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Phoenikakias

My Arenga micrantha

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Phoenikakias

Pics taken today and I use myself as scale, so that you can figure out how big are the leaves though the plant is still juvenile. This year due to the constantly hot summer (every day for two months max temp aat least 38 C) has produced only two (huge) leaves but also one more offshoot. This sp. can grow also in a warm mediterranean climate, so long it has some protection from sun and ample water. I flood it in summer twice weekly and in winter once weekly (if it has not rained). The best method is hence to plant it creating a wide and deep bowl. If some one hesitates to spend much water, then he should forget about it.

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sergiskan

hello Phoenikakias.

...nice palm, thanks for the info.
what kind of soil do you have??

regards.

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Phoenikakias

Hello Sergiskan, The soil in the bowl is for about 80 cm depth and 1,5 m diameter loamy but deeper and in the wider area is clay soil.I used to grow until 2004 in this bowl some Archontophoenix spss, which all perished during that great freeze. After this disaster I planted a small Arenga micrantha. Together it grows also (but this one survived the freezes of 2004 and 2008 due to the suckering habit) a calamus caryotoides.

Edited by Phoenikakias

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dalmatiansoap

Its going to be huuuuuge!

:greenthumb:

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Phoenikakias

I forgot to mention, that maybe three years ago I added to the the loamy soil some quantity of a water retention gel. Since then the plant really started off.

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Kostas

Beautiful Arenga micrantha Phoenikakias,well done!!! :)

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Jason in Orlando

Very nice Phoenikakias! I am growing several of this species in 20L containers. I have difficulty keeping more than two or three leaves on them at this stage. What size was your Arenga when you planted it?

Jason

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Phoenikakias
Very nice Phoenikakias! I am growing several of this species in 20L containers. I have difficulty keeping more than two or three leaves on them at this stage. What size was your Arenga when you planted it?

Jason

II estimate the volume of the pot between 5 and 8 liters.

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Sutter Bob

Looks great Phoenikakias.

One here looks ok so far after -3C and -4C (26F and 24F) this week.

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Phoenikakias
Looks great Phoenikakias.

One here looks ok so far after -3C and -4C (26F and 24F) this week.

I think that it becomes cold hardier as it grows bigger. I am very curious to see whether it will fare better than engleri ( the common one not the variety ryukyuensis) by the next freaky freeze (not that I wish one, but eventually it will come). So far in Europe micrantha has been regarded as a big disappointment regarding its cold tolerance.

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bukezi

Beautiful palm Konstatinos looks that have a good care and all what is nessesary :greenthumb: keep forward :winkie: show some other palms from your garden...

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sergiskan
Hello Sergiskan, The soil in the bowl is for about 80 cm depth and 1,5 m diameter loamy but deeper and in the wider area is clay soil.I used to grow until 2004 in this bowl some Archontophoenix spss, which all perished during that great freeze. After this disaster I planted a small Arenga micrantha. Together it grows also (but this one survived the freezes of 2004 and 2008 due to the suckering habit) a calamus caryotoides.

hello Phoenikakias

I also I have a clay soil, very alkaline, very high pH.

when planted, also do a good hole and improved soil more or less one cubic meter.

... I add peat, humus, compost ..., but still remains alkaline soil.

... in some areas of the farm, the ground is white, pure white clay ... unsafe for acidophilic species, whereas others grow very well ...

a few years ago ... plant a engleri in the best soil area, which only makes one leave per year ... very slow.

...regards

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Phoenikakias

Hello Sergiskan, The clay soil aroud the micrantha is red and has been transfered to the property many decades ago by the time the garden had been designed by the very first time. This type of soil is slightly acidic. As for engleri that sounds strange to me. Arenga engleri really loves clay soil in the outdoors. I have one in part of my property that has natural soil like yours (see pic below). For the first time as the plant got acquired and immediately outplanted seemed to love this soil. In fact in autumn of same year of outplanting I had to undig the plant because I wanted to build a cold frame on its previous place. No transplant shock no nothing, instead it had doubled within tree months its root system.

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sergiskan

hello Phoenikakias.

..., my arenga engleri was planted 3 years ago...as small seedling, but grow slowly, new leaf is not much bigger than the last ...

...Irrigation with well water, about 10 meters from the surface, the water percolates through the limestone subsoil, the water has a pH8.5.
my soil ... therefore is very basic
beautiful image ..., that syagrus still very green.
mine, if I do not take measures for soil and irrigation water, they turn yellow...,

do you make something special wiht that syagrus??

thanks for the answers

...best regards

Edited by sergiskan

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Phoenikakias

I have used to a certain depth (about 80 cm) very porous material consisting of pumice, gravel and lava on a raised bed (see pic below). I had the same problem with Syagrus romanzoffiana in the past, before using this method that is, and plants got so weakened, that I lost all of them (in total 3) during the great freeze of 2004. BTH what type of fertilizer do you use?

post-6141-0-47500000-1358758195_thumb.jp

Edited by Phoenikakias

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dalmatiansoap

I dont belive clay soil is problematic for Syagrus. Interesting thing here is mature Butia dump off, this happends pretty often for no obvious reason.

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sergiskan
I dont belive clay soil is problematic for Syagrus.....

i am agree,...anyway, there are many clay soil types...

...but for sure, limestone soil is not the best soil for syagrus, at least romanzoffiana.

reards.

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sergiskan
I have used to a certain depth (about 80 cm) very porous material consisting of pumice, gravel and lava on a raised bed (see pic below). I had the same problem with Syagrus romanzoffiana in the past, before using this method that is, and plants got so weakened, that I lost all of them (in total 3) during the great freeze of 2004. BTH what type of fertilizer do you use?

attachicon.gifArec 3.JPG

hi

when i planted my syagrus, they still green meanwhile stayed two years in the pot with good substrate, but

quickly turns yellow...

you can see the color of the soil, very white, high levels of lime

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with the help of Mauser, Pindo and others, i learn something about irrigation , nutrients and soil...i am a bad student but i remember something...

...i can´t apply much fertilizer because my well water has a lot of salts, mainly calcium carbonate /bicarbonate, about 1.2 mS and 8.xPh it isn´t a good water, is a waste water...

...when the water is extracted from the well to the tank, i always add sulfuric acid to precipitate calcium carbonate/bicarbonate in calcium sulfate, the Ph decrease and the acidity of the water works to the good way...and for others acidophilic palms.

...i usually combine chemical with organic fertilizer...,I look always the result of mixing, pH 6 and not more than 1.5ms...

now at least they have a good green colour, but they don´t grow as a rockets...

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from the first pic to the last one have elapsed four years...

...the butias seems also like the "alien blood"...

post-1753-0-73862400-1358842786_thumb.jp

best regards

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Phoenikakias

I think the type of clay soil I have retains too much water during my wet, maritime winter, more than a Syagrus would tolerate without signs of dislike. Even in pot with potting soil a small seedling seemed to dislike moisture (see pic below the pot in front of metal tube). Sergiskan what is the analogue of N-P-K in your fertilizer (3-1-3 or 1-1-1) ?

post-6141-0-35678400-1358854159_thumb.jp

Edited by Phoenikakias

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sergiskan

...i have yet two romanzoffina small seedling in a pot, genetics are different, from different palm trees, while one is green, the other I have to be careful with excess water...

I use these two fertilizers with syagrus and butias, http://www.compo-expert.com/es/home/productos/fertilizantes-solubles-npk-de-alta-calidad/hakaphos/hakaphosr-base.html and http://www.advancednutrients.es/epages/214172.sf/es_ES/?ObjectPath=/Shops/214172/Products/006/SubProducts/006-0002

...for others palms http://www.compo-expert.com/es/home/productos/fertilizantes-solubles-npk-de-alta-calidad/hakaphos/hakaphosr-verde.html, sometimes mix the two types of haphakos to obtain some specific npk ...

...when I do the planting hole, normally fertile layer thickness is 2 feet, then comes a layer of pure limestone. with poor drainage capacity.

...jubaeas thrive well in my soil...they don´t need special care for grow.

Edited by sergiskan

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sergiskan

both have weed invasion ... <_<
... well, mine is generalized ... :asleep::mrlooney:

Your garden looks beautiful.

best regards

Edited by sergiskan

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sergiskan

I recently cut the "grass"... :floor:

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sergiskan
...for others palms http://www.compo-expert.com/es/home/productos/fertilizantes-solubles-npk-de-alta-calidad/hakaphos/hakaphosr-verde.html, sometimes mix the two types of haphakos to obtain some specific npk ...

...this is the link....http://www.compo-expert.com/es/home/productos/fertilizantes-solubles-npk-de-alta-calidad/hakaphos/hakaphosr-verde.html

regards.

Edited by sergiskan

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Phoenikakias

IMHO a fertilizer of 3-1-3 composition does no good on Syagrus romanzoffiana in our soil and climate. I suggest you try experimentally on another specimen the 1-1-1 (like 20-20-20) composition. I would be very curious to hear about the results of this experiment! This situation with Syagrus drives me mad. I had many times applied in the past the known formula of 3-1-3 + 1 mg and my Syagrus were getting even more paler or started to pale while they had been green. Situation was corrected only with an absolutely balanced fert. I understand that many other factors have a complementary role by the results of a fert application, but I have this strong impression, given additionally that nothing other paremeter had changed (I am speaking of the past).

Edited by Phoenikakias

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sergiskan

hi Phoenikakias I have put so many link that I have confused you, with the syagrus I apply chemical fertilizer 7-12-40+2Mg at the beginning of spring and with organically 4-3-6 the rest of spring/summer. When they began to become yellow, the first thing that they recommended to me was that i need acidifying the soil and the water, I did it and they began to improve.

I have never used 3-1-3+1Mg, before i was using 11-5-12+8Mg, but the improvement began on having added sulphuric acid to the water, and sulfate of iron to the soil...

Interesting on what you comment, only changing the value of the phosphorus you have noticed improvement, for the read thing and my experience i was thinking that the Syagrus did not need high quantities of this macronutrient ... I am confused..., It is possible that the fertilizer that you use now acidifies more the water than the previous one??

This spring i will plant two syagrus seedlings, i will follow your advice with one of them, apply a balanced fertilizer., thank,s.

It is a great achievement to cultivate that Arenga, wonderful! best regards.

Edited by sergiskan

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Phoenikakias
both have weed invasion ... <_<

... well, mine is generalized ... :asleep::mrlooney:

Your garden looks beautiful.

best regards

Sergiskan, I also have very big problem with weeds during winter. The picture of Syagrus has been taken last summer, now after some good rain in following picture toy can see how my garden looks like...

post-6141-0-62336000-1359323843_thumb.jp

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sergiskan

yes, during winter..., and summer near palm irrigation system... :badday:
I have many weeds types..., but for sure that the worst is a grass with deep and connected roots that it is very difficult to finish with it, and if i try it, i can damage the roots of the palm.

,,,if the palm is very small, the grass is stronger and takes it the food, the palm can´t grow well...

regards.

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Phoenikakias

I dont belive clay soil is problematic for Syagrus. Interesting thing here is mature Butia dump off, this happends pretty often for no obvious reason.

Ante it is not dump off. It's just that I had soil to much acidified. This year I have added lime in to the soil and things are getting better.

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