can get bagged compost and manure at any big-box store typically for anywhere between $2-5 per cubic foot. Plant tone is around $14 for an 8lb bag. 

2) Throw your yard waste that isn't diseased on and around the banana clump (mat). Use grass clipping sparingly - maybe 2 times a year. Old banana leaves should go back down to the ground when you trim them off. I use used coffee grounds as well - though that is something of a hot topic. Basically any clippings from plants, grass, leaves, mulch, etc... 

3) Use a good quality mulch like pine bark nuggets, or cypress. Do not use dyed mulches like the "PREMIUM" brand red, black, or brown bagged mulches available at the garden center. Pick a natural hardwood, pine, or cypress instead. 

4) Begin feeding 1 month after planting with a light application of a good fertilizer similar to what you would use for palms. I typically use MG Tree and Shrub fertilizer (HERE IS THE PRODUCT I AM TALKING ABOUT) once a month or every other month from March - Mid September. Sometimes I use PalmGain instead. They just like food and as much and varied as you can give them. 

5) I also feed every 2 weeks with a water soluble organic fertilizer concoction that is a mixture of the MG Performance organics (11-3-8 The Yellow One), Blackstrap UNSULFURED molasses (I use the gallon of Golden Barrel), and Liquid seaweed extract. This helps build the surrounding soil, increase microfauna populations, draw earthworms in, and feed beneficial fungi. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 10/11/2021 at 1:03 AM, Dartolution said:

Best you can do is read about ways to compost. 

For bananas:

1) Mix bagged compost and manure in the hole when planting with the native soil, and I also use Espomas Plant Tone to enrich the soil at planting.You can get bagged compost and manure at any big-box store typically for anywhere between $2-5 per cubic foot. Plant tone is around $14 for an 8lb bag. 

2) Throw your yard waste that isn't diseased on and around the banana clump (mat). Use grass clipping sparingly - maybe 2 times a year. Old banana leaves should go back down to the ground when you trim them off. I use used coffee grounds as well - though that is something of a hot topic. Basically any clippings from plants, grass, leaves, mulch, etc... 

3) Use a good quality mulch like pine bark nuggets, or cypress. Do not use dyed mulches like the "PREMIUM" brand red, black, or brown bagged mulches available at the garden center. Pick a natural hardwood, pine, or cypress instead. 

4) Begin feeding 1 month after planting with a light application of a good fertilizer similar to what you would use for palms. I typically use MG Tree and Shrub fertilizer (HERE IS THE PRODUCT I AM TALKING ABOUT) once a month or every other month from March - Mid September. Sometimes I use PalmGain instead. They just like food and as much and varied as you can give them. 

5) I also feed every 2 weeks with a water soluble organic fertilizer concoction that is a mixture of the MG Performance organics (11-3-8 The Yellow One), Blackstrap UNSULFURED molasses (I use the gallon of Golden Barrel), and Liquid seaweed extract. This helps build the surrounding soil, increase microfauna populations, draw earthworms in, and feed beneficial fungi. 

 

 

Expand  

This is a lot of amazing info, thanks! Wrote a lot of this down so i dont forget it over the winter lol

  • Like 1

Palms - Adonidia merillii1 Bismarckia nobilis, 2 Butia odorataBxJ1 BxJxBxS1 BxSChamaerops humilis1 Chambeyronia macrocarpa1 Hyophorbe lagenicaulis1 Hyophorbe verschaffeltiiLivistona chinensis1 Livistona nitida, 1 Phoenix canariensis3 Phoenix roebeleniiRavenea rivularis1 Rhapis excelsa1 Sabal bermudanaSabal palmetto4 Syagrus romanzoffianaTrachycarpus fortunei4 Washingtonia robusta1 Wodyetia bifurcata
Total: 41

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

I'm curious what everybody has had for survivability at low temps?  I overwintered once here in Nebraska, freeze line down 32 inches, lows in the -20s and it still sprouted back in the spring.  (though, quite stunted to be honest)  

Does anybody have any best practices for overwintering Basjoo in the ground?

"Ph'nglui mglw'napalma Funkthulhu R'Lincolnea wgah'palm fhtagn"
"In his house at Lincoln, dread Funkthulhu plants palm trees."

Posted

negative 20's? I am so glad I have NEVER experienced anything near that, nor would I want to! YIKES!

Here, they don't require protection. Below about 30F and the leaves get fried but the psedostems are fine through teens. I am in the southeast/deep south zone 8a so its  not common for us to get temps below around 15-20. It happens, but only once every 5-10 years, and when it does it is typically short lived. We do not have soil freezes. 

I have heard of people using chicken wire, leaves from the yard and pine straw, and creating a cage around the clump while covering it with a black tarp. 

Honestly, if they came back from negative 20F... I don't see the point in going through all that work unless you just want to see if you can get one to flower for the fun of it. 

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Its March now, which means Spring is nearing and planting season will begin soon. When should i plant these? Last year we had frost as late as April 2nd, but i have never really seen them be affected by frost too bad. I thought about planting today, however im watching for a freeze potential next weekend. I could always protect it if needed. Thoughts? They are pups, so they are pretty small right now.

Palms - Adonidia merillii1 Bismarckia nobilis, 2 Butia odorataBxJ1 BxJxBxS1 BxSChamaerops humilis1 Chambeyronia macrocarpa1 Hyophorbe lagenicaulis1 Hyophorbe verschaffeltiiLivistona chinensis1 Livistona nitida, 1 Phoenix canariensis3 Phoenix roebeleniiRavenea rivularis1 Rhapis excelsa1 Sabal bermudanaSabal palmetto4 Syagrus romanzoffianaTrachycarpus fortunei4 Washingtonia robusta1 Wodyetia bifurcata
Total: 41

Posted (edited)

You better wait till after the frost date of about April 5th.  You can take the pots outside and acclimate them. 

Edited by Allen
  • Like 1

YouTube https://www.youtube.com/@tntropics - 60+ In-ground 7A palms - (Sabal) minor(8 large + 27 seedling size, 3 dwarf),  brazoria(1) , birmingham(3), louisiana(4), palmetto (1),  (Trachycarpus) fortunei(7+), wagnerianus(2+),  Rhapidophyllum hystrix(7),  Blue Butia odorata (1), Serenoa repens (1) +Tons of tropical plants.  Recent Yearly Lows 4F, -6F, -1F, 12F, 11F, 18F, 16F, 3F, 3F, 6F, 3F, 1F, 16F, 17F, 6F, 8F

 

Posted
  On 3/5/2022 at 11:33 PM, Allen said:

You better wait till after the frost date of about April 5th.  You can take the pots outside and acclimate them. 

Expand  

They have been outside for probably a week or two now. They have been getting a taste of 80F temps for the past couple of days, they are really responding to it. Been keeping them watered too, so they should begin to really speed up soon.

Palms - Adonidia merillii1 Bismarckia nobilis, 2 Butia odorataBxJ1 BxJxBxS1 BxSChamaerops humilis1 Chambeyronia macrocarpa1 Hyophorbe lagenicaulis1 Hyophorbe verschaffeltiiLivistona chinensis1 Livistona nitida, 1 Phoenix canariensis3 Phoenix roebeleniiRavenea rivularis1 Rhapis excelsa1 Sabal bermudanaSabal palmetto4 Syagrus romanzoffianaTrachycarpus fortunei4 Washingtonia robusta1 Wodyetia bifurcata
Total: 41

Posted

Keep them in pots until the risk of frost is over.  If it's a hard frost it will zap the leaves and then they'll take extra time to recover, so a little patience will go a long way.

Mine grow throughout the winter, but whenever we get a hard frost the new tender growth gets zapped.  Another 3 weeks and they'll be actively growing for me.  These are such easy plants, the only issue with them is the root ball gets massive within a few years.  I can't get a shovel through it to break off the dead stems that have flowered.  Be careful where you plant them because they are hard to get rid of.

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 3/7/2022 at 9:14 PM, Chester B said:

Keep them in pots until the risk of frost is over.  If it's a hard frost it will zap the leaves and then they'll take extra time to recover, so a little patience will go a long way.

Mine grow throughout the winter, but whenever we get a hard frost the new tender growth gets zapped.  Another 3 weeks and they'll be actively growing for me.  These are such easy plants, the only issue with them is the root ball gets massive within a few years.  I can't get a shovel through it to break off the dead stems that have flowered.  Be careful where you plant them because they are hard to get rid of.

Expand  

Good to know about the roots, will consider that when looking for a place to plant. I have decided against planting for now. Our average last freeze is around late Feb, but here we are headed into the mid to low 20's tonight. Insanity. Mobile, AL is looking to possibly break a record low temperature tonight.

Palms - Adonidia merillii1 Bismarckia nobilis, 2 Butia odorataBxJ1 BxJxBxS1 BxSChamaerops humilis1 Chambeyronia macrocarpa1 Hyophorbe lagenicaulis1 Hyophorbe verschaffeltiiLivistona chinensis1 Livistona nitida, 1 Phoenix canariensis3 Phoenix roebeleniiRavenea rivularis1 Rhapis excelsa1 Sabal bermudanaSabal palmetto4 Syagrus romanzoffianaTrachycarpus fortunei4 Washingtonia robusta1 Wodyetia bifurcata
Total: 41

Posted
  On 3/7/2022 at 9:14 PM, Chester B said:

Keep them in pots until the risk of frost is over.  If it's a hard frost it will zap the leaves and then they'll take extra time to recover, so a little patience will go a long way.

Mine grow throughout the winter, but whenever we get a hard frost the new tender growth gets zapped.  Another 3 weeks and they'll be actively growing for me.  These are such easy plants, the only issue with them is the root ball gets massive within a few years.  I can't get a shovel through it to break off the dead stems that have flowered.  Be careful where you plant them because they are hard to get rid of.

Expand  

Haven't you experienced a low of like 18F this winter though? I know you've also had quite a bit of snow and sub-freezing days too. I thought Musa Basjoo stems get burnt back to ground level by anything below about 22F, or at even higher temperatures during prolonged freezes and wet-cold events?

I've lost smallish ones before from a low of 25F combined with some prolonged wet-cold. Smallish ones definitely won't stand a chance in my location unprotected. I have also lost medium sized ones with decent trunks after a low of 20F and back to back radiation frosts, despite each day recovering above freezing. 

I'm assuming you must have the stems of your Musa Basjoo protected over winter, or at least this winter just gone, since it was quite a bad one for you guys? Otherwise the trunks would surely be toast and they would have to re-sprout from ground level again after the winter you have just had.

The rhizome of Musa Basjoo is hardy down to 10F but the trunks aren't going to take anything colder than 20F or any prolonged freezes with sub-freezing days.

  • Like 1

Dry-summer Oceanic / Warm summer Med (Csb) - 9a

Average annual precipitation - 18.7 inches : Average annual sunshine hours - 1725

Posted
  On 3/13/2022 at 9:31 PM, UK_Palms said:

Haven't you experienced a low of like 18F this winter though? I know you've also had quite a bit of snow and sub-freezing days too. I thought Musa Basjoo stems get burnt back to ground level by anything below about 22F, or at even higher temperatures during prolonged freezes and wet-cold events?

I've lost smallish ones before from a low of 25F combined with some prolonged wet-cold. Smallish ones definitely won't stand a chance in my location unprotected. I have also lost medium sized ones with decent trunks after a low of 20F and back to back radiation frosts, despite each day recovering above freezing. 

I'm assuming you must have the stems of your Musa Basjoo protected over winter, or at least this winter just gone, since it was quite a bad one for you guys? Otherwise the trunks would surely be toast and they would have to re-sprout from ground level again after the winter you have just had.

The rhizome of Musa Basjoo is hardy down to 10F but the trunks aren't going to take anything colder than 20F or any prolonged freezes with sub-freezing days.

Expand  

I never protect my basjoos, too many and not worth my time.  Plus they're pretty huge some have 10'+ of pseudostem and thicker than my thighs.

Yes I did have a bad winter for my location.  One day below freezing (max 36 hours consecutively) I think we topped out at 30F/-1C that day.  One night we were at 24F/ -4.5C for at least 10 hours.  Further north of me up into Washington and BC were the areas that got hit bad, I'm south enough that we seem to get the real arctic air.  I've seen 20F only once, one night back in Jan 2017.

Smaller stems died back which normally happens, but anything 5 or 6 foot (or taller)  did fine which is pretty typical for me.  

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

These things will be huge by the end of July...

Growth rate is about 2+ leaves per week.

  • Like 2

Palms - Adonidia merillii1 Bismarckia nobilis, 2 Butia odorataBxJ1 BxJxBxS1 BxSChamaerops humilis1 Chambeyronia macrocarpa1 Hyophorbe lagenicaulis1 Hyophorbe verschaffeltiiLivistona chinensis1 Livistona nitida, 1 Phoenix canariensis3 Phoenix roebeleniiRavenea rivularis1 Rhapis excelsa1 Sabal bermudanaSabal palmetto4 Syagrus romanzoffianaTrachycarpus fortunei4 Washingtonia robusta1 Wodyetia bifurcata
Total: 41

Posted

I don't have a musa basjoo but I swear I don't know how deep orinoco roots go and how deep to dig and how I'm gonna fill a banana bed with so much organic material and soil to make sure the sand contents are low because I got nothing but sand all over the place 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

These plants are about 3 ft tall now, its almost fertilizer time.

  • Like 2

Palms - Adonidia merillii1 Bismarckia nobilis, 2 Butia odorataBxJ1 BxJxBxS1 BxSChamaerops humilis1 Chambeyronia macrocarpa1 Hyophorbe lagenicaulis1 Hyophorbe verschaffeltiiLivistona chinensis1 Livistona nitida, 1 Phoenix canariensis3 Phoenix roebeleniiRavenea rivularis1 Rhapis excelsa1 Sabal bermudanaSabal palmetto4 Syagrus romanzoffianaTrachycarpus fortunei4 Washingtonia robusta1 Wodyetia bifurcata
Total: 41

Posted

I have the blue Java bananas. They receive 1-2 hours morning shade. Full soon after. I put down 6-6-6 Sunni Land granulars. I have also grown the dwarf mahoi before but stopped due to it dying to the ground in 20’s F.
 

A huge factor that I’ve noticed is to remove competing weeds/grass. These roots do not like competition and lose more often than win. I’ve noticed this over the years when splitting pups. Keeping the surrounding soil free has greatly expedited growth.

  • 7 months later...
Posted

My banana inventory has expanded since this post was made. My basjoos are recovering from their first winter in ground. One has already started growing again, the other is being stubborn. 

I have added a "Super" Dwarf Cavendish as of last summer. It survived the winter in ground with protection. 

Last week i bought a Dwarf Cavendish, which will probably find a home in the backyard.

Today i managed to get my hands on a Blue Java, which will also probably go in the backyard. I am excited about this growing season as i have several palms to go in the ground as well!

  • Like 3

Palms - Adonidia merillii1 Bismarckia nobilis, 2 Butia odorataBxJ1 BxJxBxS1 BxSChamaerops humilis1 Chambeyronia macrocarpa1 Hyophorbe lagenicaulis1 Hyophorbe verschaffeltiiLivistona chinensis1 Livistona nitida, 1 Phoenix canariensis3 Phoenix roebeleniiRavenea rivularis1 Rhapis excelsa1 Sabal bermudanaSabal palmetto4 Syagrus romanzoffianaTrachycarpus fortunei4 Washingtonia robusta1 Wodyetia bifurcata
Total: 41

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Last year I've planted two Musa Basjoo in spring.  Two months later they turned into mush.  I want to point out they were located between a fence and house exterior wall on the southside.  No shade , nothing just pure sun . I watered them every day on a 100 degree day. What could cause the death of my banana plants ? Could be heat reflection from the exterior wall ? I planted them about a foot away from the wall.  I'd like to give it try again but this time away from the house.  Any comment and help is appreciated.  

Posted
  On 8/14/2024 at 2:23 PM, MarcusH said:

Last year I've planted two Musa Basjoo in spring.  Two months later they turned into mush.  I want to point out they were located between a fence and house exterior wall on the southside.  No shade , nothing just pure sun . I watered them every day on a 100 degree day. What could cause the death of my banana plants ? Could be heat reflection from the exterior wall ? I planted them about a foot away from the wall.  I'd like to give it try again but this time away from the house.  Any comment and help is appreciated.  

Expand  

Plant away from structures for sure. Go to any big box garden center and buy some Dr Earth fruit tree fert and MG flowering tree & shrub fert. Mix the Dr Earth into the planting hole, then add some more to the soil surface once you’ve back filled then water in well. Probably about a month or so later fertilize with the MG fert and alternate those two fertilizers monthly. Water every couple of days. 
 

Hopefully this works out for you! I myself have actually not had the greatest luck with Basjoo either, but they’re doing better this year. So far my most successful banana has been blue java, which has now grown into a mini thicket.

  • Upvote 1

Palms - Adonidia merillii1 Bismarckia nobilis, 2 Butia odorataBxJ1 BxJxBxS1 BxSChamaerops humilis1 Chambeyronia macrocarpa1 Hyophorbe lagenicaulis1 Hyophorbe verschaffeltiiLivistona chinensis1 Livistona nitida, 1 Phoenix canariensis3 Phoenix roebeleniiRavenea rivularis1 Rhapis excelsa1 Sabal bermudanaSabal palmetto4 Syagrus romanzoffianaTrachycarpus fortunei4 Washingtonia robusta1 Wodyetia bifurcata
Total: 41

Posted
  On 8/14/2024 at 2:23 PM, MarcusH said:

Last year I've planted two Musa Basjoo in spring.  Two months later they turned into mush.  I want to point out they were located between a fence and house exterior wall on the southside.  No shade , nothing just pure sun . I watered them every day on a 100 degree day. What could cause the death of my banana plants ? Could be heat reflection from the exterior wall ? I planted them about a foot away from the wall.  I'd like to give it try again but this time away from the house.  Any comment and help is appreciated.  

Expand  

Definitely not from just heat.  Too hot and too dry the leaves will burn to a crisp and they will barely grow.  The fact that they turned to mush makes me think this might have been a combo of heat, poorly draining soil and overwatering.    The first time I grew a banana it was in a pot in Miracle grow potting soil and I had it outside for summer.  I watered it every day it pretty much did what you described.  In Oregon I had ones that were in too dry a spot and all they did was burn and barely move, but they managed to barely stay alive.

  • Upvote 1
Posted
  On 8/16/2024 at 3:12 PM, Chester B said:

Definitely not from just heat.  Too hot and too dry the leaves will burn to a crisp and they will barely grow.  The fact that they turned to mush makes me think this might have been a combo of heat, poorly draining soil and overwatering.    The first time I grew a banana it was in a pot in Miracle grow potting soil and I had it outside for summer.  I watered it every day it pretty much did what you described.  In Oregon I had ones that were in too dry a spot and all they did was burn and barely move, but they managed to barely stay alive.

Expand  

I agree with you to all of the things you're pointing out. I do see a lot of decent looking Musa Basjoo plants planted all over SA. Did they adapt to the heat ? I'm not sure.  I want to try it again . I've read on here that some people had issues growing MB and some say it was easy pie.  

Posted
  On 8/15/2024 at 1:24 AM, JLM said:

Plant away from structures for sure. Go to any big box garden center and buy some Dr Earth fruit tree fert and MG flowering tree & shrub fert. Mix the Dr Earth into the planting hole, then add some more to the soil surface once you’ve back filled then water in well. Probably about a month or so later fertilize with the MG fert and alternate those two fertilizers monthly. Water every couple of days. 
 

Hopefully this works out for you! I myself have actually not had the greatest luck with Basjoo either, but they’re doing better this year. So far my most successful banana has been blue java, which has now grown into a mini thicket.

Expand  

Thank you I will follow your advice and hopefully I will be successful in growing MB . Do you think planting in fall where temperatures will be still in the 80s is a good idea or should I wait until next year after the last freeze ? 

Posted
  On 8/22/2024 at 4:36 PM, MarcusH said:

I agree with you to all of the things you're pointing out. I do see a lot of decent looking Musa Basjoo plants planted all over SA. Did they adapt to the heat ? I'm not sure.  I want to try it again . I've read on here that some people had issues growing MB and some say it was easy pie.  

Expand  

I would try a spot with some afternoon shade first.  If you have success then you can move pups around as desired.

So far I have Dwarf Orinoco, Dwarf Namwah and Blue Java in the ground.  All are taking full sun but I planted them in spring so they've had time to adjust.  What I can say is that the ones in the hottest spots are growing slower.

I recently picked up some clearance Blue java and Ensete maurellii at HEB for $3.24 each and they are definitely struggling to adapt to my yard.  I put them into bigger pots with a well draining mix as they were grown in what looks to be mostly peat.  With that soil they are either too wet, or it dries out and it's difficult to rewet. 

I'm not growing basjoo here.   To me. most of the bananas look the same and I'd rather have ones that have the possibility to provide me with fruit.  You should check out your local HEB, they may have some.  Don't go for the cavendish varieties, they are less cold tolerant.

Posted

Ensete doesn't grow in Houston, it's too hot. you'll find out 😝 

I don't why anyone would grow basjoo in southern zone 8 or above. What a waste of time and resources imo. Just grow Orinoco which is completely hardy, more vigorous and may even give you tasty fruit after a very mild winter in zone 8b. Orinoco is also the old heirloom banana that you see everywhere in San Antonio (not basjoo). Basjoo is a relatively new thing and doesn't need to be popularized at all imo 

  • Like 1

Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

Posted
  On 8/22/2024 at 5:36 PM, Xenon said:

Ensete doesn't grow in Houston, it's too hot. you'll find out 😝 

I don't why anyone would grow basjoo in southern zone 8 or above. What a waste of time and resources imo. Just grow Orinoco which is completely hardy, more vigorous and may even give you tasty fruit after a very mild winter in zone 8b. Orinoco is also the old heirloom banana that you see everywhere in San Antonio (not basjoo). Basjoo is a relatively new thing and doesn't need to be popularized at all imo 

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I know you said that about Ensete, but I'm going to try.  Obviously they can't tolerate frost so would be lifted in winter and dry stored like in most places.  I have seen some Ensetes around, so for 3 bucks I'm willing to try.  I'm thinking they really need some shade.

I see people on Marketplace and the like selling bananas all the time, but if I don't know what they are I'm not buying them.  Do you think they are mostly Orinoco?

I also have an Apple banana which is the one I was most after, but its still in a pot awaiting a spot in the garden.

Posted
  On 8/22/2024 at 6:41 PM, Chester B said:

I know you said that about Ensete, but I'm going to try.  Obviously they can't tolerate frost so would be lifted in winter and dry stored like in most places.  I have seen some Ensetes around, so for 3 bucks I'm willing to try.  I'm thinking they really need some shade.

I see people on Marketplace and the like selling bananas all the time, but if I don't know what they are I'm not buying them.  Do you think they are mostly Orinoco?

I also have an Apple banana which is the one I was most after, but its still in a pot awaiting a spot in the garden.

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Most of the marketplace stuff is Orinoco/"burro" en español or Namwa aka fake ice cream which has flooded the market in the last decade or so mostly thanks to HEB. Very very few people have the true "blue Java" ice cream, you have to look high and low to get a pup from a collector that has the real deal. The fake ice cream/Namwa is tissue cultured en masse. 

You always see the Ensete as a patio plants for a few months and then they magically disappear. Same with the Cordyline australis. Same thing in Florida, constantly sold as pretty red banana leaf plant but you never ever see one that's "long-term".

I don't see why Ensete wouldn't be bud hardy in a typical winter here, I was under the impression that it was a fair bit more bud hardy than many bananas which have no problem surviving an average winter. Honestly, it probably likes winter here more than summer...dry storage sounds way overkill. But really it's a highland plant better suited for coastal California...not the deep south with 80+ degree nights. 

  • Like 1

Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

Posted
  On 8/22/2024 at 7:11 PM, Xenon said:

Most of the marketplace stuff is Orinoco/"burro" en español or Namwa aka fake ice cream which has flooded the market in the last decade or so mostly thanks to HEB. Very very few people have the true "blue Java" ice cream, you have to look high and low to get a pup from a collector that has the real deal. The fake ice cream/Namwa is tissue cultured en masse. 

You always see the Ensete as a patio plants for a few months and then they magically disappear. Same with the Cordyline australis. Same thing in Florida, constantly sold as pretty red banana leaf plant but you never ever see one that's "long-term".

I don't see why Ensete wouldn't be bud hardy in a typical winter here, I was under the impression that it was a fair bit more bud hardy than many bananas which have no problem surviving an average winter. Honestly, it probably likes winter here more than summer...dry storage sounds way overkill. But really it's a highland plant better suited for coastal California...not the deep south with 80+ degree nights. 

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I ordered dwarf namwah and dwarf orinoco from a banana grower in Florida.  The apple came from a local collector, and one Blue java/ice cream I bought from a local person and picked the other up at HEB.  What I can say is that the Blue java look quite different than Namwah and Orinoco.   I would have no issues telling the Blue Java apart in a blind test.  However, Namwah and Orinoco look identical to me so far.

Ensetes aren't particularly hardy.  Any frost will kill the fronds and any freezing will kill them outright.  It's best for frost free areas, more of a zone 10 plant.  If I can get them to survive I may consider protecting in place for the few nights per year.

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 8/22/2024 at 10:30 PM, Chester B said:

I ordered dwarf namwah and dwarf orinoco from a banana grower in Florida.  The apple came from a local collector, and one Blue java/ice cream I bought from a local person and picked the other up at HEB.  What I can say is that the Blue java look quite different than Namwah and Orinoco.   I would have no issues telling the Blue Java apart in a blind test.  However, Namwah and Orinoco look identical to me so far.

Ensetes aren't particularly hardy.  Any frost will kill the fronds and any freezing will kill them outright.  It's best for frost free areas, more of a zone 10 plant.  If I can get them to survive I may consider protecting in place for the few nights per year.

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Guess we'll see next year if you get the electric blue fruit or the dull blue fruit. I'm sure they both taste great, many people say Namwa actually tastes better LOL

electricblue.jpg.5c75b063c4eb21ad4bd203a853252a75.jpg


I find it hard to believe that Ensete is somehow much tender than standard banana leaves or similar things. Even Raveneala isn't that tender here and Strelitzia nicolai is significantly more leaf hardy (to around 26Fish with canopy). It's cheap enough that I would just test it out 😜.  Maybe get another one for science hahaha

Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

Posted
  On 8/22/2024 at 10:55 PM, Xenon said:

Guess we'll see next year if you get the electric blue fruit or the dull blue fruit. I'm sure they both taste great, many people say Namwa actually tastes better LOL

electricblue.jpg.5c75b063c4eb21ad4bd203a853252a75.jpg


I find it hard to believe that Ensete is somehow much tender than standard banana leaves or similar things. Even Raveneala isn't that tender here and Strelitzia nicolai is significantly more leaf hardy (to around 26Fish with canopy). It's cheap enough that I would just test it out 😜.  Maybe get another one for science hahaha

Expand  

I've read and watched a lot of videos on bananas and taste testing.  I've yet to see a bright blue banana from the blue java.  Most people say they have a blue sheen to them.  Taste is totally subjective, I'm not a huge banana lover and when I do eat them I like them more green with a good tang.  So the Apple sounds like it's more my taste.

As far as the Ensetes, they are wimps.  I actually can't think of a place aside from habitat where people are able to grow them outside all year.  Like you have mentioned they don't seem to love the heat, but really want a frost free area.  Extreme Southern Oregon coast might be one of the few spots they would do well.  I'm still going to try but they are telling me they need shade.  I've been trying to get them used to the sun but they don't like it, whereas the blue java I bought from them has already adjusted.  They also seem to be a favorite of pests, one is getting munched on and all three have mealy bugs.

I have S reginae but its been sulking all year, even though it gets late afternoon and evening shade.  I just don't have any canopy so I'm very limited as to what I can grow.  All the palms I have planted aside from Trachycarpus are doing very well now.  

Posted
  On 8/23/2024 at 2:08 PM, Chester B said:

 

I have S reginae but its been sulking all year, even though it gets late afternoon and evening shade.  I just don't have any canopy so I'm very limited as to what I can grow.  All the palms I have planted aside from Trachycarpus are doing very well now.  

Expand  

Yeah that's 'cus everyone has Namwa and not the real blue Java hahaha. The photo above is from Hawaii and shows the side by side color difference

Strelitzia reginae wants full 110% blazing sun, zero shade. There's a reason you see it thriving in Houston parking lot Islands LOL. You won't get any flowers in shade either. It's pretty much a bulletproof plant and rebounds from all cold nuclear level and all. The foliage is actually good into the low 20s. 

Strelitzia nicolai is more tolerant of shade but it also at its best in full sun or at least half day sun. Also bulletproof as an occasional dieback perennial 

Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

Posted

The reginae has been burning for me and slowly growing.   Hopefully next year it takes off.  I noticed HGC has them under shade cloth and not out in the lot with the other plants.

Posted
  On 8/23/2024 at 4:13 PM, Chester B said:

The reginae has been burning for me and slowly growing.   Hopefully next year it takes off.  I noticed HGC has them under shade cloth and not out in the lot with the other plants.

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Love HGC for their end of season sales and absolutely nothing else haha. It's definitely not a shade plant, needs to be acclimated if it's been shade grown/tortured though. I heard 70% off is coming in October....

  • Like 1

Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

Posted
  On 8/22/2024 at 5:36 PM, Xenon said:

Ensete doesn't grow in Houston, it's too hot. you'll find out 😝 

I don't why anyone would grow basjoo in southern zone 8 or above. What a waste of time and resources imo. Just grow Orinoco which is completely hardy, more vigorous and may even give you tasty fruit after a very mild winter in zone 8b. Orinoco is also the old heirloom banana that you see everywhere in San Antonio (not basjoo). Basjoo is a relatively new thing and doesn't need to be popularized at all imo 

Expand  

Worst case, dig it up and lay it down in a crawlspace or basement. Yes, in z8b, you can fool these into giving fruit.

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