Hi, new to the forum and palms in general.
I got this washingtonia robusta and was acclimatizing it when it started yellowing several fronds. I was super careful about watering, so couldn't be an overwatering issue. Possibly also shipping stress?
Today I pulled it out of it's pot and turns out it was pretty root bound. And as such was not getting enough water maybe. Untangled the root ball a bit and potted up. Well draining potting mix.
Any advice on how to help it survive? It will go out for the summer once the weather will be warmer. Location Estonia, so will stay in pot. Currently it is in the corner of east-south facing window. Is getting some hours of sun. I have read that they are pretty tough, so hope will keep on growing.
Second question: does robusta usually grow side shoots? Or is this some multi trunk cultivar? Getting two new shoots off the main stem.
By Matt in OC
Three cycads for sale. Pick up in east San Diego. $65/ea or best offer, but definitely want them gone ASAP! PM for more info.
Dioon Edule- 9” caudex
Cycas revoluta- 18” & 16 “ tall trunk
Zamia Furfuracia clump- about 5
Hi everyone - My normally robust Parajubaea Torallyi is showing significant lack of color for the new leafs. Any thoughts on whether it might be fungus, nutritional or watering issues? I'm in northern california near San Jose. We do not have high humidity, but we have had relative hot temperatures the last month or so. The palm, seen here, is planted adjacent a lawn, so it should be getting enough water (the lawn is green and extends directly from the trunk to 20-30 feet from the trunk. The soil appears dry on the other side of the palm. I do have frequent gopher issues generally at my house, and have had large palms taken down before, but never anything even close to this size. I've heard of die back issues for cocoides (I have a very healthy one 20 yards from the torallyi seen in the pictures here), but never for Torallyi. The petioles still have some green on them, faint, but the leaflets of the new leaves are simply light in color (i.e., tan, not brown and not yellow). I'd be grateful for any thoughts or recommendations..... Marc
so my butia was in decline along with my other plants this past winter indoors
a combination of insects, overwatering and underwatering
the yellowing started during this time
when it came outside it put out a nice sized leaf but it was yellow as well
after doing some reading here on the forum i found a thread which recommended adding sulphur to the soil
Butia capitata yellowing... posted by County Ag Agent
i have been adding small spoonfuls of sulphur and it has worked to green up the butiathank you!!
a friend bought two foxtail palms this spring but now the spears are too tall to fit at his place
looks like i will be plant sitting these two foxtails!
one spent its summer not too far from me, the other was outside of toronto
it went through some cold temps which we did not get here in toronto recently
so some leaves have gone brown on the one
something i found interesting was out of my two mediterranean fan palms the taller one has a skinny trunk and the shorter one has much more gerth
squirrels wreaked havoc on my seedlings.. i will do a final count when they come inside but there were significant losses
next year i will take precautions to avoid this
here are some pics of the yard
I was away for a few days and returned to my sago palm flush looking like this.
The fronds leaflets seem short and when it finishes unraveling looks like its going to be skinny. Also i notice some of the new fronds are curving downward.
Is this a water issue? I have three irrigation lines on it with no top. I also had someone water it by hose once while I was gone.
Also I notice the fronds a little yellow.
Is there any saving this flush?
P.s I love in arizona and it has been pretty hot.