Post freeze therapy

[byuind]

So you did your best to protect and heat! Excellent news.

 

what do you do next? Any secrets? I’ve got the idea to up water disbursement to all my plants as it warms back up. Probably wait on fertilizer… maybe a phosphate treatment. 
 

 

[JohnAndSancho]

I need to get off my culo and put mine back outside. I mean, pros and cons for a container jungle in SE TX - Pros, our cold snaps usually only last a couple days and I can drag everything inside... Cons, I have to drag everything inside and back out. 

[Merlyn]

I find that a massage and Xanax works wonders....oooooh you meant for the plants!    At the moment I'm not doing anything, but am planning on hydrogen peroxide + Daconil mix into the crown of at least a few palms.  I had a lot of deaths from bud rot after last January, so I'm going to be preemptive. 

Conventional wisdom says to wait on fertilizer until it warms up, because "you don't want it going into active growth mode in January."  But soil temps are still in the 60s so there's not a bioavailability problem here in central Floriduh.  On many of my defoliated plants last year they didn't start growing a new spear until April or May.  Was this because I waited to fertilize until the end of March to fertilize?  Maybe...?  Perhaps if I'd fertilized earlier they'd have the nutrients to push a new spear before bud rot set in?  Maybe a few of them would have survived?  It's hard to say one way or another.

[NickJames]

2 hours ago, Merlyn said:

I find that a massage and Xanax works wonders....oooooh you meant for the plants!    At the moment I'm not doing anything, but am planning on hydrogen peroxide + Daconil mix into the crown of at least a few palms.  I had a lot of deaths from bud rot after last January, so I'm going to be preemptive. 

Conventional wisdom says to wait on fertilizer until it warms up, because "you don't want it going into active growth mode in January."  But soil temps are still in the 60s so there's not a bioavailability problem here in central Floriduh.  On many of my defoliated plants last year they didn't start growing a new spear until April or May.  Was this because I waited to fertilize until the end of March to fertilize?  Maybe...?  Perhaps if I'd fertilized earlier they'd have the nutrients to push a new spear before bud rot set in?  Maybe a few of them would have survived?  It's hard to say one way or another.

I’m using florikan now which apparently won’t release until conditions are conducive for nutrient uptake anyways so I’ll probably be fertilizing in the next couple weeks. 

I put tebucanazole (spelling?) on my damaged palms today. It was what I had on hand (no idea where it came from but it was in a new bottle and not expired!?) and I checked first that it was palm safe. It’s systemic apparently. 
 

[byuind]

I’ve got my Copper fungicide coming today (some @$$hats bought all of it at the local big box stores lol) so I will apply all that today. 
 

I’ll grab some hydrogen peroxide as well for good measure.

 

I’ve been deep watering for the last 4 days to get as much moisture back into those roots as possible. My thought process is unscientific as of right now but I’m looking for research based articles on this: with the severe windburn on some of my larger palms, there is a need for moisture. Since palms have such a high water content I would assume that much of it was lost in the wind burn stage. The water should help recovery for the Royals and Archontophoenix species. 
 

where I am a little concerned is on a bottle palm i have. It was heated and covered but it looks quite sick now.  Just “droopy” - Im going to be biting some nails over that one.

 

 

 

and then to further add to the stress level. It would appear that my dumb ass burned a Satake around the heart area. I only used mini lights on this one which makes it even more concerning. Any thoughts?

[Allen]

33 minutes ago, byuind said:

and then to further add to the stress level. It would appear that my dumb ass burned a Satake around the heart area. I only used mini lights on this one which makes it even more concerning. Any thoughts?

Pretty hard to burn with mini lights.  But for future reference my palms wrapped with mini lights and 2-3 layers of frost cloth stay 25-45F in 0F temps.  You must have really wrapped (Blanket) and not used a thermocube.

[Merlyn]

On 12/27/2022 at 9:14 PM, NickJames said:

I’m using florikan now which apparently won’t release until conditions are conducive for nutrient uptake anyways so I’ll probably be fertilizing in the next couple weeks. 

I put tebucanazole (spelling?) on my damaged palms today. It was what I had on hand (no idea where it came from but it was in a new bottle and not expired!?) and I checked first that it was palm safe. It’s systemic apparently.

My reading of the Tebuconazole labels is that it's primarily effective against leaf spot diseases.  So things like powdery mildew, rust spot, anthracnose black spot and similar leaf blights might be controlled by a dose.  But it doesn't look like it has any effect on other diseases like phytophthora bud rots or trunk diseases like Thielaviopsis or Ganoderma.  It's hard to say if Tebuconazole would help a lot.

@byuindyour Bottle looks a lot better than mine.  Mine that took "minor" damage like that almost always recovered.  I'd mark the spear with a sharpie and do some hydrogen peroxide dribbles into the crown.  There's an oval-shaped gap near the base of the old frond where the new spear will come out.  I'd put a little down in there to help avoid fungal infections on the new spear.  Copper fungicide is ok too, just remember that copper is toxic in big quantities.  Repeated applications of copper fungicide might do more harm than good!

The heart of the Satakentia is probably a foot or so below the burn spot.  So while that burn wouldn't have killed the heart, it might have killed those fronds.  Hopefully a new spear pushes through before the next freeze.  I'd mark it with a sharpie too.

[byuind]

1 hour ago, Merlyn said:

My reading of the Tebuconazole labels is that it's primarily effective against leaf spot diseases.  So things like powdery mildew, rust spot, anthracnose black spot and similar leaf blights might be controlled by a dose.  But it doesn't look like it has any effect on other diseases like phytophthora bud rots or trunk diseases like Thielaviopsis or Ganoderma.  It's hard to say if Tebuconazole would help a lot.

@byuindyour Bottle looks a lot better than mine.  Mine that took "minor" damage like that almost always recovered.  I'd mark the spear with a sharpie and do some hydrogen peroxide dribbles into the crown.  There's an oval-shaped gap near the base of the old frond where the new spear will come out.  I'd put a little down in there to help avoid fungal infections on the new spear.  Copper fungicide is ok too, just remember that copper is toxic in big quantities.  Repeated applications of copper fungicide might do more harm than good!

The heart of the Satakentia is probably a foot or so below the burn spot.  So while that burn wouldn't have killed the heart, it might have killed those fronds.  Hopefully a new spear pushes through before the next freeze.  I'd mark it with a sharpie too.

Thanks for that info. 
 

in terms of hydrogen peroxide: is dousing the whole heart a bad thing? A guy told me to do that and I may or may not have already taken that approach. As in several ounces… I heard lots of sizzling which I took as a good thing since it would be killing contaminants. Hopefully I didn’t just do a bad thing….

 

 

as far as the Satake… it has a spear popping right up through currently… the marks don’t appear to have hit that spear but I can’t be sure right now.

 

 

[idontknowhatnametuse]

This was all the damage I got.

[Fishinsteeg234]

@byuind I also used small incandescent string lights around my young Royal, then wrapped with a blanket. Unfortunately the lights fell down and bunched up in a spot and I also burned the trunk. What do you guys think? Will it recover? 

[Merlyn]

1 hour ago, byuind said:

Thanks for that info.  in terms of hydrogen peroxide: is dousing the whole heart a bad thing? A guy told me to do that and I may or may not have already taken that approach. As in several ounces… I heard lots of sizzling which I took as a good thing since it would be killing contaminants. Hopefully I didn’t just do a bad thing….

as far as the Satake… it has a spear popping right up through currently… the marks don’t appear to have hit that spear but I can’t be sure right now.

For hydrogen peroxide, a good sized squirt from a bottle is plenty.  If it's sizzling audibly then it is attacking a fungus...which I guess is a good and a bad thing.  If there's no fizzling then that means there's no fungus present, which is good.  If it fizzles that means a fungus is present, which is bad, but it's attacking it, which is good.  So, er....    I'd personally do another dose next week and listen for any sizzling.  I haven't read of anyone here having problems with too much hydrogen peroxide.  It does break down into water, which isn't the most awesome thing in the world to sit in the crown.  But it's sterile water, so probably no different than rainwater that would naturally sit in the crown.

I'd probably still sharpie the Satake, just so it's easy to see where the burned spot *might* end up.  If you know it's grown out well past the burnt spots on the old fronds, then the new one will probably be fine.  I'd think the same thing on yours @Fishinsteeg234, the heart is probably still underground and hasn't been damaged.  I'd guess it's fine, with possible damage to the existing fronds but likely okay on the new ones.

[byuind]

25 minutes ago, Merlyn said:

For hydrogen peroxide, a good sized squirt from a bottle is plenty.  If it's sizzling audibly then it is attacking a fungus...which I guess is a good and a bad thing.  If there's no fizzling then that means there's no fungus present, which is good.  If it fizzles that means a fungus is present, which is bad, but it's attacking it, which is good.  So, er....    I'd personally do another dose next week and listen for any sizzling.  I haven't read of anyone here having problems with too much hydrogen peroxide.  It does break down into water, which isn't the most awesome thing in the world to sit in the crown.  But it's sterile water, so probably no different than rainwater that would naturally sit in the crown.

I'd probably still sharpie the Satake, just so it's easy to see where the burned spot *might* end up.  If you know it's grown out well past the burnt spots on the old fronds, then the new one will probably be fine.  I'd think the same thing on yours @Fishinsteeg234, the heart is probably still underground and hasn't been damaged.  I'd guess it's fine, with possible damage to the existing fronds but likely okay on the new ones.

Judging by the amount of fungus on my St Augustine grass, that comes as no surprise! I know, I know- different funguses but still a pain!

 

I’ll probably give them all a few weeks and then hit them to the H2O2 again and see if we are sizzling 

[GottmitAlex]

Let's not count our chickens before they hatch. Winter barely started. 

I do pray that the worst is over.