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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/21/2019 in all areas
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Since I'm American, and Red, White, and Blue are our colors - this grouping is apropos. But nice to look at for any nationality.
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Roystonea regia along Summerlin Ave. south of downtown Orlando.
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First up is DoomsDave's Garden! Thank you so much for welcomming me, sorry it took me 2 months to post these!
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Serenoa repens are the most plentiful native species of palm growing on my property, followed by Sabal etonia, then Sabal palmetto. The clump shown below was far bigger until four of the tallest palms were toppled by Hurricane Irma, and since removed.
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My coconut is kicking into high gear for the summer. As it gets older I'm more convinced it is a maypan with the fat trunk.
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I live in SO. CA. on the OC/LA County line, about 15miles from the ocean.... What are the chances that this bottle will put out viable seed?... This palm has done well in this location for years (With a little leaf burn), but this is a 1st for me on this palm... Thanks... Butch3 points
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Speaking of Butia, here’s a B. yatay 4 years from an average 15g. Note the 5g bucket for scale. This thing is in the most atrocious rocky soil ever, and doesn’t seem to blink.
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Looking awesome!2 points
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@Johnny Palmseed I grow a Green Malayan Dwarf, a Maypan and 2 x Jamaican Talls. I got the Green Malayan Dwarf from a Home Depot in Vero Beach after seeing one at South Beach Park make it through Jan. 2010 with relatively little damage. I got the Maypan and Jamaican Talls from Marc Gingras at Calusa Palms at the USF Spring Plant Sale and GreenThumb in St. Pete. I have some older pictures of my coconuts at the following links: Palms and Others of Interest Coconuts in Lakeland, FL The best example of Jamaican Tall in a Central Florida environment is probably the ones at Kopsick: Jamaican Talls at Kopsick If you search these forums, you'll find hundreds of coconut threads with tons of pictures, growing advice, etc. for varieties you never knew existed. @Zeeth and @PalmatierMeg can probably give you advice for a wide range of varieties. For the varieties I grow, the Jamaican Tall has a very full crown - almost spherical in the hot summers here. They grow very fast. The Malayan Dwarfs tend to have more of an "umbrella" appearance and grow a little slower. They are easier to protect for those of us that need to give ours a little extra help through the winter. The Maypan is a cross between a Panama Tall and a Malayan Dwarf. The coconuts that come off these things are humongous; literally larger than an NBA Official Size basketball. The crown shape is a mix between the fullness of a tall and the umbrella shape of the dwarf. Depending on where you are at on Merritt Island, you might have a lot easier time growing them than those of us further inland. Certain coconuts get celebrity status in these threads, in particular any of @GottmitAlex's coconuts (grown in southern CA) and the International Drive Coconut at Charley's Steakhouse in Orlando. Welcome back to palm growing.2 points
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You may want to consider growing them in pots until they are larger before planting.2 points
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In my experience, Kentiopsis Oliviformis is more cold-hardy than Archontophoenix Cunninghamiana, and I am on the fine fringe of freezing cold, both far inland and at about 50 minutes south of the Georgia state line. The big freeze of January 2018 killed all eight of my AC, but my two KO survived (I now have four of them). The KOs were unprotected and looked badly damaged for the following nine months, but they eventually came back. On the coldest night of those two back-to-back freezes, the lowest temperature I had was 23.4 degrees Fahrenheit. Speed: After a couple of years, my KOs have not grown. However, I had ACs for six or seven years and, within that time, they went from small palms to overhead palms (i.e. You could walk underneath). ....very fast -- and that's in full, deep shade too. I wish I could say the same for KO, but they have been so slow for me. Just pay the extra money and buy a big one.2 points
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That’s my Northern CA Roystonea borinquena between a Foxy Lady Palm and a Wodyetia bifurcata. The Royal was planted between the other two palms as a tiny 5” seedling four years ago. The three are purposely planted in a tight group whose trunks will eventually meet and fuse together. It’s the warmest part of my yard which is terribly important in a cool climate.
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5 years ago, before I knew much about palms, I got a mule palm as a 2 leaf seedling. I read that they were hardy to zone 8a, and given I am in that zone, I thought it would be a good choice. I did not realize that many mules do not survive zone 8a winter temperatures, and definitely not record lows in my area. I decided to plant it anyway last week, and protect it when temperatures reach 18-19 degrees, which happens a couple of times in a typical winter. The soil in my area is extremely poorly draining clay, so I decided to plant it in a mound. About 1/4 of the rootball is below the normal soil level. The reason it is hurricane cut is because of a fungal issue. Any tips would be appreciated!
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Been awhile since B. condapanna has been on the board, so I thought I'd revisit the topic. Lucky here in Hawaii as these palms are fast, robust, and rather trouble free. Acquired seed back in 2010 and started planting 1 gallons back in 2012. There are seven in this grouping, some planted at a later date. They've been flowering for awhile now, but no seed yet. Here are a few photos, mostly looking up at them these days. I remember seeing promising photos of specimens in Calif., so feel free to post updates. Also, how bout some photos....Kim, Jason, 'Orange Bucket Mike'? Tim
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Already got some ideas for you. I'll be in touch soon.1 point
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Going through all my seed baggies today. 32 Sprouted A. vestiaria $15 plus $5 Shipping in FL, $6 for other states. Includes padded envelope and spaghum. Beachpalms@cfl.rr.com
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New growth on the Schefflera's has started. S. Tawainiana "yuan shan" - soon to be planted Schefflera delayvii - unusual looking new growth Not a Schefflera but another interesting plant - Pseudopanax laetus. This thing is growing much faster than I ever expected and bigger. Very shiny new foliage.
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Chester that makes me feel better, lol. What's funny at a local park a few blocks from me is Agave 'blue glow' which is not that hardy but it has never had damage at all and keeps growing bigger it actually mature specimen. Growing in full sun and has other smaller plants surrounding it to protect from cold winter winds. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow. Merlyn 2220 that's a nice looking agave bed, some I have not heard of before. Funny thing for me is I can not have small lava rocks as a ground cover because in three years it would be mostly covered in moss. lol. Here is a nice Agave parryi (some are hybrids) growing at Jungle Fever Nursery in Tacoma 8b WA with 40 inches of yearly rainfall and 4" of snow on average. These have already bloomed. So in the right location with plenty of sunlight, they do ok here. Photos are from other people on the net. I think the one I have is a hybrid too since it does pup but not too badly. Tacoma Zoo is supposed to have some really nice agaves I've been told. The guy that does all the landscaping and hardscape is really into agaves. One of these days I need to check it out.
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Hard to get pics in the very wet jungle right now. Here’s the Butia x Lytocaryum, trowel for scale.
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Ben what doesn't grow good for you ? Definitely some good looking Butia's1 point
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Here is the nearby B odorata for comparison. You can see the yatay in the background. Smaller, more re-curve, also over-trimmed!
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Definitely not S. maritima, S. domingensis, or S. causiarum, based on the seeds. Actually looking at the seed size and shape alone, our possibilities get narrowed down to S. rosei, S. pumos, S. gretheriae, and maybe if we stretch - S. mexicana. S. gretheriae wouldn't consistently hold leaf bases like these palms and it's unlikely to be cultivated at scale anywhere outside of Yucata, so we are left with 3 possible species. The inflorescence that can be observed on the closest palm, however, is too long for S. pumos, so that leaves S. mexicana and S. rosei as the two possibilities. I leaning towards S. rosei on the basis that it seems to me that the seeds are not solid black, but have some greenish, brownish shade to them as well, which S. rosei may have, but not S. mexicana when ripe.1 point
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One that just popped into my head, Agave Baccarat(Montana x Gentryi), has been bullet proof during heavy periods of rain(3 weeks straight of heavy tropical rain last summer) and has a claimed hardiness of 0*F. I would just elevate it slightly to prevent the roots from sitting in standing water. It’s slower growing and only achieves 3-4 foot diameter, but it’s one of the most spectacular agave in person. Here is mine:
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Yep, Philodendron Selloum / Bipinnatifidum. They should transplant relatively easily, though they grow 1" diameter roots all over the place and are difficult to dig up and move. I had a big clump that I hacked up with an axe and chainsaw. I mangled the heck out of it and buried pieces of trunk in 5 or 6 spots, all but one rooted and started growing normally. One is a nice 6' diameter clump now about 1 year later. If you are splitting it up, try to take at least 1 foot long chunks of "trunk" to each spot.1 point
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@James B, I feel your pain! I lost more than a dozen baby royals in pots over this winter, mostly because of that ghastly cold February. As for yours, alas! "Coitains, Mugsy." Pull it out, dry tears and start over. Been there done that so many expletive times. Just get another, plant now, water heavy, feed heavy. Start with a big plant 'cause it can get cold where you are. Get a R. borenquenia (big) or R. regia (enormous) and give plenty of space for leaves to fall. Come visit me to see how big both can be. Shoot me a PM if you want. One of our enormously esteemed growers had some nice big borquies. in fivers, which are plenty big enough.1 point
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I have found that no matter what sand, unless its large grain silica sand (very expensive), will compact and get too heavy. I grow in large volumes and have thousands of palms in a mix of 1/3 cheap potting soil, 1/3 perlite and 1/3 vermiculite, from cold hardy to uber tropical stuff, works very well. EDIT: I also add a hefty amount of nutricote 18-6-181 point
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Thank you all for the great examples and advice on growing agaves. My biggest problem is to much rain in Fall/Winter total of 55" with 75% falling in fall/winter. And the fact that it is so cloudy and rainy with very little sunlight in winter they just go downhill, I'm not kidding when I say it can rain for three weeks straight, have one sunny day and then rain for another three weeks. Seattle and Portland only have 30" to 37" and lot sunnier days in winter. unfortunately for me, my garden is also mostly shady. So I may have to just grow a big agave in a big pot and put it inside the unheated greenhouse for winter. I will try my new spot with the A. weberi and see how it goes. The only agave that does good for me in the ground is A. bracteosa. I also just love A. guiengola blue and creme brulee. Both are on my want list. Here are some of my agaves that grow on my porch all year long and are kept very dry. In order of photos. Parryi x truncata I think that's what it is, sucker just a little bit. Ovatifola 'frosty blue' Stricta Ovatifola 'vanzie' Schidgera 'shirito no Ohi' grow in heated shead in winter. Weberi Thank you all so very much for such great photos and suggestion.
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Here are some wild collected A. Purpurea seeds for comparison.
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Update: I think I am in the clear! That rotted spear has pushed out and opened (what was left of it) and the new push / spear is looking healthy. I marked it 2 days ago and it’s pushing an inch a day. I’m keeping up the peroxide but not nearly as regular. And i believe it really helps that May has been a very dry month here. Less than 1” of rain all month. Gave this thing the chance to dry out and push in all the sonshine we’ve had recently.
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I was on a field trip at Crystal River led by University of Florida ecologist Jack Putz. He figures that Sabal palmetto puts out about four leaves/year, and on many trunks you can count leaf scars from top to bottom, especially if you have a palm bicycle. A lot of mature Sabals are around 200 years old. This, of course, emphasizes that Sabals in human landscapes deserve to be treated decently. No excessive pruning.1 point
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James, that palm is not dead yet. You'll know by mid summer if it is recovering. I just hope that it didn't come out of a green house because the existing leaves will sun burn and that might be the knockout blow. But that February we had would have gave any newly planted palm a challenge. That was one of the coldest and wettest on record. It was easily the coldest month of the winter. I can't be too far from you (Mountain & 210) and we had several nights of frost and below 30 temps. I lost at least one palm and had a foxtail totally defoliate after having no problems last year. Anyways good luck with that royal, I hope it comes back strong for you!1 point
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5/2019
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Whoa man, that thing has really started to grow! I need to get to Dennis house. Thanks for posting.1 point
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Some more
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I have 3 planted in my driveway planter so I see them multiple times every day as I come and go from the house. These were planted out about 18 months ago from 1 gallon pots (from Floribunda). The one on the far left is a bit smaller than the other 2 but is still growing pretty fast I can’t show off with a 5 gallon bucket for scale yet, so the soda can will have to do!
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Found it! Tim, I totally agree with you and plan to do that.
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I knew if I opened my mouth........... You'll have to look hard to find them - terrible place for getting photos - plenty of seed still - but curiously, still no volunteers.
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I've been waiting over a year since I got it to see the blooms on my Pitcairnia xanthocalyx (a species endemic to Mexico). In terms of its 'showiness,' I'm a bit underwhelmed.
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A few more...... Tim
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Just got off the phone with a grower in Fallbrook, CA and he said that A. salmiana is only hardy 22F-25F, bummer really like that one. When I brought up his website says it hardy to 5F he replied "no it is not that hardy", Whatever! Var. ferox is still my first choice. Josue that's good to know, and both of them have rooted nicely. I may try one as an experiment to test it out for winter hardiness. But I still like to find something around the 10F or colder. Thanks, Man! Here is the planting area which is totally dry this time of year unless we get a really Big rainfall. Agave will go between the two azaleas. I've also thought of putting a 15-gallon Rhododendron sinogrande but they are very expensive. Or maybe an Azalea Mt. Saint Hellen's but really like the idea of big Agave.
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"Old" is a relative thing. The dwarfy-looking Serenoas of frequently-burned dry prairies and flatwoods are proving to be extremely long-lived. Modern DNA identification techniques make it possible to identify growing tips by genotype, and growth rates are pretty well known. The stems fork once in a while. So if two genetically identical growing tips a are some distance apart, you can estimate how long they've been separated. Careful work has shown that plants may be thousands of years old. They may be among the world's oldest palms. Of course the stems don't last very long. (Research was done by researchers based at Archbold Biological station, Lake Placid/Venus Florida)1 point
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That palmetto is sheltered by the garage on the east, the house on the north, and is almost completely covered overhead. The birmingham performed pretty admirably, I'd say. As a side note this birmingham was sprouted from the very last seed batch from the notorious Tulsa birmingham. Of the seed the owner gave me (several years after his died), it was the only one that sprouted for me.1 point
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Yeah, I stopped by to visit Dennis earlier this year and took particular interest in his bejofa, and it's looking real good. But clearly these palms are going to be slower in the cooler coastal SoCal environment.1 point
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I don't get all the responses about Kentiopsis being slow. My experience with mine so far is that they're at least as fast growing as any of my Archontophoenix and, in some cases, faster. I planted several small One gallon plants in the summer of 2015 and they all put out several new leaves, each much bigger than the previous. The pictures below represent plants that went from 12 to 15 inches tall to 4 to 6 feet tall in one year.
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