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For lovers of big leaves - ficus roxburghii (auriculata)


Josue Diaz

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Check out the size of these leaves! They are not as thick/leathery as lyrata, or dammaeropsis, but the size and color on this species is amazing just as well. Evergreen for me the last two winters in Fresno. 

 

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8 hours ago, Josue Diaz said:

Check out the size of these leaves! They are not as thick/leathery as lyrata, or dammaeropsis, but the size and color on this species is amazing just as well. Evergreen for me the last two winters in Fresno. 

Wow! I had no idea these could be grown outdoors in NorCal! Very nice!! The leaves look perfect... no sunburn or bug bites! ;)

 

 

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8 hours ago, Josue Diaz said:

Check out the size of these leaves! They are not as thick/leathery as lyrata, or dammaeropsis, but the size and color on this species is amazing just as well. Evergreen for me the last two winters in Fresno. 

 

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At the expense of being flogged w/ an Ocotillo branch by a few:mrlooney:, have to admit i like this Ficus sp. a tad better than F. dammaropsis.. No doubt its a great species, but this one seems to grow nicely/ looks great just about everywhere i have seen it.. Definitely adds the big leaf, tropical feel to a landscape..  Nice to see it doing well there in Fresno too:greenthumb:.

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Here's a nice specimen in Selby Botanical's collection.   ..And what you have to look forward to Josue. :drool: Might be hard to see in the pic, but it is tied to posts on a couple sides.
DSCN0285.thumb.JPG.9aaf3a75af588fa0e8906d54873f5ca3.JPG

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I love these, but they get huge quick. I have been chopping mine back to keep it on the smaller side. The woody cuttings root easily.

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I wish I could get my hands on one of these in Europe. Does anyone know a source of viable seeds? Have spent plenty of $$$ on non-viable seeds over the years :bummed:

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I recently got Ficus umbellata which looks very similar to this.

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I bought one 2 weeks ago, do they appreciate full sun in mediterranean climate ? What about summer drought?

Edited by gilles06
corrector

07690.gif

elevation 328 feet

distance from mediteranean sea 1,1 mile

lowest t° 2009/2010 : 27F

lowest t° 2008/2009 : 33F

lowest t° 2007/2008 : 32F

lowest t° 2006/2007 : 35F

lowest t° 2005/2006 : 27F

lowest t° 2004/2005 : 25F

Historical lowest t° 1985 : 18F

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3 hours ago, gilles06 said:

I bought one 2 weeks ago, do they appreciate full sun in mediterranean climate ? What about summer drought?

You will probably want to irrigate it some during the summer but they can handle a lot of sun.  There is a nice specimen at formerly Quail Botanical Garden now "San Diego" Botanical garden located here in Encinitas.  Our climate description is based on the real thing, where you are in the Mediterranean.... winter rain and cool, summer dry and hot.

 

On 5/22/2020 at 10:34 AM, Silas_Sancona said:

At the expense of being flogged w/ an Ocotillo branch by a few:mrlooney:, have to admit i like this Ficus sp. a tad better than F. dammaropsis.. No doubt its a great species, but this one seems to grow nicely/ looks great just about everywhere i have seen it.. Definitely adds the big leaf, tropical feel to a landscape

Since I'm growing the funky, red fruited form which has great leaves but no form, I can partially agree with you on tree structure.  However, if you switch to the green fruit form, they seem to have much better structure as well as the spectacularly large and rigid leaves.

 

On 5/22/2020 at 12:58 PM, akamu said:

That is a great looking species thanks for sharing

Adam, I'm sure you are aware that there is a great collection pf Ficus specimens down by you at the San Diego Zoo as well as up here in Encinitas (former Quail Botanical as mentioned above).  Definitely worth visiting again once they are opened back up.

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33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

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That sounds good. Thank you Tracy  :greenthumb:

07690.gif

elevation 328 feet

distance from mediteranean sea 1,1 mile

lowest t° 2009/2010 : 27F

lowest t° 2008/2009 : 33F

lowest t° 2007/2008 : 32F

lowest t° 2006/2007 : 35F

lowest t° 2005/2006 : 27F

lowest t° 2004/2005 : 25F

Historical lowest t° 1985 : 18F

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On 5/24/2020 at 6:53 AM, Josh76 said:

I wish I could get my hands on one of these in Europe. Does anyone know a source of viable seeds? Have spent plenty of $$$ on non-viable seeds over the years :bummed:

Sure they're coming out by the zillions right now grown by Jan at "esperit ficuss" in the Netherlands,  esperit.nl in a EU shop near you!

They have Auriculata, Umbellata and monster form of Bussei which seems to be rivaling F.brussii from PNG. 

I like and am growing both Umbellata and Auriculata and Bussei. Both Umbellata and Auriculata are very lovely small trees with tons of colour. For me at any rate Umbellata has more more intense coppery colours and Auriculata reddish then pinkish coppery. Umbellata has much the same size leaves or even bigger if you cut it back every two years or so which I have been doing. Not quite pollarding but I take off about a meter or so.  Auriculata spreads like a low cloud, fabulouse shape so I don't prune it back, they start branching quite early on. 

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Cerdic

Non omnis moriar (Horace)

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On 5/23/2020 at 1:34 AM, Silas_Sancona said:

At the expense of being flogged w/ an Ocotillo branch by a few:mrlooney:, have to admit i like this Ficus sp. a tad better than F. dammaropsis.. No doubt its a great species, but this one seems to grow nicely/ looks great just about everywhere i have seen it.. Definitely adds the big leaf, tropical feel to a landscape..  Nice to see it doing well there in Fresno too:greenthumb:.

Think it's because they grow them commercially from seed rather than marcotts of lateral branches which seems to be the problem with dammeropsis.  A well grown seed grown dammaropsis is a very nice thing, no argument but that funky thing sprawling on the floor certainly less so. I've seem one or two stunning ones in Australia in botanical gardens, very old original examples grown from seed and they're a completely different ball game. Yah bigger is better is not always the case in a leaf, depending on your climatic conditions. For me the PNG lowland Ficus brusii is less interesting, not only because the leaves have less of that very attractive, essential pleating but because they also droop sadly where dammaropsis holds them up better all conditions.  Umbellata and Auriculata grow so easily and you get them seed grown, the leaves rival dammaropsis in size particularily if you cut them back every couple of years once you've got nice thick trunks and the colour is tremendous. Cutting them back doesn't set them back at all, same season, just a month in fact you have your tree back with bigger leaves than ever. 

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Cerdic

Non omnis moriar (Horace)

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16 hours ago, Cedric said:

Sure they're coming out by the zillions right now grown by Jan at "esperit ficuss" in the Netherlands,  esperit.nl in a EU shop near you!

They have Auriculata, Umbellata and monster form of Bussei which seems to be rivaling F.brussii from PNG. 

I like and am growing both Umbellata and Auriculata and Bussei. Both Umbellata and Auriculata are very lovely small trees with tons of colour. For me at any rate Umbellata has more more intense coppery colours and Auriculata reddish then pinkish coppery. Umbellata has much the same size leaves or even bigger if you cut it back every two years or so which I have been doing. Not quite pollarding but I take off about a meter or so.  Auriculata spreads like a low cloud, fabulouse shape so I don't prune it back, they start branching quite early on. 

Wow- thanks @Cedric :greenthumb::greenthumb:

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  • 2 months later...

Anyone have some cuttings of Auriculata they can send me?  :D  I have bought the generic Lyrata (not too cold hardy here in 9b/9a borderline) and a small Benghalensis to satisfy my wife's "big leaf" obsession.  I was thinking of Auriculata because they are reasonably hardy and burn around 27F, per Eric's experience at Leu Gardens.  And they don't tend to grow monstrously huge, apparently around 15-20' height and diameter.  Anyone know of a good source for one?  They seem to be hard to find.

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1 hour ago, Merlyn2220 said:

Anyone have some cuttings of Auriculata they can send me?  :D  I have bought the generic Lyrata (not too cold hardy here in 9b/9a borderline) and a small Benghalensis to satisfy my wife's "big leaf" obsession.  I was thinking of Auriculata because they are reasonably hardy and burn around 27F, per Eric's experience at Leu Gardens.  And they don't tend to grow monstrously huge, apparently around 15-20' height and diameter.  Anyone know of a good source for one?  They seem to be hard to find.

PM sent.

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There's a single nice young specimen of Ficus auriculata at the San Francisco Botanical Garden growing in mostly shade, looking quite nice. Surprising!
Also, their specimen of Ficus sur is now producing plentiful flowers on its trunk.

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Jason Dewees

Inner Sunset District

San Francisco, California

Sunset zone 17

USDA zone 10a

21 inches / 530mm annual rainfall, mostly October to April

Humidity averages 60 to 85 percent year-round.

Summer: 67F/55F | 19C/12C

Winter: 56F/44F | 13C/6C

40-year extremes: 96F/26F | 35.5C/-3.8C

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Josue....what a nice looking ficus you have there. I’ve wanted to add something like that to my garden that’s a bit of a blank canvas.  Something like that would definitely be special.  Would anyone know of a good SoCal source.  

Thanks,

Eddie

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On 5/22/2020 at 10:34 AM, Silas_Sancona said:

At the expense of being flogged w/ an Ocotillo branch by a few:mrlooney:, have to admit i like this Ficus sp. a tad better than F. dammaropsis.. No doubt its a great species, but this one seems to grow nicely/ looks great just about everywhere i have seen it.

Get ready for a flogging.  Yes, many Ficus dammaropsis including mine grow as a sprawl, but I do love the leaves and if you have the red fruit with the red leaf veins that is tough to beat!

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33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

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  • 2 months later...

Can anyone walk me through propagation via cutting such as where to cut, type of media, conditions, etc?  I have one growing outside that I just planted this year and its easily one of my favorite plants.  I'm in a warm 9a so I figure if there's a chance of it dying to the ground in a cold snap I might as well turn some branches into new plants instead of mulch.

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5 hours ago, Keys6505 said:

Can anyone walk me through propagation via cutting such as where to cut, type of media, conditions, etc?  I have one growing outside that I just planted this year and its easily one of my favorite plants.  I'm in a warm 9a so I figure if there's a chance of it dying to the ground in a cold snap I might as well turn some branches into new plants instead of mulch.

Thinking you'd want to take cuttings no shorter than about 8" in which the wood isn't green ( brand new/immature ) but isn't old/ brown.. though Ficus -anything- might be an exception where cuttings taken from older wood (  1 + yrs old ) may root easily also. Not sure if trimming/removing some of the leaves on these will make a difference in rooting cuttings of them.  Anyway.. I myself always recommend using a rooting soil mix that leans heavily inorganic/ Mineral.. Ie: Course grit/pumice/turface ( MVP ) ..with just a little organic stuff in it. Always have trouble when rooting stuff in soil mixes that are higher in the organic components. If you do incorporate any organics in your mix, use Coco peat over peat moss. Coconut husk-derived products supposedly contain a natural compound/chemical that is said to reduce/ inhibit growth of certain harmful fungal or bacterial pathogens.

This time of year, keep warm, ..on a heating mat if you have one, and keep the soil moist, ..but not wet.  Wet soil while trying to root cuttings during the cool season/indoors can easily = stem rot issues/ new roots can rot easily before they really get going, even if you use a rooting hormone ( i never do, for anything )

Not sure how long it may take before you'll know if the cuttings start rooting but will be obvious when you see lots of new growth/ roots starting to peek out of the drain holes of the pots..

Hope this helps..
 

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  • 1 year later...

Any advice on caring for seedlings? I propagated many seeds recently. Seedlings are still tiny. Do they want a constantly moist medium at this stage?

previously known as ego

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12 minutes ago, ego said:

Any advice on caring for seedlings? I propagated many seeds recently. Seedlings are still tiny. Do they want a constantly moist medium at this stage?

Yes, keep them moist ..but not wet,   ..and warm.   Any pictures?

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1 hour ago, Silas_Sancona said:

Yes, keep them moist ..but not wet,   ..and warm.   Any pictures?

Here they are. Still tiny. When do I separate them?

 

 

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previously known as ego

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20 minutes ago, ego said:

Here they are. Still tiny. When do I separate them?

 

 

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Oh you've got awhile before you'll separate into individual pots..  Should be on their 3rd or 4th set of true leaves before considering separating out..  Just a rough estimate, but you're likely looking at a year from now, before they'll be ready, depending on how quickly they move of course.. Would be cool to see updates after the summer to see how they're progressing..

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2 minutes ago, Silas_Sancona said:

Oh you've got awhile before you'll separate into individual pots..  Should be on their 3rd or 4th set of true leaves before considering separating out..  Just a rough estimate, but you're likely looking at a year from now, before they'll be ready, depending on how quickly they move of course.. Would be cool to see updates after the summer to see how they're progressing..

Oh I hadn't realized they're that slow. The "pot" has no drainage holes. I thought they'd only stay in there for few weeks tbh plus I know that it's a water loving plant. Should I open drainage holes? It sits on a heat mat if that matters.

previously known as ego

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1 minute ago, ego said:

Oh I hadn't realized they're that slow. The "pot" has no drainage holes. I thought they'd only stay in there for few weeks tbh plus I know that it's a water loving plant. Should I open drainage holes? It sits on a heat mat if that matters.

I would.. only because, even though they do like moisture, when any excess water can't escape out the drain holes of a pot  it can create Hypoxic / oxygen robbing soil conditions ..Essentially, the extra moisture trapped in the pot will start to break down the organics in the soil mix. After awhile, those decaying organic bits and pieces turn to sludge, which sucks Oxygen out of the soil and will cause the roots ( and seedlings ..or plants themselves ) to start rotting..  Oxygen circulation through the soil mix, to the roots, is what helps get them growing..

At that size, any disturbance when separating would likely be fatal..

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9 minutes ago, Silas_Sancona said:

I would.. only because, even though they do like moisture, when any excess water can't escape out the drain holes of a pot  it can create Hypoxic / oxygen robbing soil conditions ..Essentially, the extra moisture trapped in the pot will start to break down the organics in the soil mix. After awhile, those decaying organic bits and pieces turn to sludge, which sucks Oxygen out of the soil and will cause the roots ( and seedlings ..or plants themselves ) to start rotting..  Oxygen circulation through the soil mix, to the roots, is what helps get them growing..

At that size, any disturbance when separating would likely be fatal..

I see. Thankfully I have them in a very thin container. I can easily make holes with a hot metallic tool. 

One last question: they only have about an inch depth of soil (again because I thought that container would only be used for few weeks). Will that be enough for a year?

previously known as ego

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2 minutes ago, ego said:

I see. Thankfully I have them in a very thin container. I can easily make holes with a hot metallic tool. 

One last question: they only have about an inch depth of soil (again because I thought that container would only be used for few weeks). Will that be enough for a year?

Might be a little less than optimal but, as long as they are kept moist, shouldn't be too much of an issue, though they'll likely form a good tangle of roots over time as they develop. ...Watch them though..  Like i said, how quickly you'll be able to separate out will depend on how fast they develop.. If they grow fast enough, they might be ready by sometime in the fall..  Great opportunity for taking notes for when you start more from seed ( if you do ) next time..

As for the holes, no need to be big or anything, just big enough that excess water can escape when you mist them, and oxygen will be able to circulate around developing roots.. Carefully poking the holes with something like the end of a Scissor, Nail, or fork should be fine..  Adding a drop or two of something like Fish Emulsion to the water you mist them with may speed them up a little also..

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4 minutes ago, Silas_Sancona said:

Might be a little less than optimal but, as long as they are kept moist, shouldn't be too much of an issue, though they'll likely form a good tangle of roots over time as they develop. ...Watch them though..  Like i said, how quickly you'll be able to separate out will depend on how fast they develop.. If they grow fast enough, they might be ready by sometime in the fall..  Great opportunity for taking notes for when you start more from seed ( if you do ) next time..

As for the holes, no need to be big or anything, just big enough that excess water can escape when you mist them, and oxygen will be able to circulate around developing roots.. Carefully poking the holes with something like the end of a Scissor, Nail, or fork should be fine..  Adding a drop or two of something like Fish Emulsion to the water you mist them with may speed them up a little also..

Yup I'm gonna use scissors. 

Re fish emulsion that may be hard to come across here so I may have to just buy a fertilizer. When do I start fertilizing? As I said the medium is mostly perlite.

previously known as ego

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1 minute ago, ego said:

Yup I'm gonna use scissors. 

Re fish emulsion that may be hard to come across here so I may have to just buy a fertilizer. When do I start fertilizing? As I said the medium is mostly perlite.

 Would give it a couple weeks ( before applying any fertilizer )  Definitely look for something organic.. and go very light ( the reference to a drop or two of X fertilizer, to the amount of water that would fill up a Squirt Bottle )  Synthetic ferts, which are often composed of salts, will burn tender seedlings like these..  Porous surface of the perlite will retain some molecules of Fert that pass over the grains ( of Perlite ), for the roots to seek out later.

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11 hours ago, Silas_Sancona said:

 

Thanks a lot. I have some worm castings. I'll use those. Perhaps I'll make some tea out of them and use that. 

 

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previously known as ego

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5 minutes ago, ego said:

Thanks a lot. I have some worm castings. I'll use those. Perhaps I'll make some tea out of them and use that. 

 

:greenthumb: A nice, mild Worm Castings tea should be perfect..

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On 3/18/2022 at 8:43 AM, Silas_Sancona said:

:greenthumb: A nice, mild Worm Castings tea should be perfect..

Thanks a lot. By the way, I guess that at this stage that their roots are still tiny and shallow, I should spray them daily, am I right? Humidity in the room is around 50% and temperature  73 F.

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previously known as ego

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I'd like to have one of these big leaf figs, but with a small garden, with  block walls and underground utilities, should I be concerned about their root system?... I know some figs have very invasive roots...

Butch

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12 hours ago, ego said:

Thanks a lot. By the way, I guess that at this stage that their roots are still tiny and shallow, I should spray them daily, am I right? Humidity in the room is around 50% and temperature  73 F.

If where you are keeping them stays humid ( ..50% or higher ) you should be able to mist them every other day.. While you don't want them to dry out, staying too wet can cause it's own problems.. ( Damping off, root rot, etc.. ) Just like it will do w/ particles of Fertilizer, pores in the Perlite will hold onto moisture.

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2 minutes ago, Silas_Sancona said:

If where you are keeping them stays humid ( ..50% or higher ) you should be able to mist them every other day.. While you don't want them to dry out, staying too wet can cause it's own problems.. ( Damping off, root rot, etc.. ) Just like it will do w/ particles of Fertilizer, pores in the Perlite will hold onto moisture.

Thank you so much. Your advice has been really helpful. 

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previously known as ego

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Woke up today and saw that half of the seedlings have died. Only like 4 remain. Yesterday I sprayed with distilled water. I didn't cover the container with a lid during the night as I do most nights. Could it be that spraying isn't enough? The medium feels dry to the finger. Could it be that spraying is not enough as the water only stays in the surface? Night temperature was 19C but they were also on the heat mat. Humidity may have gone down to 40%. I'm attaching a photo. What could be the issue? I'm afraid by tomorrow they will all be gone. 

 

 

IMG_20220320_102959.jpg

previously known as ego

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