How hard is it to move an 18' tall mango tree without killing it? I heard that the roots, especially the tap root, are very sensitive. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I had a seedling Keitt mango in my modesto back yard for about 10 years. The fruit was well.... not great.

So I gave it away to the first person to dig it up. It was planted in almost pure Modesto Sand, so it was difficult to transplant. But it was still set way back by the transplantation.

The last time I heard, it was surviving somewhere in the sf Bayarea.... barely.

Jeff

I had a seedling Keitt mango in my modesto back yard for about 10 years. The fruit was well.... not great.

So I gave it away to the first person to dig it up. It was planted in almost pure Modesto Sand, so it was difficult to transplant. But it was still set way back by the transplantation.

The last time I heard, it was surviving somewhere in the sf Bayarea.... barely.

Jeff

That's not very encouraging.

You're quite right. Mango has an incredibly strong taproot system, and transplantation can cause severe shock to the plant. I have two 50 feet trees at home and their roots are visible on the other side of the lawn, nearly 30 feet away. This is not to say they cannot be transplanted - but any attempt will need a really, really large root ball, and some heavy excavation equipment. I'd advise against it though.

A lot depends on how old it is, how fast it's grown. 18 feet, that's 5.5 metres, a fairly large tree for transplanting. What sort of equipment do you have access to for the job? You could start by digging a trench around it then give it time to re-adjust to a smaller root system. But you'd still have to have some heavy equipment to complete the job. Mangos are pretty tough and resilient, if you have the right climate.

A lot depends on how old it is, how fast it's grown. 18 feet, that's 5.5 metres, a fairly large tree for transplanting. What sort of equipment do you have access to for the job? You could start by digging a trench around it then give it time to re-adjust to a smaller root system. But you'd still have to have some heavy equipment to complete the job. Mangos are pretty tough and resilient, if you have the right climate.

It's a tree that's been offered to me for sale. It is growing here in San Diego which is a marginal climate for most varieties. It is a robust tree, however. Sounds like it's throwing money away. if we were in a warmer climate, I'd probably do it. In addition, with such a sensistive root system, and not being able to get all the roots, I would probably need to cut the tree waaaay back which defeats the point of getting such a large specimen to begin with.

I think it's a wise decision not to pay money for something like that, I didn't realise you were expected to pay. In a lot of cases it takes just as long for a young tree to mature as it does a mature tree to recover after transplanting.

Their roots aren't all that sensitive. I had one that grew to about 3 metres in just over two years. When I left someone else wanted it but I suggested he wait until the wet season. He didn't wait but the tree recovered very quickly and took off again. Surprised me.

If you're going to buy a tree get a grafted one. I've seen them being sold with fruit already on them. Also, they don't grow so high, making the fruit larger and easier to pick.

If you're going to buy a tree get a grafted one. I've seen them being sold with fruit already on them. Also, they don't grow so high, making the fruit larger and easier to pick.

Keep in mind though, that grafted trees are a lot less vigorous than trees from seed and usually are slower to recover from cold, transplantation, overpruning and insect attacks. They also have significantly lower life spans. Unless you're interested solely for the fruit, I recommend you germinate your own mango - nothing like it.

True, if you're not interested in fruit then seed mangos are not a problem. Most of my trees are grafted but they're at no disadvantage to the non-grafted ones, it's all a matter of whether you look after them.

Epicure - since you seem to be a bit of a mango-lover, I'm uploading this photo of the first new growth of one of my mango trees, post this April's harvest. The tree is about 50-60 feet and turns 18 this july. I love the various hues that the new leaves take as they mature.

Epicure - since you seem to be a bit of a mango-lover, I'm uploading this photo of the first new growth of one of my mango trees, post this April's harvest. The tree is about 50-60 feet and turns 18 this july. I love the various hues that the new leaves take as they mature.

That's a great photo. I do like the new flushes of leaves. My Alphonso, an Indian variety, is putting forth fruit right now which should be ready by October.

Epicure - since you seem to be a bit of a mango-lover, I'm uploading this photo of the first new growth of one of my mango trees, post this April's harvest. The tree is about 50-60 feet and turns 18 this july. I love the various hues that the new leaves take as they mature.

That's a great photo. I do like the new flushes of leaves. My Alphonso, an Indian variety, is putting forth fruit right now which should be ready by October.

Alphonso is the most expensive variety around here - costs a small ransom

And replying to your earlier post reminded me to bring down some of the crop on my other tree today. Here's a photo acount. The method is admittedly crude, but effective.

1. Zero in on a cluster...

2. Some deft handling puts the fruit just where you want it, ...

3. And voila!