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9a privacy tree suggestions?


Keys6505

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I have about 60-70' of fenceline that is relatively close to the neighboring house.  There is currently old oleanders planted along the entire fence that provide really good privacy, but the previous owners let them grow out of control.  I cleaned up everything that was hanging too far into my yard which exposed all of the bare sideways branches and it looks pretty bad.  I'm not a fan of the oleanders to begin with and I'd like to phase them out over time by removing every 3rd or 4th bush at a time and letting something new fill the space before removing more so as not to lose all of the privacy.  I'm not very familiar with 9a trees and I know there are a lot of tree posts on here so I was hoping I could get some suggestions.  My characteristic wish list is as follows:

- Looking for privacy above a fence, so I'd like the tree to be somewhere in the 20' max range so it wouldn't eventually get so tall that it grew past the privacy range

-can handle clay soil

-doesnt drop leaves in winter

-fast growing

-the more tropical/exotic looking the better!

 

 

 

 

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My first thought is Ficus Auriculata / Roxburghii, but it is not leaf hardy to 9a.  It'll grow as a perennial in 8b but dies to the ground in a cold 9a.  However, Plant Delights sells a very similar one that they call Ficus Palmata "Icebox."  They claim it's a dieback perennial down to zone 7b, so it might not be deciduous in 9a.  I plan to try it here on the NW side or Orlando (9b/9a border). 

For a good hedge you might consider Viburnum Odoratissimum.  I'm not sure how leaf hardy it is, but it's claimed for zones 8-10.  I've not seen damage on brief 25F dips.  They grow pretty quick, have nice glossy green leaves, and can be easily pruned.  They'll even regrow from a stump if you hack it off at 6' tall.

I've recently planted a few bamboo, and ones like Bambusa Maligensis (Seabreeze) are hardy to 15F.  Others that make good hedges at 6' and up are Bambusa Dissimulator "Dragon's Nest" at 18F rated, Bambusa Eutuldoides Viridi-Vittata (Asian Lemon) at 21F rated, and Bambusa Tuldoides "Swollen Internode" at 15F rated.  There are a ton of 9b options, but not a lot of 9a options.  Bambusa Textilis "Gracilis" is common and 15F rated, it makes a good dense hedge but doesn't do much for noise levels.  Seabreeze is much better at that.  If you consider a bamboo don't go for any of the "big timber" types (Chungii, Kanapaha, Mutabilis, Ventricosa Kimmei, etc) because they have basically no branches below 10-15'.  With a fenceline and 2 story house next door, that 6-15' height is critical for privacy.

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My suggestion is pineapple guava(Acca sellowiana), its evergreen and tropical looking without leaf drop. They are common in cultivation, drought hardy and easily shaped. Yaupon holly(Ilex vomitoria) is a good choice for a native.

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Second Pineapple Guava, and/or Osmanthus. Pineapple Guava will offer up edible Flowers/Fruit as well. Would also take a look at what is being grown by the John Fairey Garden ( formally Peckerwood ) for unusual exotic options you're likely not going to find at most nurseries.

When you decide to get rid of the oleander, don't forget to use gloves/ goggles. Nasty stuff.

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17 minutes ago, Silas_Sancona said:

Second Pineapple Guava, and/or Osmanthus. Pineapple Guava will offer up edible Flowers/Fruit as well. Would also take a look at what is being grown by the John Fairey Garden ( formally Peckerwood ) for unusual exotic options you're likely not going to find at most nurseries.

When you decide to get rid of the oleander, don't forget to use gloves/ goggles. Nasty stuff.

I'm a big fan of pineapple guava, the plant is very versatile and can handle all sorts of environments.

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1 minute ago, amh said:

I'm a big fan of pineapple guava, the plant is very versatile and can handle all sorts of environments.

It is.. You can keep it tightly trimmed ( personally not a fan of such a look ) or allow it to grow taller and open up the lower portion of it to draw interest to the trunks/branches, while having plenty of green cover up top to provide the privacy wanted. Never needs a ton of water to look good either.

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If you don't mind a taller tree to around 35' that still maintains lower branches you could try the native Prunus caroliniana (cherry laurel).  Grows fast, evergreen glossy leaves and does well in boggy clay soils.  Very common in East Texas and even grows well here in dry SA.

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Jon Sunder

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25 minutes ago, Silas_Sancona said:

It is.. You can keep it tightly trimmed ( personally not a fan of such a look ) or allow it to grow taller and open up the lower portion of it to draw interest to the trunks/branches, while having plenty of green cover up top to provide the privacy wanted. Never needs a ton of water to look good either.

I considered mentioning this in your "The allure, .. of bark" thread.

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3 hours ago, Keys6505 said:

I have about 60-70' of fenceline that is relatively close to the neighboring house.  There is currently old oleanders planted along the entire fence that provide really good privacy, but the previous owners let them grow out of control.  I cleaned up everything that was hanging too far into my yard which exposed all of the bare sideways branches and it looks pretty bad.  I'm not a fan of the oleanders to begin with and I'd like to phase them out over time by removing every 3rd or 4th bush at a time and letting something new fill the space before removing more so as not to lose all of the privacy.  I'm not very familiar with 9a trees and I know there are a lot of tree posts on here so I was hoping I could get some suggestions.  My characteristic wish list is as follows:

- Looking for privacy above a fence, so I'd like the tree to be somewhere in the 20' max range so it wouldn't eventually get so tall that it grew past the privacy range

-can handle clay soil

-doesnt drop leaves in winter

-fast growing

-the more tropical/exotic looking the better!

 

 

 

 

How about a bunch of weeping bottlebrush whose canopies you don’t raise?

 

post edited - said “pittosporum”, meant “bottlebrush”

Edited by ahosey01
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7 minutes ago, ahosey01 said:

How about a bunch of weeping bottlebrush whose canopies you don’t raise?

 

post edited - said “pittosporum”, meant “bottlebrush”

Great idea, but I'm not sure if it is 9A hardy.

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22 minutes ago, amh said:

Great article. Thanks for posting the link! I guess my Feijoa sellowiana (aka pineapple guava) has a few more decades of growth before it reaches those dimensions! For me where I live, since it's evergreen this tree provides useful shade for plants that cannot take full summer sun and a few degrees of winter frost protection. Not as excited about the fruit as the local squirrels are though!

PineappleGuava2021.png

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Just now, Hillizard said:

Great article. Thanks for posting the link! I guess my Feijoa sellowiana (aka pineapple guava) has a few more decades of growth before it reaches those dimensions! For me where I live, since it's evergreen this tree provides useful shade for plants that cannot take full summer sun and a few degrees of winter frost protection. Not as excited about the fruit as the local squirrels are though!

Ive been growing these as shrubs, but I love these as trees, I came across that article a while back and decide I must grow a few as trees.

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1 minute ago, amh said:

Ive been growing these as shrubs, but I love these as trees, I came across that article a while back and decide I must grow a few as trees.

Mine came with the house when I bought it. Glad I didn't remove this one when I redid the backyard garden. It takes severe spring pruning very well, so I'm keeping it as a pollarded tree. Red flowers attract hummingbirds too, which is a plus.

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11 minutes ago, amh said:

Have seen this designer's projects before.. though not this specific article..  Only thing i'd do differently is attaching Tillandsia/Orchids directly to the trunks/ branches rather than building something extra either within such a tree, or to the adjacent fence..

I know some people like wood fencing but sold on block walls.. Can't count how many fences i have had a hand in replacing when they blow down in storms/ due to age. Blocks won't move unless someone runs into them, lol.  While kind of boring, already thought out ideas to "liven up the look " so to say of the side of the wall that faces into the yard by working in stuff like rough Limestone/ TX. Holey Rock, Aragocrete, and/or Lava Rock to the face of the wall to give it a more natural look, plus have lots of cracks/ crevices to plant stuff into. Would be easy to run a couple misting lines along the top of the wall also.  Open space below/ between such a privacy screen would be for stuff like Clivia / various, entire leaf Chamaedorea sp., Ferns, etc..

 

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2 minutes ago, Silas_Sancona said:

Have seen this designer's projects before.. though not this specific article..  Only thing i'd do differently is attaching Tillandsia/Orchids directly to the trunks/ branches rather than building something extra either within such a tree, or to the adjacent fence..

I know some people like wood fencing but sold on block walls.. Can't count how many fences i have had a hand in replacing when they blow down in storms/ due to age. Blocks won't move unless someone runs into them, lol.  While kind of boring, already thought out ideas to "liven up the look " so to say of the side of the wall that faces into the yard by working in stuff like rough Limestone/ TX. Holey Rock, Aragocrete, and/or Lava Rock to the face of the wall to give it a more natural look, plus have lots of cracks/ crevices to plant stuff into. Would be easy to run a couple misting lines along the top of the wall also.  Open space below/ between such a privacy screen would be for stuff like Clivia / various, entire leaf Chamaedorea sp., Ferns, etc..

 

I've found the bark on this tree species sheds annually, so Tillandsias/Orchids would need to be attached via wire/string. I agree with you about using wall material that has cracks and crevices. That would also provide shelter for insects and lizards, which is a plus to me at least.

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25 minutes ago, amh said:

Great idea, but I'm not sure if it is 9A hardy.

My neighbor’s got a couple here in 9A and they look fine.  UofA in Tucson has got some giant ones that are probably decades old and that’s 9A too.

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1 minute ago, Hillizard said:

I've found the bark on this tree species sheds annually, so Tillandsias/Orchids would need to be attached via wire/string. I agree with you about using wall material that has cracks and crevices. That would also provide shelter for insects and lizards, which is a plus to me at least.

Definitely great for providing habitat..  Have floated the idea of using some of the smaller native " Shrub/scrub " Oaks for such a project idea also since Pineapple Guavas do shed their bark. Some Orchids would probably wrap themselves pretty firmly to it over time though.

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18 minutes ago, ahosey01 said:

My neighbor’s got a couple here in 9A and they look fine.  UofA in Tucson has got some giant ones that are probably decades old and that’s 9A too.

No problems in 8A, mine have seen 8-115F with no damage.

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27 minutes ago, ahosey01 said:

My neighbor’s got a couple here in 9A and they look fine.  UofA in Tucson has got some giant ones that are probably decades old and that’s 9A too.

 

7 minutes ago, amh said:

No problems in 8A, mine have seen 8-115F with no damage.

They're great for the flowers ( Bees, Hummingbirds.. and even House/Purple Finches love them ), tolerance to cold/heat/ drought but a bit thin for a privacy screen option, imo.. Pretty much every place i lived out in CA. used them as large "patio type " trees/ screening.. Had a tough time growing things below them as well. 

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3 minutes ago, Silas_Sancona said:

They're great for the flowers ( Bees, Hummingbirds.. and even House/Purple Finches love them ), tolerance to cold/heat/ drought but a bit thin for a privacy screen option, imo.. Pretty much every place i lived out in CA. used them as large "patio type " trees/ screening.. Had a tough time growing things below them as well. 

You are correct about them being a bit thin, but I haven't had trouble going anything below. Is this an allelopathy issue or something else?

 

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5 hours ago, Keys6505 said:

I have about 60-70' of fenceline that is relatively close to the neighboring house.  There is currently old oleanders planted along the entire fence that provide really good privacy, but the previous owners let them grow out of control.  I cleaned up everything that was hanging too far into my yard which exposed all of the bare sideways branches and it looks pretty bad.  I'm not a fan of the oleanders to begin with and I'd like to phase them out over time by removing every 3rd or 4th bush at a time and letting something new fill the space before removing more so as not to lose all of the privacy.  I'm not very familiar with 9a trees and I know there are a lot of tree posts on here so I was hoping I could get some suggestions.  My characteristic wish list is as follows:

- Looking for privacy above a fence, so I'd like the tree to be somewhere in the 20' max range so it wouldn't eventually get so tall that it grew past the privacy range

-can handle clay soil

-doesnt drop leaves in winter

-fast growing

-the more tropical/exotic looking the better!

 

 

 

 

I forgot to ask the most important question for anyone in Texas, whats your deer situation?

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10 minutes ago, amh said:

You are correct about them being a bit thin, but I haven't had trouble going anything below. Is this an allelopathy issue or something else?

 

That's a good question.. In past experiences back in CA., having trouble growing stuff below them could have more to do w/ the soil in those particular yards  since i'd had a large Weeping Bottlebrush in my courtyard, just outside my apartment in Largo, and it was surrounded by feral Sansavera / weedy ferns, other stuff that seemed fine..

Foliage does contain certain terpenes though and retains the distinct smell -for a little while at least- after it is shed, like Eucalyptus.

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20 minutes ago, Silas_Sancona said:

That's a good question.. In past experiences back in CA., having trouble growing stuff below them could have more to do w/ the soil in those particular yards  since i'd had a large Weeping Bottlebrush in my courtyard, just outside my apartment in Largo, and it was surrounded by feral Sansavera / weedy ferns, other stuff that seemed fine..

Foliage does contain certain terpenes though and retains the distinct smell -for a little while at least- after it is shed, like Eucalyptus.

I was writing about the pineapple guavas, the bottle brush wont handle 8a, but will defoliate and survive 8b.

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League City is 9b or warm 9a if you're really conservative.

Callistemon viminalis should do fine. I've seen them for years in Houston.

Even better imo is Cordia boisierri (Texas/Mexican Olive). 

 

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Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

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3 hours ago, Fusca said:

If you don't mind a taller tree to around 35' that still maintains lower branches you could try the native Prunus caroliniana (cherry laurel).  Grows fast, evergreen glossy leaves and does well in boggy clay soils.  Very common in East Texas and even grows well here in dry SA.

I've come to really appreciate Prunus caroliniana more recently. Bulletproof/drought hardy with rich green leaves that don't fade even through hard freezes. Very underutilized IMO. I've heard they even respond well to hedging.

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China doll (Radermachera sinica) is different and tropical looking. Grows well (maybe a bit too well?) but can be a little messy. 

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Jonathan

Katy, TX (Zone 9a)

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8 hours ago, Merlyn said:

My first thought is Ficus Auriculata / Roxburghii, but it is not leaf hardy to 9a.  It'll grow as a perennial in 8b but dies to the ground in a cold 9a.  However, Plant Delights sells a very similar one that they call Ficus Palmata "Icebox."  They claim it's a dieback perennial down to zone 7b, so it might not be deciduous in 9a.  I plan to try it here on the NW side or Orlando (9b/9a border)

I looked up the "icebox" Ficus, leaf drop or not I'm probably going to give it a shot.  Thanks for the recommendation.  I have a Roxburghii in ground.  This is the first winter so it's been mild but even the few minor frosts we've had left the leaves pretty crispy.

 

6 hours ago, Silas_Sancona said:

When you decide to get rid of the oleander, don't forget to use gloves/ goggles. Nasty stuff.

Yup, learned that the hard way when I cut them back.  Trip to the dermatologist and everything.

 

5 hours ago, ahosey01 said:

How about a bunch of weeping bottlebrush whose canopies you don’t raise?

This was actually one of the few I already had in mind.  I can't seem to find them anywhere locally at a decent size, although it's not really the season for it.  I saw some when I visited my parents in the Villages in FL and they were pretty thick.

 

4 hours ago, amh said:

forgot to ask the most important question for anyone in Texas, whats your deer situation?

No deer in my development, just hoards of fluffy tailed tree rats.  This is why some of the fruiting suggestions scare me, I'm afraid they'll invite their friends.  I've never had problems with squirrels before, but here they literally kill my plants for sport.  They'll yank up my Colocasia, rip the palm trunks apart for nesting material, chew plants off at the base, they developed a taste for R. Rivularis roots, it's ridiculous.

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I grew Ficus palmata for a while here. If I had a bigger property I would plant it and leave it alone to see what it turns into, but I did not find it attractive enough to waste space here. It will probably be at least partially deciduous for you.

I have Brachychiton rupestris, and it is awesome! When a small seedling it may freeze back in a severe freeze, but once it puts on some size it can easily take low 20s. Mine is over 20 feet tall and starting to get a nice trunk.

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50 minutes ago, Keys6505 said:

No deer in my development, just hoards of fluffy tailed tree rats.  This is why some of the fruiting suggestions scare me, I'm afraid they'll invite their friends.  I've never had problems with squirrels before, but here they literally kill my plants for sport.  They'll yank up my Colocasia, rip the palm trunks apart for nesting material, chew plants off at the base, they developed a taste for R. Rivularis roots, it's ridiculous.

A pellet rifle or cats will cure that situation.

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36 minutes ago, necturus said:

I have Brachychiton rupestris, and it is awesome! When a small seedling it may freeze back in a severe freeze, but once it puts on some size it can easily take low 20s. Mine is over 20 feet tall and starting to get a nice trunk.

How old is it?  Growth rate?  Pics????

 

27 minutes ago, amh said:

A pellet rifle or cats will cure that situation.

Not sure my neighbors would appreciate either!  I've trapped 7 in the past year (and 11 possums) but I drop them off a few miles away.

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1 minute ago, Keys6505 said:

Not sure my neighbors would appreciate either!  I've trapped 7 in the past year (and 11 possums) but I drop them off a few miles away.

If you have a privacy hedge, they wont know.;)

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11 hours ago, necturus said:

I grew Ficus palmata for a while here. If I had a bigger property I would plant it and leave it alone to see what it turns into, but I did not find it attractive enough to waste space here. It will probably be at least partially deciduous for you.

About what temperature did your Ficus Palmata defoliate?  I am borderline 9b/9a and routinely see 27-28F dips in the winter, usually 1 or 2 nights per year.  For example, this year I had 28F with frost on Christmas night, but no other nights below 31F so far.  Ficus Elastica (rubber plant) defoliated anything exposed to frost, but 2 small plants will probably grow back fast.  Ficus Lyrata and sea grapes did the same with the top foot of leaves, but everything else is pretty much okay.  A seedling Ficus Benghalensis completely defoliated and might not survive.  I've purchased some Ficus Auriculata / Roxburghii to trial this year, and was thinking of adding Ficus Palmata "Icebox" too.

Brachychiton rupestris sounds like a really cool plant.  I read that it takes 5-8 years for it to grow the "bottle" shape in the trunk.  Fairchild Gardens in Miami has a giant Adansonia digitata baobab tree, but they are zone 10+.

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