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Help! Germinator veterans Input Needed


Frond-friend42

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Licuala grandis - Licuala palm seeds.

In the next few months I am planning  on trying my hand at germinating: L peltata (suma cum laude), L. Orbicularis, and L. grandis.  

The attached file has the only clear instructions I could find on how to germinate licuala seeds. I wonder if germination pros on here think the following method is good or lacking in something.  And if there are any particulars between these species, to be applies with the non-grandis seeds.

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Its a download and im having trouble attaching. The instructions are to soak for 2 days. Then plant just under the surface in cat litter or perlite, then seal pot in ziplock on window seal with water and universal fertilizer in the bottom. It says to keep it 68-77 F at night, 77-88 in dat, in part shade.  What do you guys think? 

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37 minutes ago, Frond-friend42 said:

I am planning  on trying my hand at germinating: L peltata (suma cum laude)

LOL!  I like that one!

I wouldn't call myself a pro but I have had success germinating Licuala grandis and peltata var. 'sumawongii'.  I couldn't see your attachment but what you wrote in your second post looks reasonable.  I've read where folks in Australia planted them outside with the fluctuating temps and then forgot about them for about a year when they started.  What I've found to be helpful is to remove the paper-thin outer shell first although you might receive them with this shell already removed.  I germinated mine in baggies with slightly moist sphagnum moss and bottom heat of 95°F.  They're not quick by any means - I think it was between 9-12 months for mine.  Fertilizer won't help germination and not necessary for young seedlings as they get their nurishment from the seed.  Best of luck with them!

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Jon Sunder

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Thanks for the input. Im not sure if RPS removed the outer shell. Im thinking they have little striations inside the outer thin shell, whereas they are smooth with the shell on?

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1 hour ago, Frond-friend42 said:

Thanks for the input. Im not sure if RPS removed the outer shell. Im thinking they have little striations inside the outer thin shell, whereas they are smooth with the shell on?

They are smooth with the shell on.  I don't recall if there are any marks on the seed inside the outer shell - I'm thinking they're still smooth.  If the seeds are dry (prior to soaking) squeeze them hard between your thumbnail and finger applying pressure with the tip of your finger.  If the shell is still on you'll feel a slight crack.  Or place on a hard floor surface and gently roll your shoe across the seed.  The shell comes off very easily (for the most part) and it's not necessary to remove all of the shell.  Very similar to Psuedophoenix sargenti, Livistona meullerii and other seeds which germinate better/faster with the outer shell removed.

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Jon Sunder

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Fusca thank you very much for sharing your professional expertise. Hopefully I can get a licuala to germinate (and survive,) and at that point I will also be a professional. 

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L. Peltata
I have small container with perlite and coir. Its damp but not wet and put seeds on surface and closed lid.  I also dipped seeds in fungicide solution before putting in container.
Its sitting on bookshelf, been about 6 months so far. Can update when something happens.

 

 

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11 "orbies" here all wrapped and ready to be ferried back and forth between the sill at night and the heat mat around the corner from the sill in the day. That should get them the right Temps and just a little indirect light.

I removed the outer shell with....my teeth..

This organic fungicide/miticide/neem oil i dipped them in smells terrible. And i thought, did I just kills them after all that? But then I soaked them in water again so maybe I washed it all off....

Hopefully I'll resurrect this thread with some beautiful seedlings in 6-24 months.  Hopefully we'll see some good new from Palms Brisbane before long.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Christmas came!

Been moving them back and forth between the sill and the heat mat for temperature fluctuation. Somethings happening in there with both types. Hopefully a lot more at the surface.

Should i pluck these and pot them? Should I wait for first leaf?

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I would wait till they have there first leaf( like the pic). They are so fragile before and they can go down hill quick 

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Crack and remove outer shells, you’ll lose a few from the trauma, but I find it’s worth it. These Lic ‘sumawongii’s’ sprouted in less than a month. Better than waiting 6-9 with outer shell left on.

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Warrior Palm Princess, Satellite Beach, Florida

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Yes, Charlene. Thanks to your expert guidance (not to mention the seeds) I have at least one (i assume there are more beneath the surface) of my two types that germinated in just over 3 weeks.

I was wondering if the fact that their roots are pushing the seeds up and out of the substrate will be a problem.  Anything to be done about that? Maybe I shout make a little mound to cover the exposed root?

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I thought this meant that a majority were in the process of germinating. Sadly I discovered only to two visible germinators, it seems, have done so.  I separated them into a perlite/peat mix to submerge the roots.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 9/14/2020 at 11:41 AM, NatureGirl said:

Crack and remove outer shells, you’ll lose a few from the trauma, but I find it’s worth it. These Lic ‘sumawongii’s’ sprouted in less than a month. Better than waiting 6-9 with outer shell left on.

4C6F7ADD-473B-446A-9174-C8877632F9EB.jpeg

Hmmm. I must be doing something wrong.  You keep yours away from sunlight? I have an artificial light nearby and I wonder if it is inhibiting the rooters from sprouting. 

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I find them to be quite erratic, they will germinate, just on their own time. But definitely faster than with shell on.

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Warrior Palm Princess, Satellite Beach, Florida

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  • 10 months later...

It's gone well. Sumawongis continue to germinate.  I continue to move them on and off the heat mat and keep them minimally moist.. I have shifted them all to peat which seems to perform best--grower pots inside baggies.  Some pictures are grandis, and the leftmost, bowing low is my only orbicularis. 

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