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Watering...


Scott

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Just got the water bill and it's tripled. I was wondering if anybody could share some conservation type methods of watering.

Thanks!

Scott

San Fernando Valley, California

Sunset Climate Zone 18

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Mulch, mulch, and more mulch. And not the big wood chip kind. The kind that holds a lot of water. In your climate, I don't think you have to worry too much about excess water. Unless, you have clay. Then maybe a coarser mulch would do.

animated-volcano-image-0010.gif.71ccc48bfc1ec622a0adca187eabaaa4.gif

Kona, on The Big Island
Hawaii - Land of Volcanoes

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Thanks Dean :)

So the mulch actually holds water? I do have clay and often wonder how far down is the water getting. So I tend to really soak it. I'm definitly getting the mulch.

I do all my watering by hand. I like it cause it's a nice way to spend time each day out there. But someone suggested a drip system.

Are they pretty easy to install?

Scott

San Fernando Valley, California

Sunset Climate Zone 18

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Scott, I have no experience with drip systems but as Dean said "mulch"!  Even during the hottest weeks I only water 2 times a week.  I do throw a little something extra on tiny, 1 gallon size stuff that's exposed to sun during the summer.  The mulch just keeps it all moist.  A nice 3 or 4 inches thick is best.

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

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Thanks Matt for the reply. I didn't realize mulching really made that big of a difference. I'm still watering every two days and it's in the low 70's. During the height of the summer, I was watering daily, sometimes twice a day - especially for the two Rivularis'.

Watering twice a week sounds great!

Thanks again :) .

Scott

San Fernando Valley, California

Sunset Climate Zone 18

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Mulch definitely helps.  But a drip system is definitely the most efficient way to water and if you have dense soil (like clay) it's the best way to make sure you're getting water down to the roots.

I think I've made these drip system recommendations in another thread already but here goes...

-The black poly tubing is fine for drip systems, you just need to reduce the pressure to 20-25 psi (the pressure reducers are in the drip system section at Home Depot and/or Lowe's).

-If you have a long stretch (more than 100 feet) I would get the 5/8" poly tubing rather than the 1/2"

-If you have a long stretch to get to where you're actually going to water (like across a lawn), run PVC across that area, then put the pressure reducer on and couple to the poly tubing.  

-Don't bury the poly tubing, it will just make more hassles later.  Just lay it on the ground and cover with mulch when you're done.

-The cheapest and easiest system for the actual drippers that I've used is from American Horticultural Supply (http://www.americanhort.com/irrigation.html).  This stuff saves a ton of time and money and works well.

Matt

San Diego

0.6 Acres of a south facing, gently sloped dirt pile, soon to be impenetrable jungle

East of Mount Soledad, in the biggest cold sink in San Diego County.

Zone 10a (I hope), Sunset 24

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Thanks Dean, MattyB & Matt in SD! :)

I'm implementing these thing that everyone has suggested as soon as possible. It seems like an inexpensive investment that can save alot of water and money over time.

I have a feeling that by the high number of views on this that alot of people would like to use water as effeciently as possible. It's definitely a concern for the future.

Thanks again!

Scott

Scott

San Fernando Valley, California

Sunset Climate Zone 18

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Scott, a friend of mine irrigated his whole yard by using 1/2" soak hose.  He just ran it from plant to plant and made circles around each plant.  He just covered up the soak hose w/ mulch.  Sounds really easy.

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

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(Scott @ Oct. 30 2006,12:50)

QUOTE
Thanks Dean :)

So the mulch actually holds water?

Scott,

It does more than "hold" water. Even the "chunky" mulch (or gravel, for that matter) keeps the sun from hitting the soil underneath and causing evaporation. And then, when your palms get larger and start shielding the soil even more from the sun, you will be surprised the difference in moisture content between the shielded soil and the soil baking in full sun. Add in the nutrients it eventually adds, the prevention of weeds, and the fact it keeps soil cooler in summer and warmer in winter, and it isn't called the "gardener's best friend" for nothing.

A tip for drip and micro sprinklers: install a good filter.

IMO---the only drawback to these systems is they can clog and you may not notice. Even with a filter, hard water can plug the little holes after awhile. And the problem is, you usually don't notice it until a palm starts to look a little stressed (or dead). So a good filter, that is easily cleaned, and periodic checks of the soil, is good practice.

animated-volcano-image-0010.gif.71ccc48bfc1ec622a0adca187eabaaa4.gif

Kona, on The Big Island
Hawaii - Land of Volcanoes

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Thanks! I've found some drip irrigation kits on line for pretty cheap. @ $45.00 there's one with a 100' hose, and 20 emitters, plus all the other stuff. But I'm going to check out individual stuff too - especially regarding the filter as Dean suggested.

I still have to check the American Hoticultural Society that Matt in SD suggested.

With all of your help now, I think I'll be able to make some informed choices.

Thanks!

Scott

San Fernando Valley, California

Sunset Climate Zone 18

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Scott,

I'm putting in a drip system for a bunch of royals that I recently planted. LA has got great weather but too darn much clay. Most of the water just simply runs off. Drip will help save you money and time. I prefer to let technology spred the water and I spend my time with a drink in my hand looking at my palms.

The president of the socal palm society recommended a specific type of drip nozzle that is reliable and won't clog. I'll contact him and find out the brand. It began with the letter 'n', but that's all I can recall.

You really should place mulch around your palms, especially in the winter. The valley gets cold and the mulch will help you cheat up by 1/2 to 1 full climate zone according to some. During decomposition of mulch, one of the products of combustion is heat. Free heat is good in the winter. Plus, the mulch forms an insulating blankets of sorts and stems off weed growth as well.

Good luck and if you're not a member of the Palms Society of Southern California, please join. You'll get lots of great growing information and meet friendly, like-minded people...like Matt B for example.

Ashton

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RE clogging...

I use the twist type heads that allow you to regulate water flow, and even stop watering (like in the winter for cycads or succullents)by shutting it down completely. You can easily remove the top for cleaning, no need to carry paper clips around. They come in 180 and 360.

For extra insurance, put two drippers per plant..if one clogs, you still have another giving water til you notice the bad one.

If you're coming to the Socal meeting in Fallbrook, I'd be glad to show you my system...I live about 5 miles from the meeting garden.

If global warming means I can grow Cocos Nucifera, then bring it on....

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Thanks for the replies!

Ashton - I'm definitely spreading mulch. But taking a little time on the drip system, as I want to get a real good one. If you could find out the name of that one I would be real grateful.

I just joined the PSSC about a week and a half ago . I can't wait to get my first quarterly issue! :D  I'm planning on attending the meeting in Fallbrook so I hope to meet everyone. You're right about the people here. And MattyB is a great ambassador! Palm people are great!

Steve - the twist heads sound real good. Some plants, you just don't want to get as much - Rivularis vs Chamaerops. Thanks for the kind offer! I would like to see how you did your drip system. Your lucky to live in such a "Palmy" area!

Scott

San Fernando Valley, California

Sunset Climate Zone 18

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(Scott @ Nov. 07 2006,12:00)

QUOTE
If you could find out the name of that one I would be real grateful.

The name of the system is Salco and their website is Salcodrip.com.

Unfortunately, the company is at a convention in Houston this week but will return Friday.

Hope this helps.

Ashton

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Here's the dripper I use....

http://www.plumbingstore.com/ed-emit.html

Scroll to the bottom of the page, and you'll see the options. You can also remove the head for easy cleaning. Also, you can connect directly to the poly hose, or use a spaghetti and riser/stake type.

If global warming means I can grow Cocos Nucifera, then bring it on....

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I like the adjustable drippers (same as steve's I think).  They adjust between 0 and 10 gph.

For the guys that use drip and mulch in socal: how often and how long are you guys running your drip?  How much water, gph, do your palms get during a drip session (palm and size)?

David Vogelsang

OC, California

Zone 10a

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