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Borassus aethiopum germination?


Dave-Vero

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A local botanical garden received a bunch of seeds fallen from a rather famous tree.  The advice was to sow seeds where trees are wanted because of they do not transplant well even when young.  I suspect that this isn't essential.  

I'm pretty sure I can find at least a couple of people who have grown this species from seed (likely from the same parent) in Brevard County, Florida.  I'd appreciate advice to maximize the chances of getting at least one new baby monster for the garden and perhaps a few to send to new homes.

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Fla. climate center: 100-119 days>85 F
USDA 1990 hardiness zone 9B
Current USDA hardiness zone 10a
4 km inland from Indian River; 27º N (equivalent to Brisbane)

Central Orlando's urban heat island may be warmer than us

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I germinated 10 (very large seeds) in PVC pipes. I used 8 in diameter pipes cut 30 inches long. I placed fine wire mesh on the bottom used cement blocks to keep them upright.

Seeds germinated in 8 - 12 weeks. Almost half rotted after germination ,the rest were planted out when the pipes filled with roots.Keep them on the dry side until the first leaf appears.

My seeds came from RPS.

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El Oasis - beach garden, distinct wet/dry season ,year round 20-38c

Las Heliconias - jungle garden ,800m elevation,150+ inches rainfall, year round 15-28c

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PVC sounds good.  Yes, the seeds are huge.  

Fla. climate center: 100-119 days>85 F
USDA 1990 hardiness zone 9B
Current USDA hardiness zone 10a
4 km inland from Indian River; 27º N (equivalent to Brisbane)

Central Orlando's urban heat island may be warmer than us

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2 hours ago, Dave-Vero said:

A local botanical garden received a bunch of seeds fallen from a rather famous tree.  The advice was to sow seeds where trees are wanted because of they do not transplant well even when young.  I suspect that this isn't essential.  

I'm pretty sure I can find at least a couple of people who have grown this species from seed (likely from the same parent) in Brevard County, Florida.  I'd appreciate advice to maximize the chances of getting at least one new baby monster for the garden and perhaps a few to send to new homes.

Hey Dave, 

 

I've been looking for one of these for a long time.  Let me know if we can work something out!   Please shoot me a PM, if that is an option.

 

As far as germination, yes, I would just sow in place.    The germinate easily, but take a long time to throw out the first leaf, because of the remote germination.  If you could get a transparent container, where you could see the development, that would be best.

 

Steve

 

 

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A clear plastic tube or a glass tube.  Hmm.  

Fla. climate center: 100-119 days>85 F
USDA 1990 hardiness zone 9B
Current USDA hardiness zone 10a
4 km inland from Indian River; 27º N (equivalent to Brisbane)

Central Orlando's urban heat island may be warmer than us

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6 minutes ago, Dave-Vero said:

A clear plastic tube or a glass tube.  Hmm.  

If you use a clear plastic tube (maybe divided in 2, and taped together), you could see the formation of roots, that form from the bulb.  This occurs well below the surface.  This way, you may be able to see the first leaf, as it's forming.  Otherwise, you're liable to get rot, as it tries to reach the surface - like Scott alluded to.

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I'm starting to see why just burying a few seeds and putting rebar markers above them might be the simplest solution.

  • Upvote 1

Fla. climate center: 100-119 days>85 F
USDA 1990 hardiness zone 9B
Current USDA hardiness zone 10a
4 km inland from Indian River; 27º N (equivalent to Brisbane)

Central Orlando's urban heat island may be warmer than us

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I obtained 13 of these seeds, very fresh, in June 2006. I followed the procedures earlier worked out by a fellow Floridan palm collector. I filled two 5-gal pots with potting soil, then cut the bottoms out of two more 5-gal pots, placed their bottoms near the top of the soil level in the first pots, and filled them also with potting soil. So I had two planting pots twice the height of an ordinary five-gal pot filled with potting soil. I divided the seeds into two groups and planted each group in one of the tall combination pots. In about two months, I dumped both combination pots. Nearly all the seeds had germinated, and roots and leaf sheets were forming from a central position along the length of the "seedling". So then, I planted each seedling in a 3-gal pot with the dividing point between root and seed sheath at the soil surface of the 3-gal pots. Since some of the seedlings might still have been receiving food from the seed (most of the connecting hypocotls (usage?) were already beginning to wither), I placed the seeds on a length of black pipe that I anchored in the 3-gal pot, as shown:

Bo_germ.JPG.255ad6d3329704835058f22ccc93

Here's a closeup of the developing leaf sheath on the front left:

Bo_cotyld-sheath.JPG.88cd058cda4e07fdb41

I had to maintain the juveniles in pots for several years because I was moving, clearing property, etc. Eventually, I planted seven on what I now call Borassus hill. Here are two views (orange bucket is 5-gals):

594b2eb29dcfb_Borassushill_1_MLM_062117.

594b2eb6e0102_Borassushill_2_MLM_062117.

I still maintain two seedlings in 5-gal pots (no place to put them). They have survived well in the pots, but I find they are very susceptible to drying during drought periods, and are among the first of my containerized palms to show the effects of drying.

 

  • Upvote 5

Mike Merritt

Big Island of Hawaii, windward, rainy side, 740 feet (225 meters) elevation

165 inches (4,200 mm) of rain per year, 66 to 83 deg F (20 to 28 deg C) in summer, 62 to 80 deg F (16.7 to 26.7 Deg C) in winter.

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I've also been looking for these and if i can buy some from you please let me know by pm. Thanks 

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Mike, that's ingenious.  Definitely takes advantage of the seedlings' behavior. 

Fla. climate center: 100-119 days>85 F
USDA 1990 hardiness zone 9B
Current USDA hardiness zone 10a
4 km inland from Indian River; 27º N (equivalent to Brisbane)

Central Orlando's urban heat island may be warmer than us

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I think we're ready to go as soon as potting soil shows up--the supply is depleted right now as a building next to the potting area gets new siding.  

Fla. climate center: 100-119 days>85 F
USDA 1990 hardiness zone 9B
Current USDA hardiness zone 10a
4 km inland from Indian River; 27º N (equivalent to Brisbane)

Central Orlando's urban heat island may be warmer than us

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We took apart the fruits, each usually with two seeds, today.  They were in varying condition from pretty fresh to fairly rotted.  Most seeds seemed pretty heavy and two had obviously begun germinating, with little radicles showing.  They went into two pairs of 5 gal. pots, giving plenty of vertical space for early growth.  They're out of the sun. Now to see what happens.  

Fla. climate center: 100-119 days>85 F
USDA 1990 hardiness zone 9B
Current USDA hardiness zone 10a
4 km inland from Indian River; 27º N (equivalent to Brisbane)

Central Orlando's urban heat island may be warmer than us

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  • 3 months later...

We've got stem formation; might plant out now, or wait for first leaf to emerge.  

Fla. climate center: 100-119 days>85 F
USDA 1990 hardiness zone 9B
Current USDA hardiness zone 10a
4 km inland from Indian River; 27º N (equivalent to Brisbane)

Central Orlando's urban heat island may be warmer than us

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I got mine from Christian Faulkner from this board in 2011, he germinated it in a 14" deep nursery pot.  I cut away the bottom of the pot only and planted it in the pot, the roots eventually broke up the pot.  Rod Anderson collected seeds from habitat and did the same with quite a few of them, planted in a 14" deep nursery pot with half the "seed" uncovered.  Once the leaves show, put it in the ground.  When I cut away the container of mine, the sinker root had already circled the 4" by 4" bottom 2x.  It took about 2 seasons to start pushing 3+ leaves a year.  Its now pushing 6-7 leaves is ~9' overall and has newer leaves that are about 5-6ft across.  Its absolutely drought proof, I suspect from the deep sinker root.  My observations are that these palms LIKE heat, they dont grow at moderate temps but above 85F they kick in once they are rooted.

Formerly in Gilbert AZ, zone 9a/9b. Now in Palmetto, Florida Zone 9b/10a??

 

Tom Blank

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Will wait for a leaf to show before planting.  The two pots are in a shelter that's kept warm in winter.

 

 

Fla. climate center: 100-119 days>85 F
USDA 1990 hardiness zone 9B
Current USDA hardiness zone 10a
4 km inland from Indian River; 27º N (equivalent to Brisbane)

Central Orlando's urban heat island may be warmer than us

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  • 5 months later...

We've got a green leaf popping out of one pot.  Took a while.  

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Fla. climate center: 100-119 days>85 F
USDA 1990 hardiness zone 9B
Current USDA hardiness zone 10a
4 km inland from Indian River; 27º N (equivalent to Brisbane)

Central Orlando's urban heat island may be warmer than us

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Share on other sites

Once its in the ground it will grow a root structure.  Mine looked stalled for 2 yrs,but it was very likely growing deep roots.  This palm will survive and thrive here regardless of irrigation once established.  Mine is in a dry high spot with grey sand mostly to about 2.5 ft depth.  I did not amend the soil at all as recommended, no mulch in the mix.  Once every year or two I put down a little top mulch(2") and I did clear the grass to about 2.5-3' of the trunk.  I have had several HOA irrigation failures which coincided with no rain for 60 days.  This palm is notably tougher than my bismarkckias in drought which saw some minir stress with slightly wrinkled leaf tips.  The borassus looked happy with no irrigation/rain during these events.  It's at a stage now where each new leaf is bigger than the last, dictating that I remove a nearby oak.  It is located 15' trunk center to center with a 20' overall beccariophoebix alfredii.  The future may prove it a mistake to put those two palms that close as both are proving to be wide palms.

Formerly in Gilbert AZ, zone 9a/9b. Now in Palmetto, Florida Zone 9b/10a??

 

Tom Blank

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