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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/25/2024 in all areas
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8 points
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Put a decent sized mule in the ground today. Right in front of my queen as a replacement for the day that the cold inevitably kills it, be it next year or a decade from now. And I did plant this W Robusta I got off the clearance rack a month or two ago so I’ll add that as well. Looks much better now than it did.4 points
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3 points
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3 points
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Since it’s on the way out anyways…. I’d make sure the pot has decent holes and freely drains. Then I’d get a couple-inch deep saucer and put it underneath. Flood the pot til it flushes through well and stick it in a spot that gets 1/2 day direct sun in a warm spot. Keep watering it from the top every time the saucer is empty til it fills back up. Get some ferrous sulfate and do a topical leaf drench, and give it a shot of EDDHA iron once in the soil. This will either quickly kill it, if there is root rot, or it will burn a little in the sun, then start putting out nice green fronds through summer. …Or, just grab another and start over. These always did well for me outside sitting constantly in standing water in the saucers, as long as they have some sun and heat…..3 points
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My wife and I rented a 4-bedroom 3-bath home for 6 days west of San Antonio Tx. at Leakey Tx. and had a total of 10 family members join us. It had been quite a while since I have been under a dark sky. I noticed the summer milky way across the sky early one morning. The home backed up to the Frio "River" where we went kayaking. Wife: Below is an image of the eclipse near mid-totality. There was 100% semi-transparent high level cirrus cloud coverage and 95% mid-level opaque cumulus cloud coverage. There was a break in the cumulus coverage for a few seconds near mid-eclipse when this image was taken. 50mm diameter lens at f/4: Ed in Houston3 points
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Hello palme talkers. We just moved into to a new home a month ago that has multiple palms around the yard. The previous owner left the whole yard to fend for itself for many years. Besides the overgrowth in general, some palms are looking bedraggled. In particular a multi trunk palm, not taller than the eves, seems quite frazzled. I have laid down palm fertilizer at the base of the trunks. The pictures show the crown of the trunk which seems to be struggling , the other crowns are looking better. Now I am wondering if I should remove some dead stuff or just wait and see. Any ideas would be appreciated. I donnot know the name of the palm variety.2 points
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New member, but have been getting some good info from everyone on this site for a while. Started getting some palms a few years back and got inspired to start a bigger garden. In DeBary FL, about 30 miles north of Orlando. Progress so far: 2 B. Alfredii, one on the left planted from a 15g in June 2022, other went in this week from a 25g. Archontophoenix Cunninghamiana planted from a 7g in November 2021. Side yard has a couple of flamethrowers, Chambeyronia Oliviformis, another king palm, Lanonia Dasyantha, Caryota Obtusa, Chamaedorea Radicalis x Cataractarum (most likely) and Chamaedorea Microspadix. Plenty of other tropicals mixed in, big fan of Plumerias. Always run the risk of a hard freeze, but taking advantage of some high oak canopy and looking forward to a dense jungle look in a few years time.2 points
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I purchased this Dicksonia around 8 months ago it has tucked itself in nicely into the garden purchased from a chain store occasionally you do get some good plants from chain stores and this was one of them it was just a bare stump with no leaves just cut of at ground level and sold by a commercial harvesting contractor2 points
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I got these oraniopsis from plumtree pocket nursery a few weeks ago they have quality rare palm and trees with some very unique stock all in quality condition so I thought why not plant one of the oraniopsis in the ground a slow growing palm this one will definitely be getting some water attention under irrigation and some loving care2 points
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I think the last two are copernicias. The boots are not splitting in the criss-cross pattern.2 points
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2 points
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@ahosey01 The Zamia furfuracea in at the Starbucks in Bartow are in full sun, so it's doable.2 points
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Kinzy Jr. is correct in that Chapman Field has a whole grove of these in their collection, Keith Zimmerman @Zeeth has posted on this collection and may have a contact there, I don't know what the process is for procuring from USDA...but perhaps he could help you contact them; also you might try Montgomery in case they sell this in their seed auctions. When I lived in the Keys, I got mine directly from Dave Romney, at the time, just about THE authority on coconuts. He had a group of Fijis that were segregated from the other types...important because they apparently outcross very easily. His daughter, Carol, ran the nursery after his death and I believe I saw that someone said she had closed the business, so maybe a longshot, but you might try to contact her and see if she has any that she would let go of. Dave and Carol warned me that Fijis were very susceptible to being sold as this while actually being outcrosses, if the parent was not segregated in such a careful way. Beware that this is a very slow-growing coconut! And it is not for cooler/more marginal areas. If you get regular frost/cold damage you might look to other varieties, since this will be very slow to replace a crown. To me it has the basic squat-shuttlecock form of Ravenea rivularis, more or less, and at least during its first decade or two has well-nigh zero of the romantic aura of the coconut. And if you get one, it must have full sun...otherwise it will sit...and sit...and sit...mine took 11 years to yield ONE fruit, and it really only started growing after Irma destroyed everything around it, allowing it to enjoy that full sun.2 points
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2 points
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Still looking for a Lowes that carries Bismarkias. I can only find Mexican fans, pindos, Chinese fans, Med fans, sagos, queens, bottles, spindles and date palms. Still a decent selection but I already have all these palms lol!2 points
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In my always cool, humid microclimate this is the slowest growing species I have ever encountered. I have one about 10 years old in a 1-gallon pot. It is free to anyone who wants it, but no shipping, pick-up only at my place !2 points
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2 points
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I've tried a couple to no success, but I probably planted them in the wrong areas. The winters always got them, though, and they would spear pull in the spring. Of course, this is wet winter bay area weather. Florida is like this whole 'nother world That being said, I have a perfectly healthy Jubaeopsis in my front yard that is starting to get some real size on it. Perhaps I should revisit the Ravenea, focusing on this area; but honestly, the space is already spoken for with the current plantings.2 points
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2 points
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In the ground in your zone 8a would never work. Too cold in the winter. Are you watering the palm frequently and abundantly. These are river edge dwelling palms that like wet soil. You mentioned that you fed it too. What kind of fertilizer and how much. Majesty palms have a very high magnesium requirement.2 points
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2 points
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To those of you that have these, any tips you can share on cultivation? Want to plant one.1 point
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Okay. I'll go for the 3% hydrogen peroxide and Daconil. Thanks for the advice1 point
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Water, fertilizer, and wait, those are hardy palms. Some copper down the crown will not hurt.1 point
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I definitely don't have an acre. But I do have a space that is more than 10 ft from the house, or really anyone elses house. Might have to give it a shot. Soil is wet and thick and I've heard they grow best like that.1 point
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I had a juvenile about 15-18' overall and it was badly frost burned with temps just above freezing. I removed 7 mostly burned leaves. The armed petioles make it harder to handle those leaves without getting cut and since they weigh 30+ pounds(guess) if they fall its going to slice you good. I decided I dont want to deal with those massive, armed leaves falling. Bismarckia is just 2/3rd the crown with of that monster. 15 feet from my largest Alfredii and it was causing some damage already. and at just 10' from the house it just wouldnt fit. The ultimate size of these is not for a small yard. The leaves are rigid and will damage other palms that the leaf tips come into contact with. I saw one on Ken Johnsons farm with a rootball 7' wide and it was 50' tall. Trunk thickness was greater than 4'. If its going to drop even leaves, they will be very hazardous and trimming dead leaves and dragging them away use proper hand, arm protection. I know this palm would survive in my yard, but after the frost burn event at 34 degrees did that much damage, I had to ask: Do I want a 35-40 foot wide palm that may drop 15 leaves all at once after a frost event. I do miss it but I am glad I wont be looking up at armed leaves like that ready to fall off with a leaf like a huge sail so it can fall well away from the trunk even in moderate winds. These leaves, like a royal would cause a good sized dent in any car when falling from even 20' If I had a big yard, a couple acres, I would plant one away from the prized undergrowth and walking areas.1 point
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1 point
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I agree with @DAVEinMB, the crown has a fungal infection that's causing stunted, twisted and brown growth. This can kill the palm if not treated. A common and easy treatment is hydrogen peroxide, it's a very effective antifungal. I'd recommend: Squirt a couple of ounces of regular hydrogen peroxide into the crown 3x per week. If it bubbles up then it's attacking a fungus. The regular 3% concentration works great, you can find it cheap at any grocery store or pharmacy. About 5-10 minutes after the hydrogen peroxide, spray some Daconil mix into the crown. Daconil is a very good crown antifungal too, and is somewhat sticky after it's applied. So it'll stay in there for at least a few days and inhibit fungal growth. Daconil is usually carried at your local ACE hardware and Lowe's. The other two recommended fungicides for crowns are anything copper-based and Mancozeb. I don't use copper because it can be phytotoxic if applied too often. I have some Mancozeb, but I haven't personally tried it yet.1 point
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Actually the rains come from the ground up in the land of down under and we put shrimps on the barbie also know as prawns 🦐 in good old down under don’t you guys call autum fall in the good old USA it seems we can’t have an arranged wedding for your lonely little chamaedorea immigration are onto that 😂1 point
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So who’s coming to thi sone? We love to hear from alla y’all!1 point
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I now have 6 Jubaea chilensis seedlings and one Jubutia. I will likely keep these potted to at least 5 gallons before planting them in the ground along the forests edge. I am located just north of San Antonio, but at over 1,000 feet above sea level, my nights are cooler and my daytime humidity is much lower. I am hoping that these can survive my zone 8A or colder winters, and the Dallas area survivors have brought me some solace. The Jubutia is the 1 gallon pot on the left.1 point
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My wife and I went there a few years ago. We have been meaning to go back because it is only about 20 minutes from where we live. It is really incredible all that they’ve done with the place. Thanks for sharing!1 point
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Currently 14c at 7.00am heading for a pleasant top of 25c, very pleasant conditions for our ANZAC day commemorations.1 point
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I have only *seen* them being cultivated. In that particular location, they were in a floodplain of black clay soil ("black cotton soil" in the US) that was waterlogged more or less for 2+ months in the hot season. The trees themselves were absolute monsters. Chonksters. Amazing. Good luck!1 point
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1 point
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The difference in the two groups could be those seed that got pollinated and the others that did not. I have collected S. amara seed that varied in size and found that the smaller ones, although round, heavy and dense, did not germinate. It got to the point where I could spot a seed with the longer, elongated fruit and know 'that's a good one' and it would germinate. This is not an overarching rule, but just an observation. The seed size and shape can vary per tree, environment, conditions, etc. When in doubt, separate the seed into groups and see which germinate. Take note of which seed sink when soaked, and if they float, for how long until they sink, and if they do sink. Ryan1 point
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Mine just started showing trunk here last year. I'm in zone 9b when it was young mine took some damage from 28 but grew right out of it during the summer. They definitely like heat also.1 point
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1 point
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Managed to get the second Royal done the next day. Then Pritchardia thurstonii and P. schattalleri . Used up the 24 units in the pack. Funny about P. schattalleri (it was sold as the 26 years ago) is it's my slowest growing Pritchardia. So me thinks it's something else. Has yet to flower. I think the guy that ran that nursery on the big island back then wandered around botanical gardens picking up seeds that may have been cross pollinated. All my Pritchardias might be hybreds. LOL But they are all different and beautiful palms. Walking w/this hernia is painful and I won't be doing the others til I'm healed and I don't even get to "talk" to a surgeon for a week. LOL1 point
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Best place to obtain the purest filifera possible is straight from specimens near Palm Springs / Anza Borrego, or from CA native plant nurseries that offer seed from specimens in that area.1 point
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One thing that should be considered is the offical temps in Jacksonville is the they are recorded at JIA which is in the extreme norhtwest part of the city were temps are about 5 degree cooler during cold events1 point
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Well, we could do the following comparison between Jacksonville Beach and Galveston for 2000-2001: Average Annual Minimum Temperature was 28 at Jacksonville Beach, 32 at Galveston. Absolute Minimum Temperature was 22 at Jacksonville Beach (2003) and 20 at Galveston (2021).1 point