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Bulletproof Dypsis for Southern California?


Ice Blue

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Some dypsis are easy, non marginal, grows in Southern California (dypsis baronii, dypsis onilahensis) Outside of these two I was looking for input from experienced growers about a top ten or top five list of the most bulletproof or forgiving dypsis that can be grown in Southern California. Obviously it's tough to generalize because there are different microclimates which would impact success or failure. However for convenience sake let's assume a "semi-coastal" location that is between 5-20 miles from the coast. (If you live further than 20 miles from the coast (i.e. Fallbrook, Riverside) and have had success with dyspsis that is non marginal for you please also include your input. Let's also assume a "gradual sun" spot in the garden that provides shade for a portion of the day so as to avoid frying.

Thanks ahead of time for your input!

Edited by Guanabana13
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In my very limited experience, the crosses seem to be less sensitive. None of mine are old enough to brag about yet...

Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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There are about 3 to 5 different palms going around that go by the name Dypsis onilahensis, all of them are good for us so don't check off D. onilahensis just because you have one already. Here's some others that I would say are bullet-proof, must-haves for us:

D. decaryi (most forgiving of them all)

D. ambositrae (true form)

palm labled as D. ambositrae (clumper like D. onilahensis)

D. plumosa

D. heteromorpha

D. decipiens

D. prestoniana

D. sp 'Hankona'

These all take full inland sun from a relatively young age.

That's all I can think of right now.

  • Upvote 2

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

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After some thought, I kept coming up with D. decaryi. Landscaping plants in SoCal have historically become popular due to their ability to tough it out in full sun, crappy soil & little water. This one takes the cake. Dypsis ambositrae looks promising, though it's still early. For those lucky to have larger decipiens, thay also seem in their element around here.

Bret

Bret

 

Coastal canyon area of San Diego

 

"In the shadow of the Cross"

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"Bulletproof" is too strong a word for Dypsis.

I can't think of any like that. Bulletproof means reliable under all circumstances, and I don't see that with Dypsis. Washies, Phoenix canariensis, maybe.

That said, there certainly are some reasonably reliable dypsis that come close enough to bulletproof for a novice palm nut to be able to grow them.

Here's my list for what it's worth:

D. baronii

D. lutescens

D. Super Decipiens

D. plumosa

D. ambositrae

D. leptocheilos (mucho agua)

D. saintluciei

D. psammophila

D. onilahensis

I only come up with 9.

Decipiens and decaryi are problematic for me. I've killed 10/10 decipiens and 9/10 decaryi I've planted.

I supsect, they'll be nos. 10 and 11 in D & G . . .

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

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The leader by far is Dypsis Decipians, the others are not close. After Decipians, here is what I believe.

#2 - Dypsis Ambositrae

#3 - Dypsis Decaryii

After that it is pure guesswork, but it would be most likely the rest of the high plateau palms and then the Dypsis from the south like Prestoniana.

Rock Ridge Ranch

South Escondido

5 miles ENE Rancho Bernardo

33.06N 117W, Elevation 971 Feet

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Anyone know how D. oropedionis is doing? I have no experience with this one. It's a high plateau area palm I believe.

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

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Anyone know how D. oropedionis is doing? I have no experience with this one. It's a high plateau area palm I believe.

I have had an extraordinarily hard time getting this past seedling stage. They're about as slow as any palm I have, & for some reason after it has several plumose leaves, it begins declining.

Bret

 

Coastal canyon area of San Diego

 

"In the shadow of the Cross"

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the one dypsis that did NOT do well for me this year (near san diego state)

was my trunking Dypsis Madagascariensis.

that sucker almost croaked this winter.

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Here's what is doing great for me about 15 miles from the coast:

Dypsis Heteromorpha - gets almost full sun, planted out as 1 gallon and doing great

Dypsis Decaryi - mine saw 31 degrees this winter and it doesn't have 1 burn mark on it

Dypsis Decipiens - I have 5, all in full sun and growing steadily. Have only killed one of these and it was in a pot, not in the ground. It was in too heavy of soil.

Dypsis Leptocheillos x Decaryi hybrid - one of the fastest palms I have. Wasn't phased at all by this winter.

Dypsis Ambositrae - I have 5 planted as 1 gallons, with 2 in full sun and they seem very promising

Dypsis Plumosa - A great, slender palm that seems great so far for me

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Anyone know how D. oropedionis is doing? I have no experience with this one. It's a high plateau area palm I believe.

I have had an extraordinarily hard time getting this past seedling stage. They're about as slow as any palm I have, & for some reason after it has several plumose leaves, it begins declining.

I had the same results. About 70 or so seedlings didn't make it past that stage.

I think they would do better once they are larger (of course that goes for a lot of palms) but I think they are a tough grow.

George Sparkman had some in 5g that looked pretty good. Not sure what condition he was going them under.

For me:

D. onilahensis (upright leaflet form)

D. decaryi

D. plumosa

D. lutescens

I have yet to put my D. decipiens, which I have grown from seed, in the ground.

Bunch more still in containers and are doing well (heteromorpha, betafaka, prestoniana...)

Joe Dombrowski

Discovery Island Palms Nursery

San Marcos, CA

"grow my little palm tree, grow!"

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Hmm.

Looks like serious differences of opinion are beginning to emerge . . .

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

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the one dypsis that did NOT do well for me this year (near san diego state)

was my trunking Dypsis Madagascariensis.

that sucker almost croaked this winter.

i noticed today youve had to type "(near san diego state)" in a few different posts,dewd,why doncha just put it in yer signature?

i am not being snarky.

really! :lol:

the "prince of snarkness."

 

still "warning-free."

 

san diego,california,left coast.

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the one dypsis that did NOT do well for me this year (near san diego state)

was my trunking Dypsis Madagascariensis.

that sucker almost croaked this winter.

i noticed today youve had to type "(near san diego state)" in a few different posts,dewd,why doncha just put it in yer signature?

i am not being snarky.

really! :lol:

pohonkelapa-

you have million palms.

whats your take on a "bullet proof" dypsis for southern california ?

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you really dont need to quote me when what i originally said is in the post above.

its a bit redundant,trioderob.

the "prince of snarkness."

 

still "warning-free."

 

san diego,california,left coast.

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I have one in the ground going on three years that is starting to look great. I did not mention it because there is not long term proof yet, but it most likely be like Ambositrae.

Gary

Anyone know how D. oropedionis is doing? I have no experience with this one. It's a high plateau area palm I believe.

Rock Ridge Ranch

South Escondido

5 miles ENE Rancho Bernardo

33.06N 117W, Elevation 971 Feet

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you really dont need to quote me when what i originally said is in the post above.

its a bit redundant,trioderob.

ok will take note of that.

by the way , which dypsis have held up for you well over the years ?

"you talking to me ? you talking to me ?"

Edited by trioderob
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hehe.

i am not that into dypsis.

the "prince of snarkness."

 

still "warning-free."

 

san diego,california,left coast.

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Dypsis oh wonderful Dypsis: SoCal is your new home. So many of these wonderfull palms to grow here.

Can't add much here except the acclimation factor. So, Your list of fav Dypsis falls into 2 catagories IMO: the ones that fry easy and the ones that don't.

For the folks that are patient and have a long term perspective its OK to fry your delicate Dypsis babies at first because later on the catapillar is going to emerge into a flying beauty :rolleyes: Palms like these I like to think are D.lanceolota, D.leptocheillos, D.procera var. transiens, D.saintelucei (Neoflora has one in full-sun so it can be done!) and others.

Palms like D.baronni, D.oni's, triangles, decipiens are hardy full sun champs that acclimate easlily(at least here for me) My Dypsis kindro and betafaka have taken to full sun easily here on the coast. A D.mayotte 15gal took 2 years to acclimate but is solid now.

I've lost allot of Pinangas and NewCal palms in my trail and error experiments here but Dypsis have not been so marginal. With Dypsis I've only lost one big 5gal and some seedlings but everything else seems to find it's pace.

  • Upvote 1

Vince Bury

Zone 10a San Juan Capistrano, CA - 1.25 miles from coast.

http://www.burrycurry.com/index.html

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Orange crush will grow in our climate but leptocheilos and plumosa will not and decaryii don't look great much of the time...

What about lanceolata? Is this more tolerant of cool conditions (without frost) than madagascariensis?

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I've got a D. st-luce in full sun, too. Not bad at all, a little browning around the edges, but vigorous as a Panzer division.

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

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My experience in the San Fernando Valley is similar to Dave Bs... Dypsis decipiens is definitely NOT bulletproof here... in fact, I have lost most of them, too... they are simply too slow and something gets to them before they have a chance to mature. I still have one living one, but at the rate it is growing, I will be long dead before it puts out another 5 leaves (currently putting out one about every 3-5 years). Dypsis decaryi is much more likely to survive, but lost all of mine, too, thanks to freak colds. Dypsis baronii was wiped out also in 2007, though they are easy grows otherwise. But, dypsis onilahensis, lutescens, albofarinosa and saintluceii are all doing well (though the latter is not a whole lot faster than D decipiens). I think once D decipiens gets to the 20 gal size, it's a whole lot more dependable. Dypsis leptochielos is also relatively dependable, but looks bad in my climate unless you really protect it. Dypsis albofarinosa is a good surprise for me and every one I have planted (5) look perfect and growing faster than any other dypsis save maybe D lutescens. Dypsis plumosas WERE OK until 2007 when they all croaked. Dypsis fibrosa is doing OK for me, but slow, too. I had a Dypsis fasciculata that lived 4 years and grew great and fast... but for some reason up and died this year, so hardly call it bulletproof. And that is my short list of 'bulletproof' Dypsis in inland Los Angeles. D oreopedonis keeled over in the heat of summer (hates temps over 110 it seems).

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I just dont understand why people have difficulties with Dypsis Decipiens.

Mine seem to grow like a washy.... though a bit slower for sure.

After seven or eight years mine is just begining to trunk. I get about 3 to 4 new leaves each year.

Right now, the emerging spear is as thick around as my thigh and 10 ft tall....should be opening within the next two weeks.

Me thinks it is my soil . I have sandy loam, with a layer of compost, then I continue to add 3or 4 inches of large sized fir bark on top each spring. I water once a week. Even when we get those 100f heatwaves mid summer..

Jeff.

Modesto, CA USDA 9b

July/August average 95f/63f

Dec/Jan average 55f/39f

Average lowest winter temp 27f

Record low temp 18f

Record high temp 113f

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hold up fellas... :hmm:

my snarkometers beepin'...

Brandon, FL

27.95°N 82.28°W (Elev. 62 ft)

Zone9 w/ canopy

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Naw, I'm with Jeff. It seems the people that treat them like cactus have the best luck..

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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Naw, I'm with Jeff. It seems the people that treat them like cactus have the best luck..

I water the heck out of my quad trunk Decipiens and it is doing great in my sandy soil.

I also ammended super heavy with organics

they must not like clay soil ???

Edited by trioderob
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correct, they don't like clay. But neither do Dypsis decaryi but they will thrive in clay if you don't irrigate them. So, if you have clay, maybe stop watering D. decipiens and see how it does. If you have excellent drainage you can water a lot more.

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

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I've had mostly the same experiences as others have mentioned. Here are some of the palms I've tried more than once, giving me some confidence I didn't just get a plant with better (or worse) than average genetics. Also, I tried many of these palms in Altadena (3 years, inland climate, pure DG) and my new place in Los Angeles (4.5 years, halfway between a coastal/inland climate, alkaline/clayey soil).

How I would rank them from best to worst...

Dypsis decaryi - seems to be the best, always looks perfect

Dypsis onilahensis - always grow well and look perfect. As Matty said, I have at least 3-4 distinct plants that are all "onilahensis"

Dypsis decipiens - grows well, always looks perfect. I've never lost a plant, although I did lose one head from one plant. They are SLOW

Dypsis lutescens - grows fast and never dies, but looks fairly spotted/crappy in the winter

Dypsis pembana - this is a strange one. I have three plants that started as seedlings with bright red petioles/crownshafts. These three are FAST and always look perfect, and are probably the "best" Dypsis I've grown. However, I've purchased several other Dypsis pembana that started out as seedlings with green petioles with small spots. These palms are all slow, and take a major beating each winter. I think these latter palms might actually be a form of Dypsis madagascariensis, but I'm not sure. In any case, the red petiole Dypsis pembana is a definite winner!

Dypsis leptocheilos - most of my plants are fast and always look great. However, I've had two plants languish and never really grow - maybe genetic variation?

Dypsis crinita/fibrosa/utilis - always look good, but are pretty slow growing

Dypsis "neoploga pink" - grow fast and never die, but the leaves spot badly in the winter and they never really look healthy

Dypsis plumosa - I've lost one plant, another looks like it's on it's way out, and none of my plants look all that great.

Dypsis baronii - did very well in Altadena. In LA I've lost 2/4, 1/4 looks terrible and will probably die soon, 1/4 looks perfect and is growing well

Dypsis (small species) - all have died, except one Dypsis fasciculata, which looks like crap. Chamaedorea are WAYYYY better for SoCal

Some random thoughts on other various species....

My single plant of Dypsis prestoniana has grown very well, but I've only tried one. Dypsis ambositrae looks to be a winner, but my three plants have only been in the ground for two years. Also, I purchased two small seedlings of Dypsis oropedionis many years ago (7?). One died as a small plant, and the other never really grew in a container in my greenhouse. I finally planted it last year and it's exploding with growth, and it looks flawless. I finally planted 2/3 Dypsis saintelucei last year - they had always grown well in containers and are now doing well in the ground.

Here's a photo of one of my Dypsis decipiens - looking perfect even though it's been shaded out by the other palms around it.

post-74-068587600 1302725673_thumb.jpg

Jack Sayers

East Los Angeles

growing cold tolerant palms halfway between the equator and the arctic circle...

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Here's my inland two cents on the best Dypsis from riverside.....

1) Decipiens- loves the heat, and with my DG soil... all three that I have have never blinked.

2) Ambositrae- had four little baby seedlings in the ground in 2007... not a leaf spot on them. Still happy

3) Onilahensis- seems hardier and better handles the sun than my Baroniis

4) Baronii- pretty hardy with a little sun protection..

5) Lutescens- always gets ratty in winter, but grows out of it really fast

Dave

 

Riverside, CA Z 9b

1700 ft. elevation

approx 40 miles inland

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I've had mostly the same experiences as others have mentioned. Here are some of the palms I've tried more than once, giving me some confidence I didn't just get a plant with better (or worse) than average genetics. Also, I tried many of these palms in Altadena (3 years, inland climate, pure DG) and my new place in Los Angeles (4.5 years, halfway between a coastal/inland climate, alkaline/clayey soil).

How I would rank them from best to worst...

Dypsis decaryi - seems to be the best, always looks perfect

Dypsis onilahensis - always grow well and look perfect. As Matty said, I have at least 3-4 distinct plants that are all "onilahensis"

Dypsis decipiens - grows well, always looks perfect. I've never lost a plant, although I did lose one head from one plant. They are SLOW

Dypsis lutescens - grows fast and never dies, but looks fairly spotted/crappy in the winter

Dypsis pembana - this is a strange one. I have three plants that started as seedlings with bright red petioles/crownshafts. These three are FAST and always look perfect, and are probably the "best" Dypsis I've grown. However, I've purchased several other Dypsis pembana that started out as seedlings with green petioles with small spots. These palms are all slow, and take a major beating each winter. I think these latter palms might actually be a form of Dypsis madagascariensis, but I'm not sure. In any case, the red petiole Dypsis pembana is a definite winner!

Dypsis leptocheilos - most of my plants are fast and always look great. However, I've had two plants languish and never really grow - maybe genetic variation?

Dypsis crinita/fibrosa/utilis - always look good, but are pretty slow growing

Dypsis "neoploga pink" - grow fast and never die, but the leaves spot badly in the winter and they never really look healthy

Dypsis plumosa - I've lost one plant, another looks like it's on it's way out, and none of my plants look all that great.

Dypsis baronii - did very well in Altadena. In LA I've lost 2/4, 1/4 looks terrible and will probably die soon, 1/4 looks perfect and is growing well

Dypsis (small species) - all have died, except one Dypsis fasciculata, which looks like crap. Chamaedorea are WAYYYY better for SoCal

Some random thoughts on other various species....

My single plant of Dypsis prestoniana has grown very well, but I've only tried one. Dypsis ambositrae looks to be a winner, but my three plants have only been in the ground for two years. Also, I purchased two small seedlings of Dypsis oropedionis many years ago (7?). One died as a small plant, and the other never really grew in a container in my greenhouse. I finally planted it last year and it's exploding with growth, and it looks flawless. I finally planted 2/3 Dypsis saintelucei last year - they had always grown well in containers and are now doing well in the ground.

Here's a photo of one of my Dypsis decipiens - looking perfect even though it's been shaded out by the other palms around it.

Jack-

That decipeins looks great. Any picture you can post of that oropedionis? Sun? Shade? :)

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

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I just dont understand why people have difficulties with Dypsis Decipiens.

Mine seem to grow like a washy.... though a bit slower for sure.

After seven or eight years mine is just begining to trunk. I get about 3 to 4 new leaves each year.

Right now, the emerging spear is as thick around as my thigh and 10 ft tall....should be opening within the next two weeks.

Me thinks it is my soil . I have sandy loam, with a layer of compost, then I continue to add 3or 4 inches of large sized fir bark on top each spring. I water once a week. Even when we get those 100f heatwaves mid summer..

Jeff.

Jeff, Your D. decipiens is looking incredible. I have this picture of it from last year as my screen saver.

Dypsisdecipiens032.jpg

Mine are all doing well, although much smaller. Planted years after Jeff's. D. baronii has also done nicely in the ground, under shade cloth. D. onilensis are all dead here at my place.

Glenn

Modesto, California

 

Sunset Zone 14   USDA 9b

 

Low Temp. 19F/-7C 12-20-1990         

 

High Temp. 111F/43C 07-23-2006

 

Annual Average Precipitation 13.12 inches/yr.

 

             

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NICE decipiens.

I've got a decipiens that has split into 4 and now it has 6 spears coming out of it. Mental thing it is. It's going to grow sideways instead of up, but with so many trunks it is more likely to set seed, hopefully on all of them. It sure has a mind of its own. :D

Best regards

Tyrone

Millbrook, "Kinjarling" Noongar word meaning "Place of Rain", Rainbow Coast, Western Australia 35S. Warm temperate. Csb Koeppen Climate classification. Cool nights all year round.

 

 

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I just dont understand why people have difficulties with Dypsis Decipiens.

Mine seem to grow like a washy.... though a bit slower for sure.

After seven or eight years mine is just begining to trunk. I get about 3 to 4 new leaves each year.

Right now, the emerging spear is as thick around as my thigh and 10 ft tall....should be opening within the next two weeks.

Me thinks it is my soil . I have sandy loam, with a layer of compost, then I continue to add 3or 4 inches of large sized fir bark on top each spring. I water once a week. Even when we get those 100f heatwaves mid summer..

Jeff.

Jeff, Your D. decipiens is looking incredible. I have this picture of it from last year as my screen saver.

Dypsisdecipiens032.jpg

Mine are all doing well, although much smaller. Planted years after Jeff's. D. baronii has also done nicely in the ground, under shade cloth. D. onilensis are all dead here at my place.

Very good pic Glenn, you should have it posted on the NorCal palm palm society web site.

Just out of the frame is my Beccariophoenix alfredii make it through the winter with very minor spotting.

jeff

Modesto, CA USDA 9b

July/August average 95f/63f

Dec/Jan average 55f/39f

Average lowest winter temp 27f

Record low temp 18f

Record high temp 113f

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For me D. baronii is the closest to bulletproof here. I've got quite a few scattered over the garden and I never have to pay them too much attention for them to look perfect. I'd say D. decipiens is second in line. Though I killed a small one years ago from planting it too deep, I now have one that grows steadily and is now about 3m or 10 feet tall. D. onilahensis is much slower than D. baronii but similarly hardy. D. 'canaliculata' which is probably prestoniana or another of the big curly family Dypsis is growing well, while D. carlsmithii is hanging in there. I've had a D. lutescens growing for years that always has visible cold damage but is now nearly 3m or 10 feet tall.

I've also got seedlings of D. 'bejofa', the true D. ambositrae, D. plumosa and D. tokoravina. All are very slow but all seem to cope with the winters well and I'd expect that with the extra heat of SoCal these should be good candidates. I've never tried D. decaryi, but there are quite a few nice specimens popping up around town. There is not quite enough heat here for them to be entirely happy year round however. I'm not surprised decaryi grows well in SoCal where that bit of extra warmth accelerates its growth. There once was an orange crush at a nursery that has since shut down that was growing steadily however I have no idea what has become of it.

It is worth noting I've tried many others without success. D. scottiana was a wimp, as was D. heterophylla. D. sp White (sold as tsaratanensis) survived for a few years without really growing. D. sp. dark mealy bug (sold as ovobontsira) was growing very well before being eaten by the same unknown pest that finished a similarly well growing D. prestoniana among others.

Edited by tim_brissy_13

Tim Brisbane

Patterson Lakes, bayside Melbourne, Australia

Rarely Frost

2005 Minimum: 2.6C,  Maximum: 44C

2005 Average: 17.2C, warmest on record.

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I've had mostly the same experiences as others have mentioned. Here are some of the palms I've tried more than once, giving me some confidence I didn't just get a plant with better (or worse) than average genetics. Also, I tried many of these palms in Altadena (3 years, inland climate, pure DG) and my new place in Los Angeles (4.5 years, halfway between a coastal/inland climate, alkaline/clayey soil).

How I would rank them from best to worst...

Dypsis decaryi - seems to be the best, always looks perfect

Dypsis onilahensis - always grow well and look perfect. As Matty said, I have at least 3-4 distinct plants that are all "onilahensis"

Dypsis decipiens - grows well, always looks perfect. I've never lost a plant, although I did lose one head from one plant. They are SLOW

Dypsis lutescens - grows fast and never dies, but looks fairly spotted/crappy in the winter

Dypsis pembana - this is a strange one. I have three plants that started as seedlings with bright red petioles/crownshafts. These three are FAST and always look perfect, and are probably the "best" Dypsis I've grown. However, I've purchased several other Dypsis pembana that started out as seedlings with green petioles with small spots. These palms are all slow, and take a major beating each winter. I think these latter palms might actually be a form of Dypsis madagascariensis, but I'm not sure. In any case, the red petiole Dypsis pembana is a definite winner!

Dypsis leptocheilos - most of my plants are fast and always look great. However, I've had two plants languish and never really grow - maybe genetic variation?

Dypsis crinita/fibrosa/utilis - always look good, but are pretty slow growing

Dypsis "neoploga pink" - grow fast and never die, but the leaves spot badly in the winter and they never really look healthy

Dypsis plumosa - I've lost one plant, another looks like it's on it's way out, and none of my plants look all that great.

Dypsis baronii - did very well in Altadena. In LA I've lost 2/4, 1/4 looks terrible and will probably die soon, 1/4 looks perfect and is growing well

Dypsis (small species) - all have died, except one Dypsis fasciculata, which looks like crap. Chamaedorea are WAYYYY better for SoCal

Some random thoughts on other various species....

My single plant of Dypsis prestoniana has grown very well, but I've only tried one. Dypsis ambositrae looks to be a winner, but my three plants have only been in the ground for two years. Also, I purchased two small seedlings of Dypsis oropedionis many years ago (7?). One died as a small plant, and the other never really grew in a container in my greenhouse. I finally planted it last year and it's exploding with growth, and it looks flawless. I finally planted 2/3 Dypsis saintelucei last year - they had always grown well in containers and are now doing well in the ground.

Here's a photo of one of my Dypsis decipiens - looking perfect even though it's been shaded out by the other palms around it.

Jack-

That decipeins looks great. Any picture you can post of that oropedionis? Sun? Shade? :)

Thanks Bill! I don't have a pic of the oropedionis handy, but I'll try to post one shortly. It's growing under high canopy (bright shade).

Jack Sayers

East Los Angeles

growing cold tolerant palms halfway between the equator and the arctic circle...

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For me D. baronii is the closest to bulletproof here. I've got quite a few scattered over the garden and I never have to pay them too much attention for them to look perfect. I'd say D. decipiens is second in line. Though I killed a small one years ago from planting it too deep, I now have one that grows steadily and is now about 3m or 10 feet tall. D. onilahensis is much slower than D. baronii but similarly hardy. D. 'canaliculata' which is probably prestoniana or another of the big curly family Dypsis is growing well, while D. carlsmithii is hanging in there. I've had a D. lutescens growing for years that always has visible cold damage but is now nearly 3m or 10 feet tall.

I've also got seedlings of D. 'bejofa', the true D. ambositrae, D. plumosa and D. tokoravina. All are very slow but all seem to cope with the winters well and I'd expect that with the extra heat of SoCal these should be good candidates. I've never tried D. decaryi, but there are quite a few nice specimens popping up around town. There is not quite enough heat here for them to be entirely happy year round however. I'm not surprised decaryi grows well in SoCal where that bit of extra warmth accelerates its growth. There once was an orange crush at a nursery that has since shut down that was growing steadily however I have no idea what has become of it.

It is worth noting I've tried many others without success. D. scottiana was a wimp, as was D. heterophylla. D. sp White (sold as tsaratanensis) survived for a few years without really growing. D. sp. dark mealy bug (sold as ovobontsira) was growing very well before being eaten by the same unknown pest that finished a similarly well growing D. prestoniana among others.

That's great info Tim. Some of these Dypsis are very adaptable to handle Melbourne. I find the opposite with baronii here. Too hot and they wimp out. D lutescens on the other hand grows like a weed. :D

Best regards

Tyrone

Millbrook, "Kinjarling" Noongar word meaning "Place of Rain", Rainbow Coast, Western Australia 35S. Warm temperate. Csb Koeppen Climate classification. Cool nights all year round.

 

 

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Thank you everyone for your input. I read all of your comments several times and it was extremely helpful. It's cool that this thread even ended up in Australia. It's amazing to be able to get this kind of information and I'm definitely very grateful. I ended up going with the following:

-d. Onilahensis upright

-Teddy bear

-d. Ambositrae true form

-d. Plumosa

- d. Decipiens (based on input I will not over water)

- d. Prestoniana

Joel

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  • 4 years later...

Wondering if everyone still stands by their list 5 years later? Any new info on your top 5? Any disappointments or newcomers to the list? I only have a few years experience, but so far in inland socal, near the foothills,   I can say decaryi, onilahensis, lutescens and heteromorpha have been the overall best. I have a decipiens that has done well in a large pot for three years but I don't want to judge until it has had time in the ground. The inland sun is too much for baronii to handle, though they seem to grow well with sun protection. Plumosa has done great but a few of my larger ones are showing much more damage for the first time than the aforementioned species are this winter. So my list would look like this:

lutescens

onilahensis

heteromorpha

plumosa

decaryi

 

I haven't lost a lancelota yet and there is one thriving at my parents house nearby, but they are not fans of the sun. My biggest one that I'm planning on planting in March is showing cold damage for the first time. I have yet to lose a pembana but they are all looking real ugly. Best looking one I have is having a rough winter. Plan on planting a few teddy-triagles which have done well in pots for the last two years.

I think some of you have enough data to give a fair evaluation on dypsis hybrids? Your input would be appreciated.

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