Brahea Armata leaf problems..,

[Omeyer72]

First off, have enjoyed reading posts here in the past and appreciate seeing the generous sharing of your knowledge with others.

Having an issue with some new purchases of B. Armatas. Purchased two 5-gallons a few months ago in San Antonio (understand that's where they were grown) and another bigger plant from Dallas, grown in CA (great guy with excellent selection by the way). Both are showing similar gray oval/rectangular spotting on oldest leaves with what I'd call a rapid expansion and necrosis afterwards. Almost all show no halo discoloration...just expansion of gray spots. Plants kept "relatively" dry by bringing under overhang during periodic rains as a precaution.

First thoughts were fungus, but nothing I've seen before. Then thought perhaps a nutrient deficiency or transplant shock, though pleased with initial root system and minimal disturbance. Using PalmGain and getting new growth (Armatas speed) though spot issue still progressing.

If a fungal issue, any recommended sprays that won't cause phytotoxicity in this 90F+ heat?

Apologize for the long read, but wanting to hopefully cover some of the basics. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance.

[Jim in Los Altos]

Owen, All I can tell you is that Brahea armata don't particularly like high humidity. In a perfect setting (Baja California is their native setting) they grow in areas with very low relative humidity and relish in occasional deep watering but not constantly wet. Are you in Arkansas? You may need to spray those palms with an anti-fungal during warm damp periods. High humidity may be a continuous problem. Hopefully they will adapt some.

[Omeyer72]

Appreciate the response, Jim. I suspected that being an issue with these guys, though have been struggling with them being a little symptomatic in the drier areas where I picked them up from. Regardless, you are dead on about their reputation about humidity and hope to secure some Clara's when available. Thanks again.

[Jim in Los Altos]

Yes Owen, B. clara are generally faster growers and seem to be less fussy regarding humidity. They're easy to find in CA.

[Kostas]

I haven't had issues with B. armata and high humidity or endless days of rain in winter. They always seem to be in top condition for me. They only hate getting sideways sun heating up their pot and being left to dry out. They like good moisture availability at all times and are eager to drop leafs if they dry out even a bit.

I don't know what's causing this on yours, I don't remember mine ever doing that

[Omeyer72]

Have a feeling I'll keep wishing I acquired Claras for the long-term, Jim, and envy my those who live in SoCal...including two brothers of mine.

Thank you for your input, Kostas. Have also noticed that during their establishment, the color is just a little more intense with a good soaking.

Will push on. As mentioned previously, even with my somewhat extensive experience with my hardier collection of Trachy's, Butia's, Needle and Chamaerops, this condition is puzzling.

Time to become an IPS member!

[Keith N Tampa (ex SoJax)]

Owen, this is probably counterintuitive, but drought tolerant plants are not necessarily plants that thrive without water. I've found desert tolerant palms to be water hogs in the pot. They may detest wet foliage, but expect wet feet. So don't hesitate to keep the soil moist, just try to keep the foliage dry when you water. There is no doubt that species has trouble with wet foliage, and its not alone. Its a problem for us here in FL on Phoenix dactylifera (true date), Brahea armata, Washingtonia (especially filifera), and Nannorhops (did I spell that right?). Our troubles in FL are made worse because our soils are nearly devoid of potassium. At least you won't have that problem (unless you are in a sandy spot). Good luck with B. armata. Its a cool palm I wish I could grow.

[Omeyer72]

Thank you, Keith. Having spent a great deal of time working in your region in the past, your challenges with humidity seemed even greater than mine, though prefer your winters. As sandy as the existing soil mix was for all of the specimens, a contributing nutrient deficiency (i.e. potassium) was one of my initial concerns. Having several Armata to work with - and a potting mixture that drains perfectly, I may step up the watering on one of the two smaller specimens as an experiment regarding the leaf spotting and overall vigor. Any effects may take a while to notice, though it is one step towards solving this issue.

[TexasColdHardyPalms]

Owen, I have a few 2 and 3g clara that I'd part with if your coming back through the dallas fort Worth area. They were in the greenhouse when you came by. I wish the armata were doing better for you but now I'm glad you didn't purchase the larger 24" box specimen. PM me and let me know.

[Omeyer72]

Joe,

Sent you a PM. You're an oasis of variety and quality in our region and still thrilled that I was able to see your operation. Am convinced they will all pull through (I think I enjoy the extra work), and the high quality of what else you had points the finger to a cultural problem. Due to this being a duplicate issue, someone has seen this before and will get me straightened out.

[TexasColdHardyPalms]

Owen, this is probably counterintuitive, but drought tolerant plants are not necessarily plants that thrive without water. I've found desert tolerant palms to be water hogs in the pot. They may detest wet foliage, but expect wet feet. So don't hesitate to keep the soil moist, just try to keep the foliage dry when you water. There is no doubt that species has trouble with wet foliage, and its not alone. Its a problem for us here in FL on Phoenix dactylifera (true date), Brahea armata, Washingtonia (especially filifera), and Nannorhops (did I spell that right?). Our troubles in FL are made worse because our soils are nearly devoid of potassium. At least you won't have that problem (unless you are in a sandy spot). Good luck with B. armata. Its a cool palm I wish I could grow.

+1 on Brahea desiring lots of water while potted (in well drained sand mixture)

[kirkhutch]

I'm not sure if my B armata is having the same issue as the one in this post but I thought I would ask here before starting another thread. I purchased this palm from a local nursery in Tucson AZ as a very large 15g a few months ago. It had some spotting when I bought it but I didn't think it was a big issue and the price was right:/ The nursery I purchased it from had at least 100 armata with the pots all touching each other and at least when I was there all were on drip irrigation and I suspect that they spacing was causing a humidity problem despite being in dry Tucson.. It had numerous leaves that were stressed and I cut most of that growth off after planting. It is growing well and new growth looks good. My question is, what is this particular disease (some type of scale/fungus I assume)? Will the disease continually be spread to new growth even if it is spaced appropriately from my other palms?  Im not sure if the nursery treated with a fungicide. Should I, 1) wait and continue to watch it for spreading of the fungus? 2) take the Palm out? 3) treat it with a fungicide? 

Thank you, kirk

 

[Tom in Tucson]

Kirk, I've found that some local nurseries are over-dependent on their drip systems. Palms that cost a little more than the common Washingtonia hybrids set there so long without the gardeners flushing out the soil minerals (salt being the most destructive to plant tissue) that the result can look like a fungus outbreak. Once the damage is done the effected leaves can never recover. If you water sensibly, the new leaves will look fine after a year or two. Butia is even more sensitive than Brahea.

Tom Birt - Casas Adobes, AZ

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