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Sacred Ground 2 1: Oak Flat ...Resillance, in the face of an uncertain future
By
Silas_Sancona, in OHANA NUI - OFF TOPIC SUB-FORUM
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By Joe The Palm
Here are a few pictures I took on my trip to the Southwest back in June. I find this area of the nation different and kind of enchanting specifically along Interstate 8
Two pics of a date farm and California fan palms taken in the Imperial Valley near El Centro, CA
A pic of the border with Mexico taken near Jacumba Hot Springs, CA
A pic of sand dunes near Glamis, CA
A pic of two Robustas in Yuma, AZ
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By Silas_Sancona
I've shown the landscapes, now it's time to take a look at some of the plants observed both in Oak Flat, and while hiking to / from the lower end of Devil's Canyon.. As mentioned, pretty good diversity of plants there, and no doubt, walking around looking for stuff twice ( so far ) is just scratching the surface.. I'm sure there are more things to be found. Regardless..
As mentioned in the video and article i'd linked, Mining development of the area will result in a 2.5 mile wide crater, approx. 1,000ft deep, or is what is estimated, based on the mining technique that has been discussed. ( " Block " mining, 7k ft below the surface ..and allowing the land to eventually subside < into the voids created below ground >.. Then extracting more material before abandoning and not being able to repair what damage will be done ) Aside from ..everything else that will be lost -forever-, so too will the botanical, and animal biodiversity in this area..
While some things can be found elsewhere pretty easily, other things are already facing climate- related challenges and erasing what bits and pieces might be left just sounds completely irrational, imo..
Hopefully the plants < and other, more valuable things > win this battle for survival. There are far less sensitive areas in the state to pursue precious metals. Waffled back and forth on whether or not to put this chapter in the " other " plants section, but have decided to keep it here..
Trees:
Emory Oak, Quercus emoryi Where Oak Flat got it's name.. Has been a significant part of Indigenous culture and diet for as long as humans have occupied the region. Native from AZ. / N.M/ far West TX. to Durango and San Luis Potosi, Mexico.. Acorns are sweet and supposedly don't require as much processing to get to perfectly usable. Western Apache Tribe, and other local people have gathered and tended the trees here for generations. There is even a Tribe - initiated collaborative ( EOTCRI = Emory Oak Tribal Collaborative Restoration Initiative ) that teaches how to restore and maintain these trees. " Stand " of Emory Oak here is considered the best / healthiest old growth grove in the entire state. Was hoping there would be a few Acorns to collect to carry on the genetics of these trees, especially if all are clear cut, as planned, when Resolution ( Mining Company ) starts their mining operations - if this is the outcome.
Lots of diversity in sizes in this Oak here including numerous very old and " dwarfed " specimens up on the seemingly solid rock table top above the campground.
Typical look of old growth trees in the flat..
Stunted ..and rather stunning looking " Mini - Trees " up on the Table Top...
Single - leaf Pinyon, Pinus monophylla.. Had seen an observation or two of specimens here on iNat. and was hoping to see them w/ my own eyes.. To get to " Pinyon Country " in many parts of the state, one has to travel a bit further out than the distance from Phoenix to the Flat / Canyon. While not extensive in area occupied, plenty of nice, old specimens, esp growing among the boulders near / in the Hackberry Creek area. Unfortunately, while there were lots of older cones in many specimens, no fresh / just ripened cones to access seed from. Like many Pines, Cones on Pinyon take their time to develop ..somewhere in the range of 18-22 months.. Seeds are enclosed in " softer " shells, and typically have a shorter shelf life after ripening. That said, Pinyon nuts, are superior to traditional Pine Nuts ( usually harvest from Italian Stone Pine, Pinus pinea ) and are considered quite a valuable crop.
Like many other Pines, Pinyon, as a whole, face numerous challenges.. While much more extensive in the past, Pinyon - Juniper Woodlands have been inching upward as temperatures across the Southwest have warmed.. Major fires in places like New Mexico, Colorado, and here in Arizona have also wiped former tracts of this habitat from different areas. Humans have also done their part in eliminating groves by cutting and clearing land of trees. Several animals, including the Pinyon Jay, which is critical to dispersing seed, depend on Pinyon almost exclusively.
As interesting as Pinyons are, Pinus monophylla adds to the uniqueness of the Genus ( ..and overall Family ) by being the only species of Pine possessing a single needle per Fascicle / bundle.
Walking around, looking for specimens, saw several smaller trees scattered about suggesting there is at least some level of on- going recruitment occurring out here.. Sad to think all of them may not survive past the next decade, ...a mere " half- second " in their total lifespan.. Hopefully this little guy i almost stepped on won't face that future, Would be neat to see again in 25-35 years... ( if i'm still alive, lol )
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By Silas_Sancona
Onto part 2... A Saturday trip to yet another hidden gem in Arizona's scenic crown, which also faces an uncertain future..
While Oak Flat itself is, ..er, ..rather flat, can't say the same thing once you venture away from the Campground / adjacent " table top " area directly south of the campground. Hike in far enough and you will likely end up taking in awe inspiring views of massive rock formations, many referred to as " Hoodoos" silently standing guard over a narrow but deeply cut canyon that traces the eastern boundary of Oak Flat.
Devil's Canyon is one of those " surprise " spots in the state which might be known to some, but not necessarily to all. It is also an extremely popular climbing location which, if you viewed the video included in the link in part 1, was part of the biggest annual climbing competition, held in Oak Flat for 15 years, in the world.. That tells you something about the location..
Like the flat, Devil's Canyon also faces being destroyed by the same potential mining development, though perhaps to a lesser extent ( not that less damage is any less significant ).. Regardless, access to the area will be permanently cut off ( at least ) Can see numerous spots where " exploratory " drilling / road cutting is already taking place as you hike out to the canyon itself.
While there essentially 3 access points to the canyon rim from Oak Flat, the best area, for viewing the largest concentration of rock formations, is the lower section, and was where i headed Saturday. From the flat, the hike is approx 6 miles one way..
From another spot, where i started Saturday's hike, via Hackberry Creek.. which is accessed by driving a mile or two further southwest along the main ( paved ) road from Oak Flat ( Park where the pond is located on Google Earth / Maps, at a pull off at the hairpin in the road.. ). From there, hiking distance to the lower portion of the canyon is roughly cut in half.. Terrain, as mentioned, is still a workout though ..made more of a workout by June's Telegraph Fire / rest of this summer's rains.. Do your homework because trails are not marked and one or two wrong trails taken will take you many miles off track.. I myself noted where i'd see the most shoe prints, etc marks of frequent trail use.. and took lots of pictures for future reference.
There is also a side trail somewhere near the beginning along Hackberry Creek that, if followed, will take you west directly up a canyon to the top of Apache Leap ( Supposedly a roughly 2 or 3 mile hike, by google earth measurements anyway < could be off by a bit obviously > ). Fire might make locating it a bit difficult.. Wasn't obvious to me, though i have an idea of where it might start... Anyway..
Access to the upper ( more east / north along it than higher in elevation ) parts of the canyon are easier / less hiking time from the flat. Can camp at any of the access points. Bet views of sunset / sunrise / the stars are spectacular.
Hike in, Starting from the pond at Hackberry Creek ( would you call it Hackberry Pond? / Lake? ) An ATV / ORV or really tough truck could probably get further in compared to most vehicles.. Note the effects ..and resilience of the landscape post fire along the way ( Torched a much wider area of the landscape out here compared to the Flat ). Was also told by someone i talked with out there the pond? was dry in June.
Views of Pinal Peak, to the east of the Flat/ Devil's Canyon.. Telegraph Fire went up and over the peak as well..
Stock pond / long abandoned windmill / Cattle Corral in the Valley below the last big hill... Getting closer.. Head left, not right..
Final leg of the trail..
Just about there....
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