I just wanted to share some excitement with all of you. I just purchased an areca vestiaria online. Arrived beautifully with a brand new spear already emerging. I believe it’s a red form and I can’t wait to see some stilt roots on it.
I would love to see some of yours and would gladly hear any advice you can give me.
For the time being, I have it by a large frosted west facing window indoors as well as some overhead LED lighting. I have a lipstick palm which seems to be happy there too.
I’m going to keep it inside for the most part as my climate is far from tropical but I plan on taking it outside whenever the weather is willing.
Hey guys! I'm toying with the idea of splitting up my cluster of four kentias into four individual pots. During this process my idea is to convert them from soil to a semi-hydro setup using Leca.
I was inspired by the following thread concerning palms in Leca, specifically the impressive success story by user wimmie of two very large howeas growing semi hydro in pure Leca.
My questions/concerns about the process are the following:
-I've heard a lot about how sensitive kentias roots are and I'd want to go about separating my cluster in the best possible way, so any advice on how to do that without shocking/killing the plants would be much appreciated.
-Part of transitioning a plant to semi hydro is washing ALL soil and organic matter off of the roots before placing in Leca, and I'm wondering if this extra rinsing and cleaning of the roots/root ball is a mistake given the delicate nature of kentias roots, and general ideas as to the best way to go about this. (mine are currently growing in a fast draining sandy soil mix with a generous amount of lava rock)
-My plan is to transfer them into Lechuza pots with an internal reservoir but any recommendations or advice on the best type of pot to use for a large semi hydro format would also be appreciated.
-If I do end up pulling the trigger, should I wait until spring to do so? (This palm cluster is currently growing with virtually no natural light and is provided 10 hrs of led grow light each day. They've put out two new fronds this year and seem to be very happy in this setup)
I attached a pic of my howea cluster for reference, the tallest of the four is around 6' tall. If I end up going ahead with everything I'll be sure to document the process and keep this thread updated with their progress. Thanks in advance everyone!
First time posting, been reading the forum for almost a year and loving the community.
Found this palm on the side of the road - it was used to stage a house and discarded- it’s now inside, humidifier running as I have other tropical plants, and is raised up out of cat reach next to a North facing window due to space
Apartment has 12’ high ceilings, I’ve also got large windows facing West and potentially a South facing window (if I move my tropics and succulents).
The fronds are browning quite severely and I’m slowly increasing my watering as I don’t want to shock it. It has a new frond coming up and it’s still growing well despite the ice cold temps the night I rescued it (-1 degrees C).
I don’t want to repot it - and have read up on the dangers, but is there a way to dump out the soil and replace is with a well draining tropical mix with orchid bark without disturbing the roots?
The soil isn’t holding any moisture, and drains slower than I’d like. It’s probably dirt cheap from a garden centre.
Please let me know what you guys see in this one, I know it’s essentially doomed because of the climate here but if I can get it to next summer I can use a friend’s greenhouse all summer.
Pictures are a couple weeks old, I drilled new holes into the pot for drainage, added a large mixing bowl inside the decorative pot to elevate the inner pot out of any water.
So I know, I know.... palms and Michigan, and we have had this discussion many times before.
I have had bad luck with keeping palms alive, obviously, but I feel I have chosen the wrong ones. Plenty of us have had this discussion and I know plenty of you are able to do it. (Yes, KinzyJr, I am referring to you —and others)
So. What do you think? I am looking at a pygmy date palm, a Christmas palm, or a cycid that has a similar silhouette to the other two mentioned. It would be in a pot in my office, which has a window but I’d say partial sun as opposed to full sun. (I do also have a grow lamp in there that my hardy fig has loved but that wasn’t good enough for my coconut baby, RIP.) It’s hot and very humid in the summer—70s-90s—but the winter is extremely dry and we tend to keep the furnace at 69-71.
Not A TA also mentioned sending something, too, since I had bad luck with my seeds (idk what it is with seeds and me), which is AMAZING and so kind, so there will be more conversation regarding indoor palm health at that time, I am sure.
Also, once I’m done watching YouTube church, I’ll post the links of the trees in the shop I am looking at. I am willing to bet that someone here is familiar with the shop.
Thank you so much!!!!!
So one of my Washingtonia robusta started to go yellow and then the edges went brown and it slowly died. Then, two of my other Washingtonia have started to do the same thing a while back, but are still alive. Now, my final healthy one is starting to show the very beginning stages (slight yellowing in the oldest leaf). Then some of my Saw palmetto seedlings started to show "symptoms" and now it seems like my Archontophoenix cunninghamiana is showing it a little bit, although it fortunately doesn't seem to be progressing much. I can't tell if this is some sort of disease (I don't understand how potted palms indoors in Virginia would get a palm disease) or if they have some sort of fungus. Should I completely soak them in copper fungicide? I'm not going to lie, I am kind of freaking out a bit. Any advice would be helpful. I am not new to growing palms indoors during the winter and have been watering them each as I believe they should be watered while indoors (for example, Washingtonia get the least amount of water, to prevent rot). What could this be? Can I save these? I never had this problem before.