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Dypsis prestoniana variations?


Tracy

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141239599_118844696768079_7719613889456407134_n.thumb.jpg.f84e9c32fae7487db7cd87f5a2defc1f.jpg

 

Sorry this is just a teaser pic. Too much shade..and I put the trailer back before I remembered to take a pic..

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Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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Those here in SoCal can anyone share the absolute low their Prestoniana’s have survived?

I planted a 20 gallon at the end of November. Next week I am forecasted for a low of 32 one night. Based on it being planted on the north east side of my yard it may actually see 28-29 for a couple hours. 
 

I will be putting a frost cover over it as it is only about 6 ft tall. And would like to know if I need to take any other steps to keep it alive since it has noticeable frost damage from seeing 32 degrees one night in December 

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Lowest mine have seen is 37 they usually get a little bit of leaf tip burn during winter . One is in a 25 gallon pot and one is about 5 foot tall planted out under overhead canopy provided by pines . The one planted out is flawless and doesn’t show any damage after winter . Although there worst enemy’s in my yard lately has been this hellacious wind . 

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20 minutes ago, JubaeaMan138 said:

Lowest mine have seen is 37 they usually get a little bit of leaf tip burn during winter . One is in a 25 gallon pot and one is about 5 foot tall planted out under overhead canopy provided by pines . The one planted out is flawless and doesn’t show any damage after winter . Although there worst enemy’s in my yard lately has been this hellacious wind . 

It was horrible Tuesday night. 
Not worried about my Archontophoenix since they will produce 5-6 spears over the next 6-8 months.

Mostly concerned about some of the damage to my slower growing palms 

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14 hours ago, BS Man about Palms said:

 

I've been away too long and should post an update as my driveway is clear at the moment. I should first clarify that while mine has had TONS of seeds in the past, not sure if any popped. I believe Gary Levine had some viable seeds pop.

I DID have some seeds VERY fertile from my slick Willie next to my big curley and I really did not spread them out much as I was worried they might be like the Prestos.. which by the way was flowering at same time as the slick willie.. might be some hybrids there.

Also my JDA D. malcomberi is starting to do well with 6 foot leaves.  

Hope to post some pics to update soon.

So when you say "I really did not spread them out much"?  Does that mean you didn't want to oversaturate the market with Dypsis 'slick willie'?  Does it also mean you germinated them and have seedlings of this palm?

Huntington Beach, CA

USDA Zone 10a/10b

Sunset Zone 24

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8 hours ago, James B said:

Those here in SoCal can anyone share the absolute low their Prestoniana’s have survived?

I planted a 20 gallon at the end of November. Next week I am forecasted for a low of 32 one night. Based on it being planted on the north east side of my yard it may actually see 28-29 for a couple hours. 
 

I will be putting a frost cover over it as it is only about 6 ft tall. And would like to know if I need to take any other steps to keep it alive since it has noticeable frost damage from seeing 32 degrees one night in December 

Mine has seen those temperatures for brief periods... no problem

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/27/2020 at 1:38 PM, Tracy said:

My robusta is growing but it's sensitive to both winter cold and the hot dry Santa Ana days.  As it grows up it will have more Westerly afternoon exposure as it grows up over the height of that part of the house.  When I planted it, the Phoenix roebelenii adjacent to it also provided some shade, but not really much anymore.  The only reason the roebenii gets to stay is that I can still hang some small orchids on a stick from it.  Eventually it will go and I'll put something else, non-palm in it's spot that will fill in nicely as an under story plant.  I'm hopeful that the Dypsis robusta will continue to acclimate to more sun as it gets bigger.

20200623-BH3I0381.jpg

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I guess since I started the thread it is ok if I highjack it by discussing my Dypsis robusta here.  Ever since I planted it, the Phoenix r next to it was only a temporary resident.  When I bought the house there was one of those Home Depot plantings here, 5 plants in one pot to make the Phoenix r look like a clumping plant.  I kept tearing out trunks over the years until it was solitary by the time I planted the Dypsis robusta and only left the one above remaining as temporary shade.  Well, the Dypsis robusta outgrew the shade and my wife green lighted my removing the Phoenix.  Results are below, which really allows the robusta to stand out.

20210131-BH3I2532.jpg

20210131-BH3I2531.jpg

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33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

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Well done Tracy!

 

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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How cold sensitive is this species?  Mine appears to be a bit unhappy due to the recent winter chill.  It is riding the current cold spell out inside.

Either it is the cold or a nutrient deficiency.  I have, however fertilized it so I think it is the cold.

IMG_20210201_214019141.jpg

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3 hours ago, palmsOrl said:

How cold sensitive is this species?  Mine appears to be a bit unhappy due to the recent winter chill. 

My experience is they will show more cold damage and dry heat damage than my D prestoniana's as well as most of my clumping Dypsis.   Comparing just temperature data between Florida and California as a predictor of success isn't really useful, since the accompanying conditions (dry/wet, humid, duration etc.) are such big factors in outcomes.  Local Florida experience will be more helpful for you beyond my general experience that this seems to be a more temperature sensitive grower than some other Dypsis.

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33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

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On 2/1/2021 at 9:24 AM, Tracy said:

I guess since I started the thread it is ok if I highjack it by discussing my Dypsis robusta here.  Ever since I planted it, the Phoenix r next to it was only a temporary resident.  When I bought the house there was one of those Home Depot plantings here, 5 plants in one pot to make the Phoenix r look like a clumping plant.  I kept tearing out trunks over the years until it was solitary by the time I planted the Dypsis robusta and only left the one above remaining as temporary shade.  Well, the Dypsis robusta outgrew the shade and my wife green lighted my removing the Phoenix.  Results are below, which really allows the robusta to stand out.

20210131-BH3I2532.jpg

20210131-BH3I2531.jpg

Just showed my robusta a pic of your's to inspire it to grow.  :P

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Huntington Beach, CA

USDA Zone 10a/10b

Sunset Zone 24

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  • 5 months later...

Back to differences between my two Dypsis prestoniana as they mature now.  I was really impressed with the size of the inflorescence on my shorter specimen that was actually the first to start pushing them out.  I haven't had any seed set on this one yet, but the other set seed last year.  As you will see in the photos, the shorter one has a longer/larger inflorescence than the taller one that set seed last year.  The taller one also seemed to hold the inflorescence a little more upright which shouldn't be a surprise that a longer inflorescence might be heavier and less upright.  First shot is the taller one with seed from this last winter.  This photo from a little distance puts the size of the inflorescence and how it is held (more erect) into perspective.  Second shot shows 1 of 2 inflorescence on the shorter specimen, again from a little distance to put the size in perspective as well as how it is held.  While the taller one last winter had an inflo that was about 4'-5' from where it emerged to it's tip, the shorter specimen's this summer is easily 6'-7' from emerging point from the crownshaft to it's tip.  There is another inflo on the other side of the palm with a third emerging shortly.  There will be flowering madness on this palm in late summer it appears.  I'm looking forward to either confirming the seed that sets on this one is identical to the other or if there are any differences given the subtle differences in the inflorescence between the two palm specimens.

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20210717-BH3I4702.jpg

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33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

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  • 2 weeks later...

The most recent boots to come off the pair are an interesting contrast in dimensions as well.  Quite a difference in length although the diameter appears pretty close.  I haven't measured with a tape yet to see the width difference, but on the length of the crownshafts, one doesn't need a ruler or tape to see the significant difference.

20210726-BH3I4804.jpg

20210726-BH3I4806.jpg

20210726-BH3I4801.jpg

20210726-BH3I4803.jpg

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33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

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Crazy how different they are in size. I read this thread from the beginning to learn about prestoniana. So to make sure I understand correctly- you think the taller one is dypsis prestoniana “big curly” and the shorter one is dypsis prestoniana “orange crown shaft white stem”?

I’m asking because I order a 1 gallon from Floribunda in April. So far it’s doing great, potted it up to a 5g, morning sun, then filtered light. It definitely has a two-tone spear. The rachi area of the spear is white, and the leaflet side is green. Once it opens it all green.  If I’m following correctly that means I have the “OCWS” version which typically means it less robust, slightly slower growing, and not as sun tolerant when young?

thanks for any info! And thanks for sharing pics, both palms look awesome.

Dustin

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4 minutes ago, Dusty CBAD said:

Crazy how different they are in size. I read this thread from the beginning to learn about prestoniana. So to make sure I understand correctly- you think the taller one is dypsis prestoniana “big curly” and the shorter one is dypsis prestoniana “orange crown shaft white stem”?

I’m asking because I order a 1 gallon from Floribunda in April. So far it’s doing great, potted it up to a 5g, morning sun, then filtered light. It definitely has a two-tone spear. The rachi area of the spear is white, and the leaflet side is green. Once it opens it all green.  If I’m following correctly that means I have the “OCWS” version which typically means it less robust, slightly slower growing, and not as sun tolerant when young?

thanks for any info! And thanks for sharing pics, both palms look awesome.

Dustin

Based on your description, I would say you are probably correct.  But I wouldn't consider myself an authority on this by any means, so perhaps your best bet is to post a few photos for others to review and provide some input.  As previously mentioned, both of these were large 15's needing to go into the ground when I got them, so I don't have the experience with mine when they were smaller.

33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

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Thanks, I’m going to try to post a pic of it tomorrow.

Just for fun, which one out of your 2 do you prefer/think looks the best? Might be like picking a favorite kid so maybe not a fair question haha

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6 minutes ago, Dusty CBAD said:

Just for fun, which one out of your 2 do you prefer/think looks the best?

Simple answer, that it changes with the day.  I'm glad I have both variations at this point.  Be a hero, collect them all!

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33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

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Glad I popped in today and happened upon this bump. I pulled the base a couple days ago (a teeny amount of shrinkage since) But here's my only big curley.. definitely in the chunky monkey category!

226622942_344891970582362_740175926640821583_n.jpg.f5ecb6fd4d8dd8e354dd978dc9ae72f3.jpg226664999_163021519261044_3172112361677444416_n.thumb.jpg.fc409667c8054e87ebabf27b406f33fa.jpg

217857764_1818406901890497_1760937768014593336_n.jpg

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Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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25 minutes ago, BS Man about Palms said:

But here's my only big curley.. definitely in the chunky monkey category!

226622942_344891970582362_740175926640821583_n.jpg.f5ecb6fd4d8dd8e354dd978dc9ae72f3.jpg

So like my "larger" specimen with the taller leaf base, yours seems to hold the inflorescence more upright too.  They are both ery different than my shorter one in that way, which has the more horizontal position for the inflorescence.  Yours is looking great Bill!  Any tragedies below yet with fallen leaves?  They are heavy leaves.

33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

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Here’s mine. I meant to take a new pic but forgot. Seems like BS man might have the answer for me as far as two tone spears go.
 

Just wondering if I have OCWS or big curly? And what then what I can expect with mine?

If you look close you can see that the leaf part of the spear is green and the rachi/petiole part is white or a much lighter green. Thanks!

Dustin

F13B31E3-8370-43D1-91FC-3BC3E117B845.jpeg

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5 hours ago, Dusty CBAD said:

 

Just wondering if I have OCWS or big curly? And what then what I can expect with mine?

If you look close you can see that the leaf part of the spear is green and the rachi/petiole part is white or a much lighter green. Thanks!

The one that I have which Bill id'd as OCWS had more yellow on the rachis and petiole, but it was a significantly older plant, both when I got it and when Bill saw it in person.  I'll be interested to hear what he has to say about yours as I don't know the answer Dusty.

 

6 hours ago, BS Man about Palms said:

definitely in the chunky monkey category!

So Bill the pressure is on you for an opinion for Dusty about his plant.  Will Dusty have a Chunky Monkey like yours someday?

33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

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I actually kind of hope it’s not the chunky version. I do a lot of car ride naps with my kids. A lot of driving slow and looking for interesting palms. I stumbled on what I think is Bills place in Oceanside. His prestoniana is an absolute monster! Beautiful palm, but I don’t currently have a spot picked out for a palm of that magnitude.

Tracy, how big of a foot print do your prestonianas take up?

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16 hours ago, Tracy said:

So like my "larger" specimen with the taller leaf base, yours seems to hold the inflorescence more upright too.  They are both ery different than my shorter one in that way, which has the more horizontal position for the inflorescence.  Yours is looking great Bill!  Any tragedies below yet with fallen leaves?  They are heavy leaves.

Actually, they seem to "fold" first.. as such. Mainly as I occasionally am a bit off on my watering. I also don't really trim any leaves, just wait for them to die. IIRC, I've counted 13 leaves on this at a time.. That's a LOT of water needs! If it's a bit parched, the bottom leaves fold, and stop once hitting some support. You can see this in the crown picture.

15 hours ago, Dusty CBAD said:

Here’s mine. I meant to take a new pic but forgot. Seems like BS man might have the answer for me as far as two tone spears go.
 

Just wondering if I have OCWS or big curly? And what then what I can expect with mine?

If you look close you can see that the leaf part of the spear is green and the rachi/petiole part is white or a much lighter green. Thanks!

Dustin

F13B31E3-8370-43D1-91FC-3BC3E117B845.jpeg

I am of the opinion that there is a fair amount of variability as these become more common, maybe from some cross pollination. BUT all that being said, on the "old" batches, you could tell easily "mostly" when young AND when a bit sun protected. The Big Curley version emerging spear was a uniform green, the OCWS was a "two-tone" almost like a yellowish stripe was painted up one side. Once out in the sun, the two tone faded and was harder to distinguish. Again, on the older plants, it was easy to tell, you virtually could do no wrong on the BC, it just grew fine despite your help, sun, shade, dry, wet, no fert, plenty of fert, hot, cool, nothing fazed them... actually some (Like mine) did get a fungus just prior to my purchase likely due to too much of something, but grew right out of it. The OCWS was finicky and slow if out of a green house. It seemed it liked warm and humid, hard to achieve in socal .

As for the new ones, that's where I think the variabilty comes in. The vast majority seem to be two tone, but seem less finicky. They still seem to be slow until reaching good sized 15 gal size.

The only thing I can say for sure is if coastal, these really need full sun. I have seen several in full shade that collapse a frond as the open leaves due to the great weight and being "shade stretched".

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Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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The "almost" embarrassing thing is I think I've only fertilized this 3-5 times? Just clay soil and mulch... currently well overdue for a mulch infusion.

 

The "box planting" only embarrasses others.. lol :floor:

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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Ok cool thanks for the clarification. Mine is definitely two-toned on the spear, but it also doesn‘t seem finicky now that it’s adjusted from Hawaii. It is a floribunda 1g that I got in April. I just potted it up to a 5g. It had completely filled the 1g with roots. I’m going to let it get to least a solid 5g size before planting out.

Has yours ever produced viable seed? It would be interesting to see if the offspring of yours would end up as massive. Decade long experiment I guess.

thanks again!

Dustin

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Had a bunch of seed way back, sold, traded, etc. not sure if anyone got any to pop.. :blink:

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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How long am I looking at, assuming all ideal growing conditions are met and planted in the ground, until my 1g plant forms a trunk?

Pretty new to growing palms, I’m learning it’s a huge exercise in patience. It’s gotta be such a rewarding experience seeing a small plant years down the road turn into these beautiful palms I see here on palmtalk. 

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12 hours ago, Dusty CBAD said:

How long am I looking at, assuming all ideal growing conditions are met and planted in the ground, until my 1g plant forms a trunk?

Pretty new to growing palms, I’m learning it’s a huge exercise in patience. It’s gotta be such a rewarding experience seeing a small plant years down the road turn into these beautiful palms I see here on palmtalk. 

I would guess 7-10 years.  After doing this a while, you realize buying as big as you can is a good thing (if you can find them)

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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On 8/2/2021 at 9:40 AM, Dusty CBAD said:

 

Pretty new to growing palms, I’m learning it’s a huge exercise in patience. It’s gotta be such a rewarding experience seeing a small plant years down the road turn into these beautiful palms I see here on palmtalk. 

Maybe you noticed my signature tag too... :D

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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  • 10 months later...
On 11/9/2016 at 6:35 PM, Tracy said:

20160926-104A4423.jpg

This specimen is pushing out another flower spathe.  The other one had 3 last year, but none thus far.  It should give a pretty big display in a bit..

20220613-BH3I7947.jpg

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33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

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Bustin' the seams and letting it all hang out....

20220617-BH3I7961.jpg

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33.0782 North -117.305 West  at 72 feet elevation

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This was bought as a Tiny plant off eBay from MB palms about 4 years ago little bit up from winter but pushing a nice spear 

B343BD00-07CC-4468-9B45-DA959F931ABE.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/17/2022 at 6:00 PM, JubaeaMan138 said:

My big boy . Jd andersen jurassic park which I was told is prestoniana 

image.jpg

Is that in a 15 gal? I would be worried about stunting that as it's going vertical. I would be looking hard at planting that or putting in a tub pot up.  :D

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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5 minutes ago, BS Man about Palms said:

Is that in a 15 gal? I would be worried about stunting that as it's going vertical. I would be looking hard at planting that or putting in a tub pot up.  :D

Hoping by next spring it will be in the ground . Hoping to get a big pool and landscape project hopefully done by the end of the year and this plant will be a statement piece along with a couple other gems 

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