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Moving...Need to transplant

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I will be moving in the upcoming weeks. I am going to take as many palms with me as I can. What is your experience with digging up and transplanting any of the following?

1. Jubaea--oldest approximately 10 years old
2. Brahea Clara--trunk about 1.5 ft tall
3. Brahea decumbens -- older specimen
4. Trithrinax campestris --creeping along the ground
5. Washy filifera. -trunk about 1.5ft
6. Jub x butia x queen --trunk about 1ft tall and thick. leaves now reach 6ft
7. Nannorhops -- many heads
8. Trachycarpus "naga hills" --skinny trunk about 1 ft tall
9. Sabal domingensis --just starting to get a fat trunk
10. Other sabals---is it fruitless?

Will any of these survive transplant? Secrets?

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Wow-this might be a tricky time to do it if we get hit with some really cold weather-but the good news is that I don't think that the ground will be freezing anytime soon. Which is good because if it were me, I would go outside today/tomorrow and cut the roots all the way around all the palms that you want to take with you. Cut the largest circle that you can reasonably dig up (later) so that at least some of the roots are cut now. That or just wait and dig them up when you go. I am really not sure that it would make a difference to cut some of the roots now as the palms are most likely not doing any growing right now as the weather is not warm enough. It might be 6 of this, half dozen of that kind of situation. As you can see, I am kind of just talking this out as I write. If you do go out and cut the roots around the palms, I would definitely cover the ground extra good with mulch to keep the roots warmer. I think its a crapshoot either way-you could cut the roots and then we get really bad cold weather or not.

When you say upcoming weeks-what does that mean? Late Jan, sometime in Feb? Could it wait until sometime in March? The warmer, the better. Are you moving to a colder place or warmer or just east/west?

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I will be moving in the upcoming weeks. I am going to take as many palms with me as I can. What is your experience with digging up and transplanting any of the following?

1. Jubaea--oldest approximately 10 years old

2. Brahea Clara--trunk about 1.5 ft tall

3. Brahea decumbens -- older specimen

4. Trithrinax campestris --creeping along the ground

5. Washy filifera. -trunk about 1.5ft

6. Jub x butia x queen --trunk about 1ft tall and thick. leaves now reach 6ft

7. Nannorhops -- many heads

8. Trachycarpus "naga hills" --skinny trunk about 1 ft tall

9. Sabal domingensis --just starting to get a fat trunk

10. Other sabals---is it fruitless?

Will any of these survive transplant? Secrets?

Pray !

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Wow-this might be a tricky time to do it if we get hit with some really cold weather-but the good news is that I don't think that the ground will be freezing anytime soon. Which is good because if it were me, I would go outside today/tomorrow and cut the roots all the way around all the palms that you want to take with you. Cut the largest circle that you can reasonably dig up (later) so that at least some of the roots are cut now. That or just wait and dig them up when you go. I am really not sure that it would make a difference to cut some of the roots now as the palms are most likely not doing any growing right now as the weather is not warm enough. It might be 6 of this, half dozen of that kind of situation. As you can see, I am kind of just talking this out as I write. If you do go out and cut the roots around the palms, I would definitely cover the ground extra good with mulch to keep the roots warmer. I think its a crapshoot either way-you could cut the roots and then we get really bad cold weather or not.

When you say upcoming weeks-what does that mean? Late Jan, sometime in Feb? Could it wait until sometime in March? The warmer, the better. Are you moving to a colder place or warmer or just east/west?

I will wait til April to start digging. I am in no hurry to sell my existing place, but we will be moving into the new place in March...about 30 miles away. Thanks for the thoughts. I am trying to figure out what I should just leave at the old place.

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"10. Other sabals---is it fruitless"

I can't comment on you others but sabels seem to transplant easily. From what I see in m y parts, they cut off ALL OF THE FRONDS leaving just the emerging spear. They leave very little root ball and prop then up with 2x4's. The only issue I know of is wet sables like to go to wet places and dry ones to dry places. Other then that they are easy. Good luck on the move.

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Small sabals, however, can be difficult....if it has no trunk. I would dig around the plants now as kahili mentioned and put lots of mulch in the trenched area. You could do this in a couple of steps, first one side and then the other. Ken Johnson can give you the best advice on how to successfully root prune for transplant...he has done hundreds (if not more) on all different species and sizes. I would shoot him a p.m.....sounds like you have some cool stuff up there, would hate for you to lose any of them.

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The problem with this situation that Cindy has is the very real possibility of two different "shock" scenarios coming together-which kind of makes it interesting. But also could be the lethal straw that broke the chance of successful transplanting endeavor. You have the "cold shock" that could come about if we get some seriously cold weather in the next few months which most likely will happen, and then the "root shook" that will happen (or maybe not because of the cold weather shutting down root development) if she cuts the roots now. When you normally cut roots in order to transplant in a later time, cold weather is usually not part of the concern. Here is it-which is what I think is interesting! (Sorry Cindy-I know you just want a successful transplant of your palms).

If it were me, knowing that you can wait, I would start to dig around all of the palm mid-March (give or take a week or so after looking at the 10 day weather report) and then make the move mid April. As to whether some will transplant better than others, I would go for them all with as big a root ball as possible, and maybe waiting a few more wks in April to move the trickier ones. You have nothing to lose by not trying them all. Chances are that whoever you sell to could think that they were ugly, or just in the way of their garden plans and cut them down. Good luck! I hope they all make it, and let us know how it goes as I sure am interested to know!

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"10. Other sabals---is it fruitless"

I can't comment on you others but sabels seem to transplant easily. From what I see in m y parts, they cut off ALL OF THE FRONDS leaving just the emerging spear. They leave very little root ball and prop then up with 2x4's. The only issue I know of is wet sables like to go to wet places and dry ones to dry places. Other then that they are easy. Good luck on the move.

Thanks Redant. I will need luck

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Small sabals, however, can be difficult....if it has no trunk. I would dig around the plants now as kahili mentioned and put lots of mulch in the trenched area. You could do this in a couple of steps, first one side and then the other. Ken Johnson can give you the best advice on how to successfully root prune for transplant...he has done hundreds (if not more) on all different species and sizes. I would shoot him a p.m.....sounds like you have some cool stuff up there, would hate for you to lose any of them.

Thanks for the advice. I did trench one jub so we'll see what happens in the spring.

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The problem with this situation that Cindy has is the very real possibility of two different "shock" scenarios coming together-which kind of makes it interesting. But also could be the lethal straw that broke the chance of successful transplanting endeavor. You have the "cold shock" that could come about if we get some seriously cold weather in the next few months which most likely will happen, and then the "root shook" that will happen (or maybe not because of the cold weather shutting down root development) if she cuts the roots now. When you normally cut roots in order to transplant in a later time, cold weather is usually not part of the concern. Here is it-which is what I think is interesting! (Sorry Cindy-I know you just want a successful transplant of your palms).

If it were me, knowing that you can wait, I would start to dig around all of the palm mid-March (give or take a week or so after looking at the 10 day weather report) and then make the move mid April. As to whether some will transplant better than others, I would go for them all with as big a root ball as possible, and maybe waiting a few more wks in April to move the trickier ones. You have nothing to lose by not trying them all. Chances are that whoever you sell to could think that they were ugly, or just in the way of their garden plans and cut them down. Good luck! I hope they all make it, and let us know how it goes as I sure am interested to know!

Yea, I have nightmares of someone chainsawing my washy filibusta that has about 18 ft of trunk now. . :-(. I'll keep you posted. Thanks

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Did you contact Ken?....he is the person to talk to. If you want to talk about liquor....talk to me :)

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I would second talking to Ken Johnson about root pruning techniques, how and when. Ken is the most experienced grower I know in transplanting large palms. When you can successfully transplant large copernicias, with those sensitive roots, you are very good. Also, I would ask Ken how to plant and care for them afterward. The advice I have been given from Ken has been right on target.

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Did you contact Ken?....he is the person to talk to. If you want to talk about liquor....talk to me :)

Sent him a PM. We'll see if he responds. I was hoping others here had experience with transplants.

thanks

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  • i know braheas hate to have there roots messed with. im pretty sure Jubs move pretty well. i dont know if its just my bad luck but ive tried to dig washies and pot them and they always die on me.
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I have had a few discussions with Ken on pruning. He sometimes only digs a trench around part of the perimeter, then allows the palm to recover for a few months, than starts to continue tthe perimeter trench. I saw him once doing this with a 10' plus sabal causiarum, and the way he prunes/transplants you wont need to trim fronds on a sabal. He did a great job on my 10' overall copernicia fallaensis, its really starting to throw spears now after only 1 year. Root pruning on sensitive species can be a slow process and should be done when roots are growing because roots often regrow from the trunk to the edge of the rootball which he burlaps off. the transplants I have received from Ken has lots of new little roots in the rootball ready to grow into the ground. Ken will not deliver a dug palm until he thinks its ready. I have transplanted small brahea armatas, big ones are harder. Transplanting big palms is a skill for sure, you can damage the roots by even levering the trunk when handling. Some palms like livistona, phoenix and even beccariophoenix are relatively easy, just dig a good size rootball, trim back fronds and replant with plenty of good soil. Others are harder, including brahea, bismarckias, copernicias, Kentiopsis.... these are beyond my skill/experience...

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Someone say Ken Johnson? I'll be right there.

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Someone say Ken Johnson? I'll be right there.

As soon as he climbs down that Talipot

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Do you have a root pruning shovel?

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Wow what a surprise... a shame in a way, considering your garden was looking so good! When we made the move to our new place I took many of the same plants your planning on taking ( minus the sabals mine were either to small or to big to take). Anyhow I too waited till late march to start root pruning and pulled everything out of the ground a few weeks later. Everything transplanted well for me and all of the palms made the transplant.

Sadly a year later I lost my biggest hybrid (BxJ) to a beetle attack that I didn't see/catch in time.

Do take pictures of your project.... below is a picture of some of my palms about to be hauled over to the new place! Took three truck loads like this... helped to establish the new garden!

I wish you luck!!!

post-362-0-04930400-1357603218_thumb.jpg

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Do you have a root pruning shovel?

Where do I buy one? :-)

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I have had a few discussions with Ken on pruning. He sometimes only digs a trench around part of the perimeter, then allows the palm to recover for a few months, than starts to continue tthe perimeter trench. I saw him once doing this with a 10' plus sabal causiarum, and the way he prunes/transplants you wont need to trim fronds on a sabal. He did a great job on my 10' overall copernicia fallaensis, its really starting to throw spears now after only 1 year. Root pruning on sensitive species can be a slow process and should be done when roots are growing because roots often regrow from the trunk to the edge of the rootball which he burlaps off. the transplants I have received from Ken has lots of new little roots in the rootball ready to grow into the ground. Ken will not deliver a dug palm until he thinks its ready. I have transplanted small brahea armatas, big ones are harder. Transplanting big palms is a skill for sure, you can damage the roots by even levering the trunk when handling. Some palms like livistona, phoenix and even beccariophoenix are relatively easy, just dig a good size rootball, trim back fronds and replant with plenty of good soil. Others are harder, including brahea, bismarckias, copernicias, Kentiopsis.... these are beyond my skill/experience...

Thank you Tom for your insight and sharing your experience. I have a half dozen braheas....I soooo want them to live after transplant.

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Wow what a surprise... a shame in a way, considering your garden was looking so good! When we made the move to our new place I took many of the same plants your planning on taking ( minus the sabals mine were either to small or to big to take). Anyhow I too waited till late march to start root pruning and pulled everything out of the ground a few weeks later. Everything transplanted well for me and all of the palms made the transplant.

Sadly a year later I lost my biggest hybrid (BxJ) to a beetle attack that I didn't see/catch in time.

Do take pictures of your project.... below is a picture of some of my palms about to be hauled over to the new place! Took three truck loads like this... helped to establish the new garden!

I wish you luck!!!

Hi John

Thanks for sharing. That is great news that you had good success...you know I have all those jubs....I do not want to lose them.

Did you wrap roots in burlap? You haD some nice species. That sabal mex you gave me is growing fine...I will try to save it.

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Actually I wrapped everything in plastic tarps... while the palms were out of the ground, it helped keep some of the moisture around the rootball. The plastic tarps also helped when it came to 'dragging' the palms around front and loading them onto the truck! :)

I sure hope you can save all your palms, especially those beautiful jubs!!! Jv

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Actually I wrapped everything in plastic tarps... while the palms were out of the ground, it helped keep some of the moisture around the rootball. The plastic tarps also helped when it came to 'dragging' the palms around front and loading them onto the truck! :)

I sure hope you can save all your palms, especially those beautiful jubs!!! Jv

Good idea JV. Hadn't thought of that. Thanks!

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Cindy, the link didn't work for me as it seems you have to have an account...

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Oh, you can't leave that! It's got to be the biggest in NC.

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That's nice!

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Oh, I may be able to offer some advice on the one in the picture. Here is step one.

After the CAT scan let me know what the soil is like. I would tie up ALL the leaves so you can work in there. DO NOT cut any leaves off! (they are a measuring device for shock) After you make a mark on the ground as a guide, cut 25% of the circle you drew. The diameter (about 4 feet but may be less) will depend on the soil conditions and the final weight that you can pick up and transport without banging the ball (roots and soil) around. Dig about 2 feet deep and open the ditch very wide...enough so you can step into ditch. This is so you will have room to dig UNDER the ball later. When ditch is done leave it open and untie the leaves. Take a picture that day and then take a picture a month later and show pix to me.If it looks as if nothing has happened you can move to the next step. Yes you can start NOW.

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I think tying up the leaves of a jubaea that size would be too much work for me. Your gonna need like 5 people to cinch that thing up. :)

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If its any help, Gary levine dug many that size or smaller from his field to sell and I think they all did fine. :)

And if any of you know Gary.. he probabaly considered doing it on Sat. afternoon... by Sunday it was in a 30 gal tub... The man has no Patience :):lol:

But to be on the safe side, Ken offers some sage advice..

oh yeah... looks KILLER Cindy!

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I think tying up the leaves of a jubaea that size would be too much work for me. Your gonna need like 5 people to cinch that thing up. :)

I have a few tricks MattyB....kind of like how a guy hangs a giant sign by himself.

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Oh, I may be able to offer some advice on the one in the picture. Here is step one.

After the CAT scan let me know what the soil is like. I would tie up ALL the leaves so you can work in there. DO NOT cut any leaves off! (they are a measuring device for shock) After you make a mark on the ground as a guide, cut 25% of the circle you drew. The diameter (about 4 feet but may be less) will depend on the soil conditions and the final weight that you can pick up and transport without banging the ball (roots and soil) around. Dig about 2 feet deep and open the ditch very wide...enough so you can step into ditch. This is so you will have room to dig UNDER the ball later. When ditch is done leave it open and untie the leaves. Take a picture that day and then take a picture a month later and show pix to me.If it looks as if nothing has happened you can move to the next step. Yes you can start NOW.

That jub is in a high raised bed in good soil, but there is red clay beneath. It is still winter up here and we may get some really cold stuff next week, so I am going to wait until that passes before starting to dig. We have a large tractor with a back hoe that we will use to lift it to a trailer. If I understand you correctly, I should only cut 1/4th of the circle now.

Thanks

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If its any help, Gary levine dug many that size or smaller from his field to sell and I think they all did fine. :)

And if any of you know Gary.. he probabaly considered doing it on Sat. afternoon... by Sunday it was in a 30 gal tub... The man has no Patience :):lol:

But to be on the safe side, Ken offers some sage advice..

oh yeah... looks KILLER Cindy!

Hi Bill

That jub is from Gary. I am hoping it can tolerate 2 transplants.

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If its any help, Gary levine dug many that size or smaller from his field to sell and I think they all did fine. :)

And if any of you know Gary.. he probabaly considered doing it on Sat. afternoon... by Sunday it was in a 30 gal tub... The man has no Patience :):lol:

But to be on the safe side, Ken offers some sage advice..

oh yeah... looks KILLER Cindy!

Hi Bill

That jub is from Gary. I am hoping it can tolerate 2 transplants.

Hahahaha MOST of Garys palms are transplanted all around his place all the time! no worries!

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Yes you can cut 1/4 now. You should IMO.

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