Jump to content
  • WELCOME GUEST

    It looks as if you are viewing PalmTalk as an unregistered Guest.

    Please consider registering so as to take better advantage of our vast knowledge base and friendly community.  By registering you will gain access to many features - among them are our powerful Search feature, the ability to Private Message other Users, and be able to post and/or answer questions from all over the world. It is completely free, no “catches,” and you will have complete control over how you wish to use this site.

    PalmTalk is sponsored by the International Palm Society. - an organization dedicated to learning everything about and enjoying palm trees (and their companion plants) while conserving endangered palm species and habitat worldwide. Please take the time to know us all better and register.

    guest Renda04.jpg

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hey all,

I've got a Heliconia schiedeana that has been in the ground a few years now. But it's never flowered. Every winter, it brown leafs a lot, then comes roaring back in spring. I assumed they were like Canna, where damaged stalks rarely produce growth, let alone flowers. So I always cut the burnt ones to the ground. But since I've never had flowers, I left the damaged ones on this year, thinking maybe they would experience new growth. (& flowers!) But so far it's the same thing--lots of new stalks growing, none of last years over wintered stalks show any signs of growth, & obviously no flowers either. Thoughts? Suggestions? Should I keep cutting off the damaged stalks? Thanks in advance..

Bret

Edited by quaman58

Bret

 

Coastal canyon area of San Diego

 

"In the shadow of the Cross"

Posted

Maybe move it to a more protected spot in your garden where the leaves will more likely remain evergreen. I can get this species to flower every year here in Berkeley and San Francisco, although it usually takes a full two years to get a stalk to bloom. They will still bloom well enough if grown with dappled shade, and an overhead story of evergreen tree foliage will generally tend to help keep the foliage from getting burnt. In my experience, H. scheideana will bloom after making the requisite number of leaves, and not before. In hotter summer climates, it seems that old bloom stalks with pruned off/burnt foliage can still bloom, especially if it is a big clump; but they don't seem to want to bloom if foliage is removed/pruned off here in cool summer Berkeley conditions. Try pushing faster growth with regular fertilizing/compost at the roots to get faster blooming. Surely if I can get this to bloom up here, you ought to have an easier time of it down there, as long as it is well fed/watered.

Posted

Thanks for that. I think part of my issue may also be that it's in full sum for most of the day. I suspect that that's what the nursery tag suggested. But like so many other plants, filtered light is usually safer. There's sure plenty of growth; maybe this year's the one..

Bret

 

Coastal canyon area of San Diego

 

"In the shadow of the Cross"

Posted

Bret, give it a boost of fertilizer high in Phosphorous and a massive coating of composted mulch.

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

Posted

In my experience with heliconias that are in a marginal climatic position the more sun the better to warm up the plant.

In our area we can grow many of the species but if the stems are damaged they seem to not want to flower.

Let me explain. One year we had a good growing season and towards the end of summer we had a bad hail storm and rip to threads my heliconias and palms.

So I thought I would just trim the ugly leaves off and leave the stems to grow new leaves and eventually flower. One clump I trimmed to the ground.

Winter was very mild and the plants grew through winter. However the stems that were advanced that got their leaves ruined did not flower the next year and were rotten in the centre near the bottom.

But the clumps that I trimmed to the ground came back even stronger to flower well.

It seems the moral of the story is if stems are damaged either by cold or storm they fail to flower successfully.

In your case because cold is a yearly event it seems you will not get these to flower. You may have to try other more hardy ones or just enjoy the foliage.

Palms are the king of trees

Brod

Brisbane, Australia

28 latitude, sub tropical

summer average 21c min - 29c max

winter average 10c min - 21c max

extremes at my place 5c - 42c

1100 average rainfall

Posted

It should flower for you either this year or next provided that you give it fertilizer and lots of water. Mine flowered after three years in the ground. Then it became a nuisance after that because it was taking over where ever it was planted, plus my yard was too windy and the leaves are always shreaded. I removed them all except for a small variety that is not too aggressive.

Posted

Mine bloom about one per 10 stalks. I leave mine alone to get the second year of growth that they need to flower. After that, I cut them down. Like someone else said, they start to take over after a few years and get ugly to look at far too often. All mine are coming out this summer.

Len

Vista, CA (Zone 10a)

Shadowridge Area

"Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are."

-- Alfred Austin

Posted

Hey Len, I'll take whatever you are tossing.

Resident of Puerto de la Cruz, Tenerife, San Diego, CA and Pahoa, HI.  Former garden in Vista, CA.  Garden Photos

Posted

I want to try one of the lobster claw after seein Justin's from his house pix thread. Now that's the real deal.

Posted

Hey Len, I'll take whatever you are tossing.

I got tons. Variegated Alpinia too if you want that.

Len

Vista, CA (Zone 10a)

Shadowridge Area

"Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are."

-- Alfred Austin

Posted

Len , if you trust those who want Heliconias :winkie:

make them dig them out themselves ,it makes a good deal both ways then .

You will still have to clean up a bit . I have done this a few times , getting rid of stuff from Mums , and getting some fillers when I shifted here . :rolleyes:

Got a heap of rostratas I want gone now :rage:

Michael in palm paradise,

Tully, wet tropics in Australia, over 4 meters of rain every year.

Home of the Golden Gumboot, its over 8m high , our record annual rainfall.

Posted

Len , if you trust those who want Heliconias :winkie:

make them dig them out themselves ,it makes a good deal both ways then .

You will still have to clean up a bit . I have done this a few times , getting rid of stuff from Mums , and getting some fillers when I shifted here . :rolleyes:

Got a heap of rostratas I want gone now :rage:

Good point! Come and dig 'em Justin. :)

Len

Vista, CA (Zone 10a)

Shadowridge Area

"Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are."

-- Alfred Austin

Posted

Heliconias will only bloom on last years stems so if your cutting them down you constantly have one yr old stems with no flowers. Cut stems off only after blooming. If you have some leaf burn try trimming off the leaf blade but leave the stem and growing point intact.

David Glover

Growing cold hardy palms and tropicals in Coldspring, Tx

http://www.tejastropicals.com

Posted

In my experience with heliconias that are in a marginal climatic position the more sun the better to warm up the plant.

In our area we can grow many of the species but if the stems are damaged they seem to not want to flower.

Let me explain. One year we had a good growing season and towards the end of summer we had a bad hail storm and rip to threads my heliconias and palms.

So I thought I would just trim the ugly leaves off and leave the stems to grow new leaves and eventually flower. One clump I trimmed to the ground.

Winter was very mild and the plants grew through winter. However the stems that were advanced that got their leaves ruined did not flower the next year and were rotten in the centre near the bottom.

But the clumps that I trimmed to the ground came back even stronger to flower well.

It seems the moral of the story is if stems are damaged either by cold or storm they fail to flower successfully.

In your case because cold is a yearly event it seems you will not get these to flower. You may have to try other more hardy ones or just enjoy the foliage.

I think that's been my problem trying to get rostrata to flower. They put up 4m high stems that grow vigorously then winter bashes them up and they look sort of Ok until half way through summer and they start dying. Of course they won't flower when the centre has rotted out. The strange thing is, it puts out new stems in the middle of winter. I think I'm going to have to protect them better. It's a bit hard though when they're 4m tall.

Best regards

Tyrone

Millbrook, "Kinjarling" Noongar word meaning "Place of Rain", Rainbow Coast, Western Australia 35S. Warm temperate. Csb Koeppen Climate classification. Cool nights all year round.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...