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Corcovado


Kim

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As luck would have it, Corcovado was my destination for the Biennial Post-Trip. I had no idea who else was signed up for the trip, and received my itinerary at the very last minute, but I knew I would have to take a flight and a boat ride to get there. I didn't know the flight would be in this plane:

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It was a 12-seater, so I settled in directly behind the pilot. The building you see in the background is the airport where we landed, resembling nothing so much as a 1950's filling station with the added attraction of a souvenir cart.

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Flying in, I had seen cultivated fields below, the crops appearing star-shaped from the height of the plane. Pineapple? Couldn't be, too large. As the plane descended and approached the fields of "stars", it became obvious these were extensive fields of palms, very large palms! They are African oil palms, a crop that replaced bananas here many years ago.

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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It turned out we had quite an international group on the Corcovado post-trip, including the Yao family from the Philippines, George, Aurora, and Garvin; Urs and Susanne Germann from Switzerland; Dan Ashley from Hawaii, USA, Stephen and Bunni Collins from Barbados; Grant Stephenson from Texas, USA; Jayanne Crawley from Louisiana, USA; and Kim (self) from California, USA. We also had the company of Dawn from the UK, who was doing research for the travel agency where she is employed -- nice work if you can get it!

We are met by our guide, and transported to the Hacienda, where it is suggested we change into shorts and sandals and have a beverage while they pack our luggage into plastic bags. We surmise we may get wet. This is reinforced when we must don life jackets.

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Somehow when I read we would be taking a boat, I imagined a 2 or 3 decked cruiser, similar to those used for bay cruises or whale watching in San Diego, with a snack bar and restrooms. But no, this is more like a water taxi:

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Finally loaded and underway, the boats head downriver at a very fast clip. The sound of the outboard motors and the wind in our faces didn't allow for much conversation. Suddenly the driver turned the boat 90 degrees toward the riverbank and cut the motor. At first I didn't understand why. Then I focused on the official "greeter":

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Just look at that big toothy smile. Costa Rica is rich in crocodiles; it is estimated there are 30 crocs for every mile of river, and the healthiest population is right here in Corcovado. So now we know...

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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So where are we going?

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Down the river delta, out into the Pacific Ocean, and down the coast. The total time on the boat was about an hour and a half, through extensive mangrove forests, past several islands, including Violin Island (photo), out through the surf, past many inviting coastal scenes.

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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post-216-1212035631_thumb.jpgpost-216-1212035654_thumb.jpg

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Will add more tomorrow...

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Aloha Kim, and Mahalo for sharing photos of our wonderful post-Biennial trip to Corcovado - I'll never forget the unique night-time sounds of those tree frogs - it sounded like a million tiny bells chiming and pinging throughout the jungle.

Dan on the Big Island of Hawai'i / Dani en la Isla Grande de Hawai

Events Photographer roving paparazzi "konadanni"

Master Gardener, University of Hawai’i College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources

Certified Arborist, International Society of Arboriculture

LinkedIn & email: konadanni@gmail.com / Facebook & Twitter & Google Plus: DanTom BigIsland

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Hey Dan, nice to see you posting here. :) I'm with you on the sounds of the frogs; their chimes were unforgettable, the signature for Corcovado. But just in case we do forget, we have our wind chimes to remind us.

Gene, my friend, I'm looking forward to you looking forward to the photos. I kind of went "light" on the photos, this trip, though. Not my usual thousands of special moments. But you'll get an idea of Corcovado, I hope...

So, where did I leave off? Oh, yes...

Our boat had come through the surf at the rivermouth handily, the captain finding a channel near some vicious-looking rocks. The other pilot was racing back and forth, trapped inside without success, until finally, we saw him racing a breaking wave toward the rocks and he followed us out. A lot of drama for the people in that boat, I'd guess. From the river mouth, the fiberglass hulls of the boats smacked against the chop as we beat against the wind to the south.

At one point heavy yellow rain ponchos were passed through the boat: "It's going to rain," the word came with the ponchos. Looking ahead we could see a dark grey cloud hanging over the coastline. We pulled them over our heads, and just then, sure enough, the rain came beating down. It didn't last long, and we pulled off the ponchos just before our arrival.

It was a wet landing:

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Just up from the rocks and sand we were met with a shower and fresh rolled towels for rinsing and drying our feet, and a tractor to take us up the hill to the lodge.

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Having arrived very late, we met in the restaurant for a mid-afternoon lunch and orientation. With everything run as energy-efficient as possible, we were advised to forgo hairdryers, because plugging one in would overwhelm the system, and the lodge would be without electricity for 24 hours. Even the pool is heated by a passive radiant heating system, warming the water to the ambient air temperature. There are no roads to the lodge, all supplies arrive by the same boats we came in on. This does not mean we are camping out in the sticks, no way.

A few shots of the grounds:

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Closeup of the magnificent Corypha umbraculifera:

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Views of my private bungalito:

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The hammock I never used:

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A very welcoming interior:

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Did I mention the outdoor shower? I didn't even realize it was there until the next day, when I took full advantage:

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The gardens were lovely:

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Oh, and there were two pools for soaking after long, hot, sweaty, exhausting hikes on the senderos. This is the warm pool:

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Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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I had intended to wander down to the beach, taking photos, and maybe catch the sunset. It began to rain. So I went up the hill to a sheltered bench under a gazebo to wait out the brief sprinkle. Ha! It only grew more intense the longer I waited. Finally the lightning flashes were getting a little too close. I caught a pre-sunset shot of this Corypha utan with Cano Island on the horizon in the pouring rain:

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Then I made a run for it, arriving at the sunset bar completely drenched. What to do? Order a margarita, of course, and enjoy the lightning bolts with the Germans who were also waiting out the storm. Finally the bartender went up to get the tractor to take us all up to the lodge, where I could change into dry clothes.

Tune in again for the next installment...

Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Hi Kim,

Great narrative of our trip! And just at the right time for me to pitch in with some of my pixes, that is, if you don't mind.

I came home a week ago to find my computer power supply had conked out. After putting in a new one, I found out I had no more disk space for downloading my photos. I had to find a way to augment my storage. And guess what I got, a one terabyte Western Digital external drive! That should solve my storage problem for a long, long time. :lol:

George

George Yao

Metro-Manila

Philippines

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Kim,

What an adventure, and what an incredible place! Looking forward to the next installment! :)

Bo-Göran

Leilani Estates, 25 mls/40 km south of Hilo, Big Island of Hawai'i. Elevation 880 ft/270 m. Average rainfall 140 inches/3550 mm

 

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Hi George! Please do add your own photos! And anyone else as well. I really didn't capture the whole scene, and I know others took a lot of photos, so please help fill out the story.

Thanks for the feedback, Bo. :)

Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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That corypha is AWESOME!!! I gotta get one of those-- that's the palm lust talking then you realize that you have no place to put it :o

What is the main attraction of Corocvado by the way? Is there a unique natural feature in the area that makes it a choice destination ?

Edited by Gbarce

Gene

Manila, Philippines

53 feet above sea level - inland

Hot and dry in summer, humid and sticky monsoon season, perfect weather Christmas time

http://freakofnaturezzz.blogspot.com/

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GCYAO - I just realized that you are the OTHER forum member from the Philippines who posts!! I don't think that we have fomally met but I think I have bumped into you once or twice in some of the plant shows. I think I've even bought some of your palms.

Just want to say "HI!" on this forum.

Sorry KIM that was a bit off topic.

Gene

Manila, Philippines

53 feet above sea level - inland

Hot and dry in summer, humid and sticky monsoon season, perfect weather Christmas time

http://freakofnaturezzz.blogspot.com/

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Aloha to Gene in Manila – you asked “What is the main attraction of Corcovado by the way? Is there a unique natural feature in the area that makes it a choice destination?”

I signed up for the IPS Post-Biennial tour to Corcovado because I had never seen Costa Rica and wanted to see as many different areas as possible while I was there. I have previously lived in Pacific coastal areas of northern and southern California, and I’ve visited some Pacific coastal areas farther south in Mexico including Cabo, Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo. I enjoy the warmer ocean water and seeing the beautiful mountains next to the Pacific coast beaches, so Corcovado sounded like a place I’d enjoy and also be exposed to more of an eco-tour adventure which is a type of vacation I had not yet experienced.

I did not realize that so many other Biennial attendees like our pal Kim would be joining me for the Corcovado tour, so that was an unexpected and welcome surprise. They say half the fun is in getting there, and that was certainly my experience for the Corcovado post-Biennial tour and the Tortuguero pre-Biennial tour. The ride on the small Sansa plane, the last minute aborted landing attempt when our pilot realized there was another plane on the tiny runway in the middle of the large oil palm plantation, the little boats Coati and Tapir that took us downriver and out into the Pacific, the tractor-pulled “Corcovado Jungle Lodge “limo” to bring us from the wet-landing beach area up the very steep hills, etc. For the entire stay I was in a small group that had a wonderful and knowledgeable Corcovado tour guide named Alberto. His attention to the needs and questions from our group was exceptional, and he did a good job making sure there were no crocodiles nearby when I went for a swim in a nice river swimming area beneath a lovely waterfall. Alberto told us that he grew up on the remote Violin Island which we passed on our way to Corcovado Jungle Lodge. One of the business practices of Corcovado Jungle Lodge (besides promoting taking care of the environment) is to employ and train local area residents to serve as their lodge workers and jungle guides. Alberto did a fairly good job of speaking English and I got to practice my rudimentary Espanol on our tours with him. Alberto told me he got a book and has been teaching himself how to speak English, which is a good example of the way that many Costa Ricans (Ticos) work very hard to better themselves.

The very remote location of Corcovado and the unique experience of seeing the flora and fauna with experienced local tour guides are reasons that I’d recommend this tour to others. I would say that being in reasonably good physical condition is a prerequisite for taking full advantage of what this area has to offer. The Corcovado Jungle Lodge itself is an amazing jewel surrounded by a Jurassic Park-like jungle. The Corcovado area’s beach sand was a mocha brown-color, which created a nice color contrast with the dark teal blue-color ocean water at the shore.

I have not finished looking at all the IPS Biennial photo posts, so I do not know if anyone has posted photos of the Tortuguero - Mawamba Lodge tour. That was another great tour which I did as a pre-Biennial tour with my new palm pals elHoagie and laHoagie from Los Angeles. Hopefully someone else who went on the Tortuguero tour before or after the Biennial conference has or will be posting some photos and commentary of that Caribbean-side Costa Rica adventure.

Dan on the Big Island of Hawai'i / Dani en la Isla Grande de Hawai

Events Photographer roving paparazzi "konadanni"

Master Gardener, University of Hawai’i College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources

Certified Arborist, International Society of Arboriculture

LinkedIn & email: konadanni@gmail.com / Facebook & Twitter & Google Plus: DanTom BigIsland

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Kim,

Looking forward to more pictures. I've never been to the Drake Bay side of the Osa Peninsula, but last August I was down at the other end at Cabo Matapalo. It's my favorite place in all of Costa Rica. I've never seen so much wildlife in such a small area ever. Pristine rainforest and surprisingly no mosquitos at all.

Cincinnati, Ohio USA & Mindo, Ecuador

 

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That corypha is AWESOME!!! I gotta get one of those-- that's the palm lust talking then you realize that you have no place to put it :o

What is the main attraction of Corocvado by the way? Is there a unique natural feature in the area that makes it a choice destination ?

Gene,

You have 1 hectare right? Of course you have a place to put it. I went to an open garden last week on 1000sqm block and she has 2 coryphas. So there... go out there and get one. I have 3 already!!

Kim,

Beautiful place... It seems like it is not the 'popular' tourist destination too, which makes it even better in my book.

Regards, Ari :)

Ari & Scott

Darwin, NT, Australia

-12°32'53" 131°10'20"

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Ari - I'd probably have to clear some "accidental" trees to make room for that palm. You just shouldn't crowd that magnificant palm to give it the proper setting. You have to appreciate it in all its glory. :D:D

Konadantom- Thanks for the explanation. From the picture I can take that the area has a natural charm and unique feel.

Gene

Gene

Manila, Philippines

53 feet above sea level - inland

Hot and dry in summer, humid and sticky monsoon season, perfect weather Christmas time

http://freakofnaturezzz.blogspot.com/

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Kim,

It takes a while to prepare photos for uploading! My compliment to all those who took, are taking, and will take the time and effort to show off their photos in this forum. :D

Here is my photo, taken from the plane, of the airport where we landed.

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George Yao

Metro-Manila

Philippines

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This is the entrance to La Hacienda, where we made preparations for the boat ride to Corcovado.

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George Yao

Metro-Manila

Philippines

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And these are our water taxis that Kim mentioned, Coati and Tapir.

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George Yao

Metro-Manila

Philippines

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And here is a close-up of the toothy croc that Kim mentioned.

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George Yao

Metro-Manila

Philippines

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We stopped here and Alberto pointed towards the direction of the Araucaria, telling us that he lived there with his parents.

post-805-1212254971_thumb.jpg

George Yao

Metro-Manila

Philippines

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After we ran the waves successfully, we stopped here to wait for the other boat.

You can see Kim looking at the 5 foot waves rolling in from the Pacific.

There must be an explanation why the waves at the mouth of the river were rougher.

post-805-1212255188_thumb.jpg

George Yao

Metro-Manila

Philippines

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Hi Gene,

I think we met once maybe 2 years ago at El's nursery. You were in a hurry so we didn't talk. I remember you because El mentioned your enthusiasm for palms, and subsequently mentioned you again once in a while in connection with palms. I don't recall meeting you again after that. Hopefully, we will meet again one of these days.

George

George Yao

Metro-Manila

Philippines

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Aloha George and Mahalo for sharing those photo memories, including our first glimpse of the main passenger terminal at the “Palmar Sur International air strip”

Dan on Big Island

Dan on the Big Island of Hawai'i / Dani en la Isla Grande de Hawai

Events Photographer roving paparazzi "konadanni"

Master Gardener, University of Hawai’i College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources

Certified Arborist, International Society of Arboriculture

LinkedIn & email: konadanni@gmail.com / Facebook & Twitter & Google Plus: DanTom BigIsland

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Breakfast was scheduled very early in the morning, and the howler monkeys seemed to go off at the same time as my alarm. They sounded like barking dogs in the forest. Before venturing out, I looked outside and saw this agouti munching fallen palm fruits (sorry if you've seen this on another thread):

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Later I mentioned to our guide Alberto that I had seen an agouti outside my bungalow. He nodded, but barely took notice. They must be a common sight.

Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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After breakfast we were instructed to go to another building to pick out our Wellies. Because of the heavy rain the night before, the jungle would be particularly muddy. I had brought my own hiking boots, but decided I'd rather get mud on someone else's boots. In retrospect, I can say I'd have been far more comfortable in my own boots. Wellington rubber boots might be fine for poking around a lavendar patch, but they don't offer much foot support for hiking. I wish I had a picture of us all outfitted in our rubber boots, it was funny.

Outside the boot building, we were discussing the hike when we heard a very loud CRACK!! CRRR---AAAASH!! Our guide just kept on talking, taking no notice. So I interrupted to ask the obvious, "What was THAT?" Oh, that's a tree falling in the forest. He said the trees grow very heavy with all the rain soaking their branches, and it's not unusual for the trees to fall sometimes. Mind you, this place is covered with huge trees...very comforting. :huh:

During the biennial week, everyone saw monkeys, except my small bus sub-group. And people seemed to like to rub it in, as in (very animated voice), "Oh yes, we saw monkeys! Lots of monkeys! We saw three kinds of monkeys! Lots of monkeys!" Well, I never saw any monkeys. Jeff in Costa Rica was joking that a friend had started a web site called therearenomonkeysincostarica.com, and I was ready to sign up. So when people said "oh, yes, there are lots of monkeys in Corcovado," I was like, "yeah, sure, right..."

So I was very happy, when, minutes into our hike in the jungles of Corcovado, Alberto stopped on the trail, held up his hand for quiet to listen, and pronounced monkeys were close by. Shortly, we could hear the telltale snapping of branches and see the swaying of leaves, and then the critters themselves:

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This is when I learned how difficult it is to photograph animals moving quickly through the canopy. Everything is backlit, there are branches and leaves between you and the desired subject, and the darn things just won't sit still. So kudos to everyone who got a really clean monkey shot, my hat is off to your skills. But in this thread you'll have to settle for monkey-like silhouettes. This is like Loch Ness Monster photography... but I swear, I really did see the monkeys!!

Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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This was my best monkey shot; he's smiling for the camera. On my computer I can brighten it and zoom in, but for here it is what it is:

post-216-1212380081_thumb.jpg

Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Monkeys leaping from tree to tree, with my fantastic Loch Ness monster-style photography:

post-216-1212380339_thumb.jpg

Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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The jungle in Corcovado is extremely humid; everything seems drenched all the time, and it is very warm. The competition among plants is for sunlight. Grant Stephenson and George Yao (I think) on the trail:

post-216-1212380712_thumb.jpg

Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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This tiny lizard was fascinated by our guide's laser pointer:

post-216-1212380811_thumb.jpg

I was surprised to see small crabs scrambling sideways along fallen logs in the forest. They live in the trees as well as on the beaches here -- sorry, I didn't get a clear photo, but perhaps someone else did.

Kim Cyr

Between the beach and the bays, Point Loma, San Diego, California USA
and on a 300 year-old lava flow, Pahoa, Hawaii, 1/4 mile from the 2018 flow
All characters  in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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