Plumeria Cuttings

[feef706]

I was reading some articles online about starting plumeria cuttings.. I just started mine yesterday and with the on and off cold we are having here in the panhandle of florida I will be having to bring them in from time to time. I have a double flourescent 40 watt shop light hanging in my garage which I leave on all night when my plants are in but I am considering using coffee mug warmers to keep the pots warm on my two cuttings.. Anyone have any experience with warming pots this way or any other way? I figure its the safest method and it would be just about the right size for the 1 gallon pots.. Any advice is appreciated.. Thanks James

[fastfeat]

James--

I haven't used these kinds of warmers, but the concept is sound. Many plants benefit from warmth while rooting, though I've used heating cables made for this purpose. If you do use them, make certain they don't overheat or short-circuit by using them for this purpose.

The most important thing with plumeria cuttings is to make sure they don't rot. Make certain they're in a very porous mix, say 2/3 good potting soil and 1/3 perlite. Water once to get them settled, then don't water again until dry or new leaves start pushing.

With weather warming soon, you can probably just bring pots inside at night until night temps are in the 50's consistently if that's easier.

Good luck.

[LJG]

This is good to know. I am about to whack off some limbs to prune up a nice one I have. It was bought as Plumeria menehune but I have no info on it and when I asked about it on other forums, little was known. On thing that is cool is that it is not deciduous. in fact it still has all its leaves. Nice bonus for SoCal. Although the trade off is it does not bloom as profuse and it does not have the aroma as lets say Rubra.

Ken, does it matter how large the cutting? Will a 3 foot limb cut from the trunk do well?

[joe_OC]

Hey Len,

After you prune the branch that you are going to root, let the end callus up.  This should take about a week.  I then dip it in root hormone (I prefer Clonex) and plant it in a fast draining soil.  Give it a good drink.  Water it only when the soil drys out.  Once you have leaves over 6 inches, you will have roots going below.  Increase your watering.  If in doubt, wait some more before watering.  Plumerias do not like wet feet.  

3 feet will be fine, but it has to be larger than 12".  I am rooting a 5 foot "instant tree" now.

Joe

[LJG]

Cool. Thanks for the tips.

[Kris]

Dear James & Len

those plants grow like crazy here in south india,all i do is during spring time i cut out those branches that are not needed and i place it in a mild shady location without watering and bear foot say about a fortnight.some rot while some remain as they are.only those healthy ones are placed in a sandy soil pot or container and every 3 days once i water it till it gives out root..

here are few stills of it while flowering !  

love,

[Kris]

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[Kris]

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[Alicehunter2000]

I did not bring my small plumeria sticks in this winter. I threw a pillow case on them those few days it dipped just below freezing. They are planted in the same sand you got over there. I brought them in last year and it seemed a bit detrimental to them (I managed to rot a couple). They like this North Florida Sand......with no additional water (other than rainfall). One still has a leaf. Plant them at the warmest part of your yard.....preferably close to the house (for heat in winter).

[Gonzer]

Joe_OC's advice simplifies the whole process. No need to make mountains out of molehills.

[fastfeat]

(LJG @ Mar. 01 2008,00:37)

QUOTE

This is good to know. I am about to whack off some limbs to prune up a nice one I have. It was bought as Plumeria menehune but I have no info on it and when I asked about it on other forums, little was known. On thing that is cool is that it is not deciduous. in fact it still has all its leaves. Nice bonus for SoCal. Although the trade off is it does not bloom as profuse and it does not have the aroma as lets say Rubra.

Ken, does it matter how large the cutting? Will a 3 foot limb cut from the trunk do well?

Len--

Your 'Menehune' came from RSN, no? If so, it's a dwarf pink form of P. obtusa. These are more cold-sensitive than P. rubra cvs, and tougher to grow outdoors in SoCal (Fl too--Hawaiians have one up on both of us here ).

I'd wait to start cuttings of plumerias until night temps have warmed a bit, maybe April, unless you've got a greenhouse. Far less chance of rotting them off.

Bigger cuttings are easier than smaller ones. Three-footers should be fine--start in a 5gal/20l pot with a good, fast mix with perlite (or pumice if you've got it).

[LJG]

(fastfeat @ Mar. 01 2008,07:42)

QUOTE

Your 'Menehune' came from RSN, no? If so, it's a dwarf pink form of P. obtusa. These are more cold-sensitive than P. rubra cvs, and tougher to grow outdoors in SoCal (Fl too--Hawaiians have one up on both of us here ).

That stinks. Right now it is doing fine. Little leaf drop. But we have had a mellow winter. No cold snaps like last year. I have buried a lot of tropicals trying them here, hope this is not another.

[fastfeat]

Len--

Not impossible, but probably best as a container plant where you can keep it dry in the Winter. I never could grow P. obtusa in the ground in SoCal-- always rotted.

Maybe others have got success stories, pics?

[feef706]

I was just trying to speed up the process.. I did my homework before i planted my cuttings.. My method was one i found on line which was marking the cutting 4 inches up from the bottom. fill a one gallon pot I did 50/50 perelite, jungle growth potting mix(drains really well withought the added perelite) then I packed the dirt to about an inch below the rim. dipped the cuttings in root hormone, then stuck them in till the line is even with the rim of the pot. then fill that one inch remaining area with pea gravel for stability and weight, then soaked it. I read not to water for a week. it said if left in full sun it should fill the pot with roots in 90 days at which point I will pot up. We'll see how it goes.. Thanks for the input

[joe_OC]

feef...sounds like you were at Plumeria101...The process does work!  But with such a fast draining soil, you will need to keep an eye out...Once plumies have roots, the do want water.  If you let the pot go too dry, you can burn the roots.

I would agree with fastfeat that p. obtusa is more cold sensitive, but Len is in zone 10a/b so he should be fine.  The soil is key...make sure it drains well.  I recommend planting it on a mound and in a warm spot if you are going to put it in ground.  Lots of people prefer planting them in pots...not me.

[feef706]

Yea that was the first site I found.. I found others with different information since then but i liked the ideas from plumeria101.. It said to water once a week, is this not enough?.. I figured once I saw some leaves beginning to form its safe to assume the plant has roots then I could water it every other day or so..

I am not planning on leaving mine in the ground as it gets way too cold here in the panhandle of florida.. I was thinking of burying the pot for the summer months to speed up growth.. anyone have any thoughts on this?

[ellidro]

Len

Jeff rood told me to dip the cutting in root tone then honey and plant the cuttings in pure pumice.  he said this combo was recommended by the plumeria society and it has increased his production dramatically. I just tried it and so far so good.

Nick

[tikitiki]

I have over three hundred plumaria plants and my obtusa is the only one that does not lose its leaves in winter. It also blooms through the entire winter as well. I would say it is alot hardier than rubra. They love water and fert when the leaves are at least 6 to 8 inches long. I would water once and leave it until the leaves start to mature. I always set them on the hot pavement to give bottom heat during the day. Good luck.