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Pink rot?


BigWaveDave

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I pulled the old leaf bases off some of my king palms and found a pink powder.  Is this Pink rot (Gliocladium blight)?  

What should I do?

post-66-1159547033_thumb.jpg

David Vogelsang

OC, California

Zone 10a

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Oh, dear!

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

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If you cut into an old, infected frond there should be the same pink conidia as well as on the outside tissue.....and some streaking on the rachis.....there isnt allot of trunk there, but look for necrotic areas, some with exudate.

This pathogen will affect the entire plant, but is opportunistic, so sterilize any equipment between cutting, avoid wounding and cutting affected frond when wet...... and sometimes a broad spectrum fungicide may help slow the spread.

Rusty Bell

Pine Island - the Ex-Pat part of Lee County, Fl , USA

Zone 10b, life in the subs!...except when it isn't....

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looks like pink rot to me....i would segregate that thing ASAP....from what i understand...it's an airborne thing, and will spread quickly if nothing is done.

really hard to control as far as i know...

others on this board know MUCH more than me though...

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I found the same pink powder on the old leaf bases of 3 of my king palms about 5 months.  All 3 of the plants have been growing strong and seem unphased.  Not sure what to make of that.

I have Daconil and Bravado, which do you guys suggest I use?

David Vogelsang

OC, California

Zone 10a

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Dave...here ya go:

Gliocladium  or Pink Rot

A Fact Sheet prepared by Dr. Henry Donselman, Palm Specialist

Gliocladium  or Pink Rot:  Pink Rot  is an invasive secondary disease that attacks the bud tissues, petioles, leaf blades, and trunks.  It almost always occurs in palms that are under stress and enters via wounds or areas damaged by such causes as the removal of leaves and sunburn,  This pathogen readily produces dusty masses of orange to pink to white conidia (spores).  In severe infections, stems may die or the palms may be rendered unusable because of their appearance.  It also can invade the soft newly developed trunk tissue under the petiole.  Rarely it will cause cankers in the trunk.  It is often very troublesome on interiorscape palms where there is little air movement.

Pink Rot is windborne and prefers cool, humid climates.  Often it is seen in the Winter, and then disappears in the summer.  Palms that are known to be highly susceptible under optimum disease conditions are:  Queen Palms, the Majesty Palm (Ravanea rivularis), Phoenix sp., and Kentia Palms.  Many other palms can also be infected, particularly if they are stressed.

There is no good chemical control of this disease although some have indicated that Cleary's 3336 applied to the affected areas (with a spreader sticker) has some activity.  My research indicates that one of the most frequently infected sites are the wounds caused by ripping or tearing old leafbases from the trunk.  One needs to carefully cut the leaves with a sharp sterile object slightly above the point of attachment.  The remaining portion will brown and naturally fall-off in a short period of time.

here is the link;

http://www.homestead.com/PALM_DOCTOR/palm4.html

hope this helps

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Thanks, that fact sheet really helped.  The king palm that is infected is one that I had dug in May.  I know king palms are problematic when dug, so I can see how it was left susceptible to pink rot.  

Anyone know what the active ingredient is in Cleary's 3336?

David Vogelsang

OC, California

Zone 10a

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I've seen more of that stuff than I would like. I can add the following. It also attacks Chambeyronia and Wodyetia. The insides of the Wodyetias I lost were just exploding with that pink dust, with no indications on the outside until right before death. It is one of the reasons not to water your crownshafts, especially those in the shade. It is also one of the reasons not to rip off your leaf bases. I have seen it on old sheaths that fall from very tall Kings and Queens with no apparent detriment to the tree. I assume it is always present and a healthy palm can deal with it. Cold and wet is it's friend. And the palms that I have grown that looked like Dave's never recovered, or if they did, were never the same.

animated-volcano-image-0010.gif.71ccc48bfc1ec622a0adca187eabaaa4.gif

Kona, on The Big Island
Hawaii - Land of Volcanoes

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Just to add to Deans statement. It also seems size matters!  If the trunk is less than 1 1/2 or so, its usually a goner, larger ones I've seen recover.

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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This sounds very scary.  If pink rot is more common in cool, wet areas, would it be less likely to occur in FL, which is definitely not cool - even our winters tend to be warm and fairly dry.

Also, where can one get the Cleary's 3336, if the need arises?

St. Pete

Zone - a wacked-out place between 9b & 10

Elevation = 44' - not that it does any good

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I just found evidence of pink rot on the inside of an old leaf base of my A. myolensis.  It was a few small spots but upon closer inspection there seems to be some orangy/pink spots in the subsurface of the trunk that are soft to the touch. :(  You can see them here as what looks to be wet spots.  Also, I think this palm has had a problem for a while because you can see some eaten away spots along the right side of the trunk.  Also, the trunk's shape is more of an oval than a circle, with the right side (infected side) being more flat.  It seems like it's not fattening up on the infected side.

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Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

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  • 3 months later...

El Bumpo! :angry:

Well I just found Gliocladium on my one and only Euterpe precatoria!!!!! :angry:  :angry: Now it's personal! :(  :(

As far as the active ingredient in the Cleary's 3336, as stated above it's T-methyl (thiophanatemethyl).  Scotts has a lawn product with this ingredient which is thought to be mildly systemic.  It's a granular for lawns called Scotts Lawn Fungus Control.  I will be trying this immediately.

Has anyone had any outbreaks of this crap this winter?  Any other ideas for getting rid of it?  I just read the article in the new PSSC Journal where Ralph Velez talks about loosing some Euterpes to this stuff.  Oh, brother please help!

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

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