Another first for me... but question on Avocados
#1
Posted 29 February 2012 - 08:36 AM
I always have loved Avocados, but my coastal clime and smaller lot kept me leery. But I recently was in the Big Box store and they had 7 or 8 types... one of which was a dwarf hybrid!..
So I bougt a 5 gal one that should not overwhelm I hope. Any pointers? I have heard they are equally as non tolerant of wet roots as palms and have fungus issues too.
HA! I may have even decided where I could plant it in the back yard right away!!
So... any info from you Avo growers?
Thanx
"The great workman of nature is time."
"Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."
-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-
#2
Posted 29 February 2012 - 09:38 AM
I'd like to throw my hat in the ring on this too, specifically if anybody has grown them indoors.
I have one I grew from lunch that is 2 years old and over 5 feet tall now. I'm not exactly sure what to do with it. (Can I prune it back?)
"Ph'nglui mglw'napalma Funkthulhu R'Omahaea wgah'nagl fhtagn"
"In his house at Omaha, dread Funkthulhu plants palm trees."
#3
Posted 29 February 2012 - 12:05 PM
Avocados have fine surface roots that spread from the drip line in to the trunk that do the nutrient absorption for the tree. If you look at an avocado grove, all the dropped leaves are left in place to 1) allow mulch and protection for these roots 2) keep weeds down 3) and moderate temps and moisture. They need these roots to remain unmolested for good fruit production. So let the tree assume a natural canopy, even to the ground (to shield from the sun), and leave the tender root zone off limits to traffic, weeds (oh oh Bill), and other plants, if you want to maximize fruit production. They are heavy feeders and respond well to regular fertilizer.
The other "trick" is that they do not like SoCal hard water. That is why you will always see tip burn in older leaves. This is unavoidable. In years of light rainfall, it helps to do a very heavy watering once or twice a year to wash all the collected salts down and through the root zone. However, they will not tolerate poorly draining soil. Other than that they are relatively easy to grow and fast - and will reward you handsomely.
Commercial avocados are all grafted. When grown from seed it is unpredictable what you will get - but usually not as good fruit as the grafted varieties. In addition, some variaties are self pollinating, and some require another tree. So if you only have space for one tree, this should be taken into account - unless there are others in the neighborhood.
#4
Posted 29 February 2012 - 01:14 PM
Randy
#5
Posted 29 February 2012 - 04:56 PM
Just my 2 cents ...
#6
Posted 29 February 2012 - 05:54 PM
Hass is a great avocado, and if I had to pick one, it would be the one. But it needs a pollinator. To understand the way Type A and Type B avocado flowers work, here is a good article.It has been my impression that the 'Hass" variety does best in California conditions. It has a high oil content relative to other cultivars. We can't grow 'Hass' in Florida reportedly. Many consider it having a superior flavor.
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Just my 2 cents ...
http://patwelsh.com/...-avocado-trees/
#7
Posted 29 February 2012 - 06:00 PM
"Manambe Lavaka"
Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)
10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)
9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)
#8
Posted 01 March 2012 - 01:51 AM
I had a fuerte in my too, but put it back.
"The great workman of nature is time."
"Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."
-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-
#9
Posted 01 March 2012 - 09:08 AM
The store had holiday, haas, fuerte (my fav), bacon, mexicano something , my dwarf.. and a couple others I think
I had a fuerte in my too, but put it back.
Bill - a dwarf what (cultivar)? If 'Fuerte' is your favorite, why would you put it back? You can keep an avocado pruned back to 15-20 ft. Actually much taller than that makes it difficult to harvest. Pruning back a maximum 1/3 of the branches per year should have you harvesting fruit from the other 2/3rds. You could manage a 'Fuerte' Mr. Bill.
Remember what Dean stated above about root disturbance and weeds.
#10
Posted 01 March 2012 - 09:51 AM
I like the article and may go get the Fuerte and plant them in same hole as article stated..
YUM!
"The great workman of nature is time."
"Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."
-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-
#11
Posted 01 March 2012 - 10:10 AM
If it was me I would plant a 'Fuerte' since that is what you like. No sence in investing in an unknown type that you may or may not like. For me it was 10 years for a mediocore avocado.
#12
Posted 01 March 2012 - 10:22 AM
10 miles inland
#13
Posted 01 March 2012 - 10:38 AM
"The great workman of nature is time."
"Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."
-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-
#14
Posted 01 March 2012 - 11:36 AM
Hardiness Zone 9a, Heat Zone 8, Sunset Zone 28
Averages = rainfall 61". Low/H Averages i=January 60/40, July 90/72
#15
Posted 01 March 2012 - 01:45 PM
"The great workman of nature is time."
"Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."
-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-
#16
Posted 01 March 2012 - 03:16 PM
http://www.ocfruit.com/
http://www.ocfruit.c...es/Avocados.htm
Fuerte is not very good. It is very watery. The only good thing about it is that the tree will remain small. The best tasting one may be Reed. The only reason this type of avo is not readly available in the supermarket is because it does not ship well. There's also the Sharwil, Holiday(XX3), and the Daily 11.
The best way to plant your avo is to dig a shallow hole and then mound it 4x4 or 6x6 about 1-2 ft off the ground. Avo have shallow roots and does not appreciate wet feet.
#17
Posted 01 March 2012 - 04:04 PM
Per your link and the info card and others... the Fuerte gets large (tree-wise) So, like Moose said, maybe I will trim back.. ?
Now, I first had a Fuerte from a long time grower that used to frequent here.. Steve in So Cal. I thought it was excellent and he gave me several varieties to try from his grove. But as you and he noted.. its thin skin prevents easy shipping. Plus, I see it appears the dwarf may be a "A" flower and the Fuerte a "B" flower which would help with pollination.
Its all a pipe/Avocado dream anyway.
Oh yeah as a side note when I went back to exchange today, There was a HUGE Fuerte in a 5 gal pot and as I was not sure how soon I would plant, I did not get it. (It was a good 2 feet taller/ larger than the others)
But as Shon noted off line.. some of their leaves come out red, so they can look nice most of the year.
"The great workman of nature is time."
"Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."
-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-
#18
Posted 01 March 2012 - 04:52 PM
Ok...picked up a fuerte.. Now for the easy part... planting them.. ahahaha
Oh no! Another 5-6 years of looking at it growing in a "box". With weeds flowing over the sides. Ah, I meant cascading over the side,with ocassional flowers.
and The Rainforest Collection.
Southwest Ranches,Fl.
#19
Posted 01 March 2012 - 06:55 PM
I've have planted two fuertes because they do not grow very big. A two years old hass will overtake a five to seven years old fuerte. Many people said it does not get over 15 ft. The one planted at my mom's house is only 8 ft tall and it is about ten yrs old.
#20
Posted 01 March 2012 - 07:17 PM
Bill, cage it! Only poisonous plants are safe.
"Manambe Lavaka"
Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)
10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)
9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)
#21
Posted 01 March 2012 - 07:30 PM
As a matter of fact, heading to Jeff's sale tomorrow with a bagged dozen for Andrea.
Bill - screw the growing in the box for several years before planting. Get it in the ground now! You know the gophers will bypass the avocado and go straight to your rare palm roots.
#22
Posted 01 March 2012 - 08:13 PM
The size of the tree is more a function of the root stock it is grafted on to - and the fuerte trees I had were not small trees - more medium sized and spreading. Same with the tolerance for the root "fungus" that was attacking avos the last time I was growing them (10-15 years ago). Hopefully they have a resistant root stock now - but it was seriously affecting groves back then.Are you sure you know what youre talking about regarding fuerte? I'm pretty sure it's a large tree and I know for a fact the fruit is just as, if not more creamy than hass. I'm talking about home grown, not store bought. I guess personal taste and ripeness enter into it too. You've gotta let therm get real soft.
Bill, cage it! Only poisonous plants are safe.
The fuerte, like most avos, are slightly watery early in the season. But as they mature they all become more oily and tasty - and fuertes are no exception. If you get "watery" ones, they were picked too early. The best tasting avos are the ones that have matured and fallen from the tree.
#23
Posted 01 March 2012 - 10:06 PM
Bill
Always looking for "Palms of Paradise"
Cardiff by the Sea 10b 1/2
1/2 mile from the Blue Pacific
#24
Posted 03 March 2012 - 11:50 AM
Edited by BigFrond, 03 March 2012 - 12:02 PM.
#25
Posted 03 March 2012 - 11:58 AM
The size of the tree is more a function of the root stock it is grafted on to - e the fuerte trees I had were not small trees - more medium sized and spreading. Same with the tolerance for the root "fungus" that was attacking avos the last time I was growing them (10-15 years ago). Hopefully they have a resistant root stock now - but it was seriously affecting groves back then.
Are you sure you know what youre talking about regarding fuerte? I'm pretty sure it's a large tree and I know for a fact the fruit is just as, if not more creamy than hass. I'm talking about home grown, not store bought. I guess personal taste and ripeness enter into it too. You've gotta let therm get real soft.
Bill, cage it! Only poisonous plants are safe.
The fuerte, like most avos, are slightly watery early in the season. But as they mature they all become more oily and tasty - and fuertes are no exception. If you get "watery" ones, they were picked too early. The best tasting avos are the ones that have matured and fallen from the tree.
I think you are correct regarding the root stalk determines the size. I bought both fuertes from El Plantio because the manager said that the trees will grow to a max of 15ft. Despite what many websites say, my mom's fuertes do not grow very much and there's not much spreading. The trees are still rather petite. Hmm... I think the fruit may be watery because they are picked too early like you said. However, both the bass and fuerte fruits were picked early but only the fuerte is watery. The fuertes are much older than the bass. I guess this is just the case of these two trees.
#26
Posted 03 March 2012 - 12:03 PM
Are you sure you know what youre talking about regarding fuerte? I'm pretty sure it's a large tree and I know for a fact the fruit is just as, if not more creamy than hass. I'm talking about home grown, not store bought. I guess personal taste and ripeness enter into it too. You've gotta let therm get real soft.
Bill, cage it! Only poisonous plants are safe.
Probably not. I will wait for some to rep to the ground next time.
#27
Posted 03 March 2012 - 12:47 PM
They will sometimes "self thin" themselves early on after they set fruit, because some seasons they can set an unsustainable amount of fruit. So it is not necessarily a cause for concern if they start dropping immature fruit early on.
Then as the avos slowly mature they will begin to drop the fruit that is ripe. When one is ripe, they are all ripe. So at this point it is safe to pick all or any of the fruit, as it will all ripen well off the tree. (Very occasionally the new and old crop would overlap in SoCal. I'm not sure if this happens elsewhere or with other variaties - but this was rare and easily distinguishable) This was probably because on my personal trees I would just wait until the fruit dropped - much easier that way - and it would extend the season as long as possible.
And one other thing - A lot of trees will have an "on year" and an "off year." Even though they may flower profusely every year, one year may yield a ton of fruit, with an in between year producing much less to even almost none at times. Again, perfectly normal and nothing you are doing wrong.
#28
Posted 03 March 2012 - 04:17 PM
"Manambe Lavaka"
Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)
10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)
9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)
#29
Posted 04 March 2012 - 08:51 AM
Ok...picked up a fuerte.. Now for the easy part... planting them.. ahahaha
Dean thanks for your additional information. Matty is right - good stuff!
Bill - glad you made the switch. Life is just too short to make a substitute when what you really wanted was right there.
Damn the gophers, lets see a pic of that bad boy in the ground!!!!
#30
Posted 04 March 2012 - 02:46 PM
#31
Posted 11 March 2012 - 03:05 PM
"The great workman of nature is time."
"Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."
-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-
#32
Posted 11 March 2012 - 03:10 PM
I made a clearing in the weeds
I made sure to take the greatest lack of care while planting... mainly because I am fooling myself if I think I can keep ahead of the weeds right now... so I think of it as a learning experience until I can get ahead.. (ever?)
Should I wait to buy a bag of chips for the dip?
"The great workman of nature is time."
"Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."
-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-
#33
Posted 12 March 2012 - 05:16 AM
http://shop.tropical...FTED_p_139.html
It stays relatively small, is very cold tolerant, needs no pollinator, and produces fruit very much like the hass from California. I bought one last year and it is doing very well. I planted it in an area that stays dry, water it with the water from my horse's water buckets, and feed it horse manure every few weeks. It has flowered and setting fruit but I plan on removing all but about 3 of the buds. I want the tree to grow this year.
Kitty Philips
West Palm Beach, FL
#34
Posted 14 March 2012 - 07:37 AM
I see you planted both trees in the same hole, which is a technique used a lot by the rare fruit growers who have limited space. They recommend this over a grafted tree with two or more varieties on the same tree because you don't get one variety dominating over the others as much. You will still need to manage the two trees with corrective pruning and make sure that one of them doesn't dominate the other too much. You'll probably see the south facing tree try and swallow up the other one. You won't need to prune too much for the first few years though, just let them do their thing and maybe help them along by staking your main structural leaders. I've found Avocados to be structural nighmares because they want to throw branches out and down and can be resistent to making vertical trunks.
"Manambe Lavaka"
Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)
10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)
9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)
#35
Posted 25 May 2012 - 05:03 PM
#36
Posted 26 May 2012 - 10:27 AM
"The great workman of nature is time."
"Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."
-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-
#37
Posted 27 May 2012 - 10:18 AM
USDA 1990 hardiness zone 9B
Florida Climate Center zone 10a
arborday.org 2004 hardiness zone 10
4 km inland from Indian River
#38
Posted 28 May 2012 - 07:36 PM
#39
Posted 29 May 2012 - 03:12 PM
A couple of other curiosities about avos.
They will sometimes "self thin" themselves early on after they set fruit, because some seasons they can set an unsustainable amount of fruit. So it is not necessarily a cause for concern if they start dropping immature fruit early on.
Then as the avos slowly mature they will begin to drop the fruit that is ripe. When one is ripe, they are all ripe. So at this point it is safe to pick all or any of the fruit, as it will all ripen well off the tree. (Very occasionally the new and old crop would overlap in SoCal. I'm not sure if this happens elsewhere or with other variaties - but this was rare and easily distinguishable) This was probably because on my personal trees I would just wait until the fruit dropped - much easier that way - and it would extend the season as long as possible.
And one other thing - A lot of trees will have an "on year" and an "off year." Even though they may flower profusely every year, one year may yield a ton of fruit, with an in between year producing much less to even almost none at times. Again, perfectly normal and nothing you are doing wrong.
My Avo is doing that very thing right now. It flowered so heavily just the weight of the flowers bent the top of the 15' tree at a right angle. Must have set 500 fruit. The ground underneath right now is littered with marble to golf ball sized fruit, but it still has more than I think it can possible mature still on the tree. I may do some more manual thinning after it is done.
Hardiness Zone 9a, Heat Zone 8, Sunset Zone 28
Averages = rainfall 61". Low/H Averages i=January 60/40, July 90/72
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