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Ravenea Care Questions


Frond-friend42
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Twenty buck at Home Depot seems a steal for these. I inspected it for signs of scale and plane to wipe it down with horticultural oil just for good measure. Don't want to risk my other littler palms. Two questions:

1. Do I separate the two palms? I prefer singles to doubles with trunking palms. But I dont know how risky this will be.

2.Unique soil requirements? Likes a lot of water, so should i add some water retaining elements rather than my usual cactus/palm mix? Jim in Los Altos pointed out it likes magnesium. I'm wondering if since it grows near rivers if it might like more rocks/sand....?

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I would not separate them - you will set them back.  If you prefer a single, I would just cut the smaller one out at soil level.

Ben Rogers

On the border of Concord & Clayton in the East Bay hills - Elev 387 ft 37.95 °N, 121.94 °W

My back yard weather station: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/hdfForecast?query=37.954%2C-121.945&sp=KCACONCO37

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Agree w/ Ben, better to cut out one rather than separate.

As far as soil, water, fert?  Lots of water, Feed regularly.. say 3x during the warmer months/ 1x during the winter.. I'd use something organic, or at least something that releases slowly over any liquid chemical stuff..  While these seem to tolerate various soil conditions well, -as long as water/ feeding is maintained- but also curious if a more gravely/ gritty mix would help them grow faster. Guess it depends on what the soil conditions are where they grow in Madagascar. Might grow in slow flow areas where deeper deposits of more organically rich soil are laid down, vs. areas where a faster water flow would strip away finer sediment/ organics leaving behind the larger grit/gravely stuff we're used to along many of the washes/ rivers here in the Southwest.
 

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I think the usual cactus soil should do it. I guess I'm going to leave it as a double. Thanks for the advice, guys!

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It is my experience, with my Ravenea Hildebrandti, and Majesty, that they like being on the moist side.  Most of my houseplants, I water just as they start to dry, particularly the Kentias, where I let them get dry in between watering.

As far as house (plant) sitting, it is tough.  One thing I have tried when we left for only a week was setting up black low tubs about 4-6" high, wallpaper or sheet rock tubs, at Home Depot.  Fill it with water a few inches, put my plants on something above the water so they are not sitting in it.  The humidity hold them longer, and, your person  watering won't make a mess on your floor.  Because, it was only a week, I let the room get a little darker. I use to belong to a local garden club, that holds monthly meetings, and, there are people at this club that help other people out.  There are a lot of retired persons there, with the time, and experience, and, are interested in making a little extra money.  I am sure there are some around you, and, you meet some very interesting people, who love plants, and, great talks.  You definitely want an experienced person, if your power went out, they would know what to do, so your plants won't cook in a house that needs AC.  You could also post cards at a few retirement places and carefully screen for people who have experience.  Home safety wise, I am more comfortable about my home with a senior, of which I guess at 68, I am now.  Cecile

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On 7/26/2020 at 4:05 PM, Frond-friend42 said:

Unique soil requirements?

You may add some vermiculite (10/15%). It retains water and nutrients within interlaminate spaces and also between individual particles. It provides water and nurientes whenever the palm needs, besides promoting the aeration and drainage of the potting soil. I use it on my two R. rivularis, with great results. Greener, healthier, and watering practically every day. I added about 25% perlite (more drainage), cocopeat (20%), and earthworm humus (5%) to the mix, the rest is high quality potting soil. It keeps them wet all the time, not soggy. It works for me...

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Greetings, Luís

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  • 1 year later...

One of the two turned to pink fungus mush. The remaining one is struggling along (hard to decide when to water it...I wait for the top layer to get dry).

Now I'm trying to figure out why each new leaf is getting progressively smaller. I give it a sprinkling of Epsom every few months...I have occasionally added a bit of palm fertilizer....I get spider mites and spray for them, so they may be a small part of the damage but not actively...

Any advice?

 

20210804_220126.jpg

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On 8/5/2021 at 1:00 PM, Frond-friend42 said:

One of the two turned to pink fungus mush. The remaining one is struggling along (hard to decide when to water it...I wait for the top layer to get dry).

Now I'm trying to figure out why each new leaf is getting progressively smaller. I give it a sprinkling of Epsom every few months...I have occasionally added a bit of palm fertilizer....I get spider mites and spray for them, so they may be a small part of the damage but not actively...

Any advice?

 

20210804_220126.jpg

You should change the entire potting mix. It's obviously fungal contaminated. Cleaned the roots and use an antifungal.Those roots are struggling. Rivularis, contrary to advertised, are not suitable for indoor growing and that's must probably the main reason for its declaine.

Greetings, Luís

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