recovery 0001 - Cold damaged palm care

[TexasPalmPeople]

Help, please: what is the recommended application mix-ratio for Captan 50WP for bud-drench, trunk and trunk-base-root treatment for post-frost-damage/cool-wet-spring fungus avoidance?

I have been told to alternate two treatments of copper and Captan. The Copper (SouthernAg liquid concentrate) has the mix rate, but the Captan 50WP (AgriStar) does not. Many forums recommend the Captan for prophylactic fungus treatment for the Mexican Fan Palm, but none of the manufacturers* have a mix rate on the label for palms - only for fruit and ornamentals. Two local palm sellers recommended the minimum mix ratio on the label.

Also: Any position on the efficacy of hydrogen peroxide? Bandied about as a good bacterial treatment for the bud.

Thanks so much for your time and consideration, folks.

(* also checked SouthernAg, Bonide, Arysta)

[TexasColdHardyPalms]

I use 9:1 ratio (water to concentrate) with the Copper and Daconil.  I only use the powdered Captan, but would think to mix it like Daconil. I stay away from Peroxide.

[smatofu]

Hi,

How to take care of a cold damaged dormant palm (no spear pull, no growth, no green spear).

Questions to advance forum members.

1. Water the palm or not?

 

2. Cover the top when raining or not?

 

3. Cover the palm at night with a blanket to make it warm and potentially to promote growth?

 

4. Fertilize?

 

5. Use copper, hydrogen peroxide, or both? 

 

For the beginners:

- if you cover then use something breathable, like a paper bag. Never plastic because you may cook your palm,

- if you fertilize, don't fertilize too much and too close to the trunk. 

 

Thank you in advance!

 

Stan

 

 

 

 

Edited March 26, 2021 by smatofu

[smatofu]

Answer to Q#1 is here:

the instructions of the former IPS president or Board Member

[He also said to make sure you keep the stressed palms hydrated, not over watered, but the soil moist but not saturated. ]

In the DFW, TX area, we get a good rain once a week in the spring, and this keeps the soil well moist. So for me, no watering. 

[PTRocky]

I was able to secure 12% Hydrogen peroxide on the internet (called FOOD GRADE peroxide).  On  01-17 and 01-20 mid-upper teens in Montgomery, AL there seems to be a latent aftermath of crown rot on 5 Trachys.  I thought the 12% peroxide would have a stronger anti-fungal effect but I have not used it yet.  Does anyone have experience utilising 12% hydrogen peroxide on palm crown fungus, or should it be diluted to 6% or 3% before drenching the Trachys' crowns?

Are Trachycarpus palms slow to respond to this treatment?  Nothing seems to have occurred positively yet.  I read in the internet that this recovery process could take 6-7 months (or at least until the nights are consistently over 55 F.)

Any opinions on Trachycarpus' freeze recovery with usage of hydrogen peroxide 3, 6-7, or 12%?

 

[Allen]

Here is my video.  I have no experience with anything except regular pharmacy bought peroxide 3%

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3EwU4F-Gotw

 

[SeanK]

Are these potted palms? In-Ground Trachycarpus should have no problem in the mid-teens °F. By now, you should see recovery even on small Trachies.

[PTRocky]

All but the largest and tallest Trachys have recovered.  The six ft trunked one still hasn’t regrown its top.  It didn’t lose its top in the winter.  Its newest 8-10 top leaves grayed up and dried out in October, last summer.  18 fronds  below the top are still perfect.  It seems as though roots are forming about 8” up from the ground but still no new growth.

It had done beautifully for three years.  The only other thing that could have occurred was a lightning strike but there was no oozing sap or foul odour, Sean.  It is still ornamentally viable so I didn’t want to remove it.  

You think I should just leave it in place to see if this summer might bring new growth?

I enclosed a photo of a recovered Trachy and my mystery Trachycarpus for comparisons! 

[Enar]

I'm in Prattville, AL right above Montgomery and I had a Trachycarpus Fortunei with crown rot and no new growth that I got advised to treat with over the counter 3% peroxide non-diluted daily for 2 weeks and it brought mine back! After about a week I could see new green growth and 2 weeks in it was good to go! New fronds pushing out.

[PTRocky]

Yes, I guess this one is definitely dead as it still doesn’t show anything up top. All the short Trachys DID change come back but the oldest and most established one did not.  I will need to replace it, I guess.

Where did you purchase your palms as I want to get one with a couple of feet of trunk on it as the one it will replace has about four ft. of clear trunk? 
 

What I don’t understand is why the palms are getting the fungus as it wasn’t tremendously cold this past winter.  They seemed to get the fungus in mid spring, not the winter.

 

 

[SeanK]

On 6/14/2024 at 9:31 PM, PTRocky said:

All but the largest and tallest Trachys have recovered.  The six ft trunked one still hasn’t regrown its top.  It didn’t lose its top in the winter.  Its newest 8-10 top leaves grayed up and dried out in October, last summer.  18 fronds  below the top are still perfect.  It seems as though roots are forming about 8” up from the ground but still no new growth.

It had done beautifully for three years.  The only other thing that could have occurred was a lightning strike but there was no oozing sap or foul odour, Sean.  It is still ornamentally viable so I didn’t want to remove it.  

You think I should just leave it in place to see if this summer might bring new growth?

I enclosed a photo of a recovered Trachy and my mystery Trachycarpus for comparisons! 

Phytophthora? Died from the inside-out late last year. Damage likely from Dec 2022.

At this point, all you can do is trunk cut and try to find live tissue to treat. First, prepare a bucket with Clorox solution as you don't want the tools infecting other plants.

[PTRocky]

Well, well that prospect I never even considered, Sean.  Still no new growth from the top so “surgery” might be in order.  This is distressing news 😟

I wonder if this was preventable?  There were no clues until the decline was in progress.  If phytophora chooses apparently healthy palms (to the eyes anyway,) in this region, one wonders if palm care here is just a bit too demanding and not as enjoyable?  It is relatively sad seeing a trachy put on three years of wonderfully lush growth, only to sicken so unexpectedly, Sean. 🥲

We will see!!  

 

 

 

 

Edited July 1, 2024 by PTRocky

[Moose]

On 7/1/2024 at 12:29 PM, PTRocky said:

Well, well that prospect I never even considered, Sean.  Still no new growth from the top so “surgery” might be in order.  This is distressing news 😟

I wonder if this was preventable?  There were no clues until the decline was in progress.  If phytophora chooses apparently healthy palms (to the eyes anyway,) in this region, one wonders if palm care here is just a bit too demanding and not as enjoyable?  It is relatively sad seeing a trachy put on three years of wonderfully lush growth, only to sicken so unexpectedly, Sean. 🥲

We will see!!  

 

 

 

 

Bring in the Palm Doctor 😷

[PTRocky]

He’s retired! 🥹

[Enar]

On 6/24/2024 at 7:12 PM, PTRocky said:

Yes, I guess this one is definitely dead as it still doesn’t show anything up top. All the short Trachys DID change come back but the oldest and most established one did not.  I will need to replace it, I guess.

Where did you purchase your palms as I want to get one with a couple of feet of trunk on it as the one it will replace has about four ft. of clear trunk? 
 

What I don’t understand is why the palms are getting the fungus as it wasn’t tremendously cold this past winter.  They seemed to get the fungus in mid spring, not the winter.

 

 

I did not purchase this one myself, but there are some full size Trachycarpus available at Russel Do-It-Yourself Center in Prattville. I think the price is roughly 2-300/each. You can't miss them if you come in on Main street. Across from Chick-fil-a. I think the winter damage is what allows the fungus to invade your plant in the spring. The damage leads to infection. Winter damage usually shows itself in spring anyway. Furthermore, try and avoid fertilizer too late in the year, you don't want new growth getting exposed to the winter elements. Hope you can find a replacement. If you want a small replacement PM me and I can get you a small Trachycarpus (seedling with few leaves).

[PTRocky]

I did see the Trachys in Prattville last week.  Great tip.  I never see any 7-9’ Sabals like I saw everywhere in South Florida.  I think I will go with a Sabal or two, instead of a Trachy in that rear, right corner in the yard as that spot needs a bit of “drama” when it is lit at light.  Any ideas who might be able to supply mature Sabal palms in the River Region?  Thanks, Enar!   Paul

Edited July 21, 2024 by PTRocky
Spelling error

[SeanK]

On 7/21/2024 at 4:36 PM, PTRocky said:

I did see the Trachys in Prattville last week.  Great tip.  I never see any 7-9’ Sabals like I saw everywhere in South Florida.  I think I will go with a Sabal or two, instead of a Trachy in that rear, right corner in the yard as that spot needs a bit of “drama” when it is lit at light.  Any ideas who might be able to supply mature Sabal palms in the River Region?  Thanks, Enar!   Paul

I would search for palm nurseries around Pensacola.

[PTRocky]

You think nothing in Alabama, for large Sabals?  

[SeanK]

14 hours ago, PTRocky said:

You think nothing in Alabama, for large Sabals?  

Just a different mindset. If you found them, you'd pay double. Then, if you have to pay for the install . . . . . . 

.

You'd probably have to go all the way to Mobile, Gulf Shores area. 

[PTRocky]

Thanks, Sean.  😀