Cracking Parajubaea in a vice

[Jonathan Haycock]

I’ve always cracked seed of Jubaea, Butia etc as it speeds up germination and identifies those that are rotten. It’s true that sometimes however, the kernel can get damaged during the process. 

I thought I’d share my experience of Parajubaea cocoides, which is one of the hardest “nuts to crack” out of this family of palms.

 

Method:

Secure seed in a vice.

Score along one (or more, there are three) lines of weakness in the endocarp with a junior hacksaw. 

Rotate seed 90 degrees and apply pressure.

 

Zero casualties . I will employ this new method going forward.

Edited November 1, 2020 by Jonathan Haycock

[amh]

Haven't done this on palm seeds, but the gradual even pressure of a vice prevents damage.

Just wear eye protection.

[Jonathan Haycock]

26 minutes ago, amh said:

Haven't done this on palm seeds, but the gradual even pressure of a vice prevents damage.

Just wear eye protection.

Yes a vice applies steady pressure, but as the endocarp cracks, it can still pierce the kernel.

Scoring the endocarp with a hacksaw weakens it thus enabling it to be cracked without damaging the kernel.

[swolf]

Nice documentation Jonathan!!!  With regard to cracked Jubaea seeds, what has your subsequent speed/percentage germination/survival rate been like compared to ‘au naturel’ methods?

Steve

[Jonathan Haycock]

44 minutes ago, swolf said:

Nice documentation Jonathan!!!  With regard to cracked Jubaea seeds, what has your subsequent speed/percentage germination/survival rate been like compared to ‘au naturel’ methods?

Steve

Thanks Steve,

I’ve never not cracked Jubaea so can’t comment from personal experience on “au naturel” other than I know plenty of palm enthusiasts who’ve used this method and have waited many months/years for germination.

I don’t (but, probably should) keep records of speed/% germination as I’m just a hobbyist so only looking for a few seedlings from each seed haul. However, on memory I would say using my previous method of cracking Jubaea in a vice (no junior hacksaw) perhaps I’d lose a quarter to a third of them through mechanical damage and subsequent rot. Using the junior hacksaw I reckon very few, if any would be damaged.

Of the remaining good seed, some will pop within a few weeks, the majority of the rest within 2-3 months. I don’t keep Jubaea seed more than 6 months.

Edited November 2, 2020 by Jonathan Haycock

[Fusca]

I've cracked Butia and Jubaea seeds in a table vise before but not with the hacksaw cut first which looks like a nice idea.  I've had much better success with Butia using this method but Jubaea not so much.  I recently germinated 3 Jubaea embryos after cracking in a vise but 2 of them perished rather quickly after germination in the baggie.  Total time was close to a year.  Jubaea seeds that I planted without cracking outside in my garden in late autumn germinated a couple of months later in late winter/early spring.  I would think that you'd have to be pretty careful to keep conditions sterile using the cracking method.

[amh]

7 hours ago, Jonathan Haycock said:

Yes a vice applies steady pressure, but as the endocarp cracks, it can still pierce the kernel.

Scoring the endocarp with a hacksaw weakens it thus enabling it to be cracked without damaging the kernel.

Correct, but the natural cleavage is usually where the split occurs. Not arguing, I'm all for using the saw to prevent damage.

Great post.

[Jonathan Haycock]

5 hours ago, Fusca said:

I've cracked Butia and Jubaea seeds in a table vise before but not with the hacksaw cut first which looks like a nice idea.  I've had much better success with Butia using this method but Jubaea not so much.  I recently germinated 3 Jubaea embryos after cracking in a vise but 2 of them perished rather quickly after germination in the baggie.  Total time was close to a year.  Jubaea seeds that I planted without cracking outside in my garden in late autumn germinated a couple of months later in late winter/early spring.  I would think that you'd have to be pretty careful to keep conditions sterile using the cracking method.

I’ve found that leaving cracked Jubaea, Butia etc seed in the baggy longer to develop after germination increases their chance of survival once potted on. 

I use sphagnum moss baggies and wouldn’t say my methods are sterile. Some seed will inevitably succumb to fungus, but plenty stay good and germinate (more than enough for my personal requirements). If I were to do this commercially, I’d definitely pay more attention to sterilisation. 

 

[LivistonaFan]

11 hours ago, Jonathan Haycock said:

I’ve always cracked seed of Jubaea, Butia etc as it speeds up germination and identifies those that are rotten. It’s true that sometimes however, the kernel can get damaged during the process. 

I thought I’d share my experience of Parajubaea cocoides, which is one of the hardest “nuts to crack” out of this family of palms.

 

Method:

Secure seed in a vice.

Score along one (or more, there are three) lines of weakness in the endocarp with a junior hacksaw. 

Rotate seed 90 degrees and apply pressure.

 

Zero casualties . I will employ this new method going forward.

Thank you! I will try that with Attalea phalerata and Syagrus cardenasii

[climate change virginia]

Where can I buy these seeds

[swolf]

Probably not necessary if the shell is properly scored, but otherwise I’ve read that experienced growers will let the seed dry about 2-3 months before cracking.  Once a slight ‘rattle’ can be discerned, then the shell can be cracked with less risk to the internal seed.

Steve

[VA Jeff]

a dremel can also be used for scoring the seeds faster. Parajubaea sunkha can withstand southeast summers.  Mine is about as tall as me, but got protected on the coldest few days last winter.

[climate change virginia]

On 11/1/2020 at 4:11 PM, Jonathan Haycock said:

 

the seed looks like a mini coconut does it have liquid inside the seed?

[Jonathan Haycock]

I don’t know @climate change virginia as I’ve kept every seed in tact for germination. 

[Jonathan Haycock]

14 hours ago, swolf said:

Probably not necessary if the shell is properly scored, but otherwise I’ve read that experienced growers will let the seed dry about 2-3 months before cracking.  Once a slight ‘rattle’ can be discerned, then the shell can be cracked with less risk to the internal seed.

Steve

Steve, I’ve also found germination rates with Jubaea and Parajubaea are improved if the seed is dried for at least a month then rehydrated before sowing. 

[climate change virginia]

2 hours ago, Jonathan Haycock said:

Steve, I’ve also found germination rates with Jubaea and Parajubaea are improved if the seed is dried for at least a month then rehydrated before sowing. 

ok thank you will do once I get seeds

[Fallen Munk]

If I can get Parajubaea seed, I'll do them exactly how I germinate my Jubaea.  I keep them dry until they rattle, then put them in the vise.  My last batch of 100 had no damage from that.  Then I soak them for a couple of days in tap water and put them sitting on top of damp perlite in one of those Jiffy propagation trays with the clear lid.  They usually start popping roots within three months at room temperature.  After which time I transfer them to a community pot as they are ready.  Jubaea are now super easy for me and I don't see why Parajubaea would be any different.  I used to struggle to get one or two out of 20 seeds germinated in two years, now I can get hundreds of them in the first three to four months.

And if anyone out there has some Parajubaea torallyi seeds they can spare, or know of someone who does, feel free to drop me a message.