Jump to content
IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT ABOUT LOGGING IN ×
  • WELCOME GUEST

    It looks as if you are viewing PalmTalk as an unregistered Guest.

    Please consider registering so as to take better advantage of our vast knowledge base and friendly community.  By registering you will gain access to many features - among them are our powerful Search feature, the ability to Private Message other Users, and be able to post and/or answer questions from all over the world. It is completely free, no “catches,” and you will have complete control over how you wish to use this site.

    PalmTalk is sponsored by the International Palm Society. - an organization dedicated to learning everything about and enjoying palm trees (and their companion plants) while conserving endangered palm species and habitat worldwide. Please take the time to know us all better and register.

    guest Renda04.jpg

Chainsaw time? I think so!


Billy

Recommended Posts

So this is the only part of the property that doesn’t have palms…I think it’s time to dig out around the base of these stumps and chainsaw em to the ground. :evil:My question is how can I go about getting rid of them roots and all without damaging the cinder block wall behind em. I’ve got a few ideas but I’m curious to hear what the more experienced have to say. It’s exciting just thinking of a whole new row of palms. 

5791C158-E9EB-42AE-B482-FDFEECB5C153.jpeg

210CE241-9584-4AC1-B5DF-6C550A829665.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Billy said:

... My question is how can I go about getting rid of them roots and all without damaging the cinder block wall behind em. I’ve got a few ideas but I’m curious to hear what the more experienced have to say. ...

Stump grinder for most of what can be reached before getting too close to the wall, and a digging bar for the rest; minus any pipes... as I can see the sprinkler heads.

Ryan

South Florida

Link to comment
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, Billy said:

So this is the only part of the property that doesn’t have palms…I think it’s time to dig out around the base of these stumps and chainsaw em to the ground. :evil:My question is how can I go about getting rid of them roots and all without damaging the cinder block wall behind em. I’ve got a few ideas but I’m curious to hear what the more experienced have to say. It’s exciting just thinking of a whole new row of palms. 

5791C158-E9EB-42AE-B482-FDFEECB5C153.jpeg

210CE241-9584-4AC1-B5DF-6C550A829665.jpeg

Will depend on what the stumpys are ( Look like Eugenia, but hard to tell from the angle )  If something relatively soft/ easier to cut,  could use a digging bar, after chopping / grinding out the rest..  Could also invest in a good quality  > Steel handle <  Cap Rock Shovel to cut through the roots as well.. ( is my personally favored option.. Won't ever catch me w/ a digging bar. )  Because Cap Rock Shovels are generally straight / flat bladed, can cut roots right up to the Cinder / Block w/ less concern for damaging / undercutting it ( if you used a standard shovel ).

Would work on harder - wooded things too, but a saws all might be better in that case..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don’t even waste your time. Chain saw them all to flush and go rent a stump grinder at HD or the like for $125 a day. Those aren’t close to the wall. There’s plenty of room. I’ve done this dozens of times. 
 

what I personally would do is stump grind everything and dispose of or move out 1/2 of the chippings left behind then return the equipment. Then pick up a tiller, some cactus mix, organics and good soil to till the entire area mixing in the new medium with the fresh chippings. You should be good to go for whatever palms you want to plant. 
 

-dale

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, richnorm said:

I would cut flush and drill a few holes to fill with woody weedkiller then mulch over the top and let them rot.

Leaving the stumps and roots in will work and they do eventually break down but then you have other frustrating problems.

If left in, those stump locations will then determine where your next trees will go. I don’t particularly like having to change a layout because of stumps. And I think we’ve all had to dig holes where we end up digging thru massive roots. Nobody likes that. 
 

If I left those in, I would forever wish I took the time and removed them to start over fresh. They’d be in the way for many, many years. Just my 2 pennies
 

-dale

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stump grinding is the safe way…if it was me I would use a strap and yank them out with my truck.  I have done it plenty of times with shrubs, palms, etc. Especially if I was going to replant. Repair wall as needed. The only time I ever ground a stump out was a 40-50 year old water oak that fell apart. Paid a guy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My neighbor has a row of those on our property line... They play hell with my sewer line, which is just inside my property.... So I'm assuming, the roots go pretty deep...

Butch

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, Silas_Sancona said:

Will depend on what the stumpys are ( Look like Eugenia, but hard to tell from the angle )  If something relatively soft/ easier to cut,  could use a digging bar, after chopping / grinding out the rest..  Could also invest in a good quality  > Steel handle <  Cap Rock Shovel to cut through the roots as well.. ( is my personally favored option.. Won't ever catch me w/ a digging bar. )  Because Cap Rock Shovels are generally straight / flat bladed, can cut roots right up to the Cinder / Block w/ less concern for damaging / undercutting it ( if you used a standard shovel ).

Would work on harder - wooded things too, but a saws all might be better in that case..

I like this option.  It allows you to get out at least the larger portion of the roots so they don't come back.  Our soil is so easy to dig that things come out easily.  When I started planting my garden, I "discovered" large stumps from trees that had been cut down in my yard by the previous owners.  The house had been in the family since the 1950's and when the mom passed the daughter and her husband tore out many of the old plantings and did a partial job of replanting, and buried all the tree stumps a couple of inches under the soil.  You probably saw some of the activity back about 15 to 20 years ago when they were cleaning up the property.  Bottom line, they ground old trees to stumps, but the stumps were still problematic for me in my palm placements.  I used a digging bar as opposed to the Cap Rock Shovel to remove the larger stumps and roots, but digging in this Leucadia soil, at least this corner where we live is a piece of cake.

You won't have to worry about placement of your palms if you get the larger rootballs out too.  If you are looking for palm suggestions for a narrow space along a fence line, I would highly recommend putting a Ravenea julietiae along there.  It could go right along close to the stemwall and fence without having fronds having to deform to fit into the space.  Clumping Dypsis would also be a consideration, with Dypsis heteromorpha being tops on my list and the best looking clumping Dypsis in my garden, so you would be assured it would do well in yours.  The only downside to the D heteromporpha is they are very vigorous on putting out new trunks, so you would need to plan for a larger footprint than some of the others.

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1

33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Give cannabis to some gophers and let the munchies do the rest :innocent:

  • Like 4

Coral Gables, FL 8 miles North of Fairchild USDA Zone 10B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The first thing that you should do is to poison them with Glyphosate before you remove any more foliage.

Get some poison into the roots first. They will die and rot faster that way.  Glypho will enter through the green leaves not through the bark.  And it is not residual.

I would actually let them get more leaves first. That's how to get rid of running bamboo too, cut it let it recover wonderfully, then hit it with Glypho, new leaves suck that stuff up.

 

 

 

  • Upvote 1

Cheers Steve

It is not dead, it is just senescence.

   

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/19/2022 at 10:21 AM, Billy said:

I think it’s time to dig out around the base of these stumps and chainsaw em to the ground. :evil:My question is how can I go about getting rid of them roots and all without damaging the cinder block wall behind em. I’ve got a few ideas but I’m curious to hear what the more experienced have to say. It’s exciting just thinking of a whole new row of palms.

 

5 hours ago, Steve Mac said:

They will die and rot faster that way.  Glypho will enter through the green leaves not through the bark.  And it is not residual.

I would actually let them get more leaves first. That's how to get rid of running bamboo too, cut it let it recover wonderfully, then hit it with Glypho, new leaves suck that stuff up.

Initially I didn't like the idea of leaving large roots in to decay and preferred the options using more manual labor.  After walking by this morning and seeing it is in your front yard and looking at the large adjacent grass area, I have to wonder how critical it is to get any more of the roots than is needed to kill plants and make sure you don't get new sprouts?  I don't know how resilient these Eugenia are but suspect it won't take much to kill them.  Once dead you can let nature do it's work on anything you can't get with the chainsaw.

I would be inclined to plant your palms further north into the grass area, not as close as these Eugenia's were to the wall and fence.  Visually, it will be more appealing too.  Unless you are playing soccer in the front yard, you can move the edge of the grass further back a few feet and have a much bigger planter area for palms and assorted plants.  Based on the exposure, you can plant a wide variety of palms that don't want late afternoon sun.  After your palms are planted, you can do some other plantings where these Eugenias were growing to vary the height, or create another visual block of the fence & wall if that was the goal.  You have a big canvas you can play with out front if you want to.  Have fun with the project whatever you decide.

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1

33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My stump grinder guy uses this:

https://www.alpinemagnum.com/

He grinded down a few Hollywood Juniper stumps that were 18' diameter that were right next to my wall.  No problem at all.  From you pictures it should be easy.  Let me know if you want his number.  Don't know if he works down in SD.

 

  • Like 4

Huntington Beach, CA

USDA Zone 10a/10b

Sunset Zone 24

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IN my landscaping days I would protect walls, sides of a house, and any other areas with a cheap piece of plywood.  Just toss a piece of plywood against the block wall when grinding..... using a stump grinder you'll be protected.

  • Like 3

Dana Point Tropicals - C-27 License #906810

(949) 542-0999

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, joe_OC said:

My stump grinder guy uses this:

https://www.alpinemagnum.com/

He grinded down a few Hollywood Juniper stumps that were 18' diameter that were right next to my wall.  No problem at all.  From you pictures it should be easy.  Let me know if you want his number.  Don't know if he works down in SD.

 

Joe... I would be interested your grinding guy's number... I have a big foxtail, that SCE keeps threatening to take down, but leave the stump... It's in a planter inaccessible to a regular stump grinder, but that Alpine one would work great there... I'm not sure when SCE is gonna do the dirty deed, but it is gonna eventually happen... Sorry about the thread jack...

Butch

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would go stump grinder if the terrain allows. I can tell you from experience having (6) 35ft+ tree size Eugenia and probably 8 bush sized, they are very resistant to chemical means. Many years ago a tree trimmer removed two and ground the stumps (which never returned), and took one down to a ground level stump, drilled several holes in the stump (approx. 14-16 inches diameter), filled holes with brush killer concentrate, then sealed that with mastic. This was because it was on a hillside slope where they couldn't safely use a stump grinder. It still grew back around the sides and is now one of the many bush sized I mentioned. The others that were ground were never seen again. On a side note, the ones I have produce so much fruit it becomes a nuisance and can build up moldy rotting fruit around the base a couple of inches deep and easily cause dozens of new seedlings to sprout each season where conditions are right.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...