pH of your soil

[Dypsisdean]

I thought I would start this new thread, as opposed to adding on to the fertilizer one. This topic was alluded to there.

The pH of your soil has a major influence on what nutrients a plant is able to take up. It is a very complicated science, but if your pH is outside of a particular range, it doesn't matter how much of some nutrients (including micros) are in the soil, the palm (plant) is unable to utilize them.

Certain palms (and plants) have differing requirements that we could discuss. Some grow in fertile jungle with lots of humus and very acidic soils, while some grow in alkaline conditions.

However, I am more curious to know how many of you even bother to test pH? It is a critical factor, and I confess, I have only done it a handful of times, and found it very informative. Other than to occasionally throw a little lime around some of the alkaline lovers, I pretty much ignore pH. No excuses, just being lazy.

So, do you test? And if you do, what have you found, does it do any good? Do you test both pots and native soil?

[Shon]

No I don't test would not even know how.Sounds like I should though.Maybe somebody could post how to for the benefit of those who don't know.I hope I'm not alone in this.

                                 Shon

[bgl]

Dean,

I'm with you - just plain lazy!!   Never had a pH test done. But I have THOUGHT about it. Does that count?

Bo-Göran

[palmazon]

some folks use different methods - I believe Bo uses actual plants as indicators, planting as many specimens as possible, and posting photos of his results

[Neofolis]

I test all my pot every month, but only with a sensor type tester, not with a proper testing kit.  The sensor is less accurate, but will at least give me an idea of trends, i.e. becoming more acidic/alkaline.  Generally my readings are between neutral and slightly acidic about pH5.5 - pH7.  They vary slightly from pot to pot, but individual pots seem to stay about the same over a period of time.

[jam99]

I confess of not testing the pH but am planning on doing so in the future. Now those who do test the pH, do you take just one random sample or do you take samples from different bits of your garden? What about the depth you take a sample from? If I take many samples, can I expect a great variation of measured pH across the land and horizontal layers? How do you handle the output? Do you just calculate the average and take it from there or do you treat each part of land with different reading separately? What are the most frequently used ways of making the soil more acidic or alkaline?

Thanks, Jan

[Neofolis]

In theory areas that are more exposed to rain or where water is more likely to settle for a longer period will become more acidic.  That would also imply that it is likely to be slightly more acidic as you go deeper.  Lime is generally used as a modifier to reduce acidity/increase alcalinity, so I guess if you have an area that is more acidic than you like or you have an area with plants that prefer a more alcaline environment, you could treat just those areas, although obviously given time they may need re-treating.

Fortunately, because most of the plants that like wetter conditions are normally exposed to more acidic conditions that tends to be what they prefer, so if you have planted the moisture lovers in areas that are generally wetter, the pH is likely to also be more suitable for them.

[Matt in SD]

I bought a probe tester when I started my garden, but I was never convinced that it was accurate.  Since then I haven't bothered.  But I do have some palms that clearly have nutrient deficiencies (Licualas seem most prone) and I would suspect it could be due to pH issues since I give them plenty of nutrients.

So does anyone know of a reasonably priced, accurate pH meter for soil?  Or what is the best method?  

Matt

[jam99]

(Neofolis @ Aug. 09 2006,10:08)

QUOTE

In theory areas that are more exposed to rain or where water is more likely to settle for a onger period will become more acidic.  That would also imply that it is likely to be slightly more acidic as you go deeper.  Lime is generally used as a modifier to reduce acidity/increase alcalinity, so I guess if you have an area that is more acidic than you like or you have an area with plants that prefer a more alcaline environment, you could treat just those areas, although obviously given time they may need re-treating.

Fortunately, because most of the plants that like wetter conditions are normally exposed to more acidic conditions that tends to be what they prefer, so if you have planted the moisture lovers in areas that are generally wetter, the pH is likely to also be more suitable for them.

Thanks Corey. What additives are used to make soil more alkaline? I remember reading somewhere conifer needles mulch is used to increase alkanity. Is that correct?

[Neofolis]

No needles will make it more acidic.  Usually different forms of lime are used to increase alkalinity or ash from burnt wood.  Lime is usually the best bet, because there are many designed specifically for soil pH modification and you have a choice of the rate of change, etc.  Mulches like pine needles and coffee grounds can be used to increase acidity, but again there are many products designed specifically for the job.  Miracid is probably one of the best known, but iron sulfate, aluminium sulfate or elemental sulphur can be used.

Probably your best bet to increase alkalinity is dolomitic lime, which will gradually increase the pH over a period of a couple of years.  This is certainly the best option if you are trying to modify soil in areas which are already planted.  If you want to modify soil quickly prior to planting them hydrated lime is the fastest acting, but there is a danger of root burn unless sufficient time elapses before planting.  Avoid using hydrated lime in planted areas.

[jam99]

Ooops, I meant to ask what additives are used to make soil more acidic and then add I heard pines are used to do so... but I got what I wanted to know. Thanks.

[glbower]

In Southwest Florida, alkalinity is a big problem. Other than an acid-increasing mulch like pine bark or needles(slow process), is there a chemical way to do it?

I have a bag of 0-0-50 fertilizer that says its 18 percent sulphur and 2 percent chlorine. Would that work? How about using azalea fertilizer and adding the micro nutrients separately?

I have a few acid-soil loving seedlings like a Euterpe edulis that will be going out next spring, and it would be nice to start working on the alkalinity now.