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Posted

Hi, 

I am newer to Florida and really struggling with this Pygmy Date Palm that I have.  It is 16 months old and had been doing good, or so I thought.  I had noticed that 2 of the 3 have been looking "weaker" and the new growth has started coming out brown.  I tug on the center and it comes out on those 2, but the 3rd one is doing better.  I fertilize with Palm Gain every 3 months as I was instructed.  Is there any saving these 2?  Not sure what else to do and hoping for some guidance.  

Please be gentle.....newbie here!

Thanks!

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Posted

Overall, you’ve got two issues I think.  
I guess you are describing a “spear-pull” in two of the three.  If this is the case, there is rot in the top of the palm.  This can happen from over head irrigation, cold damage, weed killers, diseases, etc.    You treat it by pouring drug store peroxide down where the spear was, then treating with antifungals (liquid copper and/or Daconil).   You repeat treatments over days to weeks with peroxide frequently until fizzing stops, and less so with the copper, daconil. 

Your other problem, I think, is that the palm group is anemic from poor soil and dry, hot conditions.   In my opinion, the rock and weed barrier is not very good for the palms if the soil below is already poor.  Florida soils are often mostly sand and construction debris.  They contain and hold little water or nutrients at baseline.  The rock and weed barrier makes things worse.   Phoenix roebelenii / Pygmy Dates like a lot of water and richer soil to be happy.  

To fix this, amend planing holes a lot with organics.  For this group that’s already planted, I’d get some angled border pavers, and create a big circle border around the palms.  Rake back the rocks to outside that, and cut out the weed barrier in the circle, and mix in some garden soil and composted manure on the surface, and then top with several inches of plain wood mulch.  Fertilize and deeply hand water frequently into that into the summer.   You can’t really overwater these.  

Something like this, but with wood mulch around the palms where the dark stone is. 
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I’ve got 10 of these out front all planted at the same time, the same size just a few years ago.  

Here’s one that is on the edge of where irrigation hits, in sandy soil.  Untrimmed and slow, lagging far behind… 
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Here’s others in the heart of amended garden beds with lots of irrigation.  Over-trimmed for spring.  All started out the same size. 

Summer 2020…

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May 2024
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Good amending and watering made these grow 2x bigger and more robustly compared to the anemic one at the end of the line.  

  • Like 4
  • Upvote 2
Posted

@Looking Glass thank you! So how soon after I do the peroxide treatment do I do the copper fungicide? Also, I am scheduled to fertilize them, am I okay to do so?

  • Like 1
Posted

Should be fine.  You can do the peroxide and antifungals at the same time.   You can’t really overdo peroxide, but too much copper can be toxic.   Daconil sticks to the palms like a light coat of primer.  These days if I have a spear issue, I’ll do all three.   You can repeat the peroxide every few days at first.  I like to do crown treatments in the morning or early afternoon so they have the daytime to dry out.   When there’s no more bubbling, the peroxide has done all it can do.  

When you water, don’t just wet the surface.   You’re trying to get the water 3 feet into the ground.   Really let it soak in there.  

  • Like 2
  • Upvote 2
Posted

@Looking Glass has very good advice. These seem to be water lovers here in Southern California and love organic mulch which helps the soil absorb and retain the moisture. Once you get adequate moisture to the roots your palms should start looking much better. Harry

  • Like 2
  • 9 months later...
Posted

Seem to do well and handle our wet summers and occasionally winter freezes.. solid 9b Jax beaches. Mine planted north west side home. No protection 

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  • Like 1

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