Frond collapse

[Born]

I have a Washingtonia Robusta. 
 

It is a strong tree. The “soil” is extremely well-draining and only gets watered when needed. No overwatering; no underwatering. Humidity is at 53% and sits at a South-Facing window. 

Yesterday, as I was filling up my Whole-Room Humidifier, and I noticed the large green frond has folded in like an accordion.

Thoughts on this?

[Allen]

Recently purchased?  If so just doesn't like the move from the greenhouse.

[Born]

I owned this tree for over 1 year.

[spike]

what about the spear, did it pull? I recently had this happen to one as well but I think it may have been because strong winds rocked it and broke some roots. Could be an issue with the crown in your case, but I don't know a whole lot about it.

[Born]

Spear did not pull. This thing is sold as rock; and now this…

[oasis371]

Folding like an accordion is never a good sign.

[Born]

It doesn’t look good at all.

My 4 year old Washingtonia Robusta needs help.

I gave a good tug on the spear, and it did come out. I must have gotten water down the trunk during its last shower. 
 

Do I use peroxide or just let it dry out on its own?

Do I cut the trunk down or leave it?

I need assistance from my Palm Pals please.

 

[Rickybobby]

When palms have done this for me it was from too water and root failure 

[Born]

I water the tree every 1 1/2 weeks. 
 

I live 1 1/2 hours south of Chicago; tree is inside. As it is winter, I only water when it is completely dry. The “soil” is 70% Rectibark, 20% potting soil, 10% perlite. It is a very well-draining medium.

Should I check on the root system?

What is my next step?

[Allen]

Growing slow in a pot you probably lost the palm.    Pull the plant out of the pot and just look at the roots and cut if they are black.  Otherwise if white looking roots just slip back into pot.  You can do the peroxide thing if you want.  I'm not sure about trunk cutting in the pot but it could be done.  I'm just afraid the palm is not growing fast enough.  

[Born]

I will pull the palm out of the pot and check the bottom of the roots. I will post a picture. 

[Rickybobby]

A lot of times we check the top of the soil down to our knuckle not realizing that inches down to the bottom is wet or moist at all times. And it never dries. One thing I have. Been doing indoors during the winter is using a watering can to water only the top and not resatuating the bottom. Washing fertilizer salts etc is not really an issue during the winter indoors and have not had an issue from not doing a full soak. If I do fertilize indoors which I do every few months I give a full soak but since the indoors lacks heat and air movement unless you provide it a full soak can be deadly as the bottom of the pot sits wet and cold 

[Born]

UPDATE:

I took my Washingtonia Robusta out of the pot and as suggested by many of you, it has root rot. 
I have another Washy on its way from South Florida as a replacement.

That said, this was a great lesson for me. I have many palms growing inside my condo, and I have never had this happen before. I will make sure I am more cautious in care all around.

I want to thank everyone who participated in this thread; giving me advice and suggestions. This is what I love so much about this community; we come from all backgrounds and from different countries, but we all have a great appreciation of palms. 
 

I suppose my next step when potting my new Washy is to use a better draining mix. 
 

As a cautionary tale: I used 70% Rectibark, and 20% potting soil, and 10% perlite. As I watered the palm, the 20% soil settled to the bottom of the pot, which trapped all the moisture, which led to the root rot. Before I watered, I dug my fingers through the bark about 3 inches and it was completely bone dry. Little did I know that the 20% soil that settled at the bottom was completely drenched.

Lesson learned! 

[Allen]

sometimes it just happens.  Good luck on the new one.  Good advice on the soil

[Born]

Since this happened, it instigated another look at all my other palms. I took my Trachycarpus Fortnei, which is also bone dry 3 inches down into the Rectibark, and what do you know!!!! All the potting soil is at the bottom and it is drenched! The good thing is that the roots are white and strong. I took out all the drenched potting soil at the bottom. 
 

I will now need to look at all my palms around the condo. This was a great lesson for me, and it allowed me to be proactive in changing everyone’s soggy diapers. 
 

I am now purchasing small clay pebbles to mix in with Rectibark. I will do away with the perlite, as Rectibark and clay pebbles will do the trick. 
 

Any thoughts on just using Rectibark and clay pebbles as a “soil” medium?

Any assistance or guidance or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone!

[Allen]

I am not a palm soil expert.  But here is what I've been using in general on my potted palms (I just repot a few each year).  It seems similar to what you are using but I mainly have water loving tropicals/palms.  Trachy are generally tough water lovers.  I would be interested in hearing a mix for potted Washingtonia robusta as I have one to repot as well.

20% topsoil 

30% pine bark fines (Lowes's soil conditioner)

30% Coarse perlite or Pumice (Up to pea sized)

20% Peat

1/2 oz lime per cubic ft.  

Here is a Trachy that had been in this mix for 3 years.   You can see the mix on the tarp and look at those roots!

Edited February 26, 2022 by Allen

[Born]

Beautiful Trachy Allen. 
 

I have noticed when I use perlite, it comes to the top and the soil goes to the bottom.

I am going to experiment with:

1) Rectibark 

2) Montmorillonite Clay bits

3) Expanded Clay pellets

[Allen]

I have used the clay pellets too.  They are ok.  Rectibark I'll have to look into.  

[Born]

Rectibark is a sterile wood from PetSmart or PetCo. They are used for lizards and other similar reptiles. Great stuff!

[PalmsandLiszt]

15 hours ago, Born said:

I have noticed when I use perlite, it comes to the top and the soil goes to the bottom.

It does, although only from the upper regions of the pot, although this still drives fine particles down. Pumice is much better (although rather more expensive), and stays put. I also always put a thin layer of leca on the bottoms of pots so that fine silt build up gets flushed away (the fact it's leca doesn't matter; you could use small stones). You still need something that will bind to essential nutrients, though; I'm not familiar with your clay things, but if they are like leca, crush some of them for your main medium to improve nutrient retention.