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Cyrtostachys renda indoors


Zeeth

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But what I really would like to know if it is normal that Cyrtostachys renda has bifid leaves (i e 2 leaves per frond) still when 90cm tall incl pot, and how tall will it grow before I see a frond with more than 2 leaves?

You should ask RainForestt Robert who germinated more than 1,000 C. renda from seed:

http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?/topic/12673-costa-rican-collected-seeds/

My photos at flickr: flickr.com/photos/palmeir/albums

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  • 1 year later...

So now I've been trying to grow a Cyrtostachys renda indoors in Gothenburg Sweden for over 2 years. It's gone quite well actually :-)

I got it as a seedling in June 2014. It was in shock after having been in a parcel for 6 days from Germany at down to maybe 10°C (50°F) at night, was quite pale and was inhibited by a worm. No growth at all for two months. In August I was sure it was growing veeery slowly, around 1mm per week or so for the newest frond. In September I repotted it and exchanged 99% of the soil and got rid of the worm. In November 2014 I saw a couple of millimeters of a new frond peeking out in the center. That frond in the end became significantly smaller than the old ones, like an "emergency version". That frond was growing around 1mm per day. In May 2015 i repotted it into a slightly bigger pot, which it has been in since then, but it will soon be time for a new repotting. Here are some pics from today. The 3 oldest fronds have been cut off when they turned brown/yellow. It has 2 small suckers emerging too. By now it is 25 cm + pot but the newest frond is likely to soon be several centimeters taller, and the new frond is growing around 1,5mm/day.

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The tips of some leaves are brown or dry a few mm but not more than any other palm I've tried. Me & my palms used to live in Malmö Sweden but moved 1½ years ago even further north to Gothenburg. I got a bigger specimen in June 2015, which is also doing quite well. It had damaged fronds due to packing, but other than that leaves look healthy, just some minor brown tips on older fronds. Leaves are much darker green than the small palm, but I've noticed in pics that some (young) Lipstick palms have a paler green color. Just last week, the first frond with more than 2 pairs of leaves fully opened up. It's had 3 new fronds since it got here, and has 8 suckers. The 2 first fronds here were lower than the tallest old frond (but much bigger leaves), don't know if it's because it had too little light at grower or they used some trick to make it taller or because of me having quite much light, some of it a bit blueish.

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Very trustworthy sources like Palmbob (Dave's Garden) and Phil Bergman (Junglemusic) advise against having a Lipstick Palm indoors, and JD above says it's a death sentence to attempt a seedling, so I'm feeling a bit cocky ;-) This is how I've handled it:

Watering: Regarding the "lots of water" that's been mentioned that they want, I must say that neither of them drink a lot (I water the small one every 3 days and the big every 4-5 days, and keep the saucers essentially dry), and they don't mind being treated like most other plants i e water when soil is moist but not dry, but "round upwards" since it doesn't mind being fully wet all the time and can die quickly of ever dries out. However a problem with keeping it always wet is that you encourage springtails, gnats, mushrooms, mold and other fungus and easily get a very sour smell, so there are many reasons not to do that indoors.

Humidity: I believe misting is most probably pointless (unless maybe if you do it a great number of times every day), but I have a humidifier, and a hygrometer next to it, and I start it when humidity threatens to go below 40% (in winter, but also on sunny summer days).

Soil and fertilizing: This is not tricky either. I use (for all my plants) a "sowing mix" (which is about 50% light peat and 50% peat humus, and is low on fert) mixed with about 20-30% sand size 2-4mm, and ordinary liquid fert, half dose compared to ordinary flowers (but make sure it contains all micronutrients), not ecological and not slow release. No signs of stress after repotting, even when I removed all soil (but then I kept roots wet e g by misting).

Light: For growlights I use ceramic metal halide spots in he ceiling, the Lipsticks get between 3 and 9 klx. And they are standing by a window with sun from 15 in the afternoon (DST), with light blinds in horizontal position (but the first ½ year the small one got full sun until 13:00 DST without problems).

All in all after this time I'd say they are quite sturdy and enduring in many ways like handling direct sun and low humidity. Dry soil or temps even below +10C will kill them but other than that they seem quite easy.

Meanwhile I hope I'm not encouraging people to try it unless prepared to take excellent care of it, giving it both direct sunlight and growlight in the winter, leaching the soil 3 times per year, buy a humidifier and a separate hygrometer (even a cheap digital one is ok), never let soil get dry, avoid cold air and drafts (never below 10C and preferably not even 15C), repot when major roots peek outside.

Regarding the question when the stem&petioles become red, which I and others have asked but with no clear answer, I can answer that a bit myself now. By now it is 85cm + pot (but I expect the newest frond to get a few cm taller). As you can probably see, since several weeks it has a distinct red color tone on the main stem and several petioles, not all red but distinct red (mixed with green/brown/yellow I suppose), and getting one step more red every month. A funny thing is that the new frond is fully opened now but its petiole is still completely green, I suppose it will turn red later. Another peculiarity is that leaves open up long before all the frond has fully emerged, it doesn't let you wait untill all the frond is out like for all other palms I've seen.

Since I have two, I am contemplating giving the small one to someone I trust can take care of it like the members of this forum, preferably who can pick it up here but maybe can be sent by mail if quick and weather forecast is ok.

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Great info! so much I'm going to try again and have a small one on the way.

 

In the past I had a larger 3ft one in tub of water(indoors) with a submersible fish tank heater at the bottom the pot/palm sat next to. My theory was it would prefer the warmer water..and the humidity would waft up to the palm. It did fine it seemed until I sprayed it with neem oil which seemed to suffocate the palm and it died along with one other palm of a different species.

Being lipsticks are a bit pricy to buy I've held off trying again.

It was great to read about your success in such great detail. Thank you. 

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Again this thread has inspired me to try again. Palm arrived today and this is what I will try with this new one. Naturally arrived in it's own pot with soil...a good thing. Going to put in front o large east window but also going to put tray and saucer on a seed germination mat for warmth. Time will tell, and usually doesn't take long from my past experience.

 

Second pic is what I've done before with a previous larger specimen that died after spraying with neem oil. The palm in the tub is a different smaller one I bought earlier in this season that I kept inside in a master bath so it had greater humidity, but no direct sun, just bright light. It didn't like being in there at all and quickly declined so I put outside since it was then hotter and in direct sun and the decline stopped at the one last sucker it still had. Knowing it couldn't be outside much longer as we get occasional cooler nights now brought it inside for the season and put in same tub that larger one resided (and seemed to do fine) along with the submersible water heater. Again, time will tell on this one. 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hallo everyone,

my name ist Roberto and I am from Dresden (Germany Zone 7b). The Cyrtostachys renda is my favorite palm. I love the red color of the trunk and and and ... :D Anyway I got a bigger plant from a friend of mine and want to show it to you and especially share my experience with you. 

The biggest problem for me was to find the proper amount of water for it why i repotted it into a Lechuza pot with a watering system. And i have to say it was the right decision. Now the plant is possible to take care of itself. It gets sunlight from 1pm to sunset at 26°C (79°F) during the summer. As for the winter, I have no experience in my current flat. But I think the light is not the main difficulty at my place (51° north) during winter time (8h sunlight per day). Last year there were no problems and i did not need any extra lighting. Because of lower temperatures in winter in my rooms (min. 20°C (68°F)) I will spend it a heating mat, with I have had good experiences so far.

To improve my english it would be nice if you could correct my message. Do not hesitate :D  

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20160903_144031.jpg

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5 hours ago, Robi37 said:

Hallo everyone,

my name ist Roberto and I am from Dresden (Germany Zone 7b). The Cyrtostachys renda is my favorite palm. I love the red color of the trunk and and and ... :D Anyway I got a bigger plant from a friend of mine and want to show it to you and especially share my experience with you. 

The biggest problem for me was to find the proper amount of water for it why i repotted it into a Lechuza pot with a watering system. And i have to say it was the right decision. Now the plant is possible to take care of itself. It gets sunlight from 1pm to sunset at 26°C (79°F) during the summer. As for the winter, I have no experience in my current flat. But I think the light is not the main difficulty at my place (51° north) during winter time (8h sunlight per day). Last year there were no problems and i did not need any extra lighting. Because of lower temperatures in winter in my rooms (min. 20°C (68°F)) I will spend it a heating mat, with I have had good experiences so far.

To improve my english it would be nice if you could correct my message. Do not hesitate :D  

20160903_143948.jpg

20160903_144031.jpg

Great info your sharing!

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Nice plant Robi :-)

Regarding my care I forgot to mention I use a simple moisture meter to assure it always is at least moist. That works well (once you learn how to use it) for my kind of soil, I can't see how one can be sure of moisture level without it. Except of course if you use a self watering system (or keep water on the saucer all the time). With your pot I'm guessing you add water only in the container (not the soil) and flush the container a few times per year? Otherwise I think there'll probably be a lot of salt buildup over the months.

Regarding heat it goes hand in hand with light level in general (and water consumption, and even humidity): If not much sun in the winter then probably best to not heat it too much. 20C to me sounds fine in winter. But who knows, maybe you're right to add heat, growing Cyrtostachys renda indoors is still a bit uncharted territory.

Yep until recently, to be honest, my Cyrtostachys renda has been my least attractive palm. But when stem & petioles begin to turn red and there are fronds with more than 2 leaves it is bound to take over position as prettiest palm. :-)

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Hi David, 

you are right, you add water in the container but not only. As you said, the salinity would rise in the soil. For this reason, one should pour from above at every third watering til the water ad shows max. 

Regarding heat: I want to take any risks and will do it like last Winter with a heating mat. But basically you are right with your note: the darker the cooler. What is your maximum of sunlight during winter time? 

 

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Hi Robi. I live in Gothenburg Sweden so even if by a sunny window pretty far from tropical sun in winter. That's why I have grow lights as well. All my plants grow just about as much during winter as summer thanks to them :-)

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Hi David, 

i am happy to know another guy as far north who loves tropical plants like me. It is easy to grow this typ of plants in Florida or Australia or California but not in Germany or Sweden. What other plants do you still have? I have got Wodyetia birfurcate, Adonidia merrillii, Veitchia arecina and Phoenix dactylifera.   

20160803_191851.thumb.jpg.8bcf24f86d5823

 

this big one I had to give it away because I moved in a smaller flat

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20160805_234158.jpg.3ded59499d7c49848c3b

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Because of the "low" temperatures also during summer time with cool nights (15°C (60°F)) its not possible to let my plants outside. So I have to bring them back into my flat. Thats the real challenge for us :D 

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Hi! Nice to see there are more palm nerds out there than me ;-) Have you grown palms indoors for a long time? I started just over 2 years ago (not counting previous years when I killed rather than grew plants).

I have two Lipstick palms, one Kentia Palm (2.2m incl pot), one Rhopalostylis baueri var cheesmanii (1.8m incl pot), one Licuala ramsayi, one Licuala peltata var. sumawongii, one Lytocaryum weddellianum and two exotic plants which are not palms (Brighamia insignis and Jatropha podagrica). Have held my breath for two years now but might be time to exhale and believe they will be ok.

I aim to put as little time as possible into their care while still keeping them perfectly happy, I don't want to waste time on things that have no effect, so I put some effort into investigating what actually has an effect. Am considering RO filter for water and improving humidity a bit further, if I feel it's not good enough already.

I don't take mine out. I had a larger balcony before and then contemplated getting a palm and a Yucca which can stay out also during winter, there are a few that can handle sub-zero centigrades. My strategy on bugs is that i wipe them out, everybody else seem to just keep the numbers down, and if you take them outdoors I believe you will get at least spider mites, which will then thrive indoors.

As you mention we will all run into the problem of the palms getting too big one day. I have some ideas, like to move to a bigger apartment within a year, and later to aim at slower growth for the big ones by giving less light and nutrition while still keeping them green and happy of course, and at some point to give or sell them to the local "Palm house" or a hotel or mall or someone at Palmtalk who lives in southern Europe, or retire and move to Spain with my palm trees :-)

I want to get 3 or 4 more palms but 12 is about maximum what I feel like caring for and have room for. At present I am investigating how much work it is to grow a palm from seed.

I love your Foxtail Palm, it is one of my favourites.

57cc2170622d5_uppl160718.thumb.JPG.b875957cc2179602cf_uppl160717bc.thumb.jpg.b6c57cc216b4f04c_uppl151008hawaiilipstickc.

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Hi, 

nice palms. I like the  Rhopalostylis baueri. I've never seen this palm before but it looks great and healthy. I have grown palms since 2011. It all started with a vacation to cuba in september 2011 where I collected seeds from Adonidia, Cocos nucifera and Washingtonia rubusta. For me it's important that my plants grow in a climate that is as natural as possible. The problem of this strategy is, that they grow rapidly to a palm that I can't handle in a small flat :D My dream for the future is to buy a great glasshouse for all my tropical plants with bananas and palms here in Germany or as you said, move to a warmer country :) 

some pics of my Cocos (nut from cuba) that I had to donate the zoo in Dresden because of it's size. Before I moved.

20140726_121103.thumb.jpg.2aa506175ee4a120140726_121132.thumb.jpg.577b0deedd46c220140726_121203.thumb.jpg.9496301f04efbd

and a yellow one (nut from Thailand)

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The small one got a palm nerd in southern Germany of whom I got the Cyrtostachys renda. 

 

 

 

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I guess we're all a bit nerdy, then again they do create a great atmosphere, like a small tropical island.

Am just about to pot up my biggest Lipstick palm and there's the usual problem no one sells oblong pots (the present one is 18 cm high and 14 cm diam). I consider buying a rose pot for inner pot from ebay UK. But then I thought maybe suckering palms like a pot with height similar to width? Or on the other hand an oblong pot prevents it from spreading out too much?

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Morning, 

I think it doesn't really matter which kind of pot you take. My Cyrtostachys is planted in a Lechuza pot and there are no problems so far. If you want it to spread out e.g. for selling them I can recommend the use of SUPERthrive. I used it not knowing what effect it will have. :D

 

 

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Superthrive is not really a fertilizer. It is for plants that are half dead or with damaged roots. Or you can use it after a transplanting to activate root growth. 

But at the end I have made no experiment to date, so I have to believe that it works :D   

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On 9/4/2016, 4:22:36, Robi37 said:

Hi David, 

i am happy to know another guy as far north who loves tropical plants like me. It is easy to grow this typ of plants in Florida or Australia or California but not in Germany or Sweden. What other plants do you still have? I have got Wodyetia birfurcate, Adonidia merrillii, Veitchia arecina and Phoenix dactylifera.   

20160803_191851.thumb.jpg.8bcf24f86d5823

 

this big one I had to give it away because I moved in a smaller flat

20160423_130705.thumb.jpg.bb983384fa827a

20160805_234158.jpg.3ded59499d7c49848c3b

20160808_200609.thumb.jpg.86725904fc201d

Because of the "low" temperatures also during summer time with cool nights (15°C (60°F)) its not possible to let my plants outside. So I have to bring them back into my flat. Thats the real challenge for us :D 

how old is you common date palm and palm on 3 rd pic

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Rubi, no one says "SuperThrive" is a fertilizer. In fact he uses it with a fertilizer in the tests in the video. But the company does suggest on their site that it gives "faster growth and germination, vivid colors, higher produce yield, stronger roots, and more vigorous and robust plant life". I think the video shows clearly on most those points that it just does not work. It is a waste of time and money. Cudos to BrightGreenThumb for making such a thorough investigation. I can't see how anyone still has a doubt. If it had any effect on the roots it would show on the green parts as well.

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32 minutes ago, Robi37 said:

Hi User00, 

the Adonidia is 5 years old and the date palm is 4 years.

Hello Rubi,

if you don’t want to give away your date palm (like your Cocos) after a couple years because it will get too big you should think about root pruning and other measures …

My photos at flickr: flickr.com/photos/palmeir/albums

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Root pruning really? I'm interested in the subject of slowing down growth but naturally and while keeping plant green and healthy. I can think of ways to slow down growth without using such a method (light around 500-1000 lux depending on plant, less fertilizer, and adapting water to that). And I thought palms in general hate when you mess with their roots. (Although date palms exhaust me a bit with their root volume..)

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I did root pruning once with a phoenix canariensis because of the massive root growth. I didn't want to transplant it every year so I decided to cut off one third of the root. That was no problem and I highly recommend it if one have the same problem with the pot size. BUT according to my experience the development of a phoenix dactylifera is not as good as that of a canariensis in my climate. So cutting of the roots would be the last solution when it gets to big. Last but not least I would never ever root prune my Adonidia.      

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Root pruning you can’t apply for all palms, of course. And in case of date palms you must not decrease the brightness (or what it’s called): In that case you would get very looong and soft fronds. – Here an example of an nearly 20 years old date palm:

57dc34b66edd4_Phoenixdactylifera1977-04-

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My photos at flickr: flickr.com/photos/palmeir/albums

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Getting back on topic.......

I love a challenge so have experimented with smaller Cyrtostachys renda indoors and have discovered like others especially those in Northern Europe that it's not so much about humidity as it is about sunlight and absolutely keeping soil wet..always. That being said here are some examples of current Cyrtostachys renda that I have (3) with different stories. Reason I'm doing this is to find the perfect method of keeping them happy indoors so I can then buy a much larger one and guesswork  would be done. Not saying humidity isn't important but don't think they "need" as much as thought.  First example..

 

Bought this from 7heads on Ebay as a beautiful 1 gallon palm showing lots of red color for a smaller size. It was very full when I got it. This palm I put in tray of water in master bathroom where it would get more humidity but NO direct sun, just bright light from a skylight on the North side of the house. It was also warmer in there than the rest of the house and much to my wife's dismay a small window was always left open a bit to let natural humidity in, and AC vents were closed. This palm went downhill quick loosing first the red color, then one by one the individual frond clusters until it was down to the last two and then I took it, and the tub of water it was sitting in outside in full sun and our summer heat. The decline stopped immediately, and survived that way all summer. With temps at night now dipping into the 50's I brought it inside a couple of weeks ago and put in this tub with water and a submersible fish tank heater set at 84F and it's been happy in there so hope it comes back. It has not declined and as you can see sits in front of a large East facing window.

 

 

 

 

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Second example.

Found this small size on Ebay as well so ordered one. Have only had it maybe 6 weeks? and has always been in the container it was shipped in and in a plastic container that keeps water around it and the whole thing sits on a seed warming mat. Can't really tell to the touch the water is much warmer from the mat, and the small discoloration on one leave started after I received the palm so thought it would defoliate and it would die, but that has stopped. So far the palm has shown some slow growth.

 

NOTE: right now only captured rain water is used in these.

DSCF0144.JPG

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3rd example.

Wanted to try a new Cyrtostachys renda that was larger yet and a nursery here in the US had some 1 gallon ones on sale for $45.00 so ordered one up. This was a first purchase by me from Toptropicals and would buy from them again. Website said palms shipped bare root so naturally was concerned how mine would arrive since roots have to stay WET. It came in it's small grow container and thoroughly wet thankfully and starting to show some real red color.

I had pre prepped for the arrival of this palm using a semi transparent plastic tub. I wanted something with high sides to help "funnel" humidity upwards around the palm. Like the palm in example 1 a submersible fish tank heater is used to warm water.

Time will tell...........

 

NOTE: I had a 3 foot Cyrtostachys renda in the teal tub last year with same set up and it seemed to be happy with no show of decline...until I sprayed it with Neem oil as a preventative since a palm a few feet away had spider mites. I lost a couple other palms too from spraying with Neem oil, ones that weren't' as easily replaced. I was told by a nursery owner in Florida that when he uses Neem or any other oils to control insects he sprays his plants at the end of one day, then rinses them all off the next morning to get the oil off the palm so the oil won't suffocate the plant. Common sense advice it seems.

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Interesting. And hard work! I didn't know red (or orange) color came and went depending on health, I just noticed my big Lipstick getting one step more red for each month. And that a new frond is still 100% green when just about fully emerged and starts turning red from the bottom up slowly. So maybe the red color can be used as a sign of health?

My small Lipstick (which I've now given away) was of the variety that gets orange (not red) it seems, which is nice too, and for that variety the leaves seem to be a bit more pale. Even at the height of 35cm incl pot it was starting to show some orange, only so much that it was still not obvious it wasn't just ordinary brown color.

160821ec.thumb.jpg.8a2307f151e6aa7b8a04b

For virtually all my palms (not only the Lipsticks) the ~3 newest fronds are perfectly green but the older fronds tend to get a little bit brown edges or a little bit paler. Not a big problem in general, I guess I'm becoming a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to plant health, but I am considering getting an RO filter for water, and the other thing to try is improving humidity in some sense. In my Lipstick room I just got a cheap hygrostat which automatically switches the humidifier on and off at around 55%RH (since the built-in ones are always total crap). Pretty neat. Also got a proper hygrometer from Testo to calibrate my 2 cheap ones.

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Hi Sashaeffer,

nice plants. It looks like a lot of work. I'm looking forward to get new information of your experiences.

Stay tuned for more. We'll gonna show the rest of the world that it is possible to grow this tricky plant indoors to a majestic palm like in there homeland. :D  

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I've seen enough members with these larger than what I have in much colder parts of the world that grow them successfully indoors. Part of it might have been their care and culture and part might be the specific plant genetics. The downside is that these are expensive to buy to a bit more heartbreaking when one is lost, but well worth it if you have success.

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I really appreciate everyone's input and documentation. What an amazing conversation we have here! I wish we could have conversations like this for each species! :yay:

I have two 6"-8" C. renda seedlings that were shipped to me bareroot from Thailand (I potted them up as soon as I got them unpacked and have had them now for 6 weeks). I think they were grown in too much shade because they are deep green and the little fronds are reaching so far. Since it is summer (but not as wet as it should be in my neck of the woods :rant:), they have been spending time on my roofed lanai, in bright light with their pots sitting in a container with a half inch of rain water. I have been holding my breath each time I look at them because there has been no growth. I will be able to breathe again when I see each one with growth. It is comforting to see that this may take 2 months to happen.

It can get very chilly here in winter and I have not yet decided whether I should just put them up against the house at night or bring them inside. My group of V. spendida seedlings and Joey altifrons survived last winter just fine so I'm not sure whether to risk it with these or not.

Naples (inland), FL - technically 10a but more like 9b in the winter :hmm:

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Hi guys,

I like to make a mark an a new leaf to see the growth per day. On my Lipstick as well and here is the result (that's the mother plant)20160917_095741.thumb.jpg.630d09da01c221

20160919_110300.thumb.jpg.203310e9fccfc4

It grows 4 cm (1,57 '') per 24 h.

Because of falling temperatures outside I decided to turn on my heating mat in the hope that it'll speed up the growth rate. I'll continue to report on it. 

Greetings 

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5 minutes ago, Robi37 said:

Hi guys,

I like to make a mark an a new leaf to see the growth per day. On my Lipstick as well and here is the result (that's the mother plant)20160917_095741.thumb.jpg.630d09da01c221

20160919_110300.thumb.jpg.203310e9fccfc4

It grows 4 cm (1,57 '') per 24 h.

Because of falling temperatures outside I decided to turn on my heating mat in the hope that it'll speed up the growth rate. I'll continue to report on it. 

Greetings 

1.56" per day?! That's amazing!!

  • Upvote 1

Naples (inland), FL - technically 10a but more like 9b in the winter :hmm:

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On ‎9‎/‎20‎/‎2016‎ ‎3‎:‎21‎:‎37‎, Robi37 said:

:D sry my mistake 0,4 mm and 0,157''. But 1,57 is my aim ;) 

LOL I was like...this guy has a SUPER green thumb!! :greenthumb:

Naples (inland), FL - technically 10a but more like 9b in the winter :hmm:

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  • 3 months later...

Your lipstick palms are very beautiful. I just bought seeds and already 48 hour soak in water.

My English isn't good and didn't really understand, what exactly are these buckets with heater? Is the water alone without the heater isn't enough to raise the humidity?

SAM_1123.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Ilovepalm said:

Your lipstick palms are very beautiful. I just bought seeds and already 48 hour soak in water.

My English isn't good and didn't really understand, what exactly are these buckets with heater? Is the water alone without the heater isn't enough to raise the humidity?

SAM_1123.jpg

Me?

Collectors growing these will usually have the pot sitting in standing water no matter if inside or out when potted. Mine are always indoors and the submersible fish tank heater warms the water and it's MY belief that it helps keep the palm warmer than ambient air(in the winter my house stays at 68f) plus warm water when it evaporates will flow upwards around the palm in a chimney effect. I think the humidity helps but I don't think it's as important as sun or bright light, and lots of moisture.

 

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@sashaeffer - I understand. Thanks fot the clarification. 68 F is not too low temperature?

Edited by Ilovepalm
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3 hours ago, Ilovepalm said:

@sashaeffer - I understand. Thanks fot the clarification. 68 F is not too low temperature?

They do prefer much higher temps to be sure and growth isn't the same at lower temps vs hotter but when indoors and going through winter it is what it is. Both of mine are right in front of large East facing windows as well.

One other thing I've noticed and it may not be the same for everyone but any of the ones I've had DO NOT like getting watered from the top but seem to prefer to have the saturated soil from the bottom. Any of the ones I've lost over the years has been because of crown rot. All of them came to me in the soil and pot they had been growing in so wasn't "my" soil.

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