Jump to content
IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT ABOUT LOGGING IN ×
  • WELCOME GUEST

    It looks as if you are viewing PalmTalk as an unregistered Guest.

    Please consider registering so as to take better advantage of our vast knowledge base and friendly community.  By registering you will gain access to many features - among them are our powerful Search feature, the ability to Private Message other Users, and be able to post and/or answer questions from all over the world. It is completely free, no “catches,” and you will have complete control over how you wish to use this site.

    PalmTalk is sponsored by the International Palm Society. - an organization dedicated to learning everything about and enjoying palm trees (and their companion plants) while conserving endangered palm species and habitat worldwide. Please take the time to know us all better and register.

    guest Renda04.jpg

Kentiopsis oliviformis


Phil

Recommended Posts

7 hours ago, gtsteve said:

@ExperimentalGrower, It has not moved at all. I didn't even notice a heal when I planted it or since.

From the top side it comes out quite yellow (which I like), before greening up but it is too hard to get that shot.

Interesting! I have a small seedling that is already expressing a significant heal. It seems some species that are known to have heals sometimes also don’t have them in certain specimens. Weird.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, that is quite spectacular, it is good that you have the space to display it well.

Cheers Steve

It is not dead, it is just senescence.

   

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Merlyn said:

My Fallaensis and Macroglossa (probable hybrid per NatureGirl) definitely showed some extra potassium-deficiency yellowing over the winter.  Is that a typical symptom of an alkaline-loving palm unhappy with the local acidic soil?  If so, how much extra dolomitic lime do you add to your Cuban Copernicias?

Potassium deficiency is very common and a constant battle here for cuban copernicias.  This winter, for some reason, was worse than others for my palms.  It seemed kind of wet for winter to me, not sure.   I added sulpomag after dolomitic lime a few weeks back and noticed an immediate greening up in my kentiopsis so I expect their pale nature was partly due to soil pH being low.    Potassium deficiency (yellow/brown)speckeling is permanent so its still there on older leaves, Mg is general yellowing and can be corrected in an older leaf.  I do think that copernicias from cuba are all more difficult to grow in our area and the deficiencies to mine have been even more problematic when they are in pots.  In miami area, the rocky alkaline soil is pretty much what they want.  Because they are such fertilizer pigs, sandy soil is tough and organics keep getting digested in the heat so cation exchange is dleted int he soil.  You need cation exchange to retain potassium in the soil as long as possible.  Differnt plants function in different pH zones as well so its not surprise that palm species have varying preferences to grow their best.  Note the deficiencies in this table for acidic soil   

image.png

  • Like 3
  • Upvote 2

Formerly in Gilbert AZ, zone 9a/9b. Now in Palmetto, Florida Zone 9b/10a??

 

Tom Blank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, sonoranfans said:

Potassium deficiency is very common and a constant battle here for cuban copernicias.  This winter, for some reason, was worse than others for my palms.  It seemed kind of wet for winter to me, not sure.   I added sulpomag after dolomitic lime a few weeks back and noticed an immediate greening up in my kentiopsis so I expect their pale nature was partly due to soil pH being low.

Last winter I didn't notice anything unusual on the Cubans, but this winter they had a lot of potassium yellowing, especially on the Macroglossa.  New leaves look great, but the translucent yellow/orange spots on the older fronds are pretty dramatic.  The box stores only carry regular lawn lime and Sunniland, which appears to be 10% dolomite and 90% calcitic lime.  The only one readily available seems to be a 6.75lb of dolomitic lime "Espoma Garden Lime."  Do you have a preferred source? 

I also have a lot of wood ash from burning all those stumps I've been digging up, that stuff is very basic and pretty high in potassium.  Most plants wouldn't like it, but the Cubans might!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Kentiopsis with this years crop of un-ripe seeds. Plus seedlings from last years crop.

408D2F0B-43DA-4EB0-9108-5BF46E7CD798.jpeg

E898769C-B45C-4F67-9F86-EA755DACC15E.jpeg

60DBE9AD-1749-4823-890A-F6355DE79587.jpeg

  • Like 9

Warrior Palm Princess, Satellite Beach, Florida

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put down 120 lb dolomite rock last year for my two in ground cubans and have used the garden lime, 5 lbs per tree for the cubans.  Kentiopsis got some lesser amounts of garden lime and pulverized limestone.    THe dolomite is slower release over longer times but its good to have.

  • Like 1

Formerly in Gilbert AZ, zone 9a/9b. Now in Palmetto, Florida Zone 9b/10a??

 

Tom Blank

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine has been a steady grower. New leaves are glaucous but it washes out quickly if it rains. I’m hoping mine starts to have that typical upright growth habit, as mine tends to get droopy. My wife doesn’t like the leaves hanging over the walkway. 
 

EC7D70B9-0B8F-4986-9A64-18DED6CDF3EA.thumb.jpeg.38dc6d309b93ec7493442130b259b05d.jpeg
EF5D9D79-04D4-4E88-BC76-0825484B46BE.thumb.jpeg.63df511ac4f84d8fd03f5c942f125ee6.jpeg

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's my KO, bought recently from FishEyeAquaculture.  I had to stake it because a couple of days after planting it was leaned over about 45 degrees.  It was either heavy winds or one of the neighborhood black bears stomping on it.  I'm attributing the slightly yellowed tips to a relatively quick sun acclimation, and of course transplant shock with a wee bit o' bear stomping.  Off the left is an Encephalartos Ituriensis triple, and off to the right is a Bambusa Lako and a big ponytail.  The Lako should give it some shade in the afternoon.

886244819_P1070932KO.thumb.JPG.45e958ec319c7ef0c45a04afb0d2db45.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

I have just bought three very small K O palms which were delivered today. They look very similar to my Dypsis Leptocheilos seedlings

They are to be potted on from their plastic delivery pots and kept out of the sun in my porch for a period of acclimatization. They are far too small to plant out at this time:)

 

SAM_2266.thumb.JPG.d41bfd80aadadcc9e454b3ce82f3ed0f.JPGSAM_2267.thumb.JPG.b6701a58ceeb629a6c1a4c7b47a5b696.JPG

 

Dypsis Leptocheilos seedling

 

SAM_2269.thumb.JPG.ac47b25a626bf6b8f5fdca4cf0758456.JPG

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I gotta couple these too they dont mind growin in the shade.   Theyve been through some cold spells so yeah KOs are gonna be good for future landscaping purposes...

20210813_113210.jpg

20210813_113236.jpg

  • Like 3

Brandon, FL

27.95°N 82.28°W (Elev. 62 ft)

Zone9 w/ canopy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Liluns dont mind the sun either they stay compact lookin vs what i see in my front yard under the shady oak canopy

20210813_113513.jpg

20210813_113609.jpg

20210813_113540.jpg

20210813_113521.jpg

  • Like 1

Brandon, FL

27.95°N 82.28°W (Elev. 62 ft)

Zone9 w/ canopy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Palmə häl′ik said:

gotta couple these too they dont mind growin in the shade.   Theyve been through some cold spells so yeah KOs are gonna be good for future landscaping purposes...

20210813_113210.jpg

 

I'm not sure if it is the shade grown or other cultural reasons, but here in Southern California, once they get to trunking size they seem to hold the crown much tighter and more vertical.  Smaller ones that haven't quite trunked yet have a little lower angle to the lower fronds.  The taller one dropped it's last frond earlier in the day prior to taking the photo, but it was still held tight and erect even the evening before, so it was a bit of a surprise to come out and see it down.

20210812-BH3I5135.jpg

20210812-BH3I5138.jpg

20210812-BH3I5139.jpg

20210812-BH3I5137.jpg

  • Like 6

33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 1/21/2008 at 11:05 PM, Walt said:

My Kentiopsis oliviformis has been in the ground more than three years now.

 

It's been exposed to below 32 degree temperatures on at least two occassions. The first was on 2/14/05 when my open yard temperature dropped to 27 degrees.

 

The second time, on 2/16/07 my open yard temperature was 29 degrees. Both events were radiational. My K. O. is somewhat sheltered by sparse tree canopy, so it may have seen slightly higher temperatures. I don't recall the duration of time below 32 degrees.

 

However, while the foliage seemed to do okay, with some fugal-like spots here and there, my palm seems to have been induced to a state of suspended animation.

 

My K. oliviformis did not open a single frond during 2007. This is a dead clue, from my cold/frost experience with palms, that this palm suffered cold damage. At least that is what I think.

 

I've dealt with so many species of zone 10a/b palms that were cold damaged, and the one thing they all had in common was that their growth rate dropped to about 1/4 of normal. Most never recovered, but languished for months, sometimes years, before sucumbing.

 

I hope that is not the case with my K. oliviformis.

 

This photo was taken prior to 2/14/06, the first time it was exposed to below 32 degree temperatures:

 

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/1510468319042496162FBHFgu

May I ask if your KO didn't grow any leaves for the next year after being frostbitten? Did he come back to life later? I also have some palm trees that still do not grow leaves the second year after being frostbitten by cold currents, but I have not seen any deaths. I am not sure if I should continue to observe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...