I Give Up.... Asian Cycad Scale has Won

[Really full garden]

After years of constant spraying ,drenching and power washing I have decided to eliminate all my Cycas sp. from my garden.

I had three Cycas revoluta with 1m of trunk and 14 Cycas circinalis with single and multiple trunks ranging from 1m to 3m of trunk.They were spectacular at one time.

Some will be replaced with Encephalartos sp.,more palms and flowering plants (dwarf bouganvilleas, ixoras etc.)

This process will take about three weeks.The first five were removed yesterday.

[John Case]

Sad......but encephs can be spectacular as well!

[Pedro 65]

After years of constant spraying ,drenching and power washing I have decided to eliminate all my Cycas sp. from my garden.

I had three Cycas revoluta with 1m of trunk and 14 Cycas circinalis with single and multiple trunks ranging from 1m to 3m of trunk.They were spectacular at one time.

Some will be replaced with Encephalartos sp.,more palms and flowering plants (dwarf bouganvilleas, ixoras etc.)

This process will take about three weeks.The first five were removed yesterday.

Scott, what about a few large Dioons , or you not into them ?

Pete

[Really full garden]

Sad......but encephs can be spectacular as well!

Not so sad. I just got tired of constantly treating them.Almost every garden here at the beach has at least one C.revoluta or circinalis so my plants were always being reinfected.

All my plants are going to an ICU (intensive cycad unit)for Detox/rehab.In a few months they will be going to landscape a mega mansion being built in a very arid region of Guatemala.This new house is on a large plantation in the middle of nowhere so it is doubtful they will ever be infected again.

[Really full garden]

After years of constant spraying ,drenching and power washing I have decided to eliminate all my Cycas sp. from my garden.

I had three Cycas revoluta with 1m of trunk and 14 Cycas circinalis with single and multiple trunks ranging from 1m to 3m of trunk.They were spectacular at one time.

Some will be replaced with Encephalartos sp.,more palms and flowering plants (dwarf bouganvilleas, ixoras etc.)

This process will take about three weeks.The first five were removed yesterday.

Scott, what about a few large Dioons , or you not into them ?

Pete

Pete I do have Dioon merolae and spinulosum. The D.spinulosum are susceptible to ACS.In fact they are more so than even the Australian Cycas sp.

They other problem is that they need some shade here at the beach.

That is unfortunate because there are some very nice large D.spinulosum available.

[edbrown_III]

we this might not be good new but I think we have gone around the corner --- it seems to be subsidign in North Florida atleast --- I think my back grounf predators have in creased sufficiently to keep it in chekc . I used to spray and spray and add the idoc lad or what ever it is called and went cold turkey abot 5 years ago. it has not totally disappeared but it seems to be in check ---- I reckon enough things have figured out how to eat it or recognize it as food

10 years ago the infestation was rampant in Jax maybe there is hope for you

Best regards

Ed

[WestCoastGal]

Scott we had a problem with our cycas revoluta (posted photos in a thread probably in this section last year). We used coffee grounds in the soil and put it in the crown, but what we think worked really fast in eliminating our scale issue was the mixture of rather concentrated coffee ground water which we put in a plant mister and sprayed it on all the fronds, getting the underside well, and the exposed trunk area. Repeated the treatment as indicated in my post back then. The scale died on the fronds.

I saw that you said you sprayed. Did you try with concentrated coffee water? I'll look for my post last year and post the link here. Cycadjungle who first mentioned this type of treatment, didn't think the coffee grounds themselves probably had an effect on our larger sago, but all I can tell you is that the scale died on the fronds and my guess is it was from the caffeine spray. It's been scale free since then.

Found my posts and photos, several of them on a thread called Sick Sago started by Perito: http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?/topic/32565-sick-sago/?hl=westcoastgal#entry663575

[Pedro 65]

After years of constant spraying ,drenching and power washing I have decided to eliminate all my Cycas sp. from my garden.

I had three Cycas revoluta with 1m of trunk and 14 Cycas circinalis with single and multiple trunks ranging from 1m to 3m of trunk.They were spectacular at one time.

Some will be replaced with Encephalartos sp.,more palms and flowering plants (dwarf bouganvilleas, ixoras etc.)

This process will take about three weeks.The first five were removed yesterday.

Scott, what about a few large Dioons , or you not into them ?

Pete

Pete I do have Dioon merolae and spinulosum. The D.spinulosum are susceptible to ACS.In fact they are more so than even the Australian Cycas sp.

They other problem is that they need some shade here at the beach.

That is unfortunate because there are some very nice large D.spinulosum available.

What about Mejiae then, they love full sun, another ACS victim no doubt ? Encephalartos Kisambo and Whitelockii are great fast growers, esp the latter or you could fill the holes with logs, rocks n Carcharodons Pete

[Really full garden]

we this might not be good new but I think we have gone around the corner --- it seems to be subsidign in North Florida atleast --- I think my back grounf predators have in creased sufficiently to keep it in chekc . I used to spray and spray and add the idoc lad or what ever it is called and went cold turkey abot 5 years ago. it has not totally disappeared but it seems to be in check ---- I reckon enough things have figured out how to eat it or recognize it as food

10 years ago the infestation was rampant in Jax maybe there is hope for you

Best regards

Ed

Yes Ed I think it will get better in a few years when all my neighbors Cycas sp. die off.

My problem was that they constantly got reinfested and I had too many to care for.

[Really full garden]

Scott we had a problem with our cycas revoluta (posted photos in a thread probably in this section last year). We used coffee grounds in the soil and put it in the crown, but what we think worked really fast in eliminating our scale issue was the mixture of rather concentrated coffee ground water which we put in a plant mister and sprayed it on all the fronds, getting the underside well, and the exposed trunk area. Repeated the treatment as indicated in my post back then. The scale died on the fronds.

I saw that you said you sprayed. Did you try with concentrated coffee water? I'll look for my post last year and post the link here. Cycadjungle who first mentioned this type of treatment, didn't think the coffee grounds themselves probably had an effect on our larger sago, but all I can tell you is that the scale died on the fronds and my guess is it was from the caffeine spray. It's been scale free since then.

Found my posts and photos, several of them on a thread called Sick Sago started by Perito: http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?/topic/32565-sick-sago/?hl=westcoastgal#entry663575

I first started with coffee grounds and coffee.It had a minimal effect. I then tried plain horticultural oil,then started trying systemics,dog shampoo, Murphys Oil soap with vinegar and baking soda,then malathion.

What really worked the best for me was Malathion with the horticultural oil.

The systemics are very toxic and you need to apply them when the cycads are just starting to flush to get the best results.I was able to keep them virtually free from scale during our dry season.Treating them during the rainy season was difficult.

My other problem was the size and quantity of plants to treat.It became tedious.

I also have no winter here.It might drop to 69F for a few hours on a few mornings in January.I have to battle these little monsters year round.There is no cool season to slow them down

[Really full garden]

After years of constant spraying ,drenching and power washing I have decided to eliminate all my Cycas sp. from my garden.

I had three Cycas revoluta with 1m of trunk and 14 Cycas circinalis with single and multiple trunks ranging from 1m to 3m of trunk.They were spectacular at one time.

Some will be replaced with Encephalartos sp.,more palms and flowering plants (dwarf bouganvilleas, ixoras etc.)

This process will take about three weeks.The first five were removed yesterday.

Scott, what about a few large Dioons , or you not into them ?

Pete

Pete I do have Dioon merolae and spinulosum. The D.spinulosum are susceptible to ACS.In fact they are more so than even the Australian Cycas sp.

They other problem is that they need some shade here at the beach.

That is unfortunate because there are some very nice large D.spinulosum available.

What about Mejiae then, they love full sun, another ACS victim no doubt ? Encephalartos Kisambo and Whitelockii are great fast growers, esp the latter or you could fill the holes with logs, rocks n Carcharodons Pete

Pete remember I live in a small Third World country.There are no palm or cycad nurseries,only a few collectors that might be willing to trade .

I do have E.whitelockii and Encephalartos laurentianus growing in my Highland garden so I would have to transplant them.

For now I am getting a few large E.ferox and one E.gratus. The remaining empty spaces will be filled with small flowering plants,bromeliads and philodendrons.I am also getting a large 3m tall Sealing Wax palm for a special spot near my front door where a massive multi-trunked C.circinalis once grew.

I just harvested a few Carcharodon pups ( I am still covered with scratches and puncture wounds).When they are established they will be going to the beach garden too.

[Sandy Loam]

I have this problem too and it is much worse this year. Cycas Revoluta in the whole vicinty around my house appears to be affected by the scale. Some look totally dead now.

I am willing to try anything.

WestCoastGal, I will read the link that you posted. When you say "coffee water", is it too potent just to spray straight coffee onto the sago? I can dilute it.

Is it useless to spray on top of their white, crusty homes (on the leaves), or do I have to remove those white, encrusted patches first before spraying? It seems to me that whatever I spray will not be able to penetrate those hard, white patches, but i could be wrong.

Do I really have to remove every single infected leaf, as some online sources say, or can I just spray the infected leaves?

WestCoastGal, did you try sprinking coffee grounds on the soil around the base of the plant (above the root zone)? If so, is this supposed to be effective too?

Sorry to be a pest with so many questions.

[Really full garden]

I have this problem too and it is much worse this year. Cycas Revoluta in the whole vicinty around my house appears to be affected by the scale. Some look totally dead now.

I am willing to try anything.

WestCoastGal, I will read the link that you posted. When you say "coffee water", is it too potent just to spray straight coffee onto the sago? I can dilute it.

Is it useless to spray on top of their white, crusty homes (on the leaves), or do I have to remove those white, encrusted patches first before spraying? It seems to me that whatever I spray will not be able to penetrate those hard, white patches, but i could be wrong.

Do I really have to remove every single infected leaf, as some online sources say, or can I just spray the infected leaves?

WestCoastGal, did you try sprinking coffee grounds on the soil around the base of the plant (above the root zone)? If so, is this supposed to be effective too?

Sorry to be a pest with so many questions.

I would pressure wash first,then try the coffee etc..Remember that these scale are on the roots underground too.You will have to spray every month to keep your cycad looking good.

[Sandy Loam]

ScottGT, when you say "pressure wash", do you mean to use an actual pressure washer? I have a pressure washer, but it is extremely powerful. I have used it to remove stains from a concrete or driveway (nothing nothing else will remove theme), but I have never used it on a plant. It removes paint. it is that powerful. Are you sure that a pressure washer can be used on a sago? If the plant survives that kind of treatment, the soil around it would be all torn up anyway. I would prefer just to use my garden hose and put it on the "jet" setting.

Also, I have just purchased a product called "organocide." The bottle says that "sago scale" is among the insects treatable with it. It is a concentrate that is to be watered down and sprayed. I will use it for the first time today. Does anyone know if this product really works on Asian sago scale? Any experiences?

[Really full garden]

ScottGT, when you say "pressure wash", do you mean to use an actual pressure washer? I have a pressure washer, but it is extremely powerful. I have used it to remove stains from a concrete or driveway (nothing nothing else will remove theme), but I have never used it on a plant. It removes paint. it is that powerful. Are you sure that a pressure washer can be used on a sago? If the plant survives that kind of treatment, the soil around it would be all torn up anyway. I would prefer just to use my garden hose and put it on the "jet" setting.

Also, I have just purchased a product called "organocide." The bottle says that "sago scale" is among the insects treatable with it. It is a concentrate that is to be watered down and sprayed. I will use it for the first time today. Does anyone know if this product really works on Asian sago scale? Any experiences?

I would use the pressure washer on the trunk only,use the high spray nozzle on your garden hose for the foliage.Almost all the products I tried worked for a while.The problem is your plants will be re-infected every few months from other infected cycads in your neighborhood.These scale can be blown for several kilometers. Unfortunately there is not a one time treatment.I would say 3x per year.

[WestCoastGal]

Sandy Loam, sorry to hear you're facing this with your sagos. We have just the one large C revoluta which has several pups so didn't need a large amount of the coffee sun tea for our use. Not sure how many plants you have to treat at your home. I tried to be pretty descriptive in the several posts I made on that above linked thread. I'm sure many of the questions you had for me will be answered after reading my posts there.

I can add that our lawn guy first noticed the scale on our sago when he was pulling a few weeds near it, and he cut off a few of the more heavily infested fronds but otherwise we treated the rest along with the trunk. The photo of the infected frond I posted (click to enlarge it) was pretty indicitive of the condition of the fronds. He threw them in our can but before disposing of them we heavily doused them with coffee spray and then bagged them, sealing the bag for garbage collection.

Yes, we did use coffee grounds at the base, and I described what we did on the other thread. If you are going to treat the soil, etc. with coffee grounds which I would recommend for any that might have traveled to the roots, you might as well make your own coffee sun tea at that point. Starbucks coffee/grounds are way stronger than I would use for coffee at home, so for me Starbucks was the way to go. I believe Tom posted that you could use Starbucks coffee black if you wanted to for the spray without fear of burning; and seeing how strong I thought our coffee sun tea turned out for our small batch after just 1 day, I'd probably agree.

Our problem surfaced in July last year so we'll be pretreating again very soon. I'll post an update later.