Cyrtostachys Renda & Areca Vestiaria Maroon from seed

[cristi]

I tried twice to grow from seed Cyrtostachys Renda and Areca Vestiaria Maroon. They germinated very well. They grew very well for about 5 months. Then, they started to get burned tips (especially C. Renda) and spots on leaf (especially A. Vestiaria) and little by little, all of them died. Each try, same result. I suspect that I did something wrong with the soil. Everybody told me to increase humidity, I did it and they died faster. I repeat, died faster. Areca is definitely a faster grower than C. Renda and in my opinion, it looks better. I would like to try again to grow them from seed. What soil would you use for these species? Thanks.

Cyrtostachys Renda

 

 Areca Vestiaria Maroon

Edited May 16, 2016 by cristi

[Pal Meir]

You are IMO correct when you suggest that it may be a problem of soil and not of humidity. I myself killed in the past dozens of palms (esp. Lytocaryum weddellianum) thinking I have to increase the humidity during the winter when the air inside my living rooms was due to the central heating quite dry. And now I don’t matter about humidity at all but only about adequate soil mix and watering. — Cyrtostachys renda is a palm growing in the central tropics in swampy areas. It needs regular watering, but also enough O2 in the water. For small potted plants I would recommend a soil mix with excellent drainage which you can water even daily without getting soggy and producing nitrite. At first you should pot your seedlings in relatively small pots. As layer on the bottom you may use LECA pebbles. And as soil mix I would try something simple like 2/3 pine bark 2-8 mm with 1/3 Seramis® or 1/3 crushed LECA. This mix doesn’t get soggy even if you water the palms many times a day. Good luck!

[Pal Meir]

I can contribute an example from my own experience with Licuala grandis. At first I was worried about the dry air in my rooms and increased the humidity, but the blades of the Licuala got looking worse and worse (pic #1). And when I thought it wouldn’t survive the next winter I changed the entire soil and my watering method (pic #2). With the same soil mix and watering I was also very lucky to get seedlings with nice green leaves without any ugly wilted tips (pic #3).

[cristi]

So 2/3 Pine Bark + 1/3 Seramis/Leca. I can get all ingredinets in my area and I will follow your receipt.

I used peat moss, black peat (a type of peat very popular here very rich in humus) sand and perlite. Indeed the drainage was not very good.

I also have 3 Licuala peltata var. sumawongii seedlings, they stared to look healthy only when I added some dolomite and epson salt. All over the Internat I found articles about humus rich soils, even acidic, but that didn't work for me.

In the (pic #3), did you use any other material beside bark and seramis?

 

 

 

[Pal Meir]

Also in pic #3 only 2/3 pine bark + 1/3 Seramis, with a little bit Kokohum (ca. 5%). — But I wouldn’t use that mix for palms like Chamaerops or Jubaea … There are palm spp I pot in pure mineral soil (e.g. loam + coarse sand for Washingtonia or Ph. canariensis), others I pot in 100% pine bark (e.g. Ch. tuerckheimii).

[Pal Meir]

PS: I added Kokohum® (cocos peat) only when the pots were small clay pots that dried out too fast.

[Hamal]

I concur with Pal's comments. My experience is also that drainage is key to the success with most palms. Some palms are more tolerant to wet feet, some are not tolerant at all. Actually, Cyrtostachys renda does like wet feet, but still good drainage.

In my opinion, the mix of substrate however depends on your climate and the conditions you can offer your palms. For example, I use less organic material in the substrate for palms in my greenhouse, because they get more shade and humidity. For palms outside in full sun, they require more organic material, because the substrate dries much quicker. Also with excellent drainage, you need to water the plants more often.

One other comment, Areca vestiaria seems to be sensitive to the sun, at least while they are young. When I exposed my seedlings to full sunlight only for a few hours, they almost died instantly. They definitely like shade much better.

[Missi]

On 5/16/2016, 9:01:09, Pal Meir said:

I can contribute an example from my own experience with Licuala grandis. At first I was worried about the dry air in my rooms and increased the humidity, but the blades of the Licuala got looking worse and worse (pic #1). And when I thought it wouldn’t survive the next winter I changed the entire soil and my watering method (pic #2). With the same soil mix and watering I was also very lucky to get seedlings with nice green leaves without any ugly wilted tips (pic #3).

@Pal Meir What was the soil mix you originally used with poor results (in pic #1). Also, what is the watering method you used in pics #2 and #3? 

[palmad Merc]

@Pal Meir

I'm growing my vestys in a similar mix to yours,equal parts, coco coir,pine bark,hydro corn (expanded clay )and perlite. Perfect drainage,moisture retention, and light.