Fall/Dry Season is scheduled to start in the next day or so when the first "cold" front will drop night time lows below 70F for the first time in 6+ months and shut off the rainy season spigot. But last weekend my husband and I got a jump on yard maintenance by clearing out 2/3 of our west back yard jungle of containerized palm seedlings and shelving units so we could lay mulch. I also scrubbed and hosed off all shelving units on our dock before relaying them in the jungle. I also plan on evaluating, then repotting my container garden in a lighter mix based on coco coir. That was a lot of work and we were exhausted but the jungle could not go on in its current neglected state. Tonight I started prepping the remaining 1/3 of the west jungle for its remodel.
Back Yard West Jungle, Cape Coral, FL Fall 2020
Pots of seedlings on shelf unit. Large bifid seedlings are Carpoxylon macrospermum
Ravenea julietiae newly planted in jungle
I’m looking for some help on my Foxtail palm. I have two that we’re about the same size at planting. They both have the same fertilizer schedules, have a sprinkler head with same watering times, and bot planted in the front of the house. About 3 fronds ago I noticed a crack/fissure in one of my trunks. It does not seem to be improving/healing and appears to be traveling up the tree. I have sprayed it with copper fungicide with no results. Any recommendations for a solution to this problem? Can i fill/pack the fissure with anything to help aide in healing? Due to the uploading restrictions, I’ve included the most helpful pictures.
Thanks for all your help!
By Rob B
I hope I can come onto this forum to ask anyone/everyone about how to manage the root system of my palm tree. Some quick background - I bought my house in the SF Bay Area in June 2018 which was a fixer upper in every sense of the words. The palm tree in the back had not been cared for, in my guess, 10-15 years - probably longer. The root system has busted through the stone wall/pot thing and has grown out along the concrete patio outwards by about 3 to 4 feet in all directions. I want to get the roots cut back and re-do the wall/large pot so I can plan how I do the rest of the backyard. As you can see from the photos it's a mess.
The advice I am hoping to get is to find out how much I can cut back without hurting the tree too much. I have already begun cutting away some of the root but I stopped and decide to get more info first. I also would love to find out what kind of palm tree it is. Someone said it's a Date Palm but I am not convinced.
I genuinely would appreciate any help here. I will answer any questions that you may have to help me further. I have more photos but I can only upload 8 mb's.
Thanks in advance
I haven't posted this topic for the past 18 months, mainly because I was bummed after I lost two of my 5 Chamaedorea tuerckheimii after I repotted them. It would be tempting to leave them in their pots forever but the potting mix eventually breaks down and causes major problems. Even though I was careful as possible, two of my medium palms developed damping-off-like infections that were ultimately fatal. This palm is notoriously tricky to grow and exists in one of two states: healthy or dead. I'm amazed I still have my largest Cham tuerck, purchased from Dale Holton in 2011. What is the secret to growing them? I truly don't know but have a few thoughts.
First, I keep them in pots, not in the ground. My alkaline calcareous soil is dreadful and I don't dare risk planting such expensive palms. I also don't know if nematodes are a problem here. Second, I keep them outdoors year round (I don't keep houseplants at all) on plastic shelf units deep under canopy in my jungle - deep shade, little to no sun. They love high humidity and warmth but are not fond of FL's hot summer days and sweltering nights. But deep under canopy in my jungle, temps can be 10-15 degrees cooler than ambient temps. Now that cooler weather is here they will be much happier and less stressed as long as I make sure the irrigation waters them. The downside is they are out of sight and not on display as eye candy but I am willing to make that tradeoff. I check on them every week or so but otherwise leave them alone. I believe fussing and fretting over them would cause more harm than good.
Otherwise, I give them full checkups every spring and fall. Today I showered them, trimmed their leaves. flushed their pots with distilled water to wash away accumulated salts, drenched soil with imidacloprid insecticide, fertilized them with time release pellets and sprayed them for spider mites (alternately with Ardent or Floramite). Cham tuercks are spider mite magnets and typical insecticides don't kill mites. This summer has been particularly intense and they show a bit of stress.
Then I took the following photos. Since I lost 2 of my 5 palms 18 months ago, I have managed to obtain small ones from Floribunda and Scott Cohen. I also managed to germinate 6 of 10 seeds I got from RPS. Now if I can get them all to survive. Growing this palm is a marathon, not a sprint.
Chamaedorea tuerckheimii, Cape Coral, FL, Fall 2018
Hope everyone is well.
I have been following the forum as a guest for quite some time now, so it's nice to finally have an account and be with you all!
I'm reaching out because I'm having a slight issue with my family's 40 yr old date palm.
It's been healthy and growing well for many years with little to no maintenance but in the last two years it is struggling to hold onto new leaves and I can't work out why. The area around it was repaved about 8 years ago but it has only been looking poorly for 2/3 years now. The new leaves look healthy initially and very quickly appear slightly burned at the edges, then it doesn't take very long for them to dry out and wilt. Really don't want to lose this guy as he is the pride and joy of the neighborhood.
Does anyone have idea, what it might be? Fungus, Bugs, Growing Conditions? I'm no expert so it may be something obvious I have missed.
Is there anything I can do? Just recently I have broken up the pavement surrounding the base of the trunk to ensure it isn't missing out on water (which it very rarely gets due to climate).
Climate: Mediterranean, Dry Subtropics. Cyprus
Before (slightly over trimmed here):
Any help would be very much appreciated!