I know its early but I am prepping for next summer! I am in Mesa arizona, so it gets hot here. Recently I have purchased some encephalartos cycads and a Dioon. I have all of them in pots and have zero shade in my yard. I am going to be building a 16×16 shade area next summer and I am wondering for encephalartos what would be your opinion on the best percentage? So far I have seen 50 percent, but wondering if anyone has had any luck with a lower percent.
As a side note, I am looking at aluminet shade cloth which acts as a mirror and reflects heat away from the shade structure.
Thanks for your time!
My gardens have been in place for over 10 years so many of my palms have grown to maturity. However, I still lose individual plants over the course of a year, which give me opportunities to sort through palms I've grown from seeds to fill gaps in the yard. Since fall began I have planted the following plants, including one Areca catechu semi dwarf and five Areca catechu dwarfs that demanded to go into the ground.
Areca catechu semi dwarf - replaced a fading Livistona nitida
Areca catechu dwarf #1 - replaced a dead Satakentia on east side of jungle
Areca catechu dwarfs #2 & #3 - on east side of house
Areca catechu dwarf #4 on west side of house - replaces dead Chambeyronia Hookeri
Areca catechu dwarf #5 - west side of jungle in place of dead Livistona jenkinsiana
Hello all! Just wanted to get opinios on how fast it takes a cycad in the seedling stage to develop a caudex?
I know there are many types of cycads that grow and different rates.
My personal favorite cyads right now are encephalartos.
What is the typical rate from seedling to developing a small caudex for encephalartos?
Is it better to pay for something that has a caudex developed or stick with seedlings and watch them grow?
Also what is the typical amount of time for germination?
Definitely sounds unusual at first glance, but I dug up this thread from 2016 where user cycadjungle wrote on a successful experiment where a "sex reversal" was achieved on around 20% of E. natalensis by manipulating the plant's specific growing conditions to cause hormone shifts. They wrote that they knew someone in Los Angeles who owned several clones of E. woodii who would allow them to conduct the experiments once the plants cycled through several cones/flushes.
I'm curious if anyone else has attempted sex reversals since then, and if it really is a possible method of bringing back the E. woodii!
Fresh on the heels of my hugely popular and gripping tale of an unknown Encephalartos, I bring you the sequel! Naaaaaame that plant! Sometimes I have to amuse myself, ya know!
This one seems to be a medium-sized Encephalartos and it's showing a bit of bluish coloring now that it's out in more sun. You can't really see that in the photos, but compared to a Hildebrandtii nearby it's definitely in the "slightly blue" category. Part of this might be water spots from my well water, which should go away now that it's not in my overhead spray "tropical bed." The leaves are slightly cupped and nearly spineless, with just small remnant spines along the bottom edge and occasionally 1 small spine on the top edge near the base. Leaf tips are consistently swept forwards. Leaves are noticeably keeled but it's hard to say if they would overlap or not. The existing 3 fronds flushed in significant shade, but I planted it in almost 100% sun after a couple of week's acclimation. Leaves have zero sunburn even with the short acclimation period. The caudex is about 4 inches and the fronds are about 3.5-4 feet long. Petioles are furry with leaves reducing to spines.
My initial thought was Munchii, because the leaves can be variable in color and amount of spines. Being in rainy Floriduh and in shade it wouldn't be too blue, and I didn't even notice the coloring until it had been out in full sun for a couple of weeks. Here's the whole plant, with a sunburned green spiny Munchii behind it. ChuckG also had several other in the Manikensis group and other SW Mozambique cycads, so it's possible that it is a "lost label" kind from somewhere in that area.
Here's the caudex and petioles, you can see they have small spines almost to the caudex. The shortest leaves switch to a 3-spine tip like Laurentianus/Whitelockii instead of being nearly spineless.
And the leaf detail, with noticeable keeling. If these fronds were grown in full sun they'd be shorter and *might* have some overlap.